Why Chevrolet Spin Phase Out

How Chevrolet Started, Grew & Became $11.5 Billion Company

Success Secrets TV:

How Chevrolet Started, Grew & Became $11.5
Billion Company
The name Chevrolet originated from a Swiss-born
American racer Louis-Joseph Chevrolet, who
founded his company with William Durant in
1911, stayed for four years and then left
his own company to Durant in 1915.
The Chevrolet Company previously called the
Chevrolet Division of General Motors Company
and simply called the Chevy is the automobile
department of General Motors, a manufacturing
company in the United States.
How Chevrolet Began
Twenty years before Chevrolet, Durant was
the founder of a successful Durant-Dort Carriage
Company which manufactured horse-drawn vehicles.
And so Durant wouldn't even touch a car with
a ten-foot pole, let alone allow his daughter
to ride in what he called, "loud and dangerous
horseless carriages."
But as time passed he realized that there
were more cars than carriages on the American
streets; an experience that did not settle
well with the relatively tentative public.
As the government regulated cars for their
safety, Durant had other ideas.
Why not improve the security of these cars
instead?
In 1904, Durant approached a struggling Buick
Motor Company and became its controlling investor.
Within a span of four years, Durant demonstrated
his salesman attitude and transformed Buick
into a leading automobile name amongst the
likes of Ford, Oldsmobile, and Cadillac.
For Durant, however, it was only the start.
Durant figured he could further improve his
odds in the industry if he built a holding
company that would control several automobile
divisions, with each division manufacturing
their own car.
With the Buick's outstanding profits, Durant
had sufficient capital to found the General
Motors Company in 1908.
A year later, General Motors acquired several
car brands like Buick, Oldsmobile, Cadillac,
Elmore, and others.
Unfortunately,Durant got so carried away in
his "automobile acquisition crusade" that
GM suffered cash shortage with their sales
losing to Ford's.
And so, in 1910, General Motors showed Durant
the exit door.
But Durant did not give up.
Having regained his bearings, he reunited
with an old colleague from the days of the
Buick motor company, Louis-Joseph Chevrolet.
Durant knew the Swiss-born American as a man
whose competency for car mechanics matched
his passion for racing.
In 1909, Louis had participated in the Giant
Despair Hillclimb.
An oddly apt name, considering the Hillclimb
race was less about the racers themselves
and more about test-driving the competing
car brands they drove.
Therefore, when Durant offered a chance to
build more automobiles, Louis couldn't resist
signing his name on the dotted line alongside
Durant's.
In 1911, Louis co-founded the Chevrolet Motor
Company with Durant.
Durant used Louis’ racing status as a means
of building a motor company, and his way of
getting back at General Motors.
The first Chevrolet car, the Series C Classic
Six was designed by Etienne Planche with directions
by Louis.
The prototype was ready before the company
was incorporated even though the production
didn’t happen until 1913 where it was introduced
at an auto show in New York.
In 1914, Chevrolet redesigned its logo.
And so a "bowtie emblem" logo was used on
Chevrolet’s first produced cars in 1914:
the Chevrolet H series and L series models.
That same year, Durant and Louis argued about
their differing intentions for Chevrolet’s
future car designs.
Durant wanted simple and affordable cars that
would surpass those of Fords.
On the other hand, Louis preferred playing
it fast and loose, with luxury or racing cars.
These differences split these two associates
and Louis sold his shares of the company to
Durant.
Now alone at the helm, Durant was able to
focus on his next winning car design.
He achieved this in 1916 when the cheaper
Chevrolet Series 490 finally outpaced Ford
in sales and cemented Chevrolet’s place
among the big automobile names.
To say Chevrolet made huge profits during
this period would be a severe understatement.
Durant revisited General Motors as a controlling
investor, purchasing their stocks, which gave
him the leverage to launching himself into
leading General Motors once more.
By 1917, Durant had become the president of
General Motors.
All was right, now that Durant's "big automobile"
dream was back on track.
And of course, his first directive was merging
the highly successful Chevrolet into the parent
company General Motors as a separate division.
How Chevrolet Grew
In 1918, Chevrolet launched a new V8 powered
model, the Series D for open two-seat cars
and the touring cars that could seat 5 passengers.
These models didn't sell well though and they
were scrapped by the next year.
Given Chevrolet's successful track record
in the market, General Motors rebranded and
sold their commercial grade cars and trucks
as Chevrolet with similar appearances with
the Chevrolet’s vehicles in 1919 from Chevrolet
factories located in Flint, Michigan.
The automobile company built several branch
assembly plants in New York, Ohio, Missouri,
California, Texas, and Canada.
Somewhere between the 1920s and 1940s, Chevrolet
would see Durant's vision for "producing simple
and affordable cars" come true.
In fact, Chevrolet, Ford and Plymouth were
known to Americans as "the low priced three".
During this period, one of Chevrolet's most
notable cars was the Stovebolt introduced
in 1929, which was tag-lined "a six for the
price of four".
This and several generations of the car model
blew away the competition of Ford and Plymouth.
In 1953, the Chevy Corvette, a sport’s car
with two seats and a fiberglass body debuted
to become the first mass-produced sports car
in the United States, championing the "America's
Sports Car" appeal.
The appeal of the Corvette and other Chevrolet
passenger cars would be enhanced with the
first-time introduction of Rochester Ramjet
fuel-injection engine as a high-performance
option for the price of $484.
The Chevrolet small block V8 car design made
its debut in 1955 and remained in circulation
longer than other mass produced engines around
the world.
Modifications to the V8 engine including the
aluminum block and heads, the electronic engine
management and the port fuel injection gave
birth to the designs in production today.
In 1958, Chevrolet introduced the Impala series,
which went on to become one of the best-selling
American cars in history experiencing popularity
during the 60s and 70s.
The parent company General Motors introduced
Chevrolet to Europe in 2005.
With rebranded cars manufactured from the
General Motors branch in Korea acquired Daewoo
Motors.
The economic depression between 2007 and 2010
hit Chevrolet hard.
But the road to recovery began in 2010 with
the introduction of fuel-efficient cars and
trucks to compete with foreign automobile
manufacturers.
Within the same year, Chevrolet introduced
the plug-in hybrid electric vehicles, Chevrolet
Volt in America, which was sold under the
name Opel/Vauxhall Ampera throughout Europe
with a record 5,268 units soldand became the
world's best-selling plug-in hybrid electric
vehicle (PHEV) car in 2012, winning the award
for the North American Car of the Year, European
Car of the Year and World Green of the Year.
The series was then named the combined Volt/Ampera
that was sold across the world.
It exceeded the 100,000 unit sales milestone
in late 2005 and eleven years later the Volt
family of vehicles had become the world's
best-selling plug-in hybrid as well as the
third best selling electric car after the
Tesla Model S and the Nissan Leaf cars.
In 2011, Chevrolet set a global sales record
of 4.76 million vehicles sold worldwide
In late 2013, the Chevy brand was withdrawn
from Europe by General Motors leaving the
Corvette and Camero lines.
In 2016, Chevrolet unveiled the first affordable
mass-produced all-electric car the Chevrolet
Bolt EV.
This car too has won several awards.
Where Chevrolet Is Today
Chevrolet now has its headquarters in Detroit,
Michigan, and operates throughout 140 countries
in North and South America, Asia, Australia,
South Africa, and Europe with over two million
vehicles sold annually in the US alone and
a brand value of $11.5 billion.
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Chevrolet

