Instrument Cluster Repair – 2003-2006 5.3L Chevy Silverado (Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, etc.)
BlueDriver:
welcome to a very special edition of our
fear no fix video series on the BlueDriver
channel today we have one that's
kind of out of the ordinary there's no
trouble codes doesn't really hurt the
way the vehicle drives it's not unsafe
it's just a pain in the butt it's when
your PRNDL indicator is not reading
out so... there's a really expensive fix
and then there's a really cheap fix
Chris this is a great one this is an
honest full-on just repair we're not
replacing any parts we're just gonna
remove the instrument cluster we're gonna
resolder a bad connection
put it back in and we're good to go yeah
this happens all the time on these
trucks so hopefully this saves you a ton
of money and hopefully this video saves
you a bunch of time and if so please
like the video and subscribe to us on
our BlueDriver Channel let's get at this one Chris
the tools you'll need to
complete the instrument cluster repair
are a ratchet, a seven millimeter or
nine thirty second socket a ratchet
extension a soldering iron and wheel
chocks
we'll start by setting the steering
wheel as low as it can go next we're
going to put the ignition run for a
second and we're going to put the
gearshift as low as it can go
now we're gonna pry out on this panel
right here from the top looks like
someone already tried this repair a
couple years ago I swear this wasn't me
just start around the edges pull gently it'll pop out
and up and out
now we're going to take a seven millimeter socket and we're gonna remove the bolts here
here up here and back there
we'll have to put the gearshift back as
low as it'll go
pull the instrument cluster out
and then squeeze in on this gray connector right here
and that's it
all right we're set up on the workbench first thing we're
gonna do is take the instrument cluster
apart and then we're gonna have a look at that board
first we're gonna ply up on these clips here and here
and the clips on the other side
push on these two tabs with a
screwdriver and then pull up
now we're going to remove the gauge
needles pry up on the needle on both
sides at the same time and pull them off
the stepper motors
these resistors here are the most likely
culprits small cracks might develop
where the resistor is soldered to the
board
this can cause intermittent display
issues or the display might fail completely
this is a close-up of the
solder joint under a microscope you
don't need anything like this for the
repair this is just kind of to give you
a good idea of what exactly is going on
you can see at the bottom of this
resistor there's a small crack running
horizontally as the resistor pries up or
down this can make or break contact
causing the display to come on and off
just to play it safe we're going to
resolder each resistor
using your soldering iron melt the existing solder then add a dab of new stuff as well
we'll do this again now for each
resistor
now we're ready to reassemble the
instrument cluster snap on the front half
reinstall the gauge needles on the
stepper motors make sure the needles
can't rotate counterclockwise beyond the
zero position for each gauge if the
needles are put on incorrectly then when
you start the truck you might see
something like 5,000 rpm negative 1,000
rpm zero volts etc so they have to be
put on in the same position they came
off
snap on the back half of the instrument panel
that's it for the repair and now we'll
head back to the truck to see if it worked
now that we've resoldered all those
resistors we're going to put it back in
first we'll hook up this connector
the gray points back towards the front of the truck
put in our four seven millimeter bolts
put the gearshift in the lowest position again
and reinstall the dash piece
and then just push all around the
outside to clip it in
now that everything's reinstalled we're gonna give it a try and see if we can figure out what gear we're in
perfect everything looks great
ah ha! and there it is it works again
nice Chris now I know when I'm in drive
my garage door is safe so this one you
don't have to clear check engine light
no nothing you're back on the road not
hitting your garage door so if you liked
this video if it made your life easier
if it saved you a ton of money please
like the video and subscribe to our BlueDriver channel and until next time
Fear No Fix
you
Here's Why Chevy Dealerships are Crap
Scotty Kilmer:
rev up your engines
Michael cologne he says 07 Acura
RDX 90,000 miles called P2263 issued a
check engine light the dealer once
replace the turbo for six grand it pulls
fine and I don't feel any difference I
can't pass inspection please help yeah
you know when you get vacuum leak or
stuff wrong with the system it won't
pass emissions testing they're trying to
say the problem is in your turbo it very
well could be but if it runs okay so
you're stuck between a rock and a hard
place find a mechanic like me maybe he
could just reset it drive it a little
and if it'll pass the emissions test
then go get it tested right away I do
that for customers all the time when he
