Spotlight - 2007 Chevy Avalanche, 7.5" R/C Lift, 20x12, and 33's
Custom Offsets:
- Hey guys, Shawn again, Custom Offsets
CustomOffsetsTV on the YouTube.
Got a vehicle spotlight for you guys.
This is going to be the
'07 Chevy Avalanche 1500.
We took the wheels off the old CO Avvy
so we decided to put them on this one
put a lift kit on it, let's go.
(rap music)
(slow hip-hop music)
Got this 2007 Chevy Avalanche.
This is a 1500, and what
we did with this one
is he went with the seven
1/2 inch rough country lifts.
You're going to see this
massive spacer in here
and lots of new ball joints and stuff
because it got complicated
as it always does
but with that seven 1/2 inch lift
and then with the wheels,
these are the 20 by 12
negative 44 Moto Metal Knights
62s, the negative 44 offset.
Then they get 33 12 1/2
Federal Couragia on here.
These are the ones that we just
took off of our CO Avalanche
that we've running for
probably like a year, I think
maybe year and a half.
Who knows, maybe 15, 20,000 miles.
Still plenty of tread on them.
They balanced out really good.
Never had any issues with them
so he now slapped them on this Avalanche
with that seven 1/2 inch Rough Country.
What's amazing even to us
is even with a seven 1/2 inch lift
we had to do quite a bit of trimming
on that front bumper cover
and then had to heat all of this up
pull it all in and then we used
zip ties, tie straps to
pull everything forward.
The other option is you just lob that off
but we were trying to preserve
as much of this one as humanly possible.
Back here he just had to take off
the front of this running board
but he didn't have to do anything
as far as trimming inside of here
on that inner fender
so that one didn't need anything
as far as a NorCal.
If he would have went to 35s
which is what everybody's going to say
when they see this truck
is they should have went with 35s
he would have had to do quite
a bit of trimming back there
so he was trying to avoid
that this time round.
I think he's going to
end up up going with 37s
he said once he wears these out
and then do that extra trimming.
That's the plan.
Which will take a full NorCal
and quite a bit of work
to get those to fit.
As far as the rest of it you can see
the coils back here for
that seven 1/2 inch lift
you'll just see the big
old Rough Country coils
to bring up the rear end of
the truck about five inches
which basically levels it out
when it's all said and done.
Start at the front of this one.
I think most of it is stock from there
but we'll just give you a front view.
It's got one of those
Chameleon paint jobs.
I have no idea if this is a factory color.
I highly doubt it.
I would imagine, it is factory?
Okay, Chevy got all carried away.
It is one of those Chameleon paint jobs.
It kind of has a bluish-green
color change to it
depending on where the light's shining.
The interior on this '07 is really clean.
It's actually in really good condition.
I'll show you the back.
Super clean truck on the inside for sure.
But that's pretty much it.
Even the running boards are going to be
the factory running boards.
I'd imagine that's an
after market rack on top
at least half of that.
I don't think that was stock.
Then typical Avalanche
if you guys don't know much about these
these covers all come off and whatnot
but it's a hard cover.
(trunk slamming)
that's pretty much it.
I'm sure he's going to do color match tint
and everything else.
This one, he literally
just bought it at auction
or somewhere and had it shipped in
and sent it to us right away
to put the lift kit,
wheels, and tires on it.
That is your '07 Avalanche 1500
on seven 1/2 inch Rough Country
and some 20 by 12 negative 44 Moto Metals
on some 33 12 1/2 Federal Couragias.
Make sure you subscribe, peace.
2007-2014 Chevrolet Avalanche Suburban Tahoe LED Halo Projector Headlights Spyder Auto Installation
JEGS Performance:
Recording: Brought to you by JEGS.
Male: Welcome to Spyder Auto's projector headlight
installation guide for the Chevrolet Suburban.
Before we get started, you'll need a 7 and
10 millimeter socket ratchet and a panel popper.
