Troubleshooting a No Start, No Spark, No Fuel, No Com (any car)
ScannerDanner:
Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass line Modification/Performance Upgrade - For Tropical Climate Part 4/5
sTeVeXNYCPerformance:
Desmontar Tablero Chevrolet Aveo / JMK
JMK Automotriz:
Hello people from the new generation!
today we will show you how to dismantle a Chevrolet Aveo dashboard
...it is going to be something really easy
you just need as always to be very careful to not to break any of the pieces
let´s take a philips head screwdriver
we are going to find two cross screws in this part above
they are the first we need to remove
you are going to remove them and now pull from this side of the board towards you
pop it out in this way
in this coming step be careful; you are going to insert
your fingers as much as you can in this edge from behind
in order to pop out some clips
if you just pull them straight, you might break them
so be careful... you are going to do it the way I´m doing it
in that way; by pulling it from behind
so you won´t break it
here we have two more screws
once you removed the screws, you are going to pull the board towards you
ups...I was forgetting that there are two more screws in here!
they are a bit hidden
you are going to find them in this part above...sorry I was forgetting them
these two drivers...
now we have removed them, pull your board
and unplug the harnesses it has behind
and now it is dismantled
well today we had a slight mistake but we aren´t perfect ...
but even like that we dind´t damage any of the parts; they don´t have any scratch
that´s the way you should work!
Well that´s it; I hope we have helped you
any suggestion, you may leave it in the comments below
SEE YOU IN THE NEXT VIDEO!
Decoding a CAN bus signal
PicoScope Automotive:
Hi good morning
We are about to show how to use the CAN breakout
box from our previous video
To look at a CAN bus signal and decode it
I will explain how to get to the menu we have
here
What you need to do is go to tools
Serial decoding
And create
Then channel data
Channel A
Tick the
invert box
Select high or low CAN
Channel name
Between rulers
Then OK
And then we have done exactly the same for
channel B
High CAN
Channel name
Tick the box
Inverted
And OK
When you normally start on this menu first
of all
You have a list of all the systems you can
pick through
But we have done that previously
We will start the car up and show you our
bytes of information
And see what we can see on the bottom of the
car
We have packets of data here
As you can see on the screen we can zoom in
on any particular part
And look at what we have
You can see the packets of data either on
screen or into this Excel file
And see what we are getting
Many vehicle manufactures are not going to
tell you what the data means
But we can look to see what is happening and
what is going on
And get the information
Sometimes some technicians find it easier
to look at the signals
Through the data here rather than on the screen
So just a small video to show you where to
go
Just remember you need to go to the Tools
button
Then Serial Decoding
And follow the menus through while watching
this video
Thank you
Inspección de Sistema CAN
Diagnostic Scan Tool G-scan3:
En este video, vamos a hablar sobre la comunicacion
de protocolo en el estandar de OBDII, el cual
es controlado por el Sistema CAN Automotriz.
Además vamos a hechar un vistaso a algunas
caracteristicas geniales de nuestro G-Scan2
con más videos.
Hace tiempo atras cuando el mundo no tenia
conciencia sobre los cuidados del ambiente,
se usaban pocos sensores y modulos en los
autos.
En esos tiempos, todos los sensores y modulos
eran conectados des de un punto a otro en
cables porque no era necesario conectarlos
entre todos para intercambiar informacion
en tiempo real.
Con el paso del tiempo las regulaciones para
la proteccion del ambiente se han ido poniendo
cada vez mas estricto siendo necesario la
incorporacion de mas y mas sensores y modulos
en los autos para el control de la emision
de humo en el tubo de escape.
Se vieron la necesidad de compartir informacion
en tiempo real para la eficiencia del control
de emision de humo.
Esto quiere decir que el auto vendra equipado
con mas cables para estar conectados entre
si, causando mas peso en el auto, un sistema
mas complejo y eventualmente un alto costo.
Para optimizar la eficiencia de las conexiones
de red, el sistema CAN automotriz fue desarrollado
por Robert Bosch en 1985.
El sistema CAN permitio la comunicacion entre
los diferentes modulos entre si utilizando
un cable comun.
En 1993 la Organizacion Internacional de Normalización(ISO)
lanzó la norma CAN ISO 11898.