got some nagging thing that's gonna cost
a fortune but it runs okay a lot of
times you can reset it if it's got some
kind of a vacuum leak at least just
patch it with duct tape or something you
just take duct tape up if you want as
long as it runs okay you know there's
always ways to get around stuff if four
car runs perfectly fine door somebody's
trying to rip you for that kind of money
now if you do have to replace the turbo
don't pay 6 grand don't go to a dealer
you can get refurbished ones from many
places all over the world online and
replace it with a recondition one this
places that will take yours and
refurbish it for you Greg says Scotty
is a 2.7 liter EcoBoost a good reliable
engine over time understand what
EcoBoost is it means that it's GDI
gasoline injection with insane
high-pressure spraying of fuel directly
in the engine and also turbochargers
which brings more air in the engine so
there's more pressure in the engine and
guess what the more pressure the fast or
something will wear out over time if you
took that same engine and it was just a
normal engine with fuel injection and no
turbos and drove them both in the same
vehicle the one that's the EcoBoost is
gonna wear out faster and it's just the
way that it goes strain more they're
gonna wear out faster they work fine for
you know usually the first few years
100,000 miles or more
but eventually it will wear out fast to
realize that if you're the type of
person to trade your vehicle in every
100,000 miles your style you probably be
happy with but if you want really really
long-term now you better not to buy that
complex stuff Senya treasure like says
when should I change all the fluids in my
2014 Durango Hemi I only drive 5,000
miles annually well oil it doesn't
matter its mileage and/or age so you
want to change the engine at once a year
use good synthetic oil change it once
here that's fine the rest of the stuff
you're probably gonna go more by time
than mileage like I would change the
transmission fluid but if you only
driving 5,000 miles a year I change it
once every five or six years yeah and
the coolant you go by the not the
mileage but the year like a few at that
Toyota hoat coolant that's good for up
to seven years the Dodge coolant I
believe the factory stuff is good for
five years find out how long it is and
then change it by the years not the
mileage because things wear out over
time
find out what time for each and change
it at that time instead of the mileage
because you're not putting on the
mileage they still degrade over time
specially the engine oil, J Texas 1974
live free or die Scotty can you
tell me how long you can drive a car
with a failing or bad torque converter
thanks well of course that depends on
how bad the torque converter is yeah I
got customers with torque converters
that are weak that drive them for years
and years and years in my 94 celcia has
an automatic transmission the torque
converter is weak but it was a weak when
I bought it used and it's still weak and
I still drive it the only problem with
that is it shakes a lot in drive so when
you're driving if you leave it and drive
the engine shakes and idle I just put it
neutral and it runs smooth this can be
so I Drive it that way I really don't
care I'm not gonna take the transmission
off just to change the torque converter
and if it still works like that who
cares but there are torque converters
that physically fall apart when they
start making noise or when the gears
start to slam into gear when you're
driving then they're not gonna let us
talk that long it depends on how badly
worn they are cuz they will wear in
different models in different ways some
of them just have bad welds GM had some with bad welds
when the welds break then it starts
falling apart clang and then you got to
change it sooner than later or it will
destroy a bunch of other stuff Garcia says
Scotty I was a feeling driving on GT
Mustang 65 I've been 2005 in a Celica
2002 I feel like you oh yeah yeah the
old cars the fun to drive they're real
cars that's said
they're not like a modern car you get
turn the key and take off and that's all
you got to think about stuff that's 65
GT that I was showing it's got a hand
choke you gotta start it up play with
the chock a little let it warm up a few
minutes before you drive it seriously
and you know it's a standard
transmission so you gotta shift gears
and it's an old one so that's the clutch
it's relatively stepped you got to be
used to pushing down on that hard clutch
with your left foot the only thing I
ever drove this stiffer than that was a
customer had a Corvette and that you
he had to use both feet on a
clutch pedal to get it down it was so
hard to push it down on that Corvette
they were notorious for having sticky
clutch pedals but you know it's another
experience you're actually being part of
the Machine and you feel it and you get
feedback and bumps and it's a real
driving experience you know if you're
the type of person that just wants a
smooth thing definitely get a new one
don't get it old one, station money says
I got a 07 Ford Focus that has a
pinging sound under load when I use 87