Audiopedia:

Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive

WeberAuto:

Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching

CLASSIC 1937 CHEVROLET VIDEO 🏁 Chevy Factory Differential Explanation! (Company Archive Footage)

HOT ROD 100:

HOT ROD 100 Presents...
1937 Chevrolet Differential
Official Instructional Video
you
now
formations like these require long hours
of intensive drilling and careful
judging when the truck goes around the
corner the writers on the outside of the
turn have to adjust their speed to keep
even with the riders on the inside the
man on the outside has to ride a lot
farther and a lot faster in order to
keep up with the parade the outside
wheels must spin faster than the wheels
on the inside because they have a
greater distance to travel in the same
length of time when a wagon turns a
corner the wheels can travel at
different speeds because each one can
turn freely on the axles and in the
early automobiles the rear wheels turn
separately and only one wheel was
connected to the engine but when only
one wheel was driven by the engine it
had to do all the work and it couldn't
get a good enough grip on the road to do
its job properly so the one wheel drive
was soon out of date but if two wheels
are locked on an axle so that they are
not free to turn separately one or the
other has to slide so engineers had to
find a way to connect both rear wheels
to the engine without sliding and
slipping on turns the device which makes
this possible is a part of the rear axle
it is called the differential because it
can drive the rear wheels at different
speeds the differential looks
complicated but once we understand its
principle it is amazingly simple these
two wheels are mounted on separate axles
and supported by a frame so that they
can revolve freely at different speeds
let's fasten a spoke on the inner end of
each axle so that by turning the spokes
we can turn each wheel separately
with a bar or crosspiece we can turn
both wheels in the same direction at the
same rate of speed let's get something
to hold this bar in place so that it
will press against a spose notice that
this support is not locked to the axle
it turns freely now we can spin the
wheels by rotating the support this is
fine
as long as both wheels are able to turn
at the same speed but let's see what
happens when we go around the corner
with this arrangement we cannot drive
one wheel faster than the other and if
we stop one wheel the other wheel won't
budge let's put this bar on a pivot so
that it can swing in either direction
now the bar can still turn both wheels
at the same speed and because it pivots
it lets one wheel turn even when the
other is stopped but if turned too far
the bar will swing around until it won't
drive the spokes that turn we need
another crossbar and more spokes to
carry on the job when we stop one wheel
the crossbars will continue to push the
spokes of the freewheel around as long
as both wheels are free to turn the bars
do not swing on their pivot and the
wheels move at the same speed now we
have the working principles of a
differential to adapt the model for use
in an automobile we will have to make a
few changes in order to reduce the jerky
action caused by wide spaces between the
spokes we will put in more spokes
further filling in the spaces between
the spokes gives steadier more
continuous action and changing the shape
gives firm constant contact now we can
make the gears thicker and stronger and
we have differential gears the edges are
cut so that they will fit together more
smoothly and silently and another gear
is added to share the work of driving
the axles the principle is the same in
order to turn the support and drive the
wheels we can fasten a large gear here
connected by a smaller gear to a source
of power
notice that the power is connected to
the differential at the center line we
can make our model more compact by
moving the gears closer together when we
put our differential in an automobile we
have to leave room for the driveshaft
which carries the power from the engine
we may build the floor of the car
above the driveshaft but if we do we
won't have much room inside unless we
make the top of the car high - of course
we could lower the floor and ceiling but
the driveshaft would be higher than the
floor this would have disadvantages a
shaft in the middle of the floor of an
automobile would be inconvenient for
passengers and would be awkward for
carrying luggage today engineers have
found a way to make the car roomier and
closer to the road without a clumsy
shaft above the floor the drive shaft
from the engine to the differential is
lowered out of the way and the drive
shaft is connected to the rear axle at
the bottom the new low Center Drive
makes the rear axle quieter stronger and
more durable because it gives better
smoother contact between the gears the
automobile of today with the low Center
drive is stronger and more rugged every
part of the rear axle has been built to
withstand strains far greater than it
will ever meet on the straightaway more
around the corner
you

