Why Chevrolet Spin Phase Out - Damino Media

Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive

WeberAuto:

Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching

2017 Chevrolet Bolt EV: Regular Car Reviews

RegularCars:

Nice Sonic!
♫Bolt, bolt, bolt, bo-bo-bo-bolt, bolt bo-bo-bo-bo-bolt♫
2017 Chevrolet Bolt EV
Crap seats.
Garbage dash.
Masturbatory gear selector.
Hard seats.
I POOP
Cheap plastic-
UHH UNSTOPPABLE
Crashy suspension
I POOP
MY ASS
IT CONTINUES
HNNNNNNNNNNGH
ONE TWO THREE FOUR FIVE SIX SEVEN EIGHT NINE
TEN TEN TEN TEN TEN
I POOP I POOP I POOP
AND THEN I brown.
So this Bolt makes the equivalent of
200 horsepower and 266 pound-feet of torque
on a 150 kilowatt electric motor.
Now that's about the equivalent of a
Fiesta ST with a tune on it, and a
Chevrolet Bolt is about the size of a Ford Fiesta
It's got a 60 kilowatt-hour battery,
which is the same as a high-end Tesla,
which gives it an effective or claimed range of 238 miles
BULLSHIT
I'll be surprised if you crack 200 if you drive this thing normally.
The Bolt also offers
regeneteraviivivee
braking, which means city driving is more efficient for battery life than highway driving since you're braking more often.
On your standard 110-120 volt house current,
the battery takes two days to recharge,
although if you have 240 power and the appropriate adapter, it will charge in nine hours.
So Andy, paid the extra
$750 for the DC fast charging capability, which probably sounds expensive,
but considering Andy got this car as part of a buyback deal with his old Volkswagen Golf TDI...
turns out to be a pretty good deal.
Hey. It was either this or a Nissan Leaf,
and based on our experience I can't really blame Andy for making the choice he did.
Okay, the Chevy Bolt is a
$40,000 car. Ugh...
And this interior...
Shittiest interior I've ever been in!
I'm talking Chevrolet Cavalier
BAD
The seats feel like cafeteria chairs with all the bolstering of a church pew,
and the dash plastic is harder and grayer than an IBM keyboard.
And the gear shifter! All right look-
This is an automatic shifter that makes sense. Look.
Park.
Drive.
Overdrive.
Drive.
Low.
You could have any type of mnnnhhgh
Hngh.
Look. And this thing, they were able to make normal stuff.
This has a physical connection to the transmission.
If you have an electric car you don't have to have a physical tra-
Look at all the stuff coming out this.
you don't have to have a physical connection to the transmission,
so you could have it be anything you want.
So if it could be anything you want, why not have it be simple that people can understand?
But instead you had to make something more complicated than a
complicated original shifter.
Do you hear me?!
But no.. you had to make it complicated
Hold down the missile button and move it up and to the left to reverse.
But not right and down to drive, just back! But Park is a different button
and it doesn't work like the side missile button... You made it complicated GM
because complicated means fancy.
The handling pushes nothing but understeer, which is fine.
It's an economy car. And the acceleration is good. It's good. Not Tesla good. I mean zero to 60 in 6.5
seconds on a full charge and zero to 60 in 6.7 seconds on a 60 percent charge.
That's good!
And it could probably reach top speeds well over 100 miles an hour
if the engine wasn't electronically governed
so they can't go faster than 93.
Governor kicks in at 93 miles an hour. I mean I can sorta
see why you might not want to indulge the sort of guy who would really want to push an economy car up to
speeds past 100 miles an hour.
It probably has something to do with the electric motors.
I'll bet they could spin faster.
But giving that there's no gearing. You know it's one to one,
the car will only run as fast as these engines will turn
Er, I'm sorry, the motors will turn.
But 93 miles an hour seems like such an arbitrary number.
Why not 90 or,
or 95
But what's crazy is that even in its upper register,
the motor is still quieter than the kid blowing on a pinwheel.
Sort of like a Michael Bolton b-side,
but under 15 miles an hour, this little speaker turns on in the front bumper that goes like this
*heeeeeeeeeee*
It's -- it's it's a white noise machine in the front bumper.
It makes a noise similar to air conditioning fans. The idea is this is supposed to alert people
to not crash into you.
But when Roman was driving it,
he almost hit a squirrel so that didn't hear.
Although I did hear this car coming on one of the drive-by -- you know -- shots that we do.
So, it works
But car guys want the ability to turn stuff off. They're like PC users.
"No, I don't like that weird noise, just turn it off."
"I'll deal with the repercussions."
And it doesn't help that the tone that that white noise generator makes isn't particularly distinctive either.
It sounds a bit like an old dial-up modem from the "jerking off to music videos on RealPlayer" era.
"Get off the phone mom, I'm trying to get on Prodigy!"
But when the white noise machine is turned off, this car is quieter than a church after somebody objects to a wedding.
At 3,580 pounds this car is heavy, but quiet, like a BBW with low self-esteem.
It's heavy, but quiet, like a powerlifter on a blind date.
It's heavy, but quiet, like The Passion of Joan of Arc
It's heavy, but quiet, like the constant dependable love of your
LEFT HAND.
It still has a standard 12 volt lead acid battery to run accessories and get the car going before it "gets going",
but ugh, the interior!
Ugh!
At first glance it looks nice, but on closer inspection,
you can see it's all cheap, plastic components,
like they spent so much money on the engine, that they didn't have the budget for anything more than
Walmart seat backings.
I mean you pull up the carpet, and there's a lot of seam sealer too. I mean that's good,
but it's just kind of *phbbt* on everywhere.
Adding to the cheap feel of this car. And yes,
it's a low blow coming from a guy who drove a car called "Silicone Sally",
but my point stands.
Okay one thing that does really, really well, is a little paddle. On the left hand side of the steering wheel.
What that does is it kicks on your regenerative braking,
anytime you want it.
It has nothing to do with your brake pedal.
You can if you want,
come to a stop every single time without ever touching the brake.
If you time it right, and pull that little lever in.
And it doesn't matter what mode the car is in: regular drive, sport, sport low -- anyway
It will bring the car to a dead stop without using the brakes, and that's fun.
I could dig that. And I know I don't think I'd ever get a 200 mile range out of this car
Because it is fun to accelerate.
Again, not Tesla fast, but fast. Fun.
And you can make the front tires squeal.
*The second we can get around this -- hello, Toyota*
*That's how I used the regular brakes there*
*tire squeal*
*Whoa?*
*Sorry, I hit th-- i hit the accelerator mid corner, and it just -- and it just broke the tires loose*
And it does surprise you. Even as electric cars gain in widespread acceptance,
some people are just never going to warm to electrics.
I think one of the reasons is that for some people
accepting electric cars is passively approving the plan to phase out internal combustion engines.
More than a Tesla or a BMW i3 or any other electric car on the market,
the Bolt reads like a thesis statement on the decline of the internal combustion engine.
Because when your regular cars start getting electrified,
when you start getting electrics that are this accessible, this affordable, this thoughtlessly fun,
that's when you really start to wonder --
do all those clickbait thinkpieces about the death of the internal combustion engine have a point?
It's been predicted by financial analysts that the total cost of ownership for an electric car,
will be on par with the cost of a
gasoline-powered car, before 2020,
while electric vehicles could account for as much as 14 percent of worldwide car sales by 2025.
That's kind of insane when you consider that
globally, electric cars really only account for about 1% of all sales in 2017.
But it makes sense that affordability would be a motivating reason for people to hop on the electric car bandwagon.
Not only are the cars themselves getting cheaper --
AND THEIR INTERIORS --
But their components --
INTERIORS --
as well.
With batteries gradually falling in cost in addition to the price per kilowatt hour
plummeting from over $1,000 in 2010,
to just under $200 today.
That's without even getting to countries
who've pledged to go electric. Of course, a pledge doesn't mean anything.
It's like an initiative, which George Carlin said "an initiative is an idea that isn't going anywhere"
so I don't put any stock in Britain saying they're gonna guarantee all new cars to be zero emission by 2050.
I don't think that's happening. In fact
I don't... I think we'll be still making internal combustion engines 100 years from now.
Because it's not really the viability of the car that's in question,
it's the viability of the infrastructure.
And that's one serious problem with the Chevy Bolt.
It can't use Tesla's fast charging stations. It has to use...
There is no, there is no
infrastructure to support this car. You get a Chevy Bolt, you're taking a compass to your map, and
drawing a hundred mile radius around your house. That's all the farther you're gonna go
if you don't want to have to deal with range anxiety.
A Tesla can go coast-to-coast.
There is enough Tesla fast charging stations for those cars to work.
But we're in an early era now with electric cars in the same way we were with computers in 1991.
Nowadays everything that plugs into a computer is a USB, Universal Serial Bus.
But back in the early 90s you had all sorts of different ports
and you got a digital camera? There was no guarantee there would be the right port on the computer. Is it a PS/2? Is it a serial?
Does it plug into that game port that's on your sound card? Your Sound Blaster card?
We don't know. All different electric cars right now have different kind of a charge -- have different kind of charging ports.
We need a universal charging port for cars,
and that's one thing that Tesla's doing.
The long term goal of Tesla is to be more of a power supplier than it is an
automotive company. Plus in rural places like Pennsylvania --
There were no charging points down near Philadelphia and in Kutztown, Pennsylvania where we filmed this.
But back to the Bolt itself.
If you convince yourself you're driving a Chevy Sonic, then it's fine.
If you ignore the cost you spent, and if you get all the deals you can, if you can find a way to knock down
with the government incentives and maybe a work incentive and other tax breaks --
if you can get the cost of this from
$40,000 to under 30 in your mind, you won't be upset with the interior.
But if you pay sticker for this,
you're gonna hate this interior.
Just a pair of, Recaros or Sparcos would make this interior so much better.
I mean, screw the guys in the back, keep the crappy seats in the back. You kind of expect that.
But if you spent $2,000 on better seats, I think people will be willing to pay
$42,000 ,over $40,000, if the front seats were better.
Ughey. There's another problem with electric vehicles as well.
Garages. What are you gonna do, have this thing on the street?
What are you gonna do? Drag an extension cord out your window, have it go across the sidewalk and into your car?
Yeah, I guess?
But what about knuckleheads in your neighborhood?
Yeah, plugging your car overnight and have this thing dangling out your window. Then along come two lowbrow
knuckle-draggers with a very low class rank, and they see your electric car and your extension cable. And of course they're out late at night
because their parents are pieces of shit too - and they just yank the charging cable out of your car.
*knuckledragger voice*
Ha ha, faggot!
Now you go out to your car, and there's no charge in the morning. So that's the big cost of electric cars.
It's limited to homeowners. Homeowners with garages.
So yeah, I get the pushback against electric cars not only from a jobs perspective, but an enjoyability standpoint as well.
It's just not the same, but not the same doesn't automatically mean bad.
There is a place for electric cars. Perhaps in the future there will only be a place for electric cars.
But the growing popularity of electric vehicles means
manufacturers will have to get more creative with the design, with the engineering, with the functions these vehicles perform,
and the methods by which these cars perform them.
But for as exciting as that has the potential to be,
automotive enthusiasts are going to want more from these electrics.
Especially if they're old enough to remember how things used to be. I don't know what the future holds,
but hopefully the compromise is in there somewhere.
♫Chevy Bolt EV's an electric car.♫
♫Don't fret on the range, it'll get you far♫
♫And the cost is low,♫
♫comparing to a Tesla, but it costs more than a Nissan Leaf♫