octane using 89 there's no pinging how
can I get it to stop pinging when using
87 octane you know the problem is it's
12 years old
it's just worn with the higher octane
gas I mean you're better just to use it
because all kinds of things are going on
there it's probably that your timing
belt your timing chain is worn somewhat
the engine has a little carbon in it I
mean if you want to try my advice would
be paying mechanic like me to carbon
clean your engine because if there's
carbon buildup that increases the
compression ratio and you need to higher
test gas so it doesn't ping sometimes on
those just having them carbon cleaned
then they'll run normal on the cheaper
gas I tried that burst they make the
most logical thing to do
keoki Tara's says Scotty I changed the
sway bar links on my 08 Pontiac g5
but it still rattles when I hit bumps
what could be wrong you change the sway
bar links
those are links at the end right the
sway bar itself has to hold downs they
have rubber bushings on them check the
rubber bushings they could be worn out
too but of course realize there are a
zillion things that can make rattling
noise on a suspension system jack it up and
pull on it and hope you can duplicate the
noise now if you can't I have a video
called finding the source of car noises
watch that video and with that machine
if you don't want to buy one you're
gonna use one on eBay for like 50 60
bucks or a new one 410 bucks it will
pinpoint any sound in a car but check
the bushings first you changed the
links on the end of the bushings are
worn it'll still rattle around when you
hit bumps, res says toyota oem coolant
or third party pink
acceptable it's okay to mix different
brands of engine coolant all right well I always try to use the same thing but what's
in them is what counts and from my
experience I look around all the pink
and red coolant that I've ever found was
whole coolant hybrid organic acid
technology called the new style one that
Toyota's use and as long as it's hoat
coolant you can mix them it's perfectly
fine just like any olden days you didn't
care if you use impressed on coolant
factory GM coolant whatever as long as
it was the same type the older type
coolant was called inorganic acid
technology IAT and the new one is OAT
organic acid technology and the real
fancy ones like Toyota's are Hoat hybrid
organic acid technology as long as you
keep the same oats or hoat coolant in it
it's fine you can mix them, mike says
Scotty my 2015 Mazda 3 left front wheel
vibrates at 25 to 35 but it goes away at
a higher speed what can cause that you
got sympathetic vibrations in there
odds are to be rebalanced or the tiger
might just be shot go to a good place
where they balance tires have them check
the balancing of the tire if it's off
balance that can do that or it's a tire
itself a shot that often happens when
they're made of various belt wound
around in a circle and if the belts
break internally then they're no longer
perfectly round and at a certain speed
they'll go like mad but don't want to
get spinning faster it expands out and
becomes perfectly round again so had the tire check praise just needs to be
but if the tires crap pink albino your
tire because that will do different
things at different speeds cuz it's
rubber and can stretch and change as it
speeds up it's not like a man on a solid
steel where the speed doesn't change the
shape, Steven Mayer says Scotty are you
stoned dusted sunglasses no I'm blind as
a bat if I take them off I am blinded
and I have studio lights pointing at me
so you can see me otherwise you wouldn't be able to see me all that well I put
them on I don't look as old it's a
show business thing with sunglasses on
you don't look as old but now I'm not
stoned I haven't done that stuff since
college and that was let's see 42 years
ago that's what I graduated, game says
Scotty I have a 2010 Mazda 3 the sound
stopped
I had the Bose package mechanic told me
to replace an amp or get a new radio why
are the speakers what should I do
yes when you buy a vehicle with a fancy
stereo system and it breaks often either
to get new parts hardly anybody ever
fixes them right or to replace the whole
thing with a factory unit cost a fortune
you're better just going aftermarket I
do it in all my cars because the
aftermarket stuff these days every two
years they're they work twice as well
and it cost half as much so your carts a
few years old
you put modern stereo in sounds tons
better and it costs pretty nothing
compared to the original
so do that just get another new one
research what particular ones you want
like if you don't have an android and you want to
put an android in now if you want an
Android there's good androids out there now
for a little was doing her 50 bucks
don't buy the $80 androids they stink
I've tried them out but the more
androids that are easy to wire it I got
a video on that it's it's not that hard
to do,
so if you never want to miss another one
of my new car repair videos, remember to
ring that Bell
GM Instrument Cluster Repair and Service
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Visit us today at GMGaugeRepair.com.
