3 Cylinder Car Engines - Everything You Need to Know
Scotty Kilmer:
rev up your engines, today I'm starting a
new segment, every Thursday I'm going to
answer one of the viewers questions, and
make an entire video on that question
and today's question comes from Charles
737, Charles says Scotty you talk about
four-cylinder engines, six-cylinder
engines, and eight solar engines,
what about three cylinder engines, well I
know an awful lot about three cylinder
engines because I was eyes into
motorcycles, and when I was young in 1969
triumph came out with their Trident
which is the three cylinder motorcycle
engine, which kind of revolutionized
things at least for the British, but within
a year or so, Honda came out with a 750
four-cylinder engine and that blew away
the triumph three cylinder 750, so it's a
very short-lived amount of speed for
triumph, but it's kind of the end of the
line too, the company soon went bankrupt
but decades later, triumph came back and
now 2018 they have the Triumph Speed
Triple that's a three cylinder engine, it
puts out 140 horsepower and for only
driving on two wheels and a vehicle
that weighs maybe 500 pounds it's a lot
of power, now in car engines three
cylinder engines in the past got a
really bad rap because they didn't have
much power, the first really big one sold
in the United States was the Geo Metro,
that had a three cylinder engine made by
Suzuki that was 1.0 litre, but that
little Suzuki engine only put out fifty
five horsepower, they could barely get
out of their own way, especially if they
had an automatic transmission, and those
Metros they tended to shake at idle
because the three cylinder engine isn't
inherently all that well balanced least
the old ones weren't, but if you're
talking about modern three cylinder
engines, like this Ford EcoSport, it's got
a three cylinder engine but guess how
much horsepower it puts out, and we're
sitting here in drive and this thing idles
really smooth it's not shaking, you can
see on the tach it's not wavering the
engines not shaking I don't feel any
vibration in the steering wheel, with
modern advancements in metallurgy,
engine design, fuel injection designed
these modern 1.0 three cylinder engines
are far cry from that little 55 horsepower
washing machine that the Geo Metro's had in them, now this one that Ford has
you can see it's got three cylinders, one,
two, three, but it also has gasoline
direct injection, which makes it have the
most power and burn fuel the most
efficiently, plus it has a very advanced
turbocharged system, here's the
intercooler here to cool the air so it
works more efficiently, so it can put out
horsepower when you need it, but when you
don't and the turbo doesn't kick in, you
get a lot better gas mileage, now you
might think hey what do Americans know
about three cylinder engines they're
never that popular here, well
check out this Ford three cylinder
engine, as you can see right here, it's
it's made in Craiova engine plant which is
in Romania, Europeans have been into
three cylinder engines for quite some
times, so that thing comes from Europe
they need gas savings and they need power,
they've been messing with that stuff for a
long time so this isn't just some brand
new thing that Ford came up, with they
took an already existing technology and
made it better, with a smaller engine you
can fit it into a smaller space, so the
vehicles gonna weigh less, and you're
gonna get better gas mileage and much
better handling, because the less an
engine weighs, the less weight it has to
pull itself, as such a three-cylinder
engine is fighting against the law of
diminished returns, if you keep making
engines bigger they weigh more, then they
need more power to pull themselves, and
since this is the Thursday segment where
I answer a viewers question, place your
own question on the YouTube comments
below, and I'll pick the best ones to
make a single video to answer your
questions, and where else can you find a
guy with 50 years experience of fixing
cars to answer your own question with a
video, so if you never want to miss
another one of my new car repair videos
remember to ring that Bell!
matiz
DEAF TUBE:
hello welcome to deaf Car. now let's try the Matiz, 1,100 cc engine 2nd model
we are on the highway at 120km / h, the car is not safe, dances a bit and it is not positive.
on the highway, the wind shakes the car so annoying, why: the car is light
Now we are in the mix, even here the quality is poor, cornering dance for his business, not peaceful and unstable.