Check out our Spyder projector 's change the
look of your Suburban. Start by opening the
hood. Remove the 6-10 millimeter bolts securing
the fascia along the radiator support. Now
we'll move down to the fender well. Take a
moment to apply painter's tape or masking
tape to protect the paint while we're working.
Remove the three plastic retainers securing
the fender liner. Then remove the 2-7 millimeter
bolts securing the fender liner.
Stepping underneath the bumper, remove the
10 millimeter bolts securing the fascia on
each side. Now we can go ahead and unseat
the bumper fascia. Before we remove the fascia,
don't forget to disconnect the fog lamp harnesses
if equipped. Go ahead and remove the bumper
fascia and set it aside. With the fascia removed,
we can now access the 3-10 millimeter bolts
securing the headlight. Remove the two bolts
on top and the one bolt on the side. Now go
ahead and unseat the headlight for access.
Disconnect the headlight from the main wiring
harness.
We have to transfer a few things over before
we continue. Disconnect the low beam bulb
from the harness. Then disconnect the high
beam bulb from the harness. Remove the DRL
bulb socket. Never touch the bulbs with bare
hands. Remove the turn signal bulb socket.
Remove the sidemarker socket. Now we can remove
the wiring harness from the OEM headlight.
Transfer the harness over to the new Spyder
headlight. Connect the yellow and black OEM
low beam harness to the blue and black Spyder
low beam lead. Connect the blue and black
high beam harness to the red and black high
beam lead.
Go ahead and re-install the DRL bulb socket.
Be sure to replace the gasket if it's worn.
Re-install the turn signal socket. Again,
never touch the bulbs with bare hands. Re-install
the sidemarker socket. Your beam adjuster
locations are marked here. All adjusters are
eight millimeter. For information on how to
wire the HALOs and more, check out the FAQs
playlist on the Spyder Auto YouTube channel.
Now it's time to re-install the headlight.
Reconnect the headlight harness to the main
wiring harness. Then seat the Spyder headlight
. Re-install the 3-10 millimeter bulbs securing
the headlight to the body. Before we can re-install
the fascia, be sure to reconnect the fog lamp
harnesses if equipped. Then go ahead and seat
the bumper fascia. Re-install the 6-10 millimeter
bolts securing the upper fascia. Next, replace
the fender liner. Then re-install the three
plastic retainers that secure the liner. And
then re-install the 2-7 millimeter bolts.
Now we'll step underneath the bumper to re-install
the 10 millimeter bolt securing the fascia
on each side from below. Then just close the
hood, and you're done.
Congratulations! You've fitted your Suburban
with a set of stylish projector headlights
from Spyder Auto. This is the actual cutoff
line.
Recording: Brought to you by JEGS. Fast delivery.
Your source for high performance and quality.
Delivering performance since 1960. JEGS.com.
etrailer | Rightline Gear CampRight Truck Tent Manufacturer Installation - Chevrolet Avalanche
etrailer.com:
Spotlight - The OG 2003 Avalanche, 6" lift, 20x12's and 33's
Custom Offsets:
- Hey you guys, Shawn again, Custom Offsets.
Custom Offsets TV on YouTube.
Today we've got my old
three Chevy Avalanche 1500.
First build we ever did.
It's six-inch lifts,
it's got 33s,
got big ass bolts in the fenders.
Let's go!
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♫
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(heavy metal music)
- 'Kay guys, like I said,
this was one of our first builds ever.
So this'll take a little while,
'cause were gonna basically
go through everything
front to finish.
Front to back.
Start to finish.
So, if you look at suspension,
we just did a six-inch Rough Country lift.
Which you can barely even see anymore
because it's got so
much Scorpion bed liner
and other products on there.
We built this truck,
shit, Junior,
five years ago, I think?
It's got like 100 thousand, or
200 thousand miles on it now.
It's definitely been
through the ringer and back.
It's done a little off roading,
we've broke some stuff.