Installing RPI's C7 Corvette Grille Blackout Vinyl Overlay Kit

RPI Designs:

alright guys Phil here RPI design today
everyone tell you about our c7 vinyl
grill blackouts we're you guys know that
on the Stingray you've got the big
chrome strip across the front of the car
light guys can like it we came up with a
little wild drill overlay two quick easy
install there's a little soap and water an
old razor blade the only tools you need
will show you how it's done here right
now
all right guys when you get the kit
you'll see has three stripes only need 2 for your
car installed third one here it's just
in case you have a problem of one of
them so we'll go and I'll show you how
to do this right now
the little soap and water I said it'll
make this job a lot easier book here you
have a spray ball you can use that it's
not sponge paper towel whatever silver
water will help things help the vinyl
just slide across here so it's a lot
easier to work with
all right
pull off the first strip
so right here on the end
I didn't up here with the bottom of the
grill
the strip will be longer than what you
need you don't the place it perfectly
get it closed all you need to do the
grades are bleeding trim during the rest
okay guys you got this laid out here on
the car right now
so I says little soap and water few
minutes here make sure you don't have
any chrome shown anywhere once you happy
with the placement of it take paper
towel let's go over it here or go
towards the end work out any water to
have laying in back there behind it and
that will seal it right down to your to
your car
all right guys after you got all laid
out got the wire squeegeed out of it
take razor blade exacto knife right here
to the factory split into chrome trim
blade mer quick easy cut just like that
peel it off
it's a little bit louder and err that's
normal deck one back here is a little
bit trickier that's good a couple angles
here again it's not big deal nice sharp
blade
I need to I need to work that back down
in there a little bit there's risk we
might look it up a little bit and
also didn't cut always here is first
time there just cut back a little bit
here so I could see why I'm doing all
the better I got a little bit idea where
I'm placing my cuts
I feel the edge program
work it down in there a little big in
the look almost goodnight there for you
there you have
in play a little bit of water in there
and the edge there needed work coughing
in there I'll wipe that down paper towel
and you're down with that side leave
while reloading long side here you can
see the difference already than where
your car looks
alright guys we've got the first side
done on the second side again steps are
the same full silver water helps move it
around be careful here when you lay out
the second side here you don't want to
have problem here it might want to pick
up this and you start peeling off there
again just be a little bit careful put a
little soap and water on the outside
over here student causing any problems
okay guys we've got the second half laid
out here see your silky little bubbles
here's the little wrinkles that's normal
for vinyl again just take your paper
towel just work them out towards the
edges nine times out of ten the workout
quick and easy no problems if you've got
any problems you've got any bubbles you
don't want to come out and it's like a
day or two later and you're still there
you can take a spin pop them there lay
it off flat it look good as new
you can find this and many more parts on
our c7 Corvette on our website RPI
designs to see you next time

Driveshaft Vibrations - The NVH App

WeberAuto:

Hello, my name is John Kelly and this is
the WeberAuto YouTube channel. Today I am
going to demonstrate how to use the new
NVH app to diagnose a driveshaft speed
related vibration. I have a vehicle set
up with a vibration
installed on it, and we are ready to go
drive, do a road test, so let us set the
app up for the vehicle that we are
going to use here, so if we start the app,
agree, the vehicle that I'm driving is an
older vehicle that is not in our
database of vehicles, but you can
actually use this app on any vehicle
as long as you enter the vehicle
information that's required, so in this
case we will go with "Unlisted Vehicle" in
the upper right hand corner,
this is a four-wheel drive truck, so I will
click on four-wheel drive, we have to
enter the number of cylinders in the
engine, this is a six-cylinder engine, we
have to enter the rear axle gear ratio,
to find the rear axle gear ratio and we
have a link, that reads "Find my Axle
Gear Ratio" right there on the screen,
scroll down, this is a GMC, so we will select GMC. General Motors vehicles have a code
label somewhere in usually the glove
box or the trunk area, and you will find
a code that begins with the letter F or
the letter G, four trucks it is the
letter G, and this truck has a GU6
axle code, so scroll down to where you
find GU6
and look in the next column, it gives us
the axle gear ratio of 3.42, so we
will hit done, we will come to the axle gear
ratio box and punch in 3.42
it asks us for the transfer
case gear ratio on this
four-wheel-drive truck, if you're driving
around in two wheel drive, or four-wheel
drive high, what you normally wouldn't do
on dry roads, the transfer case gear
ratio is just simply 1.0, alright so the
next thing that we need is the
transmission gear ratios, so we will click on
transmission gear ratios, this is a
four-speed transmission, but notice we
can hit the plus or minus buttons to
select the number of speeds in the
transmission, and that this is a four
speeds, so I selected 4, we can just go
with default gear ratios if you don't
know your gear ratios are. but I do know
what transmission this this has. and the
way I find that out is to look at
"Find my Transmission Gear Ratios", the
link right there on the screen, and
scroll down to GMC, and on the code label
that I have on this truck, I have a M30
and so M30 here is a 4L60-E transmission,
and if I scroll over there is the
gear ratios; 3.059, 1.625, 1.0, 0.696, so I will come back here and punch in
3.059, 1.625, 1.0, and 0.696.
the app needs to know the transmission
gear ratios to calculate the rotational
speeds of some of the parts on your
truck, so the last thing you have to
enter for whatever vehicle you want to
test is the tire size, this truck has 235
75, 15, tires on it, so now we hit start, it
brings us to the "Vehicle View" where we
have a powertrain view of a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, and now we are
going to hit "Start Recording" and go
drive it and see if we can pick up this
vibration, so let us go ahead and and see
if we can find. I am going to sit the
iPhone on the dash, cover it up with the
piece of paper, so the Sun does not
overheat it,
let us go see what we can find.
there it is showning up
driveshaft
first order
it looks liee we have got a third-order tire along
with it
so here we are at 73, 74, miles an hour
we have got glowing driveshaft, glowing
tires, it looks like we have multiple
vibrations on this vehicle
looks like it is worse at the higher
vehicle speeds
driveshaft speed is around 50,
50 revolutions per second
I am going tell the app to stop recording,
we can get off and go back
I will give it a name 2001
GMC, Sonoma, with a D1 driveshaft
vibration and hit save, the app will analyze
the data it has recorded and tell us
thinks it has found as the source of the
vibration. Remember the app will give us
the highest average amplitude frequency
over the time that we drove, so it is
telling us to have a third-order tire
speed related vibration as the primary
cause of the shaking as we drive, and of
course you can click on "How do we fix
this vibration" brings up a help file
that tells you how to repair that, but lets
go back and look at the totals, notice we
have third order tire was detected
225 times during our
road test, and a first-order drive shaft
was detected 156
times, and let's see what speeds they
were worse at. On the third-order tire, it
looks like 70-74 miles an hour it was
detected 158
times all the other vehicle speeds were
pretty minor, let us look at the
first-order driveshaft, it was detected
109 times between 70 and 74 miles an
hour, and the rest of the time
looks like 50 to 54 miles an hour it was
detected 14 times, so a lower speed at
lower speeds it came in and again at
higher speeds.
Engine vibrations, there were few they
were picked up, second order engine was
the most, second order engine vibration
on a V-6 engine is is one of those
normal vibrations that we should not be
feeling in the passenger compartment, so
this old ruck actually has three
different vibrations, but the one with
the highest average amplitude of 0.148
was the third order tire, followed by first-order drive shaft at 0.169
now that is a higher amplitude, but it was only detected
156 times versus the
225 times for
the third-order tire, so it's not just
amplitude, it's a weighted amplitude
level based on how many times it was
detected.
let us look at our graph
there is a lot of blue there, that blue is
the drive shaft speed related vibration
this graph shows amplitude versus time
and the color represents the frequency
of the part on that on the vehicle
Okay, well, that is how to manually enter
into vehicle's information, once again
this app will work on any vehicle as long
as you can come up with the gear ratios
and tire size, and number of in
engine cylinders, and so on
it will work. Alright now the app
gave us help for the third-order tire
speed vibration, but if we go all the way
back to the first menu here, and look
under the diagnostic help icon, and then
diagnostic procedures, it has a separate
menu item, as you can see here, for tire
speed related vibrations, and it breaks
it down by the orders, drive shaft speed
related vibrations and the their
particular orders, engine speed
vibrations and their orders, and each
type of vibration has its own specific
diagnostic procedures that all of those
procedures are in these help file links.
while we are driving here, if we click on
if you go back to the main menu and
click on Tools, there is several tools
here are available and we'll take a look
at these in in different videos, but one
of them is just simply a vehicle speed
signal that would be based off of the
GPS speed signal as we drive, so it says
we are doing 33 miles an hour, and that matches
our speedometer
The GPS vehicle speed is actually more
accurate than your speedometer because your
speedometer is based on the tire size
that you have on your vehicle, and as
your tires wear out your speedometer
becomes less and less accurate, we have a
Live Data tool wherer we can just look at
the frequencies and the amplitudes that
are being measured as we drive down the
road, so it will show you the top five
frequencies as far as amplitude levels
with a tool, we have a strobe light tool
that will actually flash your camera's
flash a certain number of times per
second and will use that tool in another
video for engine, for abnormal engine
vibrations, and then we have another tool
for measuring driveshaft u-joint working
angles, and help for correcting those.
This has been a demonstration of using
the NVH app to detect driveline or drive
shaft speed related vibrations, It turns
out we picked up a few other unexpected
vibrations on this old truck at the same
time, thanks for watching.

Why it's Dumb to use Cartridge Oil Filters in Your Car

Scotty Kilmer:

one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
today I'm going to talk about why I hate
these modern canister oil filters, where you got
to take them all apart and replace just the
paper part inside, now my first beef is
cost, now why does this filter cost more
than this filter, it's just paper, this
has all kinds of stuff inside it, they're
just ripping you off on the price, now
this is on a Toyota Highlander, and
granted I call up the Toyota dealer, at
least they're fair, they charge five
dollars for the paper one and seven
dollars for the metal one, at least
they're not ripping you off, but about
this one on a local auto parts store and
they charged tons more, usually the dealers
have the highest prices, so they're just
ripping you off with these stupid things,
I guess they figure, your not going to drive
the whole way to a dealership to save a
few bucks, but really, it's a ripoff that
they charge so much for these stupid
paper ones at auto parts stores, and
secondly, look at the difference,
these are spaced further apart, these are
closer together, so you actually get
worse filtration with these stupid paper
ones, and then of course, comes a problem of
getting these stupid things off,
because as you can see here, they're an
oddball shape, and you have to buy a
special wrench just to get the stupid
things off, and take my advice, when
you buy one, buy a metal one like this, I
tried the plastic ones, but they just
snapped off because they were so cheap
too, then when you put the tool on, you
have to take it off, which comes off with
a tool, don't ever try to do it with a
wrench or something because it'll just strip
it all apart, and of course it makes a gigantic mess, because you
got to take all this stuff apart, and oil
gets all over the place, now when I was a kid
in the sixties starting to work on cars,
they had old cars like this, I thought we
were going forward with technology, not
backwards, and then you have to put a new
rubber seal on it, lubricate that, and
screw it back on, now with modern
engines being so complex with variable
valve timing and other editions to them,
why on earth are they going to a cheaper
filter that doesn't filter as well instead of
using a tried and trued metal
canister one that we've used for decades,
I mean really, they have less filtration
area, they're a bigger pain to change, why
on earth are they putting these things
in modern cars,
well the only thing I can think that
they're thinking is, it's cheaper to
make them, because everything's plastic,
and since they don't filter as well, the
engines will wear out faster, then they'll
sell you another one, so there's planned
obsolescence involved too, but if you have one of these stupid oil
canisters on your car, take my advice,
when you buy a filter, buy one that's got
synthetic materials, so at least it's
going to filter as well as it can, and
last longer because the synthetic
materials don't break down as fast as
the paper does, I'm just happy that all
my cars are older and they use
high-quality extended life oil filters
on them, that are in a can, and remember
if you've got any car questions just
visit the Scotty Kilmer channel and
I'll answer them as soon as I get back
from the twilight zone.

2020 Subaru Legacy First Impressions; Should You Buy a Vehicle with No Maintenance History? | #218

Consumer Reports:

We give our take on the
redesigned 2020 Subaru Legacy.
Then we address
some controversies
around emissions
and fuel economy.
And finally, we
answer your questions,
including one about whether
you should stick with a stick
shift for a long commute.
Next on Talking Cars.
[MUSIC PLAYING]