I am comfortable there, the steering is smooth, but the suspension and convergence are scarce
I saw my guide? the driving position is standard, the steering has no adjustments, it is poor!
drive of low reliability, but has a short exchange that allows to have a good sprint to all the schemes ... it is sufficient 3rd ...
after some calculations, the consumption:
on the highway, we thought that consumes less, but no, come to 5.ooo laps, starts to consume
at 3,000 rpm consumes less
It is known that in comparison with other cars with 3-cylinder engine, also consume less speed than this car.
It is a fault.
the seat, speaking of the interior
designers beautiful, only that the wheel does not have regulations, visibility and short saddle with a few adjustments
is simple
It has a bit of electronics, watch
the engine
the engine is a 1100 cc 3-cylinder
seen 3 cylinders? you may think it is weak, but with the change short, as mentioned earlier while driving
gearbox and engine response is ok, only the handling is poor, but the engine is good and the car goes.
look outside
the headlights are the penultimate model. We see the back
the center clear, are the newest models, older models are all in red, this is newest
15-inch wheels, has alloy wheels, they are normal in iron and with the cup. walk equally
this car is in the basic version, named SE
for example, red chassis and mirrors no
suspension on the highway does not go on dirt roads like this, make the car driveable and sweet
if we find a deep hole, his behavior is annoying, the dirt instead, performs well
no highway
a small car, we see the trunk
to open the door, do not have the button, we are obliged to open it with the button inside, look
It serves necessarily the key
open ... you think is small, but no. is able to contain 3 or 4 backpacks, space is there, look.
after a day of practice, I can tell you the positive comments and denied:
a balance between positive and negative 50%
the change is short, it is convenient for shooting, the uphill and overtaking, does not create problems
highway is negative, but the change is positive
suspensions negative and positive, do not go on the highway, off-road instead.
tailgate, we are obliged to open it by push button or key,
the steering wheel does not have regulations, negative. The chair has no regulations, negative ... All this is negative
the positive: the engine, walking and responds well, the rest is enough.
we're done, the next video.
Automatic vs Manual Transmission
Learn Engineering:
Which is better? Manual or automatic transmission?
That's a pretty interesting question
This debate has been present for the last seven decades
Manual and automatic transmissions are completely different technologies
Which use different configurations and principles
one is based on a simple grear pair while the other is based on a
planetary gear set one uses a torque
converter while the other uses a clutch
pack we will do a logical comparison of
these technologies in this video but
first let's understand the basic science
of transmission an internal combustion
engine produces useful torque and power
only during a certain speed range
due to this inherent problem of IC
engines controlling the drive wheel
speed by directly connecting them to the
engine is not a clever idea such an
approach will give the engine of very
low efficiency
rather we need a transmission in between
so that the engines rpm can always be in
the maximum efficiency range the
transmission takes care of the speed
variation of the drive wheels first let
us see how the speed variation is
achieved in a manual transmission a
manual transmission is a collection of
gear pairs
it has three sections
input intermediate shaft and output
the input is connected to the
intermediate shaft so the intermediate
shaft always rotates at a constant speed
the intermediate shaft is then connected
to the output gear set you can see that
the output gears will turn at different
speeds due to different gear ratios
however the output gears are not fixed
with the output shaft and you can even
see a gap between the output gears and
shaft if we connect only one output gear
to the shaft the shaft will have the
speed of the connected gear
for this the main shafts gears have a
synchronizer cone teeth arrangement
a hub is connected to the shaft and a
sleeve slides over it
just by moving this sleeve you will be
able to connect the gear and shaft
it might seem like a simple mechanism
however during an actual operation the
hub and gear will be rotating at
different speeds and the sleeve gear
connection is not possible as they do so
first let's make their speed the same
for this we must discontinue the power
flow to the transmission the use of
clutch pack comes here
