Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive
WeberAuto:
Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching
2002-2009 Chevrolet GM Truck SUV Air Bag Steering Wheel Replacement Grant 61037 Tutorial Install
JEGS Performance:
Today, we'll be changing out a steering wheel
for a 2006 Chevy Avalanche.
You can tell the wear pattern here at the
top of the steering wheel.
So we'll go ahead and just do an upgrade for
this wheel here.
First thing we need to do is remove the negative
battery cable to prevent this airbag from
deploying.
After that, you go ahead and remove this by
inserting a small screwdriver or an Allen
wrench into a small hole here on the side,
that will release the pin.
You could do it each side individually.
You will fully release and you pull forward
to expose the connectors on the back of the
airbag.
These connectors are color-coded, so you don't
have to worry about getting them in the wrong
place.
Squeeze the two tabs and they shall release.
Don't forget to put the airbag facing upward
in a safe place.
After that you will be removing the horn wire
by pushing down on the tab, turning the plastic
piece until the wire connector comes out.
You also have this connector here which is
the one coming from your clock spring.
Once again, you can use a small screwdriver
to release this connector.
Once the connector has been released and you
have your wires here aside, now you need to
remove the center nut holding the steering
wheel.
Once you remove the center of nut, you might
be able to pull the wheel right off.
Be sure to feed your wires through the wheel
housing.
Now that you've removed the factory wheel,
you need to remove the switches.
First you need to remove the screws that are
retaining the cover on the back of the wheel,
there be one screw on each side.
Once you remove that cover, you have your
wire harness.
To remove the wire harness you need to push
on the back of the switch with a small screwdriver
until it pops out.
Now make sure that it's light pressure or
you can damage the switch.
Once the switch is out, it has a connector
of its own.
You need to squeeze the tab to remove the
switch in order to remove the wire harness.
You must also now remove these spring-loaded
tabs that allow your horn to function, by
removing these four Torx screws.
Once you have loosened the four Torx screws,
there's a spring back here that is held in
is kind of a unit.
So you loosen those up...
[00:04:18]
[Silence]
[00:04:36]
...and you're done with your factory wheel.
Now you just reinstall the parts onto your
replacement Grant wheel.
Once you have tightened all those, the next
step is to reinsert the wire harness.
Once you have now brought all your connectors
through, now you can reinsert your switches.
Now that your switches have been reinstalled,
make sure your harness connector is supported
once again by its locking pin.
Now we will reinstall the back cover.
Now that your cover has been reinstalled,
you can feed the wires back through the wheel...
[00:05:31]
[Silence]
[00:05:52]
...and recenter your wheel.
Now you'll be reinserting the horn contact
by inserting the pin
and turning counterclockwise to lock the pin
in place.
Now we'll be reinstalling the center nut.
[00:06:25]
[Silence]
[00:06:41]
Now you can reconnect your wire harness
and also your airbag.
Once again, these are color-coded to help
you not make a mistake.
[00:07:05]
[Silence]
[00:07:27]
Reinsert the airbag
and press firmly till it locks in place.
Once again, this is the reason why the wheel
was being changed because of the wear on the
steering wheel.
Looks great.
Thanks for watching.
How to Replace a Chevrolet Silverado Fender
ReveMoto - Pre-Painted Auto Body Parts:
2007-2014 Chevrolet Avalanche Suburban Tahoe LED Halo Projector Headlights Spyder Auto Installation
JEGS Performance:
Recording: Brought to you by JEGS.
Male: Welcome to Spyder Auto's projector headlight
installation guide for the Chevrolet Suburban.
Before we get started, you'll need a 7 and
10 millimeter socket ratchet and a panel popper.
Check out our Spyder projector 's change the
look of your Suburban. Start by opening the
hood. Remove the 6-10 millimeter bolts securing
the fascia along the radiator support. Now
we'll move down to the fender well. Take a
moment to apply painter's tape or masking
tape to protect the paint while we're working.