How To Remove and Repair Chevy Stereo AUX Input Suburban Tahoe Silverado Sierra HHR
ScubaMoto:
Today I'm going to show you how to fix a
problem that's very common in some of the GM factory stereos.
I was hitting bumps on the road and the stereo would
start switching back and forth randomly
between auxiliary input mode, radio mode, and CD.
And it took me a while to figure out
that if you agitate the auxiliary plug
that's in the front of the unit, you can
repeat the problem.
So, I knew there must be a loose connection in there.
Unfortunately, it's a simple fix but we have to take the stereo out. So we're
going to need some pry bars to get this trim piece out.
The trim piece is held on by nine push-tabs.
And I'll show you their exact location in a second because if you can get your pry-bar close to
those push tabs, you'll reduce your
chances of damaging anything.
And now you've got eight 7mm bolts.
So we're going to use a 7mm socket.
And the way these head units are
put in is they overlap on the mounting bracket.
So you have to start from the bottom removing them.
And so that's what we're going to do. And I won't make you sit through all this. I'll go ahead and speed up a little bit.
Once you get the bolts off for the bottom head units,
we can go ahead and slide those out of the way. And now there are four more bolts holding the stereo in place.
And that's what we're going to be removing to repair.
And once we slide that out, you'll see on the back, there are just four plugs holding it in.
They're pretty straightforward. You've got
the antenna here. You've got the USB.
And then you've got the audio plugs. And
there's a little thumb release as they come out pretty easily.
And don't worry about what they look like because they only go in one way.
So when it comes time to put the thing back in, it's pretty easy.
And obviously that's your USB right
there. So once we get all four of these off,
we can put it in the shop where we
can work on it.
And the first thing we have to do is pull the face of the unit off. And there's just six little pressure tabs that are holding it in place.
Be careful with these you don't want to break them, of course, they're the only
thing holding it on.
And just a standard flat blade screwdriver can be used to unlock them.
And once you get those unlocked the
whole face of the unit will pop off.
This made life a whole lot easier for
removal of these screws.
But if you don't want to buy one or you don't have a mini socket I'll just show you.
You can certainly do it with needlenose pliers. It's just going to take a little bit longer for you.
And once you get the screws out, there's still four of the
lock tabs that are still holding the
back of the faceplate in place.
So, once you release those, you can go ahead and lift the back away and see the circuit board.
And I'm kind of holding it together because there's a couple of parts in there.
I'll show you in a minute, but this is the culprit this is your auxiliary plug right here.
And you can see that it's loose, but unfortunately we
can't see where it's soldered to the
circuit board yet. We need to pull this back off.
And don't be intimidated. These plastic pieces are just light plates.
They only go on one way so what they do
is they sit next to these little white powerful LEDs.
And these LEDs just fill these plates with light and the plates
distribute the light to multiple points
for your display.
And this is what one of the LEDs looks like. So once you get those out of the way you can see here
I'm going to give you a close-up. Now we can see where the feet of this auxiliary plug have broken.
And you can see the little cracks. Well, what's happening;
when that jiggles around, it's sending false signals to the controller to switch from
radio mode to CD mode. And, unfortunately, it makes a little tough for listening in the car.