by disengaging the clutch pack the power flow to the gear
set is discontinued
now a synchronizer ring with a friction
cone can help to match the speed of gear
with the sleeve
when there is no power flow pushing the
synchronizer ring against the gear will
help match the speed of the gear to the
hub
now we can have a smooth connection
after the connection clutch pack is
engaged
so every time you need to change the
gear you must disengage the clutch this
also means power discontinuation and an
Associated speed drop during the gear
change this is why a manual transmission
drive is never a smooth experience now
let's see how an automatic transmission
is different from manual transmission
automatic transmission was developed to
overcome the power discontinuation
problem in manual transmission and it
uses a planetary gearset arrangement
rather than a simple gear pair
you can see that a planetary gearset has
two inputs and one output
the basic principle of automatic
transmission is simple just vary these
two input speeds and you will get
different output speeds
to achieve this objective let's
introduce one more planetary set
the output of the second
connected with one of the inputs of the
first set in simple words the carrier of
the second set and the ring gear of the
first set are a single unit this forms
an interesting mechanism and is the
simplest automatic transmission possible
to clutch packs are introduced to arrest
the motion of the ring grears
when the clutch pack is pressed the
corresponding ring gear will be
stationary and carrier will rotate
when the first clutch is pressed the
green ring gear is stationary and we
will get the first gear
if we can turn the green ring gear the
output speed will increase to achieve
this you must release the first clutch
and engage the second clutch the green
ring gear will rotate as it is connected
to the carrier of the second set
it is worth noting that the first clutch
is being released at the same time that
the second clutch is engaged so there is
no loss in power transmission
for different output speeds are possible
with two planetary set arrangement to
learn the details of it check out our
detailed video on automatic transmission
by using three planetary gear sets in
series we will be able to achieve six
different speeds and a reverse the
beauty of the automatic transmission is
that by engaging the proper two clutch
packs we can achieve different output
speeds
now let's compare these two technologies
directly as discussed in the automatic
transmission there is no abruption of
power flow so you will get a smooth
driving experience computer controlled
operation of the automatic transmission
makes the driving even simpler it is
clear that the manual transmission
technology is much simpler than the
automatic it has fewer components and is
easier to repair on the other hand
automatic transmission is a tightly
packed arrangement when it comes to
heavy duty operations manual
transmissions offer more durability due
to this reason almost eighty percent of
heavy duty trucks use manual
transmissions
the way automatic and manual
transmission handles the condition of
braking is quite different and
interesting
in manual transmission driving before
you press the brake pedal the clutch
pedal must be pressed completely this
way the engine rotation and wheel
rotation are separated completely and
the sudden cease of the wheel will not
be transmitted to the engine
however there is no clutch pedal in an
automatic transmission car so to
separate the engine rotation from the
transmission a torque converter is used
this is a fluid coupling which allows
slippage so a torque converter helps
automatic transmission handle the
braking scenario without the need of a
clutch pedal however a torque converter
is a good heat generator which in turn
reduces efficiency of the vehicle as a
result automatic transmission vehicles
tend to become less fuel-efficient than
manual vehicles however the modern
torque converters have overcome this
problem it is our hope that the next
time you plan to purchase a four-wheeler
you will be able to choose the proper
transmission technology according to
your needs to miss our video on DSG
transmission which has the best features
of automatic and manual transmissions
combined please consider helping us at
patreon.com so that we can sustain our
educational services thank you
Doing This Will Make Your Car Get Better Gas Mileage
Scotty Kilmer:
rev up your engines, today I'm gonna help
answer a very common question
Scotty all of a sudden my car's getting
worse gas mileage what can be doing that
the first thing to check of course is
the air filter, I don't know how many customers
I have over, their car was running
sluggish getting bad gas mileage, first