Luego en ISO añadieron varias versiones como
ISO 11898-2 (CAN de alta velocidad), ISO 11898-3(CAN
de baja velocidad tolerante a fallos).
Existen muchos tipos de CAN bus, pero para
mantener la simplicidad de este video no entraremos
a fondo de cada tipo.
Ahora, vamos a enfocarnos en ver las diferencias
mayores entre los tipos mas usados.
CAN de Alta velocidad y Baja velocidad Tolerante
a fallos.
En la industria automotriz, ISO 11898-2 (CAN
de alta velocidad) ha sido el protocolo mas
usado debido a su rapido ratio de transferencia
y simplicidad del cableado entre los modulos.
El CAN de alta velocidad permite la transferencia
de hasta mas de 1Mbit/seg y utiliza bus lineal
con resistencia de terminacion de 120ohms
ubicado en cada extremo.
En lugar de tener dos resistencia de terminacion
en cada extremo, el ISO 11898-3(CAN de baja
velocidad tolerante a fallos), tiene la resistencia
de terminacion ubicado en cada modulo y la
resistencia supera los 100ohms.
Dado a la terminacion individual en los modulos,
el CAN de baja velocidad tolerante a fallos
permite al CAN bus la comunicacion en caso
de haber fallas en el cableado.
Esto permite un rango de transmision de entre
40Kbit/seg a 125Kbits/seg de velocidad de
baudios.
Cuando surge un problema en la linea de CAN,
Los sintomas pueden ser variados empezando
desde error de comunicacion entre modulos
hasta una conexcion completamente imposible
con el scanner.
Usted puede diagnosticar autos manualmente
usando el juego de osciloscopio pero probar
con las agujas en los puertos correctos de
OBD y analizar las graficas continuamente
puede ser incomodo muchas veces.
¿Pero que tal si su Scanner pudiera verificar
la linea de CAN con solo conectar el cable
DLC?
El G-scan2 ofrece funciones comodos y simples
para realizar una verificacion premilinar
para la linea de señal del CAN atravez del
conector DLC.
En el menu de utilidades, seleccione inspeccion
de comunicacion lineal.
Tendra opciones para elegir los protocolos.
En este video les voy a mostrar el sistema
de CAN de alta velocidad.
Necesitara poner las llaves de auto en posicion
ON y conectar los cables DLC y darle al boton
OK.
En el lado izquierdo de la pantalla vera numeros
de pin altos y bajos.
Usted puede cambiar la localizacion del pin
en configuraciones.
La configuracion predeterminada para la linea
alta es 6 y la baja 14.
Si la Linea CAN esta funcionando apropiadamente
en orden, el indicador parpadeara.
Esto es para una revision rapida para ver
si hay signos del sistema CAN pero recuerde
que esto no representa la exactitud de las
señales.
¿Que tal si quiero verificar las señales
de ondas de CAN?
Para complementar el diagnostico, usted puede
ver las formas de las ondas en vivo de las
señales altas y bajas del sistema CAN seleccionando
estas ondas en las partes superiores y inferiores
en la pantalla.
Aqui arriba representa una señal alta de
CAN y abajo representa una señal baja.
Esto señala el voltaje del cursor A y B,
y el promedio de voltajes de la onda entera.
Por ultimo, G-Scan2 ofrece una simple verificacion
de valor de resistencia terminal.
Sin probar manualmente su multimetro al puerto
de OBD, usted puede verificar la resistencia
terminal del CAN bus con solo conectar el
cable DLC.
Esta verificacion premilinar tan simple puede
ayudarle a ahorrar su tiempo.