Speakin' of broke, I'm
down to 20 bucks Junior.
If we look at the wheels,
we got the 20 by 12 motor
metal M zero nine six two.
You can see it's gotta
little over five-inch lip,
damn near six-inch lip.
That's 12 wide, negative 44.
You can see this is the black
with the machined edges,
with milling.
Then it's got the milling
all the way around.
Little curb rash from Taco Bell.
Then we're runnin' the
Federal Couragia 33 12 1/2s.
So they're 33 tall, 12 1/2 wide.
You can see it's a big, luggy tire.
We kinda wanted that for that
off road look on this one.
I have no idea how many
miles there are on the tires.
It'd a been a good one to tell ya but,
I honestly lost track.
This thing's had so many
different wheel and tire packages
on it, it's a little bit crazy.
As far as trimming, with the
33s and the six-inch lift,
you basically just have to
take out some of this edging.
This was my first trim job ever,
so it's not the absolute cleanest.
I probably could've pulled that forward,
or pulled this out,
took the metal back,
and then moved it back with a heat gun.
Instead I just got in there
and started chewin' at it.
So this'll definitely
look like a rookie one,
'cause five years ago
that's exactly what I was.
You can see I used a
fork or a spoon, perhaps,
to trim the front (laughing),
maybe an air chisel.
I don't know, it looks good though.
Thank God we've gotten better
at that, but that was how
we used to make 'em fit.
We'd just start hittin'
it with shit and see if it
would make room.
That's wheels, tires, suspension.
Like I said it's six-inch.
Let's next do lighting.
So we've completely
replaced the upper markers
and the lower headlights,
the lower fog lights,
are all just Amazon cheapo updates,
just to kinda clean 'em up
because the old ones were
pretty faded from '03.
You can see we got the
six-inch dual bars in the back.
(swishing)
I was being attacked, Junior.
I lived.
Those are basically
replacing the tow hooks.
We took out the tow hooks,
and then came in from the inside,
and just screwed right in.
So those little buggers'll be adjustable,
you can still get some
adjustment out of 'em,
but they literally fit right
where the tow hooks were.
If we ever have to pull this one out,
we just pull it backwards,
don't worry about the tow hooks.
We gotta 20-inch, behind the grill there.
That was one of our first 20s.
So it's got some cobble
drop brackets in there,
but now we have the EMB as you know,
woulda made that a much cleaner
set up.
But right now it's just
sitting on some plates.
Is what it is.
Like I said, this one'll kinda
show you some of our sins
from back in the day.
And then tail lights.
Let's go this way, Junior,
it's muddy over there.
You can see we just went
with a cheap tail light.
We used to have the VHT, but
the police kept yelling at us.
So it's got the cheap eBay
tail lights thrown in there.
Lambo exhaust.
Back in the day, I really wanted a Lambo.
I couldn't afford one,
so I just took a old piece of cardboard,
and I formed up what I thought
looked like a Lambo exhaust.
Brought it to the local metal shop,
had 'em bend and weld somethin' up.
Straight piped it.
Just threw a small Flowmaster 40
race pipe in the middle there,
muffler.
And created Lambo exhaust.
It's sweet, Junior.
It's sweet.
This entire truck is Scorpion bed liner.
We originally had it Plastidipped,
but we wanted to make it more forever,
and we also wanted to
hide some of the rust that
was sneaking through.
I can tell you that that
didn't work very well.
But the good news is even with bed liner,
you can come back and put
Plastidip over the rust.
Eventually it'll be
like four inches thick.
But it's awesome.
These are our Fender Bolts.
So when I first got this truck,
I was tryin' to make it beefier looking,
so I tried to go get some Fender Flares,
found out they don't exist.
The only thing you can buy
is some weird little strip.
So I just said, well I wanna
make it look like there's
flares or something,
so I thought about puttin' bolts in here,
but when I did it,
I said to hell with it and
bought the absolute biggest bolts
I could buy at the hardware store
that were only two inches long.