thing I did was take the air filter box
out and find out it's all clogged with
dirt, check it every once in a while, I
know people don't look at stuff much
these days but check the air filter,
they get clogged up you're gonna get
horrible gas mileage, and don't fall for
any of those foolish claims that some
companies had that say, Oh our air filter
will get you better gas much it's a
bunch of nonsense, the filter that comes
with the car was designed for the car
and a lot of times if you don't get that
OEM filter but you get a cheaper
aftermarket one, it's worse for the car
because they don't have as much
filtration area in them, and then they
clog up faster so you'll get worst gas
mileage now the next thing about worst
gas mileage is, you want to keep clean
oil and you want the right weight,
whatever your car calls for on the oil
cap use that because of course the
lighter the viscosity, the less friction
the better the gas mileage, I've seen
people put in a heavier weight oil than
the car was designed for, sometimes these
things you'll get 8-10% worst gas
mileage, especially in a modern vehicle
that might use like a 0w 20 oil, that's a
really lightweight oil, it calls for that
use that oil, use the correct oil you
find you had your oil changed and your gas
mileage went down, probably got the
wrong oil in there, now another common
thing that give you bad gas mileage is a
dirty or bad mass airflow sensor, this is
the mass airflow sensor from a GM, if you
look inside you can see there's tiny
little wires those things can get dirty
then they give a false reading, I have a
whole video on how to use mass airflow
sensors to clean cars, it's called make
your car run better with a little spray
cleaner and you might do that every once
in a while to keep the crud from
building up on them, because if these
mass airflow sensors get bad data to the
computer, you can get really bad gas
mileage, anybody who
knows how to use a scan tool you can
plug the scan tool in and and you can read
the mass airflow data, if you're really
into cars hey you can even get a thirty
forty dollar scan tool that'll read mass
flow and you might just want to put it
on your car when it's running normally,
write down the data of what it's like
when it's warmed up and it's idling in
drive and see what the data is, you start
getting worse gas mileage just plug in
your scan tool see what the mass airflow
data is and if it's way off, you can try
cleaning if that doesn't fix it you can
just replace them, they just bolt on and
off they're very easy to change on most
cars, another reason you can get bad gas
mileage especially in a late-model car
you could just have a weak battery,
absolutely everything is run by computer
in modern cars, if the battery doesn't
have enough voltage in it the systems
can go haywire, now it may sound crazy
but I've even had customers, one had a
Mercedes that the engine would crank
fine, but the engine
wouldn't start, and I do have to admit I
spent a reasonable amount of time
checking all kinds of stuff to see why
the vehicle wouldn't start, but I found
out that when I put my battery tester on
the battery showed that it was no good
and it needed replacing, even though it
was cranking the engine pretty fast, now
that would have never happened when I was
a
young mechanic, if the battery went
that was good enough to get a
old carbureted car going but these
modern fuel injected computer run things,
hey it had enough voltage to spin the
engine over but there wasn't enough to
get the fuel injection system, and the
electronic ignition system to fire up,
soon as I put a new battery in start it
up ran like a champ, so as crazy as it
might sound, get your car battery checked
if
you're getting worse gas mileage, and while
you're at it these machines also check
the alternators and the alternator and
the batteries work in conjunction so you
just want a test of both, the whole thing
takes like four minutes with one of
these machines, now the next common
reason I see that cars get worse gas
mileage has nothing to do with the engine
itself, has to do with the transmission
the transmission does exactly what it
says, it transmits the power of the
engine to the wheels to make them spin,
if it's not shifting into all gear
smoothly you're gonna get worst gas
mileage, and if it's slipped you're gonna
get worst gas mileage, the transmission
has a lot to do with your gas mileage
and with modern computerized automatic transmission
a lot of times it's a good idea to pay a
mechanic like me to run a transmission
scan with our fancy scan tools, I've seen
cars like this Mercedes behind me pop up
four or five different transmission
codes when you hook that up, and then I
explain to the customer, that's why your getting
bad gas mileage your