Remove the three plastic retainers securing
the fender liner. Then remove the 2-7 millimeter
bolts securing the fender liner.
Stepping underneath the bumper, remove the
10 millimeter bolts securing the fascia on
each side. Now we can go ahead and unseat
the bumper fascia. Before we remove the fascia,
don't forget to disconnect the fog lamp harnesses
if equipped. Go ahead and remove the bumper
fascia and set it aside. With the fascia removed,
we can now access the 3-10 millimeter bolts
securing the headlight. Remove the two bolts
on top and the one bolt on the side. Now go
ahead and unseat the headlight for access.
Disconnect the headlight from the main wiring
harness.
We have to transfer a few things over before
we continue. Disconnect the low beam bulb
from the harness. Then disconnect the high
beam bulb from the harness. Remove the DRL
bulb socket. Never touch the bulbs with bare
hands. Remove the turn signal bulb socket.
Remove the sidemarker socket. Now we can remove
the wiring harness from the OEM headlight.
Transfer the harness over to the new Spyder
headlight. Connect the yellow and black OEM
low beam harness to the blue and black Spyder
low beam lead. Connect the blue and black
high beam harness to the red and black high
beam lead.
Go ahead and re-install the DRL bulb socket.
Be sure to replace the gasket if it's worn.
Re-install the turn signal socket. Again,
never touch the bulbs with bare hands. Re-install
the sidemarker socket. Your beam adjuster
locations are marked here. All adjusters are
eight millimeter. For information on how to
wire the HALOs and more, check out the FAQs
Now it's time to re-install the headlight.
Reconnect the headlight harness to the main
wiring harness. Then seat the Spyder headlight
. Re-install the 3-10 millimeter bulbs securing
the headlight to the body. Before we can re-install
the fascia, be sure to reconnect the fog lamp
harnesses if equipped. Then go ahead and seat
the bumper fascia. Re-install the 6-10 millimeter
bolts securing the upper fascia. Next, replace
the fender liner. Then re-install the three
plastic retainers that secure the liner. And
then re-install the 2-7 millimeter bolts.
Now we'll step underneath the bumper to re-install
the 10 millimeter bolt securing the fascia
on each side from below. Then just close the
hood, and you're done.
Congratulations! You've fitted your Suburban
with a set of stylish projector headlights
from Spyder Auto. This is the actual cutoff
line.
Recording: Brought to you by JEGS. Fast delivery.
Your source for high performance and quality.
Delivering performance since 1960. JEGS.com.
2017 Chevrolet Colorado ZR2 - First Look | TestDriveNow
Steve Hammes New Car Reviews:
In case you haven’t noticed, off-road trucks
are a thing and they’re gaining in popularity.
No longer do you need to upfit a garden variety
pickup with aftermarket parts to accomplish
the task.
Companies like GM are providing the opportunity
to buy these serious off-road trucks straight
from the factory.
Case in point the new 2017 Colorado ZR2; a
midsize truck that comes heavily modified
to excel in a variety of challenging environments.
Chevy calls it a performance halo for the
Colorado lineup and it can be spec’d in
either extended cab with long box or crew
cab with short box.
The 3.6 V6 and 2.8-liter Duramax diesel engines
are offered.
Base MSRP is $41,000.
Tapping the motorsport-derived suspension
technology that first appeared on the Camaro
Z/28, the ZR2 uses what is called Dynamic
Suspensions Spool Valve dampers for greater
confidence and control in a wider range of
driving experiences, from technical rock crawling
to tight two-track trails to high-speed desert
running to daily driving.
Compared to a standard Colorado, the ZR2 features
a much wider track and a 2” lifted suspension.
Functional rockers have been added for better
performance over rocks and obstacles, and
the front and rear bumpers have been modified
for better off-road clearance.
Unique 17” wheels are wrapped in 31” Goodyear
Duratec off-road tires.
The front bumper of the ZR2 has tapered ends,
to increase the tire clearance when approaching
obstacles.