Engine Control Module (ECU) Ground Circuit
ADPTraining:
COMO IDENTIFICAR SI ES FALLA ELÉCTRICA O MECÁNICA! (MISFIRE)
Autodiagnostico Detroit:
how to install an alarm car security system
connectedcaraudio:
welcome to the how to install a car
security system tutorial
in this video we will go over the
necessary steps it takes to install
security system
and its components the tools you will
need to install security system include
a multi-meter various test leads
a soldering iron electrical tape
socket set power drill
pick tools a crimping tool
wire strippers wire separators
any light the parts you will need to
install a security system include
rosin core male connectors
T taps and depending on your vehicle
relays diodes and resistors there are
seven main steps
to installing any alarm these include
downloading tech notes
prepping the harness disassembling
panels
installing security extras mounting the
alarm
locate tests and integrate and finally
testing the unit different makes and
models of vehicles
had different wiring schematics so when
order to determine what circuit
interface into
you must know where the circuit is
located in the vehicle
the text sheet tells you were each wires
located
the color of the wire and is polarity
you can find texts from vehicle forms
once you have found the text sheet
make sure to print it out and bring it
with you to the alarm prep area
upon first glance at the harness the
sheer amount all wires can be
intimidating
to even the most experienced dollars but
luckily
we will have to use but half of these
wires, these alarms are designed to fit
every vehicle on the market
so they give you all the wires necessary
to integrate into all them
so let's prep the alarm for type vehicle
you're working on
grab you take sheet and install manual
with the security system
and bring it to the test bench first on
the list
you will see a 12 volt constant, switched ignition
starter interupt and ground wire, these
wires
on your lower are always connected do
not cut them off
if you have electric door locks use
these wires to unlock
and lock your doors via remote if you or
your customer
does not have electric door locks save
this harness
in the box just in case you or your
customer
want to upgrade to electric door locks
in the future by adding actuators
the wires in the door lock harness can
look very similar in color
to the alarm main output harness especially
when the harnesses are all taped up
to distinguish the wires from each other
take a drill
insert the wires and twist them, so later
you know
that the twisted wires are the door locks,
your vehicle
will either have positive door triggers
or negative door triggers
if you take notes a you had negative
door triggers
then you will not need the positive door
pin input cut it off
if you text she says you have
a positive door trigger
then cut off the negative door trigger input
wire
you will not need it look at your tech sheet
does show that your vehicle is equipped
with a hood or trunk pin
some vehicles do not have these pins installed from the factory
if they do or if you plan on adding a
pin switch later
keep this wire if not cut the wire off
in a alarm you can use a horn to sound
the alarm
instead of a siren if you plan on using
the horn
keep this wire if not cut it off
usually the horn is connected to save
money on the cost of a siren
if your vehicle does not have an electric trunk pop
or you do not plan on adding one later
cut this wire off
if you are using a siren to sound the
alarm keep this wire
if not cut it off, the siren is a
standard method for sounding the alarm
over the horn this wire flashes the
lights
it is always connected do not cut this
wire of
once the alarm is prepped tape up your
harness
as we go more into depth on the install
you'll notice that certain vehicles
will need relays or resistors added to
the alarm prep section
once you have learned the added process
you can add that into your prep section
most of the circuits for the alarm are
located at ignition harness
kick panel and below the dash
so order to reach them we will have to
remove the kick panel
and lower section of the dash most kick
panels will be held in by pressure
fitting clips
and that dash is usually held in by bolt
ranging in size
go ahead and remove those panels now
installing the models first helps cut
the install time
first we will start with the LED mount
LED were it can be easily seen from the
outside driver side
a great spot to mount the LED is in a
removable piece a plastic
on the dash use a drill bit to drill a
hole for the LED to fit in
it done correctly LED should be able to
be pressure fit it in
it the whole is slightly too big you can
use a touch of super glue
from behind to seal it in ,the connector
will run through the plastic piece
and plug into the alarm once we have
found a location for it
the programming but should be installed
in a hiddin but assessable location
cover locations include: behind the kick
panel
in the ashtray or a predetermined
location
chosen by the customer the shock sensor
is used to sense
when someone has impacted the vehicle to
install the shock sensor
mount it to a wire harness or fasten it
to inside the kick panel
using self tapping screws mount a siren
inside the engine compartment with the
open and
facing downwards,ground the black wire of the
siren to the chassis ground
most of all circuits we will need to
connect into
are located at the ignition harness, kick
panel