transmission isn't working right, now the
next big reason you can get bad gas
mileage is because the problem in your
braking system, the brakes are supposed
to just do nothing while you're driving
down the road, then when you step on them
they're supposed to squeeze the rotors
or the drums to make all the energy of
the car turn into heat and stop the car,
which is great when they work, but they
get old a lot of times the brakes will stick
on them, all you got to do is jack the car
up
in the air
spin all four wheels, if you see some of
them they drag or you can hardly spin them
at all, your brakes are drag and it would
be like driving with one foot on a
brake and one foot on the gas, now years
ago I had a customer who's getting bad
gas mileage in a BMW, I checked all kinds
of
stuff out and I really couldn't find
anything wrong with the car
so I said, okay let's go for a road trip
you drive, so he's driving his bmw and
I watched him, and he had one foot on the
gas and one foot on the brake, and I said
why do you have you foot on the brake,
he said well they taught us that way, one
foot
on the gas one foot on the brake, so I
made up some flimsy excuse to him and I said
well yeah let me go behind you and I'll
follow you and see if your car looks
weird, well the only thing I was looking
for to see if his brake lights are on
and the whole time he was driving down
the road he had the brake lights on
which means he was driving down the road
with one foot on the brake and one foot
on the gas, and of course he was getting
bad gas mileage there was absolutely
nothing wrong with the car, I couldn't find
anything wrong with that at all
it was cause he had one foot on the
brake and one on the gas, and sticking
brakes will do the same thing of course,
now the last common thing for getting
bad gas mileage is using the wrong fuel
in your car, most modern cars are made to
run on plain ol regular gas and they run
fine, but let's say you've got a car that
needs the super octane gasoline, if you
put in regular gasoline at least in the
modern ones, it'll run okay but it will
get worse gas mileage, it won't be as
efficient, and vice versa as crazy as it might
sound,
if you put high-octane gas on a car
that's made for normal gas, you can
actually get worse gas mileage, the thing
about
high-octane gasoline is, it burns slower
it can take more pressure too before it
explodes, a high compression engine has
to have a fuel that won't ignite too
early, where a low compression engine
doesn't have to worry about that, you put
high-octane gas on a low octane engine,
it's not gonna destroy anything it's not
gonna make it ruin any better either,
but you could actually get worse gas
mileage doing that, hey the engineers
design these things to run as well as
they can on whatever fuel they're
supposed to run on, don't mess with the
way they designed it, they know what
they're talking about when it comes to
that, they have to work their butts off
to try to get these cars get the best
gas mileage they can, and if you go
against the way they designed it that's
a foolhardy move, now I bet somebody's
gonna say, oh Scotty doesn't know what
he's talking about, I got a really old
car it was made for regular gas and I
put high test gasoline on it, and it
actually gets better gas much, yes that
can happen but here's why it can happen,
it can happen because your old engine
hasn't been taken care of and it's
building up with carbon inside, and as
the carbon builds up, carbon takes up
space, so if it takes up space inside the
engine that increases the compression
ratio and makes your engine to be a
higher compression engine now, the more
carbon that's inside there
the less space so when it gets
compressed by the piston, the pressure is
higher, so you're actually driving a
higher compression engine in which case
the higher test gasoline will make it
run better, but if you took such an old
engine apart if you wanted to do a
physics test, clean all the carbon off
made it whistle clean and put it back
together, you'd find that it would get
the same gas mileage that it always did
using regular gas, and if you put high
test in, it wouldn't make it run any
better that's just kind of bizarre
consequence of a carbon up engine, things
are not as cut and dry as people often think
they might be, you gotta understand the
whole picture if you're gonna talk about
an aged engine all the things that can
happen inside them, but for a normal car
modern one you've taken care of, it
says use regular gas, use a regular gas
you'll get the best gas mileage using
that, so now you know reasons that your
car can get worse gas mileage, and what you
can do about it, so if you never want to
miss another one of my new car repair
videos, remember to ring that Bell!