The fix is super easy. As you can see, it's just a fast resolder of those
four feet that are holding it to the
circuit board.
And now we can test it. And, of course,
it's very strong.
So now we just have to put things back together. One little hint. There are alignment tabs here on the large knob.
You want to make sure that those are aligned.
And once they are, it will slide right into place. And, as I mentioned, the light plates only go on one way.
So that's a very straightforward installation. There are only three of them.
And because this whole controller faceplate plugs on to the head unit,
I'm going to go ahead and make sure those plugs are cleaned up too.
So, first we're going to snap the back on.
And you'll see that it just you can hear it snap into place.
So even without the small screws, it holds together fairly well.
But we're going to go ahead and put
those screws back in now as well.
I'll speed through this a little bit so you
don't have to sit through it all.
Okay, so the screws are all in and I'm going to clean up that main plug.
I'm just going to use a little bit of a dressing here on a q-tip. And I'm just going to clean the
plug and where the plug goes into the
main head unit.
It just gives a slightly better connection. Now we're ready to put that back on the head unit.
There are a lot of alignment dowels. Just make sure everything is lined up before you push it home.
And you'll hear it snap nicely.
Great! That looks good. We're ready to put
it back on the vehicle.
So again, we've got our four plugs. I won't make you sit through that.
Again those plugs only go on one way, so I fast forwarded through putting those on.
There's a large alignment dowel. Just make sure that you get that correct where it plugs into the vehicle dash.
And now you can put your screws back in. And we can speed through that a little bit as well.
You've got four screws that are holding the stereo head unit in.
And again, just like we removed it, it has to go a certain order.
So, we start from the top and work our
way down. So now we're getting the HVAC unit put in.
And now we'll get the head unit below that in place.
And we've got the trim piece of course with the nine tabs. Make sure you get the tabs lined up.
And then it just presses in place.
And we'll go ahead and give it a test.
It's in radio mode now. But you'll notice that as soon as I put the plug in,
it correctly goes to auxiliary input mode
and it plays music just fine.
Well, if this helps you guys out, please do give a thumbs up and subscribe for future videos.
And if you know anybody else trying to do this, please do share this video.
Thanks for watching.
Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive
WeberAuto:
Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
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that they were selling diesel pickup
trucks in the United States they
couldn't run correctly on American fuel
it turns out that a bunch of them had
Bosch German fuel pumps refined slightly
differently so people are saying that
it's wearing the fuel pumps out the fuel
pumps are throwing metal shavings into
the fuel injection system and destroying them
of course GM denies all this stuff I
mean they seem to deny everything they
denied that ignition switch thing where
they even changed the number of the
ignition switch replacement parts so
people wouldn't notice that the old ones
were designed wrong and then they got
sued and then they had to pay out a
bunch of money for that stuff that they
were doing and now they're claiming that
oh no that's not the case well I mean if
people are having problems what only
time is gonna tell us what happened I
think it's got the interest soon yeah
they couldn't even design their own fuel
pumps they're buying the German fuel
pumps and they didn't even probably
think before they put them in the vehicles,
jackie says Scotty what would be a
great first car for about two grand if
you want reliability get an old Corolla
or an old camry,
now for two grand its odds are it's
gonna be pretty old you don't get much
for two grand these day two grand today
is equivalent to when I was a kid to a
hundred dollar car and usually can't get
much for a $100 car, do the old trick
that I've always told people do you're
gonna pay that much money for a car get
one with a paint's peeling off they
don't have any value when the paint's
peeling off and then if you really care
go to one of those places like Earl
Scheib that'll paint a car when they're
gonna sale for 250 bucks or one that's
got bashed in founders it still works
good but when they look bad to go for a
lot less money, sing says
all wheel drive or front wheel drive or
rear wheel drive for a winter all-wheel
the wheels driving but do you really
need that much as an example my mother's
92 she still lives in Agra Falls she
drives two Toyota Corolla front-wheel
drive car in the snow doesn't you put