Drilled holes through all
of my fenders and body,
put silicone RTV on there and literally
threaded these bolts in.
So it's a one-time deal,
definitely had to get
it right the first time.
I think I measured about
11 times and drilled once.
'Cause I was using a speed bit as well.
So you really had to pay attention
to how deep you went with it.
Now I've got big bolts in my fenders.
Same thing with the grill.
I tried to find a grill for this
five years ago didn't exist.
I wanted a rivet style.
So again I went to the hardware store,
bought the absolute largest
stainless steel Allen bolt head
hardware that they sold.
I laid out a pattern,
drilled through my entire grill,
threaded all of these in.
Holds the grill on really nice now,
but when you do have
to take the grill out,
you gotta take 5,000 Allen head bolts out.
Because they're actually
into some of the frame.
So that's super awesome.
It's got 20% tint in the rear.
The police had us put 35% up front.
Still not entirely legal,
but they felt better.
It's got a 5% banner up top.
Used to have a roof mount bar.
I can show you what it looks like.
It's got the told mirrors,
also Scorpion linered.
You can see that when we had
'em do the Scorpion liner
over at Premier Auto in Brillion,
they even did all of the
doorjambs, all of the doors.
So it's really well done.
They did a killer job on it.
It used to have the roof mounts.
You can see some of those sins up here,
but because we filled 'em
with silicone and put the
hardware in, no harm, no foul.
You can actually remove
those roof mounts and have
no left over consequences.
Inside we've got the
Ruff-Tuff gator and black leather seats.
Those have been in there
for about four years.
Show almost no wear.
Still fits super tight.
Big, big fan of these.
Still running a lot of
these in a lot of vehicles.
We've got Kicker speakers.
Replaced all the factory
ones all the way around.
The gauge cluster
is from
Repair My Gauge.
I think it's repairmygauge.com,
or something.
But that's a complete replacement.
So I sent him my gauge cluster,
which had wore out motors
and all sorts of problems.
They actually repair all the motors,
they put the new faceplate in there,
they did the blue needles like I wanted
and the blue backlighting.
I think it was like 300
bucks or somethin' like that.
And it turned out awesome.
Definitely updated the truck,
and fixed all the problems I had anyways.
You can see we've got Navigation.
Head unit in there from
my buddy, Jeff Clear,
over in Ohio hooked me up
with that back in the day.
If you look up, Junior,
you'll see that I actually
took the entire headliner out.
So the entire headliner is suede.
If you feel up in here,
there are Custom Offsets
logos underneath there.
It was supposed to give
it an embossed look,
but apparently I didn't
make them big enough
for it to show the detail.
But I know they're there
and that's all that matters.
You break the camera, Junior?
(chuckles)
I won't tell anybody if you don't.
Okay, we're back.
Junior got in a little
fight with the camera,
but I think we won.
In the back, you can see same thing,
it's got the pullover
Ruff-Tuff seat covers,
it's got a pair of tens
underneath the seat.
I think that's it for interior.
What am I missin', Junior?
All sorts of fun stuff.
There's a lot of little stuff, too,
probably not worth mentioning.
It's got the 5.3 with
200 thousand miles on it,
so it should go another quarter million.
I think that's it, Junior.
- [Junior] I think we got her pretty good.
- It's got 65 thousand
gallons of paint on the frame,
because every single spring,
I've added more and more and
more and more black paint.
I would say we've been able
to keep her pretty clean
over the years.
Never stored,
always run,
left outside for months.
She's a real trooper.
That is the C O Avalanche.
Her name is Stance,
according to her plates.
It's big, it's badass, it's all black,
it's Scorpion bed linered.
Make sure you subscribe,
make sure you come watch us,
Custom Offsets on YouTube.
Peace.