Chevy Suburban - Everything You Need to Know | Up to Speed

Donut Media:

(tires squealing)
- Bad guys love 'em,
cartels gots ta have 'em,
and of course you can't forget
that they're loved by the biggest,
baddest authority figures
of them all, moms.
Biggie got shot in one.
This is everything you need to know
to get up to speed on the Chevy Suburban.
(electronic music)
Suburban is longest lasting moniker
in American automotive history.
It's kinda like if Ford
still had a Model T.
I'll do my best breeze by the early,
low horsepower bits that happened
before your grand-pappy was just a glimmer
in your grandad's eyes,
but I'm not gonna skip it.
It was the early 30's,
and the middle of the US
had a big bowl of dust on its hands.
From 1930 to 1934, Chevy was
quietly putting station wagon
bodies on their full size
truck frames for private use.
Private, meaning outfits
like the National Guard,
and the US Military, you
ever heard about 'em?
Support the Troops.
As these big, long, covered
trucks are coming off the line,
some dude at Chevy was like,
these things are pretty useful,
maybe we could make one for the public.
Some sort of backwoods,
family and possession
transport vehicle.
Why not call it the Suburban Carryall.
My dude, Brad, that is why
they call you the thesaurus.
Dude, thank you, I love that nick name.
The Suburban Carryall had
its Chevy Truck papa's
rugged full size frame,
and from its station wagon
mama it got a sleek body.
Windows, and plenty of seats,
and it came out in 1935.
You may know that GM was in
the habit of sharing designs
between their companies back in the day,
and the boys over at GMC where like,
hey, can we borrow your backwoods,
family and possession transport vehicle?
And Chevy was like, sure.
So in 1937 both GMC and Chevrolet,
had the same care with the same name.
During Dub-Dub two, Suburbans were used
as military transport vehicles,
and soldiers got to likin' 'em.
So after all that warin' over seas,
GIs were coming home buying
houses and making babies.
A lot of them wanted to load
those families into the big
Suburbans they got used to in the war,
so Chevy gave 'em what they wanted,
with the third gen Suburban in 1947.
Look at those curve
fenders and sweeping lines.
This gen Suburban was the
inspiration for the 2011 HHR.
The greatest looking car of all time.
Through the 50s and 60s
the Suburban got beefier,
and more capable just like my grandpa,
but it also had some strong competish.
Jeep and the Ford Bronco started to siphon
some business from the Burban,
so GM responded by making
it more off-road capable.
But they were faced with a decision.
Would they slim down the
Suburban so it can compete
with the new brood of
off-road fun machines?
No, let's make it bigger!
So they did.
The 'Burban got over
a foot longer in 1967.
Sticking to their guns worked.
Just 6200 Suburbans were produced in 1967
and by 72 that number
had grown to over 27,000.
As is the custom with such great sales,
Chevy and GMC decided it was
time for a new generation
of the 'Burban, and it
would be the best yet.
- (Announcer) Chevy
Suburban, tough like a truck,
smooth like a wagon.
- The seventh gen
Suburban, debuted in 1973
and would last for almost 20 years.
This is the Suburban that would define
Suburbans for most Americans.
When it came out, you could
get it with the legendary
Chevy small blocks, or the
beefilicious 454 under the hood.
It was tall and aggressive and screamed,
I know what the heck I'm
doin', now get the frick
out of my way, you fence!
(Wilhelm screaming)
By the mid 80s, it was the Jeep Cherokee
and Toyota 4Runner that
were changing the game,
and the term SUV first entered
the automotive lexicon.
Lucky for Chevy, the
hardy, capable Suburban,
was ahead of the game.
By 1984, Chevy and GMC were
cranking out almost 65,000
Suburbans a year.
Remember, aside from small changes,
this model had already
been out for over a decade.
The world could not get
enough of this over sized,
outdoorsy, sports vehicle people hauler.
After 20 years it was time for a new look.
And GM handed the task
to their establish designer Chuck Jordan.
(jazz music)
I love doin' up the speed
episodes on American cars,
because I know how to
say everybody's name,
Chuck was known to design
cars that embodied the era
in which they were designed.
This '59 Caddy, the Buick
Reatta, this Oldsmobile 98.
He'd later do the Chevy Cavalier.
All of them competent designs,
but none of them very exciting.
Why choose someone so vanilla?
Well military and special
forces loved the Suburban,
for many reasons, but
one of those reasons,
is that it's not flashy.
It blends in as much as something