and at the dash so it is only fitting
that the alarm be located close by the
trick is though
is to make the alarm look like it came
from the factory built in
that way theives cannot easily
defeated it
make sure and choose a location for the
alarm they were not cause it to
interfere with moving parts
once you have decided on a location rout
the shock sensor connector
and the LED connector to the alarm then
plug them in
once that is complete mount the alarm brain
using a wire tie zip tie
to bundle wires in a dash or a solid
metal mount
to test the circuit we must use a
multi-meter it is best to use a
multimeter with a negative test Leed
fitted
with the alligator or ground terminal
clip
this helps free up one of your hands for
easier testing
furthermore if you are a frequent alarm
installer you want to purchase a set a
piercing probes
it makes testing alarm circuits
extremely easier
set your meter to the 12 volt DC range or
the closest range to it
ground a negative test Leed to the vehicle
chassis
first thing I look for when testing a
wire
is the molex connector for that wire this
provides the easiest way to test the
circuit
just place your test lead to the
contacts inside
on some circuits that is not possible
because it may be too hard to trace a
circuit back to its molex plug
this is when peircing probes come in
handy, the other option is if you're
using an tap connector
you can connect into the wire with a tap
and then test the T Tapp
now that we have the general idea on how
to test the wire
let's go ahead integrate into a wire
let's go over various ways to integrate
into a wire
there are various ways connected to a
wire, most common are
connectors such as T Tapp and
integration by Solder
at the two connecting metods I
recommend solder
t taps are a good way to integrate
into a alarm
but any installer will tell you that solder is
the strongest connection possible
so when possible use this method for your
install
to solder you when the soldering flux, a
soldering iron
and some electrical tape preferably the plus 33 type by 3m
to start plug in your soldering iron and
let the heat up for a good 10 minutes
this step is crucial in a good soldering
connection
if you try to solder when a iron is not ready
you end up getting bad solder joints
now I will show you how to solder into
the wire first
you will need to open up the wire, the
easiest way to do this
is to use a wire splitter tool, just insert
a wire
squeeze the handle and it was separate
insulation from the wire
although it is not work very well on
smaller thin gauge wires
another way to open a wire is to use wire
strippers
to do this bite into the insulation with
the stripping section with the strippers
then with some force push the wire
strippers away from you
the insulation should slide off for the
wire
now that you have the wire expose use your pic tool
and pierce the Center of the wire, take your alarm wire and strip back a half an inch
an insert it in between the wire then
wrap it tightly around the circuit
grab your soldering iron and apply heat to
the bottom of the circuit
let it heat the wire up this should take
about a good 10 seconds
then when ready tap the rosin core to
the tip
of the soldering iron it should now
easily then apply the soldered directly
to the top of the circuit
let the solder flow into the circuit
once you are happy with the results
use electrical tape to insulate the exposed
circuit
T taps integrate into the wire by
bitting down
on the circuit when using an T tap it
is very important to you the correct
size tap for the wire gauge your
integrating into
there are three sizes of T taps they are
easily identifiable by the respective
color ,the red tap is used
for smaller wire 22 gauge to 18 gauge
the blue tap is used for medium size
wire 16 gauge to 14 gauge
and the yellow tap is used for thicker
ignition harness wires
such as 12-gauge to 10 gauge to use a T tap
you will need a pair of pliers insert the T tap
onto the wire then clamp down on the
wire you should hear it click
if you don't you need to remove it and try again
once the T tap is in place crimp a male
connector onto wire
that will be inserted in, make sure you
the proper male connector on the alarm
wire
Base it on the gauge of the alarm wire not
the circuit you're interfacing into
the number one reason these connectors
fail is due to using the wrong size
connector on the alarm harness
and used the wrong size t tap
lets locate test integrated circuits for our alarm
bring out your tech notes
multi-meter and connectors we will start
at the top of the text sheet
and make our way down this wire connects
into the vehicle circuit that shows 12
volt
regardless a vehicle key position and
will show 12 volts even when no key is inserted
it is normally found at the ign
harness use your test lead to verify the circuit
once verified integrate into the circuit
this wire connects into the circuit
that shows 12 volts when the key
cylinder is in the on position
which is the second click over and also
shows 12 volts
during the cranking at the vehicle this
wire
is normally found at the ign
harness use your test lead to identify the circuit
once verified integrate into the circuit
when the alarm is armed
this wire sends a negative pulse to the
starer kill relay
when this happens the relay internally
creates a break
of vehicle starter wire resulting in
the vehicle not being able to start
to test the vehicle starter wire contact
the suspected circuit