Hey, welcome back.
I'm Keith Barry.
I'm Jennifer Stockburger.
And I'm Ryan Pszczolkowski.
And today, we're going to start
off by talking about emissions
and safety have
been in the news,
and it's been because
a series of tweets,
and those tweets are
from @realDonaldTrump.
Name sounds familiar.
So the first one
is, "My proposal
to the politically
correct automobile
companies would lower
the average price
of a car to consumers
by more than $3,000,
while at the same time making
the car substantially safer.
Engines would run smoother.
Very little impact
on the environment!
Foolish executives!"
And then the second one is, "The
legendary Henry Ford and Alfred
Sloan, the founders of Ford
Motor Company and General
Motors, are 'rolling
over' at the weakness
of current car
company executives
willing to spend more
money on a car that
is not as safe or good, and
cost $3,000 more to consumers.
Crazy!"
Why is he talking cars?
That's our job.
That's our job really.
So, Jen, why have these
issues sort of surfaced?
Amidst all the
chaos in the world,
why are emissions worthy
of presidential attention?
Right.
So a bit of a timeline,
just forgive me,
but what he's referring to is
a recent agreement with Ford,
also BMW, Honda, and Volkswagen,
with the state of California
that says they will agree
to improve fuel economy
emissions to a level in between
what previously California
was requiring and was
part of a federal mandate.
So California is kind of able
to do its own thing, right?
So let me step back.
So 1970s fuel
economy standards--
That far back?
Right.
OK.
2009, the Supreme
Court says, hey, CO2,
which comes from burning
fuel, is a greenhouse
gas emissions and now can be
regulated as an air pollutant.
So they had two phases.
Phase one was 2012 to '16,
phase two 2017 to '25,
and they had to up by about
5% each year improvement.
In greenhouse--
In greenhouse gas
emissions, which ultimately
relates to fuel economy as well.
So included in that
was sort of a waiver
to the state of
California, because they
had worse pollution
issues, that they
could set even higher standards
than the federal mandates
over time, and other states
subsequently followed,
including Connecticut,
where we're based.
So those were considered
the clean car states.
So that phase two mandate also
included a mid-term review
that said, in 2018, we're
going to review and make
sure we're on the right track.
Originally, they said, those
standards seemed appropriate.
But more recently, and in
Trump's, Trump has said, hey,
I don't think we
need to go that far.
We're going kind of roll
back and freeze standards
where they should be in
2020 and not continue
to show these improvements.
So that Ford then says,
hey, wait a minute,
we need to kind of
know, Ford and others,
we're already planning
cars out to 2025.
Yeah, way past.
Yeah.
So they then agree
with California
to come somewhere in the middle.
Still improvements, not
to the same level as
was in the mandate, which
has not been erased yet,
but somewhere in between, and
that's what he's referring to.
So he's saying Henry Ford would
never have agreed to this.
He'd be rolling over
if he knew that Ford
was agreeing to these, which
were going to cost consumers
money.
Yeah.
So there's a lot to unpack here.
There's a lot to unpack here.
So, I mean, OK, we
could get pedantic
and say, oh, Alfred Sloan wasn't
the founder of General Motors,
he was one of the--
But, I mean, there's
some other things.
That $3,000 number, the fact
that cars are less safe if you
make them more--
this doesn't necessarily
all of this jibe
with some of the research
that we've done, right?
Right.
So some of this
is just not true.
Cars are safer than they were.
Right.
There's no doubt about that.
We don't even have
to go down that road.
More expensive, yeah maybe.
If you look at it as
the Accord 10 years ago
was less than it is today,
but the car 10 years ago
had half the features
that an Accord has today.
We're getting more
vehicle per pound
than we have ever in
the history of cars, OK?
Just between safety, all
the safety stuff that's
in them to make them
safer, it potentially
adds a little bit of weight,
but these cars are still
more efficient than they were.
So actually pound
for pound, we're
getting more car than
we've ever gotten
in the history of automobiles,
to be honest with you.
In some cases, if you
adjust for inflation,
some of these
vehicles are actually
a little cheaper than they--
if you adjusted the price from
10, 20 years ago to today.
I think what people are
seeing, though, too,
is that cars are physically
bigger than they were.
So if you take the
new Civic, it's
the size of the
old Honda Accord.
Right.
And they're growing.
It's safer, though.
This isn't a bad thing.
Yet, more fuel efficient.
And it's still getting
the fuel efficiency,
even though it's bigger.
And it may be a tad
heavier in some,
but it's still more efficient.
So some of this is true, some
of it's just flat out not true.
The other thing, too, he talks
about Henry Ford rolling over.
If I understand the automotive
philosophies of Henry Ford,
it was about quality
through mass production,
getting reasonably priced
cars to the common man.
To do that, Ford has
to be able to plan.
And to their point, which is
why they made this agreement,
they're already well
down the road to 2025.
And we have all
enjoyed technologies
that haven't hurt the
performance of the cars,
have improved it, but also
given us better fuel economy.
And to me, the price of
the car maybe or maybe not,
to Ryan's point, has
increased maybe slightly,
but there's the cost
of ownership, too.
We've all enjoyed
better fuel economy,
less money out of our wallet
every single day of the cars
we drive now.
So I'm not sure Henry
would be rolling over.
I'm sorry.
I like what you said
about continuity
because these car companies,
these are international car
companies.
They have to plan for
regulations in Europe, China,
India, I mean, South
America, everywhere.
Yep.
And if the United States
becomes an outlier,
they're probably just going
to do the R&D to meet whatever
the strictest standard is.
I mean, we see this in almost
any industry that's regulated.
Correct.
Correct.
You don't want five
different cars made.
They're going to
make one and make it.
And I said, as I'm
reading through this,
necessity is the
mother of invention.
And if these standards
become the necessity,
we all enjoy the invention
that comes from them.
So yeah.
I mean, it might be hard for
that R&D to take place, that
might be expensive, but
look at where we are now
versus the late 1970s, when that
sort of regulatory environment
first started.
Right.
We have catalytic converters.
I mean, just look at pictures
of what LA looked like, the air,
and compare it to today.
I know that's an unscientific
way of measurement.
It's very real, I do think.
So all right, so off to
talking about an actual car
that we've got.
We rented a 2020 Subaru Legacy.
Now for me, this is
a little familiar
because a couple of weeks ago
we talked about the Subaru
Outback, and they're
very similar.
But this is the sedan.
It's really popular
with our members.
It's an all-wheel drive sedan.
It's relatively affordable.
What do you think?
So I drove it for a little ways.
I didn't go too far with it,
but it's extremely comfortable.
I was shocked by how
this vehicle rides.
Yep.
The last Legacy I liked a lot.
We liked it.
It was highly rated.
This car isn't
exciting to drive,
but I couldn't believe
how well it rode.
It's a comfortable car.
You can get in it, got a normal
shifter, you just take off.
And it's got a CVT, you don't
notice it unless you really
stomp on the throttle
and it revs up,
but it's very easy to drive.
Thought the interior
was kind of nice.
I was very impressed with it.
Did you drive the turbo and
the naturally aspirated?
Yeah.
On the turbo, I mean,
the more power a CVT has,
the better the CVT
acts, I believe.
It was just an easy,
comfortable car to drive.
But it's not exciting.
The steering's a little
dull, and it's just
a comfortable car.
I love that turbo.
Yes.
I also drove the turbo, so yeah.
That's the one I would get,
I guess, if I could choose.
So I drove the turbo.
I know that on the
non-turbo version,
the 2.5, that there was some
concern about CVT noise,
I think, and the
cabin was quiet.
The power wasn't
readily available.
I was very impressed with
noise and comfort in the cabin.
The other thing is standard
safety, standard safety.
I mean, EyeSight is
standard, blindspot warnings
still optional.
Hmm.
It's, again, different systems.
We've talked about this before.
So just so you know, don't think
you're getting that as part
of the EyeSight package.
But I was very impressed.
I think old Subaru Legacy
owners will be happy.
I think new to
Legacy will be happy.
I was impressed.
Yeah, as the number of
sedans sort of decreases,
I think that Subaru
is finally going to--
Yeah, it's nice to see--
And I'm sure the big screen
will be a little polarizing.
I've had some
thoughts about that.
Yeah.
I had trouble with the screen
just getting used to it.
There's a learning curve.
There's a learning curve.
The climate is
integrated in the bottom,
and I didn't care for that.
I like the old just
hard button separate.
And you said standard
chapter, which I also--
Yeah, a regular shifter.
That's huge.
It sounds so silly to think of
that when you get in the car
nowadays, but I'm like, thank
god it's got a normal shifter.
Yeah.
The small pleasures.
Not a manual shifter, but a--
A standard automatic shifter.
Aw, shucks.
That screen, I got
to ask some more
about this, because I used it
with CarPlay and Android Auto.
And it's this huge screen,
but it moves it down
into this tiny--
Yeah, steals all
their real estate.
Yeah.
I don't think it's necessarily
terrible to have a large screen
if it's set up properly.
This one, what do you think?
I've talked about large screens
in that it also typically gives
you large icons, which I
do like because I think
you can more easily
just glance and do
what you need to do
and not have to get
so pinpoint in your selection.
So I do like that.
But to Ryan's point,
it may be more stuff
integrated into a screen--
which we've had
reliability issues,
where what happens when
the screen goes blank
on other models--
than people want, to the
point of Ryan's [INAUDIBLE]
with the climate.
Yeah.
Unlike the Volvo
one, at least it
has physical buttons for
temperature up and down.
But it's like half and half,
and that kind of drives me nuts,
too.
Yeah.
Either do it or don't.
It's a big screen.
I was impressed with that.
I mean, I didn't realize,
that's a big screen, like big.
It's big.
It's, what, 12 and
1/2 inches almost.
Yeah, it's huge.
And I'm not sure everybody
loved the seats, which
a Subaru isn't known for
its comfortable seats.
They didn't bother me, but yeah.
I mean, the fit and
finish in general to me,
I noticed a couple of things.
I mean, it sort of felt
like they made the leather
kind of feel a little
like elephant skin,
like it was just sort
of gray and saggy.
I've never--
Have you felt an
elephant really?
I said it looked like it.
Oh, I thought you
said it felt like.
Maybe I did.
Let's edit it that,
super producer.
But either way, it felt kind
of like that aftermarket dealer
installed leather that
you can get on some cars?
It kind of felt--
Pleather leather.
Yeah.
It felt like a Subaru for me.
Yeah.
I was indifferent on it, but
I thought it was a nice car.
Yeah, I did too.
I did too.
And for the price.
Overall a positive.
Yeah.
It's a good value.
It's out there for
also people who
might be trading in
kind of older Volvos
or getting rid of
that SAAB finally.
I think there's
something there for them.
Sure.
So that was a car
that we rented,
but we are going to buy our
own and do a full complement
of tests on it.
But for now, you can go to
consumerreports.org and read
our first drive, see
a bunch of pictures,
and tell me if the inside
looks like an elephant.
All right, that's--
Feels like an elephant.
Feels like an elephant.
That's enough from us for now.
We're going to go to your
questions, which you have
sent to talkingcars@icloud.com.
And some of you have
sent video questions,
so we're going to
go to those first.
Hey, Consumer Reports,
Mark from California.