can, as massive as it is.
But when you need to stand out,
Caravan four more black 'Burbans,
and no body is gettin' in your way.
If you see a hoard of black Suburbans,
you know something is going down.
These vehicles are also reliable,
and easy to work on, all over the globe,
thanks, in part, to GM's world
wide parts supplier network.
They're everywhere and they're durable.
There are stories of dudes driving
through hostile territories and
taking fire in these things,
but making it safely out in a Suburban
riddled with bullet holes.
You know who else likes being badass
and traveling in an entourage?
Celebrities.
The beefy Suburbans
came with luxury options
and had plenty of room inside
for friends and business partners.
Biggie Smalls was in one when he got shot.
Rest in Peace big poppa.
He used to love when I called him that.
In 2000, GMC figured
it was time to rebrand
their Suburban as the
much fancier Yukon XL,
and the Chevy Suburban soldiered on
as though nothing had happened.
It did start to get a little
more comfortable to drive
when it was loaded up with high tech,
load leveling auto ride, and
rear leveling suspension.
Chevy leaned into the
off-road rugged image,
and unveiled the legendary
Z71 package in 2001,
which featured a front skid
plate, off roadin' tires,
a unique grill, runnin' boards,
and Z71 stamped everywhere!
They also had available Quadrasteer,
which means all four wheels steer,
which helps when your
vehicle is over 18 feet long.
And families love Suburbans.
They're not for everyone
but we all had a friend
whose mom or dad hauled
them around in a Suburban.
2007's 10th generation
Suburban took inspiration
from the Tahoe and was redesigned
with more modern, less boxy styling.
It had a badass, more aerodynamic shape,
and a steeply raked windshield angel.
It also got even bigger,
growing almost half a foot in length.
In February 2010, for the
Suburban's 75th birthday,
Chevy, of course, unveiled
the 75th anniversary
trim level, the Diamond Edition.
Chevy was embracing the luxury SUV market
and decided they would
absolutely kill it with this one.
This big, beefy beauty had
white diamond exterior paint.
It had standard 20 inch
chrome clad wheels.
Remote starting, adjustable pedals,
and leather upholstery with
heated slash cooled front seats.
Yes, Hip Hop moguls, and special ops
would still drive their
blacked out Suburbans,
but now Mariah Carey could have one too.
(James singing)
That brings us all the way to the current,
11th generation Chevrolet Suburban,
which was introduced to
public in September 2013.
Special edition, 11th gen Suburbans
abound the Texas Edition.
A little thank you to the lone star state
'cause more Suburbans are sold
in Texas then anywhere else.
Texas Edition featured a trailer package.
All them suspension
goodies, all wheel drive,
big old wheels, and of course,
an exclusive Texas Edition badge.
What could be cooler than Texas Edintion?
Only the most badass
special ops inspired vehicle
of 'em all, the 2017 Chevy Suburban!
Midnight Edition.
I want you guys to do an
exercise with me right now.
Close your eyes, imagine
the blackest black
you can think of, you got it?
The Midnight Edition is blacker!
Windows, grills, wheels, and
even the bow tie is black.
It's so badass!
The secret service and
spies must love this thing!
Summer of 2019 will bring us the fastest,
and most furious street themed
suburban to date, the RST.
RST stands for Rally Sport
Truck, think about that.
A Rally Sport Suburban?
The Suburban is already
unreal for it's size.
Now listen to what's in the RST.
6.2L V8 makin', 420 buff horses,
it's got magnetic ride control
with variable performance settings,
and a 10 speed automatic transmission.
Borla makes the exhaust,
and it comes out of the fricken side!
And it's also got Brembos,
because Brembos on everything.
And if 420 ain't your lucky number,
a specialty vehicle
engineering out of New Jersey
says they've perfected a tuning kit
that'll bump your beefy
'burbin to 1,000 horsepower.
That's buff horse power!
Over 10 decades, and 11
generations of vehicles,
four generations of humans,
have learned the Suburban
is unrivaled in a class it created.
And I wouldn't be surprised
if it keeps kickin',
for another century!
(tires squealing)
Thanks for watching Up to Speed,
every Thursday 'til the day I die,
new episode on Donut.
Smash that like button, smash
that like button, smash it!
This show is a history show,
but if you want me to actually,
you want to see me actually
interact with the cars,
check out my new show Bumper to Bumper.
I host it, it's just as funny as this one,
except there's cool cars in it.