The bumper also integrates a thick, aluminum
skid plate protecting the radiator and engine
oil pan, while the transfer case is protected
by an additional shield.
Optionally available is a bed-mounted spare
tire carrier.
With electronic locking differentials front
and rear the ZR2 offers 9 drive configurations
with variations of 2WD, Auto and 4WD.
A new “Off-Road Mode” button allows the
anti-lock brakes, traction control, and stability
control calibrations to be tailored to different
driving conditions.
It also alters the throttle progression and
shifts calibrations to give the driver better
control and responsiveness.
The V6 makes 308 horsepower mated to an 8-speed
automatic netting 17mpg while the diesel yields
369 pound-feet of torque paired to a 6-speed
automatic transmission producing 20mpg.
The ZR2 can tow up to 5,000 pounds.
1960 Chevrolet Biscayne and Impala LS 5.3 Swap Episode 1 - Intro
ThePracticalMechanic:
hey guys welcome back I have an
interesting project coming up and this
is probably split up into multiple parts
as it is a big project and there's a lot
of stuff going on what I'm gonna be
doing is working on this 1960 Chevy
Biscayne behind me it does have an
inline six a three on the tree all of
that stuff is gonna be taken out and
we're gonna be putting a LS 5.3 liter in
here with an automatic the owner of the
vehicle doesn't drive it very much
because every time he wants to drive it
it takes a lot of work to get it going
he has to prime the carburetor a lot of
times we have to flush out the fuel
because he only drives it a couple times
a year what he's wanting to do is make a
vehicle that he can drive anytime he
wants just jump in it and go so in this
episode what I'm gonna cover is what our
plans for the vehicle are what we're
going to be doing what's getting
replaced and right now we'll jump under
the hood and take a look at what we got
so as you can see this thing is very
basic under the hood it's got the inline
six carbureted it's got heat but no AC
it does not have power brakes right
there that little guy is the master
cylinder it has a single line output
that splits to the front in the rear now
this engine does run and drive once you
get it going but it's been sitting for a
few years so we would have to flush the
fuel system out possibly rebuild the
carburetor again because that's been
several years charge up the battery
double check the fluids and we can get
this thing back on the road but that's
nowhere nearly as easy as jumping in it
anytime you want turning the key and
driving it so the main thing under the
hood is all of this stuff is coming out
it's going to be replaced with the 5.3
liter Chevy LS engine out of a two wheel
drive truck behind that engine we're
gonna be putting the 4l60e
since we're not boosting it and we're
not cranking up the horsepower the 4l60e
is plenty strong enough and hopefully we
won't have to do any modifications to
the tunnel where the transmission sits
If you do the 4L80e you have to cut it out
and weld in a taller tunnel
Over here we have the Generator and
the voltage regulator all of that stuff
will be coming out because we're gonna
be running the LS accessories with a
nice big alternator to power up
everything now this is a 12-volt car so
we don't have to convert anything there
we are going to be adding power steering
so we're gonna have to change this
gearbox the control arm bushings are all
shot if we have that in the budget we're
going to rebuild the front end we are
going to be adding a brake booster and a
new master cylinder to get power brakes
onto the vehicle not sure if we're gonna
leave the battery here or not we may
relocate it the radiator is going to be
replaced with a aluminum radiator with
electric cooling fans that's it under
the hood let's get the vehicle up in the
air and take a look underneath this
vehicle has four wheel drum brakes we
are going to be converting to front disc
which means these fourteen inch tires
and wheels are gonna have to go.
I believe the minimum for disc brakes is
a fifteen inch wheel but I'm not sure if
the customer is gonna want to go bigger
than that and you can see how long this
thing's actually been sitting the tires
are dry rotted pretty bad. Now this
vehicle does have an X-frame which
makes a few things a little more
difficult the drive shaft is in the
middle of this tunnel right here and
there's a carrier bearing right in the
middle we will have to get a new drive
shaft built because the other
transmission is going to be a lot longer
than this one this one here is a really
tiny transmission the 4l60e is going to
be quite a bit longer
not exactly sure how long but we'll have
to take this driveshaft out send it to
the driveline shop and get shortened.