it was show 12 volts only when the
vehicle is cranking
once this wire is verified cut it then try
to start the car
the vehicle should not start let's look
at the starter kill relay and its harness
as mentioned before this relay will
create a break in the vehicle starter wire
plug the relay into the starer kill
harness, you will notice that the harness
has four wires
two of the wires will go to the vehicle
starter wires one wire will go to the
alarm ground output when armed wire
and the last wire will go to vehicles ign wire
to connect this harness take relay contact 30
and 87a crimp a butt connector on the two
wires
next a contact 30 a connect it to the
starter side
other starter wire then connect 87 a
to the ignition switch side of
starter wire
next crimp a female disconnect connector
onto wire relay contact 86 this
will connect
into the alarms ground output when armed
wire next take the relay contact number 85
and connect it to the vehicle's ignition
wire this wire completes the electrical
circuit
if you haven't done so already crimp a
ground ring
to the ground wire from the alarm
sand off any paint from where you will be
grounding the wire
and drill it into the chassis the vehicle
using a self-tapping screw
when the system is armed and someone
opens the door
the alarm reads that a doors is open and sounds
the alarm
to test the circuit contact the suspect
a circuit with your meter
Press in and depress the door pin it is
usually located
on the door jam when you press it in it
thinks the doors close
when you release a it thinks it doors
open when it opens you should see a
change in voltage
it will either go 12 volts positive or 12
volts negative
depending on the polarity of your door pin
when the alarm is breech
this wire sends a positive output to the
siren causing it to sound
this wire will run through the firewall
into the engine where the siren is located
connect this wire to the positive side
of the siren using a connector, this wire when
connected to a light switch
will flash the parking lights this a circuit
in the vehicle
shows 12 volts when the light switch is
turned to the on position
most vehicles have a positive trigger
light so all alarms from the factory
come with this installed if your vehicle
has a negative triggered headlight switch
then you will need to convert output
of the alarm using a relay
most alarms may have a feature where you
can change output
of the light flash refer to your alarm manual for help
to test the circuit may contact with a
suspected circuit
turn headlight switch on/off your meter
should change voltage to either positive 12 volts
or negative 12 volts, once this wire has been verified
integrate into the circuit, when the lock or the unlock button is pressed on the remote
these wires when connected will send a pulse to your door locks telling them to lock and unlock
normally the output on these wires from
the alarm are negative outputs
check your tech notes to see what polarity your
vehicle door locks need to activate
there are couple different types of door
lock systems
most common are negative pulse and
positive pulse
others include reversed polarity, single
wire
vacuum locks and data control locks if
your vehicle locks
are something other than negative you
will need to prept the door lock outputs
for such door locks
to test a positive or negative door lock
circuit
make contact with the lock wire hit the
lock switch
on the vehicle the circuit should
trigger 12 volts
or 12 both negative depending on the
door lock system
once a circuit is verified
integrate into the circuit ,test the unlock door
circuit
by making contact with the circuit hit
the unlock switch
on the door, it should change voltage just
as before, once a circuit is verified
integrate into the circuit after all
wires had been integrated
test the alarm functions to test the
vehicle close all the doors
but leave the windows open, arm the alarm
and wait 20 seconds for the unit to arm
reach an and open the door through the
window
the siren or horn should sound do this
for each door
if you have the hood and truck monitored
arm the vehicle
and pop the hood release cable from
inside and open the hood
the alarm should go off once the hood
truck and doors are tested arm the vehicle
get in and try to start the car with
the key it should not start
to test the shock sensor hit the base at
the steering wheel
the shock sensor should go off if not
you may need to adjust the gains a
little bit higher
well that wraps it up for the alarm
install video thanks for watching my
video
How to Hot-Wire a Car
Howcast:
How to Change Tie Rods (inner and outer tie rod ends)
ChrisFix:
Hey guys Chris fix here and today I am going to show you how to replace the tie-rod ends
both the outside and the inside tie rod
ends
very important for your steering and for
your toe
alignment so I am going to show you how to do that now, so there is your tie rod
you can see I can move this with my hand, it is very old
300,000 miles will do that to it. It is amazing they made it that far
so here are all of the tools you are going to use for this job. You need
a couple wrenches, screwdrivers, flathead
screwdrivers
some lock tight thread glue
a torque wrench, a breaker bar, hammer,
rubber mallet, needle nose plyers
and a grease gun and the new tie rod
inside and outside. You will also need an inner tie-rod tool
which is this right here. You can rent
this for free Autozone or Pepboys or
whatever the main part stores you use.