CHEVROLET ENGINEERING 🏁 Transmissions & Synchromesh (1936 Original Company Documentary)

HOT ROD 100:

HOT ROD 100 Presents...
Chevrolet Synchromesh
(Company Archive Footage)
meet mr. Archimedes of ancient Greece
long ago our key said give me a lever
long enough and I can move the world
what Archimedes meant was that the power
of a lever is practically unlimited
today almost everyone uses some form of
lever in his daily work the familiar can
opener is a lever with a sharp cutting
edge the playground seesaw is just a
simple lever - it takes a lot of force
to start a freight car moving yet the
railroad man can start the heaviest
freight cars easily with a pinch bar a
powerful lever which turns the wheel
tough luck old boy here's a place where
a lever comes in mighty handy let's take
the simplest kind of lever a rigid bar
working on a fixed support called a
fulcrum one end of this lever is twice
as long as the other let's put a
10-pound weight on this end and now
we'll put half as much weight on this
end five pounds balanced ten if we have
25 pounds to lift we just use a longer
lever the five pounds will now balance
five times as much let's raise the lever
in the air change its shape a little and
we have a crank or we can add a second
lever and have a double crank now the
short arm moves 1/4 the distance but we
get four times the force if we want
continuous motion
we need more arms now we have levers
that turn the larger paddle wheel makes
fewer turns but it delivers more force a
paddle wheel is nothing but a
never-ending series of levers we can
make the wheel stronger and lessen
friction where the wheels touch each
other by rounding off the edges and
shaping them into teeth that will slide
in and out smoothly now the power flows
smoothly and continuously
through spinning leverage of gear wheels
gears are made in many kinds and many
sizes little gears big gears worm gears
bevel gears and even lopsided gears over
a hundred million gears are spinning
over the roads and the transmissions of
our automobiles the transmission is
located right at the bottom of the gear
shift lever let's start from scratch and
put together a model of the gears that
we shift in our motor car the shaft on
the Left comes from the engine the shaft
on the right carries the power back to
the rear wheels to connect these two
with gears we'll need another shaft
known as a counter shaft these two gears
carry the power from the engine shaft to
the counter shaft and are always
connected or in mesh this gear on the
drive shaft going to the wheels is free
to turn around the shaft we'll put it in
mesh with another gear on the counter
shaft these gears are always in May and
keep turning while the engine is running
to switch from one set of gears to
another our transmission needs a short
shaft like this known as a clutch sleeve
it cannot turn on the drive shaft but it
is free to slide back and forth on the
sleeve will not a large gear which we
can shift back and forth to mesh with
the small gear in the middle of the
counter shaft
we are now in neutral the gears that are
always in mesh are turning over with the
engine but the shaft to the rear wheels
is standing still a three thousand pound
automobile takes a lot of force to start
so in low speed we get the greatest
leverage by letting the smallest gear on
the counter shaft turn the largest gear
on the drive shaft the engine on this
model is running at a constant speed of
90 revolutions a minute with low gears
in mesh the rear wheel is turning at 30
revolutions a minute about a third the
speed of the engine but with three times
the force the power is going through
these gears in the transmission
after we've started the car rolling we
want fast pickup so we shift into second
by sliding the sleeve backward to mesh
with this gear on the shaft to the rear
wheels the wheel is now turning at 60
revolutions a minute and the power flows
through these gears for higher speeds we
let the power go directly to the rear
wheels we shift the sleeve forward so
that it meshes with the shaft from the
engine the power travels straight from
the engine to the drive shaft now the
shaft to the wheels is turning at 90
revolutions a minute the same speed as
the engine but here's a problem an
automobile must be able to go backward
as well as forward so we add one more
set of gears to reverse the shaft to the
rear wheels with the gears shifted into
reverse the power travels through the
transmission in a path like this we now
have three sets of spinning levers for
going forward at one for Reverse with a
gear shift lever we can shift to any set
of gears we wish but with all these
spinning levers in the transmission came
noise and where experts could shift
gears quietly by careful timing of the
gear shift and the engine speeds but
most of us made plenty of noise until
new engineering developments made
possible a long series of improvements
that followed when we shifted gears we
got a clash because the gears were not
running at the same speed in other words
not synchronized so engineers set to
work to develop a synchronizer the
synchronizer works like a cork twisted
into the top of a bottle the cork will
turn until it is so tight that the
bottle turns with it synchro mesh
works the same way when we shift into
second or hi the synchronizer brings the
gears to the same speed before they come
together the drums won't let the gear
shift unless they are turning at the
same speed when the gears come together
there is no clash and the shift is made
quietly and easily in the transmission
of the up-to-date automobile we have a
powerful low gear to give us a strong
spinning leverage in starting a fast
turning motor must set the weight of the
car in motion in second speed we can
change leverage to get going fast at the
same engine speed with the leverage of
third gear power goes directly to the
rear wheels and we can go as fast as we
want now every driver can shift gears at
any time regardless of speed here is a
hill that will give us a real chance to
see how smoothly and reliably our
spinning levers work in our automobile
transmission this driver is going to let
her car gain a speed of 60 miles an hour
down the hill
then she will shift into second speed
and bring her card easily and safely
under control before it reaches the
bottom of the hill

Why Not to Buy a Chevy with Traction Control

Scotty Kilmer:

one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
today I'm going to show you why you
might not want to buy a GM product with
traction control on it, now this van only
has 45,000 miles on it, but the traction
control light is coming on, which means
that the traction control system has a
problem and we've got to figure out what
it is, now when I hook up my little scan
tool it shows that it has CL 131 which
is traction control system problem with
a pressure system, but in order to
analyze and actually repair the problem,
I need a much fancier scan tool like
this ODC encore, to get into that complex
data, then we select the ABS system and
we basically have to check all these
different data systems, to figure out
what's wrong, which consists of this data
and all this data and then checking
through the code assist is library, it
suggests the brake pressure modulator
valve is bad, and you can even look it up
on google, which also has articles that
suggest the brake modular valve
assembly is bad, and unfortunately the
brake modular valve is built into the
entire modulated assembly, which has to
be replaced, as a unit, and not only is
this unit hard to replace, you saw
those lines that have to be taken off
and the air bled out, but that unit cost
898 dollars, plus on this model, nobody
else can get them, it's a dealer only
item, so you got no choice of where to
buy it from, because they fail quite
often on these things and if you try to
use one from a junkyard
odds are, it either wouldn't work or would
break soon after, you put it on, now with
only 40 something thousand miles on the
car, I think it's kind of a shame that
that system broke down already,
but with the use of such complex
electronics, it doesn't surprise me at
all that they do break down, they're so
complicated, they have so many moving
parts, they're computer-controlled, when
they do break, man they can often cost a
fortune to repair, now it's one thing if
those complicated systems don't break
down, my wife had
a Toyota Cressida, it was 28 years old and
it still had a working system we never
had to do anything to it, but if you're
thinking about buying a GM vehicle, it
was an option on this one, get the one
that doesn't have that option, stay away
from their complex electronics on them,
because when they break down they cost a
ton, but on the positive side, when they
do break down, they go back to failsafe
non traction control and they just drive
like a normal car, so why not just buy
the normal car in the first place, and
remember if you have car questions just
visit the Scotty Kilmer channel

Why Chevy Is Radically Changing The Corvette

CNBC:

The Corvette is widely regarded
as America's sports car.
The Chevrolet Corvette has been in production
since 1953, making it one of
the longest running production
vehicles in history.
Of course, it's also one that
has occasionally risked the axe, especially
in times of stress for
Chevrolet parent General Motors.
In spite of that, the car has endured
and it is about to undergo its
biggest change in history.
The Corvette is becoming a mid-engine sports car
and it is one of a small
number of mid-engine sports cars that can
be bought for less than six
figures.
GM President Mark Reuss told the crowd
at the Corvettes unveiling that the
car would start at less than 60
thousand dollars and gasps could be heard
from the audience to
understand what this means.
It is important to take
a look at Corvette's history.
The first Corvette was designed
by legendary General Motors designer
Harley Earl.
Earl saw that American soldiers returning
from Europe after World War 2
had gone crazy for European sports cars,
and he wanted to create an
American competitor.
GM built 300 of the first Corvettes
in 1953, while the initial Corvette
was a virtual masterpiece
of automotive design.
The car's performance was mediocre.
GM engineers had put the car together
from materials the company had on
hand. Its six-cylinder engine lacked the
horsepower needed to match the
car's sleek looks.
The first Corvette sold poorly and was
being outsold several times over by
competitors such as
the Ford Thunderbird.
Just a few years after its creation,
the Corvette was already in danger of
being discontinued.
But the car had caught the attention
of a Russian born Belgian immigrant
engineer and race car driver named Zora
Arkus-Duntov, who soon got a job
with GM and became the
Corvettes first chief engineer.
Arkus-Duntov is credited with pushing
for a sportier, higher performing
Corvette. Over time, the car grew a
reputation as a working man's answer
to high end Italian and German supercars
and developed a proud and devoted
following apart from its lower price.
It also, over time, became known for
keeping its engine in the front of
the car. Like many conventional cars.
But the performance and handling of
a mirror engine layout is often
favored among makers of super cars
and high end sports cars.
Arkus-Duntov
had pressed his bosses to make a
mid-engine Corvette, and for years the
company experimented with designs.
You know, creating a car with the
drive train centralized in the middle of
the vehicle helps
centralize the mass.
When you do that, you end up with
more equal weight between the front and
rear axles and on the front tires.
Essentially, that makes the car more
stable, even at higher speeds and
even around sharper corners,
braking and acceleration.
Everything you're doing in the car especially
is a performance car is more
stable, more balanced when you have
mass centralised engine design over
time.
Chevrolet developed several different iterations
of what was called the
Chevrolet Experimental Research
Vehicle or CERV.
These cars were outfitted with
mid-engine configurations too, some of
which Arkus-Duntov himself held patents, but
none of the designs ever made
it to production, even as high
end performance vehicles from other
manufacturers routinely demonstrated the
advantages of the mid-engine
layout.
That Corvette was able to compete with
many far more expensive cars was
impressive that it did so while keeping
its engine in the front of the
car. For many of its fans added to
its charm, in some ways, the car
appeared to succeed in
spite of itself.
I think that when we talk about Corvette
and the idea that it stayed true
for so long to its heritage front engine,
rear drive and over time, as we
saw more mid-engine cars coming out,
performance levels getting higher and
higher.
Part of the mystique and the aura
around mid-engine was literally that was
the engines like right
behind your head.
Changes like ride and
drive dynamics, too.
But it kind of gave this idea that,
to compete at this level, you have to
have a mid-engine.
At the same time, Corvette soldiered on
and it was great Nuremberg lap
records.
It was crazy amounts of power grid,
all despite the fact that didn't have
this latest and greatest
exotic car engine.
Part of its success has come
from the credibility Corvette has established
in racing.
Corvettes have been a popular choice
for racing enthusiasts for decades,
even when General Motors has not
been formally involved in racing.
In 1960, a private race team entered a
Corvette in the 24 hours of Le
Monde endurance race in
Le Mans, France.
In 1999, GM began sponsoring a Corvette
racing team, which has since won
107 races around the world.
That is more than any other car
in the history of the International Motor
Sports Association, one of the major
sanctioning bodies for racing in
North America.
In addition, the current Corvette racing
team has had eight victories in
the car's class and the 24 hours
of Le Monde race since 2001.
The Corvette also benefited from some
clever publicity, courtesy of early
NASA astronauts in the early 1960s.
GM President Ed Cole and a Florida
Chevrolet dealer named Jim Rathmann, a