(slow piano rock music)
Rightline Gear CampRight Truck Tent Manufacturer Review - Chevrolet Avalanche - etrailer.com
etrailer.com:
Rightline CampRight Truck Bed Tent Manufacturer Review - 2011 Chevrolet Avalanche - etrailer.com
etrailer.com:
How to Drain Fill and Bleed Coolant System 00-06 Chevy Suburban
1A Auto Parts:
Lifts & Levels: 3.5” Rough Country 2008 Chevy Avalanche
Custom Offsets:
(upbeat music)
- Hey guys.
Brad here with Custom Offsets.
Got an episode of lifts and levels.
Another three and a half
inch Rough Country kit.
And I know you're probably thinking,
we've done a million of these
and you're right, we have,
I didn't want to do this
one, but Lawson's making me.
This one's different because
it's for an Avalanche.
Okay, so, three and a half
inch kits from Rough Country
for the Chevy Trucks are
pretty much all the same.
They're pretty much just
a glorified leveling kit
with upper control arms to
handle ball joint angles.
This kit's no different,
but it's for an Avalanche
so it is different.
On the Avalanche truck,
you got coil springs
in the rear rather than leaf,
so there's no blocks or
anything in their rear.
You got these spacers here,
which are gonna be your coil
spring spacers for the rear
to lift the rear of the truck up.
I believe they are an inch and
a half spacers for the rear.
I should probably measure that
now before everyone gets mad.
So, an inch and half spacers for the rear.
So you're gonna lift
the rear inch and a half
and the front three inches.
These are the spacers for the front.
These are gonna go on the struts up front.
By the way, I probably didn't mention
this is for an '07 and up Avalanche.
So, no torsion bar Avalanches,
these are for the strut trucks.
These are the front strut spacers.
You're gonna lift their
front three inches.
Their control arms for the front here.
The one thing that I really
am not crazy about with
Rough Country's three and a half inch kit
is the whole point of
these upper control arms
is to correct or handle
the new ball joint angle
better than factory arms,
and for most cases we see,
they really don't that
great of a job of it.
But we'll see on this one
if it's any different.
Also, you're gonna get your
sway bar endlings for the rear,
being that Avalanches have rear sway bars
because they're coil sprung.
And they float all over the road,
so you need a sway bar in the rear.
You got the front differential
skid plate here for when the
front diff gets lowered down
on that tiny little bit
that they do on these kits.
I believe that these are
the front diff spacers.
So, it does not get dropped down much.
'Cause there's no cutting
on the cross member or anything like that.
But it does get dropped down somewhat
to help with CV axle angles.
That's another thing that's
not really crazy about
on these three and a half
inch Rough Country kits.
And then, last but not least,
shock spacers for the rear.
You reuse factory shocks.
on pretty much all Avalanche
lift kits out there,
this one's no different.
So, you actually have these brackets,
which will bolt in place
of the factory shock
and then the factory
shock will get, literally,
as you can see just moved up to here.
That's how that works.
So, you're gonna reuse the factory shocks.
That's why you see no
new shocks in this kit.
So, that's pretty much it.
Three and a half inch Rough Country kit
for 07 and up Avalanche trucks.
That's it.
(upbeat music)
Hello everyone,
we got the three and a
half inch Rough Country kit
installed in the truck here,
just like the other three
and a half inch kits
you've seen for Chevys,
it's gonna be the same thing up front.
Although this is an Avalanche kit,
so you got your upper control arms here,
which you can see are
quite an aggressive angle.
But the truck is up in the air.
So what really matters is
once it's on the ground,
and all the weight's on it
and the suspension's loaded.
But right now it doesn't look so great.
Looking at the tire rod
and the CV axle angles,
in the air pretty maxed out.
You could see the strut spacer up here.
That's what's gonna provide
a lift on the truck.
And then you can see,
you can't really see it.
Under the truck, the front diff is lowered
on these kits a tiny bit
with those plastic spacers.
Here, come under here.
Okay, so the diff is dropped
a little bit on this kit.