A quick little background,
I got in a car accident
with our 2017
Toyota Prius Prime.
We wanted to move from a
plug-in hybrid to a 100% EV.
As you can see here, we
decided with the Model 3.
The Standard Range Plus Model
3 is a rear-wheel drive,
and so I wanted to know kind
of how my driving should change
based on that in the rain.
Probably not much in the snow
because we're in California,
and we just go to the
snow occasionally.
We'll probably take our
other cars for that.
But how should our driving
change in a rear-wheel drive
vehicle versus a front-wheel
or all-wheel drive vehicle?
Thank you so much.
All right, so rear-wheel drive,
really powerful electric car.
What does this guy need to know?
And he doesn't live near snow.
Honestly, not a lot.
Drive safely.
And with all the safety
systems and stuff,
it's rear-wheel drive
so this car has power.
If you step on the
gas really hard
and the tires want to
spin, the traction control,
stability control, is
going to shut you down
and you're going to be OK.
It's a fun car to drive.
I prefer a rear-wheel drive car.
But in general, no, you
don't need to really change.
And you are in
snow, I mean, you're
going to want some snow tires.
Right.
It does have
performance tires on it.
Yeah, exactly.
If you have occasion, Mark.
We're in sunny
California, so enjoy.
Right.
With its own emission
standards, as we discussed.
Right.
Yes.
All right, next question
comes from Matt.
Good morning, Consumer Reports.
We recently just lost our
2011 Mitsubishi Outlander
all-wheel drive to a deer,
and so we found a 2006 BMW X3.
And it has a little
over 100,000 miles.
We have no idea what the
previous owner has done to it
or how they took
care of it, and so I
was wondering if there's any
advice that you could give
to us on newly purchasing
a German used vehicle
and what we could do for any
preventative maintenance?
Any advice would be totally,
totally appreciated.
All right, so I'm
going to take this one.
Matt, get it inspected.
I don't care if a car
is $2,000 or $200,000,
bring it somewhere,
get it inspected.
That's the only way to know
if the car's a good buy.
But, I mean, this car,
I don't think it's
a tremendously bad idea.
Right.
So I think the
biggest concern was
he said, we have no idea
how it's been cared for,
which is makes me a little
wary of a car of that age.
That's terrifying.
If you look back
at reliability, we
don't even have a lot
for that era of the X3.
But it's a one for
owner satisfaction.
It's kind of poor for
owner satisfaction.
The price, if you look,
it retails around $5,000.
But is it $5,000, Matt,
that you want to risk?
I'm not sure.
Yeah, I've owned a
lot of $5,000 cars
that became $20,000
cars real quick.
Exactly.
And I think that's my point,
there is risk to that $5,000.
And if you go back, I
mean, I say look at a 2010
to 2011 Toyota RAV4.
About the same price,
bulletproof reliability,
standard stability control,
which he's not going to get.
For similar prices, I just
think there's better options.
But to your point, if you
decide to go this way,
I know it's available to
you, have it inspected.
And enjoy it.
I mean, it's not a not-fun car
to drive, so that's kind of--
No.
And when you're
out there again, I
know you told us you had
an issue with a deer,
we've got tips for how to
deal with deer and driving,
especially this time of year--
Yeah, as the
temperatures get cooler,
the deer are moving more.
Yeah.
They're hungry, too.
They're hungry, too.
All right, next
question is from Thomas.
"I drive a 2013 Ford Flex"--
Jen, this question
is here for you--
"and it's almost time for me
to purchase a new vehicle.
I have loved the Flex more
than any other modern vehicle
I've ever owned.
It's roomy and has the
ability to carry five adults.
I'd buy a 2020 Flex, but
it's being discontinued.
What would you suggest for me?"
So Thomas is my friend.
So finally.
So totally--
The kinship of the Flex.
The kinship of the Flex
because everything he says.
That car, unfortunately,
Thomas, for you,
I don't think anything
that's like that exists.
It was somewhat of
a unique vehicle--
It was unique vehicle.
So I kind of walked
through some homework.
If you were truly, if five
adults were what you really
needed, you'd be
looking at something
like a Ford Expedition
or a Chevrolet Suburban.
That's the type of car that gets
you that comfortable roominess
for five adults.
Unfortunately, you're
looking at about $70,000.
And terrible fuel economy.
You're looking at 16
miles per gallon overall
and a huge bulky vehicle.
Come down.
And again, I don't know where
your preferences are, Thomas.
I just know what you said
and what you and I like.
Toyota Sienna.
You're talking about good
third row, 21 miles per gallon,
super reliable, standard
safety, good price.
I'm not sure a minivan is an
option for someone coming out
of a Flex.
OK, next step with
all of that said,
things that appeal
to me like the Flex
appealed to me and
Consumer Reports,
I think I would say something
like the Subaru Ascent.
Visibility, relatively
comfortable third row,
22 miles per gallon,
reliable, standard safety,
Subaru Ascent as the
best replacement I could
think of for the Ford Flex.
What do you think?
Any thoughts?
Kia Telluride.
Or Kia Telluride, right.
So the Flex was great because
it was easy to get in and out.
It's a unique vehicle, kind
of low wagon-ish thing.
The Telluride, it's
got a roomy backseat.
We loved it.
I love that car.
I think that's a fantastic car.
It's really well-appointed.
Yeah.
Great value.
Yeah.
All kinds of goodies in it.
It's one of those sad times when
your favorite car disappears.
Yes.
Sad.
Unfortunately,
that's how it goes.
It's sad.
But I'd go with the Ascent, too.
I mean, there's plenty
of room in that.
Look at those.
Look at those.
I'd say wild card, Ford
Transit Connect's passengers,
passenger version.
Low to the ground.
That is a wild card.
That's a wild card, all right.
Yeah.
That was not on my list.
No, no.
Robert from Texas
has a question.
"I'm retiring soon, and I'll
be paying cash for a new SUV.
Should I let heavy
factory incentives
on a particular model
sway my decision?
I have my eye on a Honda
CRV or a Subaru Forester"--
which are both cars
that we recommend--
"but I've seen massive cash
incentives on the Ford Edge."
Cash incentives,
what's he talking here?
You'll see a dealer advertise
a car for, I don't know,
$8,000 $9,000 off of
its original price.
It sounds very enticing
right off the bat.
Something I've learned, a
quest for a car some years ago,
that's if you qualify
for a bunch of things,
military discount,
schoolteacher.
Good, good credit.
Sometimes bad credit.
I mean, some of
them are ridiculous.
Right.
You have to qualify, and that's
if you qualify for all these.
And the average person doesn't
qualify for all of them.
You're not actually
getting that much off.
There's a little asterisk
after that $8,000.
But there can still
be money saved.
In the case of what
he's looking at,
I would never let the
incentives sway you
towards a car that's
not that great.
Yeah, and sometimes
they put incentives
on cars that are slow.
The Ford Edge is actually
a really nice car.
It may not be as reliable
as the CRV or a Forester
or highly rated by us, but
I like the Ford Edge a lot.
And you're looking at three
great cars right there,
I think.
And to Ryan's point, I
don't think you should ever
let cash incentives--
they will never
make a subpar car
great, but if you're at
that tiebreaker point.
And the other point here was the
Ford Edge is a mid-sized SUV.
It's a roomier car than the CRV.
But with that, 22 miles
per gallon versus 28.
Are you going to
eat some of that
up in, again, cost of
ownership over time?
Especially if you're going to
be keeping it for a long time.
Yeah.
You have to really weigh that
out, actually go and see what
incentives you're going to get.
Right.
Actually get a number.
Right.
What do you qualify for?
Yeah.
Well, I mean, it's incredible,
but I was all excited,
I'm looking at this like,
$8,000 off a Silverado?
No.
Yeah.
And sometimes the dealer
actually gets an incentive
that they don't tell you about.
Yeah.
And you can ask if they have
any incentives on the back end.
So yeah, Robert--
That's their wiggle room
that you may not know about.
Right.
Exactly.
Good luck, Robert.
Yeah.
Yep.
We got time for one more.
We got time for one more?
All right, Augie
from San Francisco.
"I'm starting a new job
in a couple of weeks,
and I'll have a much longer
commute than I'm used to.
It's 100 miles
round trip"-- ugh--
"and a mix of city
and highway driving.
I currently drive a 2014
Volkswagen GLI with a manual.
Would this car be good
for my new commute,
or should I look
into something new?
I'm looking at the Chevrolet
Volt, Honda Insight,
or wild card Chevy Cruze
Diesel or Jaguar XE 20D Diesel.
I'm an enthusiast, so driving
dynamics are important
as well as good headlights
and advanced safety tech."
That's a commute.
Yeah, that's--
Oof.
That's a commute.
Yeah.
So when you rattled off
some of his choices,
one of the things
I was thinking is
the diesels are going
to excel in highway
driving, the hybrids--
the Volt, the
Insight-- are going
to excel in more stop-and-go
city driving and overall fuel
economy.
What is the mix?
I mean, if it's truly 50-50,
it's not going to matter.
But is it more highway?
So that was one thought I had.
The manual, if there's
a lot of traffic,
is that something he's
going to want to do?
You're going to have a Popeye
the Sailor Man arm here
and leg.
But I also did say
the Jaguar XE for me
would be out in terms of it's
pretty low in reliability.
I own one, and I bought
it because it's--
the diesel actually--
and I bought it
because there are
incredible deals on it.
And we get all sorts
of cars to drive here,
I just needed something.
And it was cheaper than--
I looked at almost the
exact same list of cars
as Augie here.
Why am I talking?
You should be.
Well, because I'm telling
him to buy a Jaguar,
and that's not something
we'd ever otherwise do.
But I get like 41 miles a gallon
on mostly highway driving.
It does drop city.
I haven't had any issues with
mine, but a lot of other people
have from the brand.
Yeah.
You can get an insanely
good deal on it.
It's been discontinued
for this year,
so you'd have to get a used one.
Also, there are plenty
still on dealer lots.
And probably a good, like
you say, a good deal.
But the same with the
Volt. I mean, honestly,
if I had a place to plug in
and could do it over again,
I might consider the Volt.
Yep.
I would consider that.
The Insight probably
not on the list.
What do you think?
So I was never a hybrid or
plug in the wall kind of guy,
but the GLI is a
fun car to drive.
So he mentions handling
dynamics, and he has that car.
The GLI is a blast.
It really comes down to like
Jen said, what's the split?
Is it really 50/50 highway/city?
Maybe he should just start your
commute with the GLI and see--
That's what I was going to say.
I would try it for a
little bit and see--
See what the traffic's like.
Yeah.
See if your right arm
starts to develop.
Because half of the enjoyment
for me would be in a long drive
like that is, do I like
driving this thing?
Is this fun?
Right.
But you also have to think about
standard safety features, too.
In stop-and-go
traffic, though, you're
going to have to
consider things that
can make it easier and
safer, automatic emergency
braking, easier adaptive cruise
control with traffic jam assist
or sort of stop-and-go.
So I'd say if the other thing
is that with all of these cars,
I would try them out, test
driving them in a traffic jam.
Absolutely.
Right.
In a traffic jam.
Because some cars have very
different personalities
depending upon where you are.
Give it a couple months with
the GLI and then see, then see.
And then these other cars will
be just that much cheaper.
Right, including the Jaguar.
I'll sell you mine.
It's off lease in a year.
So that's about all
the time we've got.
Thanks for your questions.
You can keep sending them
to talkingcars@icloud.com.
We talked about a lot of stuff.
If you want to
learn more about it,
we have articles on almost
every topic and every car
that we mentioned today, so
check out the show notes.
And thanks for
viewing, listening.
We'll talk to you soon.
[MUSIC PLAYING]