former Indy 500 winner, offered astronauts
from some of the Apollo
missions a special deal that let
them drive any Chevrolet vehicle they
wanted for a year for one dollar.
Many, of course, chose the Corvette.
That doesn't mean things have always
been easy for the Corvette.
General Motors has been
close to canceling the.
Car a few times, but it's always seemed
to save it at the last minute.
One famous incident was in the 1990s
when GM wanted to shut down the
Corvette program in favor
of more popular models.
At that time, the company was
reportedly losing 1000 dollars on every
Corvette it made.
But Corvette program manager Russ McClain
and his team secretly went to
work on a new Corvette.
McClain told no one except his wife that
he had been ordered to cancel the
car.
The car they created was released in
1997 and became Motor Trend's Car of
the Year in 1998.
Corvette sales have seen a decline
in recent years, falling from 33,329
units in 2015 to
18,791 units in 2018.
GM, along with rivals Ford and
Fiat Chrysler, have rapidly been abandoning
traditional passenger cars.
However, industry watchers say the Corvette
name has now lived long enough
to attain a kind of iconic status,
not unlike the Ford Mustang, which Ford
has decided to hold on to even
as it slowly drains its portfolio of
traditional sedans and coupes.
But General Motors has decided it is
time for a big change to Corvette,
and many industry observers say the
mid-engine gives GM a shot at
attracting a new audience to the car.
I think for General Motors and
virtually every automaker whose main stream
or even the luxury brands
that have these halo cars.
The rationale is literally that is that
we have to have something that
brings you into the showroom or gets
our own employees excited because it
does have that trickle down
effect from said vehicle.
And it's one of those things where
you're never going to justify on paper,
you work in product planning, your
corporate bean counting, whatever you
want to call it.
On paper, it doesn't make
a lot of sense.
Can you truly measure
its effect overall?
Not really.
I mean, if you really want extrapolated
down to word of mouth kind of
thing, which again, is pie 1, the
highest, you know, most reputable things
is , I heard it from X, Y, Z,
and you really can measure stuff like that.
You can say, you know, on the
internet we saw this much activity.
We saw as many clicks.
But at the end of the day, it's
one of those things that you really can't
measure people's feelings.
And we know the cars of this nature,
they stir the soul and they get
people excited.
The new Corvette boasts
some impressive specs.
It will have 495 horsepower.
And when paired with a performance package,
we'll be able to go from zero
to 60 in under three
seconds according to GM.
That is approaching
supercar performance levels.
For example, it is within just fractions
of a second of the times boasted
by the 350 thousand dollar Ferrari
488 Pista and the 573 thousand
dollar Lamborghini Aventador
SVJ Roadster.
Chevrolet said redesigning the new Corvette
from the ground up provided a
historic opportunity Chevrolet designers have
wanted for 60 years.
The company said the Corvette can stand
tall with the best the world has
to offer.
GM President Mark Reuss also said Corvette
has pushed the potential of its
front engine design as far
as it can go.
But not everyone is happy about
the switch to a mid-engine layout.
Some longtime Corvette fans have cried
foul over the change, some
considered a betrayal
of Corvettes legacy.
Some complain the car is just aping
European designs and some don't like
how the mid-engine layout
changes the car's proportions.
Others are more optimistic;
if a bit guarded.
General Motors has been trying to
cut costs and improve profitability, and
its push has resulted in some bold,
if controversial moves such as cutting
production of several of its
passenger cars in late 2018.
As of September 2019, shares of GM
had risen about 12 percent over the
past five years.
With sales being so small, many think
Corvettes status as a kind of 'halo'
car becomes ever more
important to its survival.
It gives GM a chance to make
an inspiring, attention grabbing vehicle and
showcase the company's
engineering talent.
By switching over to
a mid-engine design.
Corvette is showing it can make
a world class vehicle and undercut
higher-end makers of super
cars in price.
It's always fascinating to
watch the supercar evolution.
This is a this is
a segment that doesn't stop.
It's never standing still.
It's never static. Every
not even a year.
It's really more like almost
every three to four months.
There's another super car
coming around the corner.
I think General Motors has stepped
into this competitive segment with a
very capable entry in this
new C 8 Corvette.
And it will be fascinating to watch
how how effectively they compete at
their price point with
much higher priced vehicle.
When they've got a vehicle that already
looks like it's going to be
offering performance based models that
are just being produced, despite
all the data that shows sport
utility is taking over the U.S.
auto market.
The next few years could be
some good ones for sports cars.