snow tires on they plow the roads in
Niagara Falls and she never has any
problems now if you going skiing and
mountains and stuff all-wheel drive is
much better
front-wheel drive is pretty good and of
course rear-wheel drive is the worst for snow
you spin around it turns out that
vehicles are more controllable if you
pull them rather than push them so with
front-wheel drive you got better snow
control and rear-wheel drive because
you're pulling instead of pushing but if
you live where they plow the roads you
don't care one way or another most guys
are front-wheel drive these days anyways
clam dick said why shouldn't you use
full synthetic on an engine at state
semi synthetic 97 Ford Puma you could if
you would have from the very beginning
but my advice to people and I engineers
have argued this back and forth with me
but I don't care I've seen it happen you
have an engine that you've been using
regular oil or semi synthetic oil and
you switch to full synthetic oil and
it's been using the other oil for a long
time a lot of times they'll either start
burning or leaking oil because the full
synthetic oil flows better it's thinner
and a lot of times it'll leak or burn a
lot sometimes the engines start making
noises if you start it out with it you
generally don't have that problem but I
would just leave it alone today if you
want to buy a new car and put full
synthetic go right ahead but don't
switch after it's had a hundred thousand
miles of some other type of oil,
Jacob Roger says Scotty I got a 98
Chevy s10 with a locked up 4 cylinder
can it be unlocked if your engine's
locked up it means it has internal
problems and odds are you're gonna have
to take it all apart and rebuild it or
that old clunker try to find a used
engine from a junkyard and put in it if
you want to try you can get a long
extension bar in a socket put it on the
front crank pulley bolt try turn it back
and forth and back and forth and if you
can break it loose say take the spark
plugs out and put oil in them leave the
spark plugs out with oil in the holes if
you can break it loose maybe you can get
it running again who knows I've done
that some times in the past
Donald says how often should you change
brake fluid love your channel all your
information and tips I personally have
had Toyotas that had 250,000 miles on I
never changed the brake fluid and never
had to change anything but the brake
pads the cylinders didn't leak but on
the other hand if you got some piece of
junk like a Chrysler
I changed the fluid none have them every
four or five years they're not made that
well and they will absorb a lot a lot of
a prett have problem if you really want
to see if yours is any good there are
tests that we make
do we have little machines a test for
the percentage of water in them and the
percentage of copper because a lot of
times the copper from the lines will
infiltrate into it it won't work as well
so it can be tested if you got an honest
mechanic he can tested for you tell if
it's good or not
Rossler go says Scotty my 2010 corolla
tire spin when I hit a bump okay if you
get spinning tires half the time it's
just the tires are worn out or they're
crappy tires if you buy crappy tires if
the rubber isn't soft enough it's too
hard it will actually spin you hit a
bump and hits and it spins because it's
too hard and it slips you want to have
tires that are reasonably soft so they
grip if you're watching those car races
you might think tires in those car races
they're changing them every 110 miles
cuz they're so soft and they're going so
fast that they just erased themselves
going around a track at that speed and
at that temperature
you don't want tires that last 150 miles
but you don't want really hard ones to
skip check the tires first if it's not
the tires generally it's the shocks wearing
out and then they're bouncing and
slipping after you hit a bump, Jeremy
says what do you think of body kits well
if you wanna make your car look tougher
go ahead and bolt or not it doesn't you
know generally affect how they run or
anything problem I see with them I see a
lot of kids that put body kits on these
Honda Civics they put them way too low
and then the pieces get ripped off every
time to go over a speed bump or they hit
something and pieces come flying off,
do whatever you want it's your car I
personally think hey the way they're
made is good enough for me there are
transportation devices you know and
motorcycles generally my thing with them
is naked take everything off of them
except the motor and wheels so I don't want
anybody on them at all
so if you never want to miss another one
of my new car repair videos, remember to
ring that Bell
2006 Chevy Aveo Repairs
Easy Auto Repairs:
This is my 2006 Chevy Aveo and it just
clicked over to 54,000 miles. Its still in
nice condition. We been doing a little
work on this car come on Bryant let's
show them the engine.