Torque Converter, How does it work ?

Learn Engineering:

Most of us enjoy the smooth and effortless feeling of driving in an automatic transmission car
The driving is effortless because you don't need to worry about gear changing, and you don't have a clutch pedal to operate in
An automatic transmission car the work of the clutch pedal is automatically done by a hidden component
Which is truly an engineering marvel the torque converter.
The torque converter can even multiply the torque. Let's see how this purely mechanical device performs its tasks
Assume you are driving along smoothly, and you have to apply the brakes
When you press the brake pedal the vehicles drive wheels stop turning
This means that the drive shaft and the Associated transmission should also stop spinning
But here comes the issue by applying the brakes you are not stopping the engine
So at the time of braking if the engine and transmission are mechanically connected
This would lead to a serious mechanical failure or the engine will stall
You need a motion isolator for this purpose. this motion isolator is the torque converter?
The torque converter is able to efficiently isolate the engine rotation from the transmission at the time of braking
In normal driving conditions it transfers the engine rotation and power to the transmission
Let's see how it works
This is a really simplified torque converter. It is basically a pump and a turbine immersed in transmission liquid
The pump is directly connected to the engine so it always turns at the engine speed
The liquid surrounding the pump will be pushed outwards due to the centrifugal force and it's pressure increases
The rotation of the pump adds a swirl to the liquid leaving the pump
The turbine sits near to the pump and the high energy fluid coming out of the pump turns the turbine
The turbine is connected to the transmission
This way the engine power is transferred to the transmission via the transmission fluid?
More specifically this configuration is known as a fluid flywheel
When we introduce a component called a reactor between the turbine and pump it becomes a torque converter
One of the main duties of the reactor is to send the fluid from the turbine back to the pump efficiently
We will discuss more functions of the reactor later
With this configuration even if the transmission comes to a sudden halt it will not affect the engine rotation
Slippage between the pump and turbine is allowed here since they are connected by the fluid
During normal operation the pump will be able to transfer motion and power to the turbine
It should be noted that the turbine turns at slightly lower rpm than the pump due to energy loss in the fluid
This is a simplified torque converter
But you will never find this kind of configuration in any actual torque converter
The pump and turbine of an actual torque converter is shown here
In an actual torque converter the pump sits near to the transmission
And the turbine sits near to the engine
Let's give proper colors to the components for better understanding
Rotation from the engine is transmitted to the pump with the help of a cover
The turbine output Rotation is transmitted to the transmission using a central shaft
However, why is this arrangement made more complex than the previous case
the answer for this comes from mechanical rather than fluid mechanics
For the efficient operation of a torque converter the pump and turbine should both rotate in line with the crankshaft centerline
The pump is directly connected to the engine crankshaft, so that will always be centered
However, the turbine is independent of this unit
this means that a bearing has to be used between the turbine and the crankshaft
as Illustrated
in order to make sure the turbine is also centered to the crankshaft
In the current configuration one can achieve this quite easily however in the previous configuration
This is very difficult since the turbine is far away from the crankshaft
Now you might be wondering why this device which isolates motion is named as a torque converter
This is because one of the most important functions of this device is to multiply the torque as the vehicle starts to move
Let's see how the torque converter does this
The reactor is connected to a stationary shaft via a one-way clutch this means the reactor will be able to turn in one direction
But not In the opposite
For ease of understanding let's increase the spacing between the components
Now consider the situation as the vehicle starts here the pump is spinning at the engine speed
But the turbine speed is lower and is slowly increasing
This means that the fluid which leaves the turbine travels almost axially as shown
This fluid when it hits the reactor blades will try to spin the reactor as shown
But the one-way clutch in the reactor prevents this motion
So what happens is that the fluid will be diverted in the same direction as the pumps rotation due to the stationary reactor as shown?
In short the pump which adds swirl to the flow receives an already swirled fluid
This makes the work of the pump easier and a greater pressure addition happens across the pump
this highly pressurized fluid generates an amplified torque at the turbine and thus the
transmission and the vehicle receives a greater level of torque as the vehicle starts to move
However as the turbine speed increases
The fluid leaving the turbine becomes more inclined as shown
and at one point of time
the inclined flow hits the other side of the reactor blades
The reactor is free to spin in this direction
so the reactor spins in the same direction as the pump and the turbine
You can see that the swirl generation of the pump Inlet is lesser than the previous case
And the torque multiplication ceases
Here the turbine will be rotating at almost 90 percent of the pump speed
This is a brilliant design
As the vehicle starts to move when the driver needs maximum torque
The Torque converter Multiplies the torque
when the turbine attains a threshold speed
the torque multiplication automatically ceases
Thus the reactor plays a crucial role at the vehicle start?
But without the reactor the torque converter will not perform well even in normal operation
Let's see why
You might have noticed that the blades of the turbine are curved
They are curved almost 90 degrees to absorb maximum energy from the fluid
This means the turbine blades will always force the fluid to leave in a direction opposite to the rotation of pump and turbine
due to this even at hide turbine speed the fluid swirl at the turbine outlet will be minimum
If we do not use a reactor this very low swirl will affect the performance of the pump and the whole torque converter very badly
With the introduction of reactor the flow gets diverted again, and the pump receives the fluid with improved swirl
Even in normal operation you will find that the turbine turns slower than the pump in a torque converter
This is due to energy loss within the coupling fluid
To eliminate such energy losses modern torque converters use a lock-up clutch
By activating this clutch during the normal operation
The turbine will be mechanically locked with the pump unit and they will turn at the same speed
This eliminates energy loss due to the fluid friction
Before winding up the video, let's summarize the uses of this brilliant mechanical device
Thank you for watching the video and don't forget to be one of our patrons