2014 Premiere Edition Corvette Stingray for sale : Stasek Chevrolet

Bill Stasek Chevrolet:

Hi this is Brent Baker with Bill Stasek Chevrolet
I'm next to stock number 152824. This very
special coupe as you might have guessed due
to the Laguna Blue exterior, brownstone interior
and carbon flash stinger stripe is one of
500 vehicles produced that is the Premiere
Edition. This specific car is number 418 out
of 500 and is equipped with essentially every
option in the book, everything from the chrome
directional torque wheels with 19 inch front
wheel and 20 inch rears, to a five piece custom
Corvette luggage set, custom sill plates,
upper wrapped interior suede trim package
and 3LT premium equipment group. If you'd
like a full list of everything this car contains
because it will just take up too much time
for me to say it today please look below in
the description and comments. Let's hop in
and see how she sounds. If you'd like to take
this piece of history home with you today
or if you have questions about ordering a
Corvette or one that we have in inventory,
please don;t hesitate to give us a call at
847-537-7000.

Chevy LS: Best Engine Swap Ever? | WheelHouse

Donut Media:

It’s a cliche at this point: “Dude, cool
project, got any plans for it?”
“Ah Dude, LS swap, throw a cam in there,
put the LS6 heads on it, it’s gonna be sick!”
“Oh, cool”.
Yeah, LS Swaps are a little played out.
But I wanted to find out why more people are
doing them than ever before.
From muscle cars, to drifters, to this Delorean.
Welcome to WheelHouse.
In the early 90s, GM knew that time was limited
for their small block V8.
Foreign competitors were selling cars with
less power but much better fuel economy.
But GM was like “Nah dude, we’re good”, And
got to work redesigning their workhorse small
block.
The LS1 debuted in 1997 with the release of
the new C5 Corvette.
The block was made of aluminum
which was super light, and the 5.7 liter engine
made 345 horsepower and 350 pounds of torque.
Drivers and critics were
like, yo, this LS thing is sick.
Then in 1999, Chevy released a cast Iron version
for use in trucks and SUVs, which they’ve
since branded “Vortec”.
In 2001, Chevy updated the LS1's design with the
release of the LS6.
It was stronger, better flowing, and had higher
compression.
But why’d Chevy go from LS1 to LS6?
Well, the LS6 was used in the 2001 Corvette
Z06.
So you have LS6, and Z06, I guess that makes
sense.
Anyway, the LS1, LS6 and every other LS all
share a common architecture.
Ultimately, this means that parts between
engines are stupid interchangeable as long
as you do some research.
I can’t tell you who the first person was
to LS swap their car- BECAUSE THEY’RE DEAD.
But I can tell that whoever they are, ignited
a trend that swept the US.
People will LS Swap literally anything.
Muscle cars make up a large majority of LS
usage.
For decades the go-to small block for muscle
cars was the Chevy 350, I mean I had one in
my Trans Am, but people when people started
seeing the benefits of fuel injection, they
started putting the LS in their project cars
instead.
But what if you don’t want muscle car?
The Nissan 240SX is a prime example, with
tons of Formula Drift competitors using the
LS in their race cars.
The Miata is another good option.
Who wouldn’t want a lightweight roadster
with a V8 up front?
That’s what the Shelby Cobra was!
But Nolan, the 240 and Miata are so predictable,
everyone and their mom does LS Swaps on those
cars.
I hear you.
Here are some of the craziest swaps we were
able to find.
This is a 1936 Cord Westchester, notable,
for being one of the world’s first front
wheel drive cars That’s right, this quirky
looking pre-war sedan has a Corvette engine
sending power through a Porsche
transmission to the front wheels.
It’s nuts.
But that’s nothing!
This guy, Connor Hofford, stuffed an LS into
his 1984 VW GTI.
His car debuted at last year’s SEMA show,
and blew people away with it’s custom tube
chassis, that was pretty much all hand built.
Thing is just insane.
Connor, if you’re watching, let’s hang
out dude.
Bring the car by the office, we would love
to see it.
And it doesn’t end there.
This Delorean has an LS in the back!
It’s finally as fast as it looks!
Okay so we know a little bit of the LS’s
History, and why it’s a good engine, and
that a lot of people have put them in a wide
variety of cars that aren’t Chevy’s.
But none of that really tells us why they
do.
Luckily, there’s a pretty simple answer.
The LS is small.
And I’m not talking displacement.
When someone says that an engine is big like
a 427 cubic inch, they’re not talking about
the engine’s physical size.
Engines are basically air pumps, and displacement
refers to the amount of air that passes through
an engine when each piston goes from top to
bottom dead center..
So if we use the LS1 as an example, its a
5.7 liter engine.
It’s got 8 cylinders, a stroke of 3.62 inches,
and a bore of 3.898.
We take those measurements and put them into
this equation, and we get 347 cubic inches.Convert
that to metric and our engine breathers
5.7 liters of air.
So the LS keeps a typical V8 displacement,
while being physically smaller than its competitors.
How?
well most new engines use overhead camshafts which
allow for more aggressive valve lift at higher
RPMs and the use of more than two valves per
cylinder.
Chevy didn’t bother doing that that.
The LS still has it’s cam in- block with
two valves per cylinder, just like your grandma’s
old Buick Special.
And since the cams aren’t hanging out in
the cylinder heads, the engine is shorter
in height and skinner too.
Conventional wisdom says that overhead cam
engines should easily outperform in-block
cam engines because they can put more air
into the cylinders.
But more air is no good if it has a hard time
getting into the cylinder.
So Chevy decided to focus their energy on
airflow.
And that’s why, despite having fewer valves,
the LS is one of the best breathing engines
ever made.
It just breathes really, really well.
And that’s it’s main advantage.
So, it has a physical size advantage, stellar
airflow, and keeps the conventional V8 displacement.
This makes it the perfect candidate for swapping
into oddball cars like the Miata, Delorean
and that GTI.
It all comes down to size.
Going back the 240SX, a built LS will be the
same size and sometimes lighter than the stock
turbocharged four cylinder engine.
And there’s no turbo lag.
You might be like me, thinking about which
car you would swap an LS into.
You might have something in your driveway
right now that would make a perfect project.
But how do you choose which LS to get?
It can be pretty challenging there’s like...a lot
of them.
Well if you’re on a shoestring you should
look for a 5.3 liter Vortec.
Remember these are LS engines but they’re made of
cast iron so they’re about 100 pounds heavier
than the aluminum ones.
BUT, they’re everywhere, and that means
they’re cheap.
a lot of magazines say you can find these
things for like 500 bucks.
Not a bad place to start.
Maybe you want to turbo a V8.
You should go look for a 4.8L Vortec.
It’s another cast iron engine, and it’s
the smallest of the LS's, but smaller displacement
means more meat on the cylinder walls, and
that means you can run a ton of boost without
worrying about cracking the block.
The 4.8 is a great option for people looking
for budget boost.
But what if you want to be completely insane
and build an LS swapped Honda?
Well you can do that too.
The LS4 was designed with front wheel drive
cars in mind like the Impala SS.
I found this build online by Ryan Standke,
where he transplanted an LS4 into his Aruca
RSX AND boosted it.
This thing is insane.
And I think of all the builds we’ve talked
about today it’s my favorite, because it’s
so wrong but so right.
So as you can see, there’s limitless potential
for the LS swap.
And yeah, it’s a popular thing to do right
now but for good reason.
I’ll admit I was a hipster about this LS
Swap thing before I looked into it.
I’m not even a Chevy guy but who doesn’t
love the sound of a V8?
(Righteous V8 noises)
Who doesn’t want that power in their car?
(More righteous V8 noise)
It’s a no brainer.
And the only limit is your own creativity.
(dat good good V8 rumble)
Do you have an LS swap in your car?
I’d love to see it, post it down in the
comments!
The LS is nowhere close to being the first
engine but if you want to know what the first
car was go back to last week’s episode right
here.
If you like the Corvette, check out the up
to Speed on the Corvette.
If my Mustang ever dies, i would definitely
think about LS swapping it, I think that would
be hilarious.
Ford, Chevy guys go fight in the comments.
Thanks for watching, bye :)