So what you are going to do is take your needle nose plyers
and open up the cotter pin so that it is straight.
And once the cotter pin is straight, grab the other side
and start pulling it out.
there we go
one cotter pin pulled out.
Now you can put a 19mm or 3/4 ratchet or wrench on this.
A nice long break a bar will help.
Once you break it loose, use your ratchet
and take the castle nut off.
now there's a tool that you can use that
goes in here and pry's this up, but
what I am going to do is take this castle nut and I'm gonna flip it over
so screw it in this way.
Good! Now I am going to take a hammer, I'll use a rubber mallet just to be safe
and I will pop it up maybe up
[Metallic Hammering Noise]
There we go.
The tie rod end is out. Now this is the
interesting part
there's a nut here that they use for
your alignment
because this affects your alignment.
What you want to do is put your tie rod in and now we can unscrew this nut.
You just want to break that loose like that and now we can take this out and
you can see this spins freely... From the bottom here
that's that the bottom which is pointing down,
you wanna take this
and you want to spin it.
So that is one, two... and you want to count how many spins it takes to get this off.
three, four, five, six...
18, 19... So twenty spins total,
it took me 20 spins you get this off and
when you put the new one on
you want to count twenty spins and the
reason why is it that your alignemnt
isn't completely out of alignment. You are still gonna have to get the car aligned
after you change this
but at least your alignment wont be so bad
that it's dangerous to drive
so you could see this moves around very
easily and has a little bit of play inside and outside
so the inner tie rod end also needs to be changed, but we were going to do that anyway
Now you can see, so the tie rod end works by steering the car when you turn the steering wheel
it turns this which allows the car's
wheel to turn
it goes all the way up into here, and now there is a boot here
and you want to use a pliers to get
this off and there's also
a another one these except you have to break the clamp with a screwdriver,
and I will show you that now.
but that is all the way in the back
so for this one, you just get the
the same needle nose as before
squeeze it and pull it out.
all this is, is a little clamp to keep the boot on.
Now little trick here is to use a
screwdriver a flat head
and just bend this up a little bit. Not
too much because we are re-using the boots
you just want to get it under here so we can spray some silicone or grease
to make it slide off easier
Now we just go in here, with a flathead screwdriver,
carefully, without breaking the boot it's
like that
just like that... You see how the boot is up... get your WD40 or whatever
some type of grease or silicone, which is what I am using
and just spray it in there.
and that will make the boot come off a lot easier because surprisingly, the boot is on there tight.
the next thing we are going to do
you see that clip right down there
there is a clip right there, and what you are going to do is push the screwdriver in and turn the screw driver to open the clip
it's hard to see but I think you will get the idea when I do it.
You just get the screwdriver in there
and turn... [clicks open] and you can see
it opened up, and now we can take the boot off.
[Spray]
OK, unscrew this nut here so we can take the boot off.
take the bolt off, slide off your clamp,
now take your bellows boot off
good, so we're gonna wanna quickly
inspect this to make sure there are no cracks
looks good, so when we're installing
it there is this right here
that's gonna slide over the tube
in there
its going to slide over that tube which connects to the other tie rod on the other side of the car
it allows for venting... so you can see the
tube on the top right and then you could
see the
inside tie rod right there with its ball
joint that is
very loose, so now we're going to take
that out.
so here is the actual tie rod
the inside tie rod
and I just want to show you what is going to happen so that you completely understand this.
so here is your adapter
your adapter is going to fit on here, just like that.
So when you turn the tie rod too, it grabs the end and turns it
otherwise it would be hard to get a wrench
on here. You can do it you just have to see if you have
access. The other thing to remember is
that there's sometimes a pin in this
so you have to take that pin out and that is what I am going to go check for now.