How to Remove Broken Camshaft Position Sensor 07-13 Chevy Silverado

1A Auto Parts:

How to Replace Camshaft Position Sensor 07-13 Chevy Silverado

1A Auto Parts:

How to Change Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter (COMPLETE Guide)

ChrisFix:

Hey guys, ChrisFix here, and today,
I'm going to show you how to change the transmission fluid and the transmission filter in your car or truck in this case.
We're working on a 2001 Mazda pickup truck.
It's the same Chassis as the Ford Ranger, Ford Explorer, and many other Fords and Mazdas,
but even if you don't have a Ford or Mazda, this
process is going to be very similar for most makes and models. There might be little differences here and there,
But just like changing your engine oil the process is relatively similar. So after watching this, you'll be able to change the transmission fluid for
your vehicle.
So there are five main steps for changing your automatic transmission fluid. One: get the vehicle in the air and drop the transmission pan. Two:
replace the filter. Three: replace the transmission pan gasket.
Four: install the pan. Five: add the fluid. It's that simple.
So let's get started. This job is going to be an automatic transmission fluid change, not a flush.
With a flush most places use a machine to pump out all the old fluid and add in brand new fluid,
but they don't remove the drain pan, so typically, the filter isn't replaced. With a transmission fluid change, you drop the transmission pan
so you can get access to the filter and replace the filter—which is exactly what I want to do.
But remember—with the fluid change you only remove about half of the old fluid. If you aren't sure what to do check the owner's
manual, which will tell you if you should change or flush the fluid in your specific vehicle.
It'll also tell you how many miles you could go before you need to change or flush the fluid and.
Finally, check your transmission fluid fluid in good condition is bright pink,
but if your fluid looks black, smells burnt, or has metallic specks in it, your transmission is probably damaged, and in that case, do a
fluid change since it only removes half the old fluid, or just leave it alone.
But don't flush the fluid because flushing the fluid is going to remove all that suspended clutch material and that could cause your transmission to
slip. So now let me show you how to change
transmission fluid so you can prevent damage to your transmission. And here are all the tools you're going to need. As
always, use some gloves and safety goggles to protect your hands and eyes, and there really aren't many tools that you need for this job.
We have a 13 millimeter, ten millimeter, and an extension for our ratchet. Torque wrench,
scraper for the gasket, and also an abrasive pad for the gasket to clean it off. A funnel and some brake clean,
some towels,
and you're also going to need some type of catch can to catch all the fluid that's draining out and
then I like to put down a tarp or some cardboard on the ground so I don't get oil all over my driveway.
So those are all the tools, now
we need to make sure that we're using the correct transmission fluid, and to do so, consult your owner's manual and
see what fluid is required. If you look over here Ford requires the use of Mercon©V. Now that varies from vehicle to vehicle,
so make sure you check your owner's manual, because if you use the wrong fluid, you'll cause transmission damage. So for my truck
I'm using Mercon©V, and we're also replacing the transmission filter since I don't know the last time it was changed,
or if it was ever changed. Plus, when you get your filter, it comes with the gasket you need to seal the transmission pan after
you drain the fluid. and that just about covers everything you need to know so let's begin. All
right. Step one. We want to lift our vehicle so we could drain our transmission fluid. In this case, I used ramps
But you could use jack stands if you want.
After the vehicle is safely lifted and the wheels are chocked off, we could slide the tarp and catch can under the truck. Now
we need to be able to find where the transmission pan is. So going from the front of the car as we move backwards, you
can see the front crossmember, the front differential,
the oil pan, the catalytic converter, and then the transmission pan.
Now since we don't have a drain bolt, what we're going to do is we're going to do a controlled leak to drain our fluid.
And what I mean by controlled leak is we're going to remove the rear bolts here
completely, but leave the front bolts in so our pan comes down at an angle and then when it comes down at an angle the
fluid's going to leak out the back right into our drain pan. To remove this transmission pin,
there are eighteen bolts surrounding the whole pan.
So I'm going to start with the rear ones here and loosen them all the way. And these bolts should be easy to remove with
a normal ratchet—no breaker bar needed. And that's one,
two, three,
four,
and
five.
So with the rear bolts removed, I notice the drips are leaking down on the frame and off to the side which is going to
make a mess. To combat this problem grab a piece of tinfoil which is going to allow us to funnel
the leak and prevent it from getting all over the frame.
Alright now let's remove the side bolts and the ones on the other side as well.
Go from side to side and
now I'm going to be using this universal joint extension for this tricky bolt hidden behind the catalytic converter. Right back here.
That was easy enough. And as I loosen this front side bolt, the pan should tilt. And
there's our controlled spill. And as that leaks out, I'm going to remove that bolt. Good! With most of the fluid removed,
I'm going to get rid of this tin foil.
And then let's completely remove the final two bolts and as you do this make sure you support the transmission pan.

And that's one, and that's the other. So now we can lower the pan. And this pan just simply slides out.

And that's the end of step one.
Step two: We want to replace the filter. So to remove the filter, there's one bolt right here—it's a 10mm—
that's holding this filter in. So all we have to do is remove that and that'll drop out.
And just like all the other bolts that we've been removing, this one is going to be really easy to remove.
Now just pull down on the filter and it pops right out.
Here's a very helpful top tip. You see all these bolts up here? These bolts hold the transmission valve body against the
transmission. Due to vibration over time, some of these bolts become loose
and it's important that they're tight.
Because they compress a gasket which holds fluid pressure and that pressure gives you crisp shifts. So check this out—you see how I can
turn my ratchet and easily turn this bolt?
Well snug all of these bolts to eight foot-pounds. Don't over tighten them. If one's already tight, leave it because that's fine.
Just move on to the next one try to start from the middle and move outwards in a crisscross pattern
which will seal the valve body against the
transmission and this will prevent problems with shifting in the future and it might even make your tranny shift more crisp and just better overall.
So with those tightened down, let's go replace the filter. So here's our new filter and here's the filter
we just removed from the transmission. And check this out—
there's a big crack,
and that's not good because the filter is what sucks up the fresh fluid into the transmission and with that hole, it's leaking suction.
So it's good that we're changing this out. And
make sure you stay tuned to the end of the video because we're going to cut open this filter and see if there's anything inside.
Whenever we replace parts you want to make sure that the parts look identical so match them up, make sure they look the same.
The reason why I always say compare the new part to the old part is because of this: I ordered
a transmission filter and they sent me this one. And if we compare this, well, right away, we could see that
it doesn't have that spout. The spout is for my deeper transmission pan
so it could suck up the fluid. So if I installed this one,
I could have caused damage if no fluid was getting sucked up.
So that's why you always just take a few seconds and compare the old and new parts. All right.
So let's get the old one out of the way and work on this new one. For the new one,
we're going to install the O-rings and what you want to do is you want to get some of that transmission fluid,
get the O-Rings, and just lube up the O-rings.
Small one goes here.
Fits on just like that. And the big one snaps right on here.
Just like that. And this is all ready to get installed so let's go and install it. All right—back under the car,
let's install our filter. All we do is line each fitting up,