Our valve cover gasket went out and no
one (at the garage) told us about it. We took it to a shop
they didn't diagnose the problem correct
two times. And it was a winter time and it
was too cold for us to get out and work
on it. That's why we took it to the shop
and we drove it just a little too far
with a bad valve cover gasket and ended
up messing up the catalytic converter
and it blew out the EGR housing and it
blew the EGR tube out. We had to replace
all of that. And here lately we've been
working on the car and
we replaced these two hoses. The main
hose off the intake. This hose here they
were like $11 for both of them. And then
this hose here went bad on us. Its these
little connectors right here, they break.
And they get old and break all of these
connectors did that. And If your car you're
pressing gas on your car won't go
anywhere replace this one. You get a code
saying your intake manifolds bad. Check
this hose right here and the EGR hose (tube).
This makes the second one that we've had
to replace. And if this got cracks in it you
can smell exhaust really bad. If this
gets us crack in it over here. So your
nose can be your best friend. To tell you
if there's exhaust coming from around
this area suspect this EGR tube. But yeah
we got to run a really really good now.
hopefully will stay that way for quite a
while. And she's purring like a kitty cat.
but we all got her all back together and
we even got a new battery the other day
so hopefully were gonna be ok for
quite a while. Alright. Thanks everybody
good luck with your Aveo.
How to Replace Manual Window Regulator Chevy Silverado Work Truck 07-09
1A Auto Parts:
GM Chevy Repair Seal Beach
C. Fonseca:
Hi.
Francisco, Francisco's Automotive.
If you're watching this video, you probably
live in the city of Seal Beach, and you need
help with a Chevy, General Motors, Cadillac,
Buick, they're all one family.
One big big family.
So, before I start getting into why you should
come to Francisco's Automotive, I want to
show you my garden.
This is my garden.
I love my garden, it gives me peace.
I'm at work between 6:30 in the morning until
6 o'clock at night, so this gives me some
peace.
Now, let's talk about, I'm going to start
talking with Suburban and the Chevy.
Suburban has been around since the 60's.
I've got a customer that owns a 1965 and a
1966.
They've evolved tremendously, and in the 90's
they were quite a big... beautiful towing
vehicle.
The best, one of the best towing vehicles
because they have a long wheel base.
So I've always... it's been my favorite towing
vehicle has been Suburban.
Better than anybody else.
In 92 they came out with the third seat in
the back where you can put the, your feet
down.
In 92 you went through brakes quickly.
In 94, 95 they got a little bit better.
In 2000 the brakes lasted forever.
I had to any off a guy because of that.
They lasted over 100,000 miles.
But enough about that.
Let me give you some of my qualifications
and why you should come to my shop.
Maybe because I give you a 3 year 36,000 mile
warranty.
Maybe because I hand wash every car.
Maybe because if I keep your car overnight
I put you in a renal car at my expense.
I give you a ride home, I pick you up.
I pick up the car if I have to.
So those are just some of the things.
Also, I specialize in electrical.
I started...
I worked at a shop between 75 and 85 and the
main cars that were worked on was Volkswagen.
And I became the manager in 78.
In the early 80's I saw the need to work on
the Japanese car.
So I converted that shop from a Japanese only,
I mean a German only, Volkswagen only repair
shop... then we took on the BMW and the Mercedes.
And then I started bringing in the Japanese
cars.
So, I evolved from a German mechanic to a
Japanese mechanic.
Imagine that, overnight.
Now, I specialize in electrical.
In the 60's Volkswagen mass produced fuel
injection.
You couldn't do electrical...
I mean you couldn't do fuel injection without
knowing electrical.
You couldn't.
Or you could just be a parts replacer.
That's why I started specializing in electrical
in the 80's.
When I opened up my own shop in 1985 the main
thing I worked on was electrical and air conditioning.
General Motors, I do Ford.
I started going away from the...
I gave away BMW, Mercedes and Porsche.
I gave them, I no longer worked on them.
One of my decisions for giving them up is
Auto Works on Talbert.