Now this factory exhaust only comes out to
one side I believe this is 2-inch it
follows the x frame it goes up and over
the axle and dumps out right behind the
rear tire we're probably going to be
running the exhaust the same way only
it's going to be dual exhaust only we're
probably going to run two and a half
inch and we haven't decided if we're
going to build the exhaust or buy a V8
exhaust kit that is pre bent and then
modify it to fit the LS motor now our
current plans are to leave this rear end
if we have issues with it then we'll
have to upgrade but because of the type
of suspension this has it'll be easier
if we just leave this alone and all the
way in the back here we have the gas
tank now you can see this gas tanks been
leaking for a while it's got a pretty
nasty dent in it which isn't a big deal
because we're gonna replace this with a
slightly larger gas tank that is
manufactured to put an electric fuel
pump in the new tank will have a new
sending unit and fuel pump assembly I
believe the new unit is also an inch
lower so he'll have to watch it so I'm
going to stop right here for today if
you want to see the rest of this project
make sure to subscribe I click that bell
so you're notified of future videos the
next video in the series will probably
be me removing this engine transmission
cutting out the exhaust everything I
don't need that's coming out of the
vehicle because the first step is going
to be starting with a clean slate we're
gonna get that engine and stuff out of
there we're going to detail the engine
bay paint it up so everything looks good
once we get that new engine in there now
I already have an engine we're gonna
have to do wiring harness modifications
to that plus there's going to be some
maintenance stuff that we want to do
while that engines out of the vehicle
because it'll be a lot easier doing it
out of the vehicle then
the vehicle thanks for watching and I
hope to see you guys next time
"Cheerful Retro Music"
Thanks For watching. Subscribe, Share, Comment.
Spotlight - CO2! - 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD on Hostile Havoc 22x14's!!!
Custom Offsets:
1999-2006 Chevrolet Silverado Suburban Tahoe LED Halo Projector Headlights Spyder Auto Installation
JEGS Performance:
Announcer: Brought to you by Jegs.
Man: Welcome to Spyder Auto's Projector Headlight
installation guide for the Chevrolet Suburban.
No tools are required for this install. Check
out how Spyder projectors change the look
of your Suburban. Start by opening the hood.
You'll need to unlock and remove the two retainer
stakes that secure the headlight to the body.
Rotate the stake out of the holder, then just
pull up to free it. With the stakes removed,
now we can unseat the headlight. Disconnect
the high beam harness, then disconnect the
low-beam harness.
We have to transfer a few things before we
continue. Take a look at the back side of
your OEM headlight. Remove the high beam bulb
from the OEM headlight. Never touch exposed
bulbs with bare hands. Inspect the bulb gasket
before we transfer it over. Replace the gasket
if it's worn.
Now locate your Spyder headlight. Take a look
at its back side. Install the high beam bulb
into your Spyder headlight. These are your
headlight beam adjusters locations. They are
eight millimeter. For information on how to
wire the HALOs and more, check out the FAQs
playlist on the Spyder Auto YouTube channel.
Now we're ready to install our Spyder headlight.
Reconnect the high beam harness, then reconnect
the low beam harness. Then go ahead and seat
the Spyder headlight, taking care not to pinch
the harness between the headlight and the
body. Now we'll reinstall the two retainer
stakes to secure the headlight.
Then just close the hood, and you're done.
Congratulations, you've fitted your Suburban
with a set of stylish projector headlights
from Spyder Auto. This is the actual projector
cutoff line.
Announcer: Brought to you by Jegs. Fast delivery.
Your source for high performance and quality.
Delivering performance since 1960. Jegs.com
How To Replace Hub Assembly 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD
Car Addict Garage:
etrailer | Air Lift Replacement Front Air Spring Installation - 1989 Chevrolet P Series
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