and push it in to seat the O-ring.
Now, tighten the filter bolt down. Always hand tighten first because this prevents cross threading. And once you tighten it, this gets torqued down to
eight to ten foot pounds. Good! And step two is complete. Let's move on to step three. Now
we're going to install our brand new gasket on the oil pan, but first,
we need to get our oil pan and remove the old gasket. Now this gasket is a rubber one,
so it should come off pretty easy. And
if yours doesn't come off easy, I suggest you use a plastic scraper,
not a metal one. A plastic one isn't going to gouge the metal. You could do as much as you want here and
nothing is going to happen to this metal. If you use a metal scraper,
then there's a good chance that you might gouge the metal, might cause a little scratch or something, and that's enough for
fluid to seep out and over time cause a leak. And you don't want that.
Before we clean the pan, in most pans you'll find a magnet designed to remove metal filings from the fluid. And this magnet has a
ton of tiny metal pieces on it,
which is fine. What we don't want to see or any big pieces, but again, this looks normal.
So to clean this we want to get some brake clean and we're going to spray it down. Now
I'll be using a bucket so we can keep everything nice and clean and just spray down the whole thing with brake clean.
All that dirt and grime is coming right off. And
after we spray it down a little bit, we could take our towel and just clean it out.
Alright, that looks pretty good.
Now what we need to do is we need to clean this mating surface here. Get one of these Scotch-Brite™ pads
that's slightly abrasive, and then all you're going to do is clean it up.
You want to make sure all the gasket material and dirt is removed from the surface because any leftover gasket material will cause a leak.
Then do a final spray to clean this up—and look at that—nice and clean. I also cleaned the outside,
but as you guys know, this isn't all. I like to go overboard.
Primer. Paint.
Now obviously you don't need to paint your transmission pan,
but I decided it would be a good thing to do since I have it off. So now that that's dry,
let's go install this. Now what we want to do is we want to use a grease along the edge.
I'm going to be using silicone paste, and what that's going to do is it's going to make that surface tacky.
So when you put your gasket on it won't move around—it'll hold it in place.
So just make sure all the holes are aligned and check this out—this holds itself in so it's not going anywhere.
Normally this gasket would fall right off, but with just a little bit of grease your life
is that much easier. If you have a paper or cork gasket, I recommend using a gasket adhesive
which is going to help the gasket stick and prevent leaks. Another thing
I want to mention is that we're going to be reusing these bolts,
so you want to make sure the threads are clean, you want to make sure that there's no gasket adhesive on here,
and I just hit them with some brake clean and all the dirt came right off. And this is all ready to get installed,
so let's go put it in.
Before we install the transmission pan, don't forget under the car we also want to clean the mating surface on the transmission
so it's clear of any gasket material. So use your abrasive Scotch-Brite™ sponge and clean the whole
perimeter. If you need, use a plastic scraper to get the remaining gasket material off, but this was pretty clean,
and I don't need to use it. And with that surface clean, we're done with step three so let's move on to step four.
For this step we're installing the transmission pan. It's pretty simple:
just line it up and make sure you don't move the gasket by mistake. Once you get it lined up, press the pan against the
transmission so the gasket doesn't move, and start hand tightening those bolts in. For now only hand tighten the bolts to barely compress the gasket.
The order you tighten the bolts in doesn't matter while you're hand tightening them,
but it will matter once we start torquing them down in a couple of seconds.
So get them all hand tight and don't use a ratchet this step because that'll tighten them too much.
So now we have all the bolts in around the perimeter of our drain pan, and they're just barely compressing the gasket. Now
we want to squeeze the gasket to prevent leaks.
But we're not just going to squeeze it by tightening up the bolts in whatever order you want to go on a crisscross pattern
for each bolt
so it compresses the gasket
evenly. Most of the time you want to start from the middle and I'm going to use this bolt to start. And if it helps
you, I wrote down the sequence
so you know to order to go in, because I have a feeling I might lose track of what bolt I need to tighten next.
So you could always just reference this. All right, let's get the bolts torqued down.
These bolts need to be torqued around 10 to 15 foot-pounds,
and I'm going to be using a crisscross pattern like I explained before.
Just like how you tighten the lug nuts on a wheel in a star pattern. I'm going to include a link to the tightening sequence
diagram in the description so you can use that as a reference.
I have to use a universal joint socket for that hard-to-reach bolt,
and I'm just going to torque it down by feel since torque wrenches aren't really accurate with universal joint extensions. Good.
Just two More bolts to torque.
Alright, so everything is all torqued down, and that's the end of step four. Now
we're on our last step—step 5. Let's go fill 'er up with fluid.
Now we need to figure out how much transmission fluid we need to fill the transmission completely,
but not overfill it.
So to figure out how much fluid we need to add,
let's see how much fluid we actually drained out of the transmission. And what we're going to do is we're going to use one of
these old oil containers that have the markings on the side here and with no fluid in this container,
it's going to easily tip over, so make sure you support it. And carefully fill the old oil container and
try not to make a mess like I just did. The good thing is the box will contain the mess I made.
Now if we take a look at where we're at, we're right here, so there's three quarts,
there's three and a half quarts, so
we want to put three and a half quarts in and then take our measurement. And this is a really easy way to figure out
how much fluid we removed so now you know how much fluid we need to add. Our
drain pan had three and a half quarts of fluid, so we have four bottles here, each is a quart. Now
let's go and fill up our transmission.
You fill your transmission through the dipstick hole, and if you don't have a dipstick,
there'll be a fill bolt somewhere on the top of the transmission. With the funnel in place,
I want to add three and half quarts of transmission fluid to replace the fluid we removed from the drain pan.
Once the transmission is filled, remove the funnel and put the dipstick back in.
Now we just need to go start the car.
And then back down the ramps.
With the car off the ramps on level ground we're going to shift through the different gears,
we're going to go to each one of them, and
then we're going to let the engine run for about two minutes, three minutes, let the transmission heat up, let all the fluid circulate, and then
we're going to check our fluid.
All right, we went through the different gears,
we let the engine and transmission warm up a little bit,
it should be warm enough to go check the transmission fluid level. In this vehicle, the car has to be in idle and the transmission
has to be warm for you to check the fluid, so we'll leave the car running and let's go check the fluid.
The fluid is supposed to come up to the batched area, but it's just barely on the tip of the dipstick,
so we have to add some more.
I'm going to add the other half a quart and recheck the level.
After adding that half a quart, let's see where we're at. And
this is perfect. You can clearly see the fluid is right in the middle of the dashed area. Beautiful.
Now let's shut the engine and check for leaks.
So now you want to go back under the car real quick and just check for leaks and be careful the exhaust is now going
to be hot, but if we look here, we look around the perimeter. I don't see any leaks. So that's a job well done.
So there you go that's an in-depth guide on how to replace the transmission fluid and the filter.
It's easy to do and it's worth every penny because transmissions are not cheap. This transmission holds 10 quarts.
And we replaced four of those quarts, so we changed out almost half the fluid. Plus,
we got a new filter in there and speaking of filter. Let's go check out the inside of that old filter.
And here we go. Just pry it apart.
So the outside the filter looks pretty good. Let's see if there's anything trapped on the inside.
And check this out—there are tons of small metal fragments and a large one here.
So that goes to show you how important these filters are because you wouldn't want these metal pieces running through your
transmission. And there we go, hopefully the video was helpful,
and if you aren't subscribed,
consider subscribing for new how-to videos every week. Up on the screen are related videos like how to change your engine oil. And as always,
I link all products and tools in the description so you could easily find them.