Really good Mercedes, BMW, Porsche specialists.
I knew I could send all my clients there and
they would take care of them.
Auto Works on Talbert.
We'll talk later about that.
Enough about them, let's talk about me now.
Now, let's talk about the electrical part
of it.
I specialize in electrical.
Now, electrical, there's a lot to electrical.
You can he the equipment, which I do.
And I'm going to go over a little bit of the
equipment for General Motors.
This scanner right here is from the 90's and
2000's.
It's called a Master Tech.
This particular scanner is the same scanner
the dealer used.
You can do quite a bit with it.
Then they came out, they evolved to the Tech
2.
The Tech 2, more technology, the cars got
more advanced.
So, then we went to the laptop.
In, I think it's 2013, a lot of manufacturers
started going towards laptop based computers.
We no longer had to hook up to the port.
It was from the laptop, wireless.
We get our information from the cloud.
I could never figure out which cloud held
the General Motors, which cloud held Toyota.
They won't tell me.
But I'll figure it out one day.
And I don't know if we can work when there's
no clouds in the sky.
But anyways.
So, back to this.
You can have all the equipment, but you have
to have the training.
All my guys are electrically trained.
All of them.
Now, when I hire them I make sure they've
gone through electrical classes, if they haven't,
I send them to Goldenwest College, three year
course on electrical.
Then I send them to private classes.
I've even brought trainers to my shop.
I send them to a 3 day shop.
I have a fear, that I train a guy and he leaves
me.
And it's overcome by a bigger fear.
That I don't train a guy and he stays.
So all my guys are trained.
That way, if one leaves, Tom retired, you
know.
In the old days, one guy would retire and
I would go to a panic.
Now, I've got eight guys trained in electrical.
They all do different little things but, mainly
they all specialize in electrical.
You can't fix nothing without Electrical these
days.
You've got self driven cars, you've got self
parking cars, cars that'll put the brakes
on.
Automatic doors, automatic this.
Navigation.
How're you going to fix it without knowing
Electrical?
How're you going to fix it without the equipment?
I know some shops out there, and I'm not going
to mention any of them, but a lot of the shops
out there they do what they call shotgun the
job.
Let's put this part in,let's put that part
in.
Until they get it right, then they sell you
four or five parts.
Once in awhile you have to buy more than one
part, yes.
Yes you do.
But it's rare.
Now, at my shop, I'm so confident that we
repair your car correctly the first time,
that if I don't repair your car in one day,
I will rent you a car overnight.
Now, I'm going to show you my shop a little
bit.
I have a ten bay, like I said, automotive
repair shop.
So I do want you to call me with any of your
questions.
This is my shop.
It goes all the way to the back.
And, I have two lifts in the back that I work
on, i do a lot of heavy duty work for plumbers,
electricians, heavy duty trucks.
So I've got fifteen thousand pound hoists
outside that can lift those trucks up.
If you have a work truck, I will get you in
and out quickly, I know you make your living
out of it, so please give me a call with any
of the questions.
I'm writing a book on how to buy a car.
Now, if you're going to buy a car, if you're
going to sell a car, call me with any of your
questions.
Take advantage of my knowledge.
My phone number is 714-375-2661.
You know, here's a little, a little help,
a little tip.
If you're going to teach one of your kids,
one of your grandkids how to drive, the first
thing you should do is take them in a parking
lot, and make them do figure eight backwards.
Over and over again, until they learn how
to handle the car.
And then make them do what I call whoops dos.
Up and down, back and forth in the parking
lot.
Then make them go backwards.
Teach them how to handle that car.
Do not put them on the street without doing
that.
Most accidents happen in parking lots for
teenagers.
Avoid that.
Now, call me with any of your questions.
Remember, I give a 3 year warranty, I pick
up your car, I drop off your car.
So, if you live in the city of Seal Beach,
and you have any automotive...
Seal Beach, Huntington Beach, no matter where
you live.
Call me with any of your questions.
Even if your cars in another shop.
Phonenumbers 714-375-2661.
Thank you for watching the video.
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