You can see on this tie rod end there is a pin right here and this has to come off
so you take a flat-head screwdriver
you get underneith it, and you pry it out.
you could see I'm just prying this up
If you can't get your screwdriver under here that easy, you could use a hammer and the screwdriver
and just get it to indent a little bit. So you could see
I'm almost ready to just knock this thing out
Knocked it right out. So now we can unscrew this.
Just like I showed you, your adapter piece goes right on top just like that.
take your tie rod tool
slide it in
and then you put your ratchet on there.
Once you break it loose like that
this thing should come right out, and if it is not coming out easily
remember there's that pin in there that needs to come out first
here are the two tie rods side by side
the next thing you are going to do is make sure they are the same size
the new one is a little bit longer
so that is going to affect the toe but
we're getting an alignment anyway so
doesn't matter. Now you can see
I can move this really easily, that is the old one
a single finger can move it around
the new one... I cant even move it
it'll have to be on the car for me to move it. I'm going to get some blue thread lock
this is the removable type
and I am going to put a little inside here
Just like so... Now lets install the new tie rod.
never took the old clamp out
the clamp you have to break, take that out.
here is the pin
it's not really reusable
take our new tie rod
and just tighten it by hand
Once you cannot tighten it by hand anymore,
Once you cannot tighten it by hand anymore,
get your tie rod tool
put it over the tie rod
slide it on
then get your torque wrench,
for my vehicle it says torque to 66 to 74ft-lbs of torque
I am going to torque it to 70ft-lbs
Once you torque it, you are set.
I am under the car and you can see the hole for the pin.
That is where you push the pin in... I put a screwdriver head against the pin
like this... and then I used a hammer to lightly tap it in.
and now it's all the way in.
So remember before I was talking about the clip
that is a sacrificial clip that holds on
the boot that you put your screwdriver in here
and you twist and the clip opens up, well, it is only a one use clip
so either you get a new one, which
they're hard to find,
but one temporary solution is to use
zip-ties
I went to go get a bellows boot kit
to see if it comes with new clips and
and it came with zip ties
so although it sounds kinda cheap, the boot doesn't really move
very much so it's okay to use a zip-tie...
It is not a permanent solution like this metal clip
because a zip tie will eventually get
brittle but until you can find a metal clip
zip ties are a good way to go, and that is what I will use.
You can also use stainless steel hose clamps with the nut that tightens it down
The hose clamps are hard to find that are narrow enough to fit the boot.
so zip ties work nicely in this situation.
Now we are going to put the new boot on.
You see that at the end of my screwdriver?
There is that tube and you want to make sure you push
this into that tube... So I actually tightened up the zip ties
first up on the the boot, now I am going to slide the boot in.
so now you just tighten the zip ties after you push the boot all the way on
good
Now we take our clamp, and bring it up
Put it on just like that and we are done with the boot.
so here is the new tie rod end
we can see the new is nice and sturdy
the old one moves really easily. It comes
with all the accessories
the screw in the top, a pin, and a nut. So
they give you a new nut
but it's kinda small, so I will use the old one because it's thicker.
has more thread on it so it will lock
better.
Just screw that old nut back on...
It took me 20 spins to get this
off so I will put it back on with 20 spins.
It is threaded so we will start counting
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ,7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13...
14, 15,
16, 17, 18,
19, 20... OK
20 spins, face it down. Now will tighten
our nut up here.
We want the nut to push against
the new tie rod end.
This will keep it from moving.
I am going to put the grease valve on. Just screw it in by hand first.
Now I will use a 5/16 inch wrench
And just snug it down.
You dont want to tighten this too much.
Just enough, and that is good.
Now we will put this into the knuckle.
Line it up...
push it through...
Get your new castle nut and screw it on.
That is how it should look.
I set the torque to 46ft-lbs
And tighten it until it clicks...
[Click]
when it clicks once, you do it again and
in that statement
[Click]
And then that is tight enough.
we will now take our cotter pin and send it though the hole.
good
Now just bend the cotter pin around the castle nut
Like so
Now we're gonna lube this up
Put the grease gun on there and pump it with grease.
you can see the rubber expanding
and once it expands like that, that means you have enough grease in there
and you just finish the job!
You just changed the inner and outter tie rod ends!
Now go get your car aligned.
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