Actually, you saw those plastic spacers.
They almost look like a body lift spacer.
They're gonna be about
an inch and a half spacer
and that's what they're
gonna use to drop the diff.
And then, so you do actually
have to cut on this kit here.
You'll actually have to cut
the lower cross member here
that ties the control
arm pockets together,
the factory ones.
Because you're gonna need some clearance
for the front diff when
it's dropped down there.
So there's two cooling
fins up here on the diff
that you have to actually cut off.
So you've got to cut
the diff a little bit,
and then that cross member as well.
So, it's definitely not a no cut kit,
but you got to do that stuff
when you want to lower the
front differential down
and have good CV axle angles.
On this particular one, the
truck was rusted together,
as you can probably see.
And so we had to cut the
old control arm bolts off,
got a new cams in here, you
shouldn't have to do that,
unless yours are destroyed
like ours were here.
And then in the back,
since this is an Avalanche,
these are coil sprung in the rear.
So, you probably can't see it now,
but Lawson will gets some pictures.
There's gonna be the coil
spring spacers up here.
It was on the bench before you saw it.
And that's going to lift
the rear of the truck an
inch and a half overstock,
so you're doing three inches up front,
inch and a half in the rear.
And then the extended
sway bar links as well.
Because these coil sprung
trucks are kind of sketchy
once they're lifted,
so you definitely want to have
the rear sway bar on there.
And no shocks or anything like that
because each kit used the shock extension
that we mentioned earlier.
You can see it here.
So that you can reuse
the factory length shock
and then you're not gonna overextend it
or anything like that.
And that's pretty much gonna be it
for the three and a
half inch Rough Country
for '07 and up Avalanches.
Peace.
(upbeat music)
(engine revving)
How To Set Up the CampRight Avalanche Truck Tent
RealTruck.com:
To set up the CampRight Truck Tent, put the
tent over the whole bed of the
truck and the tailgate sleeve where the door
is over the tailgate of the
truck. Then move to put each of the poles
into their corresponding pole
sleeves. Here we have gray matches up with
gray, green pole matches up with
green, and so on.
Once you've done that you want to hook each
of the black straps under the
side of the truck like so. Just cinch them
tight enough to keep them in
place. Then you'll go to the other side of
the tent and put the pole into
its corresponding pole pocket. Come back over
here and raise the poles,
gray poles first, followed by green and red.
The three straps that come down on the front
edge of the tent normally come
down here to the base of the truck and go
under the body to clip on right
here. But if your vehicle has a running board
like this one, that becomes a
little more difficult. You can still run them
below the running board and
up and around, and there's a ledge under there
to hook onto. The strap that
comes from the very corner of the tent, you
can run into the wheel well and
clip on like so. You'll have the same effect.
Once you've put up the poles you want to come
to the very front edge of the
tent and pull it up over the roof of the Avalanche.
You'll see that there's
a plastic bezel here and then, of course,
the metal roof of the Avalanche
here. You want to take the seam that is on
the very front edge of the tent.
It's the seam that holds two cords like this.
You want to take that seam
and put it in the groove between the two materials
of the roof.
Once you've got it in place, you will pull
these cords down tight and lock
them to the underside of the vehicle to hold
it in place. Then come to the
inside and take the green straps to the corner
cleat of the bed, and do the
same in the front with the red straps. Lift
the rainfly over the top of the
whole tent, but when you do so be careful
because there are a couple of
small magnets in the front of the fly which
hold it down tight to the top
of the vehicle.
Once you've done that, you'll go along each
side of the rainfly and clip
the rainfly into the tent below. Then there's
a strap on the very front
edge of the rainfly that actually goes inside
of the vehicle into the floor
hook on the bottom of the Avalanche. Once
you've done this, you can close
the door, and then again carefully lift the
front edge of the rainfly
forward, and you have it secure for the night.
etrailer | Derale Series 9000 Transmission Cooler Installation - 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
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