How to Tell if Your Car Needs a New Timing Belt
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
today I'm going to show you how you
can tell if your car really needs a new
timing belt now replacing the timing belt
on your car is a pretty expensive
endeavor so you don't want to do it if
you don't have to but you also don't
want to damage your engine, now this
particular vehicle is a Kia Sportage and
if that timing belt breaks it's an
interference engine so the Pistons will
hit the valves and damage the engine now
this vehicle is 10 years old it has
almost 82,000 miles on it so it's
definitely time to change it since the
timing belt is inside here it's very hot
gets damaged over time from heat since
it's made out of rubber it will
eventually crack you want to change it
every 10 years for sure probably every 5
or 6 years they all have mileage
specifications on them but really once
they get old it doesn't matter if this
car at 30,000 miles I'd say it's time to
change that belt because if that rubber
belt cracking breaks the Pistons will
hit the valves and do damage now take my
old 94 Toyota Celica it has a non interference engine, so if the belt breaks no
damage is done you just be stranded so
if you want to be cheap you can ride that
until it breaks it won't hurt anything
and if you have a more modern engine
like this variable valve timing engine
that's in this 2007 Matrix it doesn't
even have a timing belt it uses a metal
chain and as long as you change the oil
and filter regularly that chain should
lasts forever now I've seen dishonest
mechanics in the past charge customers
for a timing belt when they're newer car
actually had a timing chain they charged
them for a job that they didn't even do
so be leery find out if your car is a
timing belt or a timing chain before you
have any work done but this Kia
definitely has a timing belt being 10
years old with 82,000 miles, we're going
to change it out now, now to get to the
timing belt first you have to take off
all the fan belts and the drive belt you
lose from the bolts that hold them and
slide them in and then pull the belts
off, then you unplug the motor mount get
that out of the way
then you unbolt the water pump pulley because
it's in the way so you can get the cover
off the timing belt, then you take the timing belt cover off, there's the timing belt, then
you go under the wheel well and you take
off the nut that holds the crankshaft
pulley on then you wiggle this like mad
back and forth and it will come off
sometimes you need a puller to hook up but
I've wiggled this by hand enough so I
got it off, so now I like getting some
white paint and painting a mark so I
know exactly where it lines up, then you
unbolt the idler pulley so you get enough
play to get the belt off then pull the
belt off, slide the new belt over
then you tighten your idler pulley here
nice and tight then make sure your paint
marks line up, they line up, that's that,
that lines up in the top, and the one I
made on the bottom lines up with the
bottom mark then we put all the timing
cover plastic pieces on and bolt the
crankshaft pulley back on then bolt the
water pump pulley back on then put the
fan belts on, I'm putting new ones because if
you change the timing belt why not change
the drive belts too, then you don't have to think
about any of them for a long time, then
bolt the motor mounts back on and start
it up and see what happens, it's running fine,
so now you know how to tell if you need
a new timing belt on your car and how to
replace it yourself
and remember if you've got any car questions
just visit the Scotty Kilmer channel and
i'll answer them if I ever get tired of driving this motorcycle
Why Not to Swap Your Car’s Transmission
Scotty Kilmer:
rev up your engines, bill camp says, I
got a 2003 Honda Accord Coupe with an
automatic transmission starting to go
bad
I'd like to swap it out for a manual
transmission, how hard would it be and
is it worth the trouble, well let me just
start out to say, it's really not worth
the trouble, to change an automatic to
a standard, you got to change the
computer system, you'd have to cut holes
put in a hole for the gear shift, you
would have to hook up a clutch pedal
somewhere and bolt that on and
hydraulics, it is a giant pain in the butt,
I've had customers do that and they all
after they did it said, Scotty I'll never
do another thing like that again, it
was just too much of a headache, all that
stuff that you got to change out and of
course the transmission is different, so
the drive shafts are different too, you got
to swap them out, it is a pain in the
butt, if you really want one go get a
standard transmission and get rid of
yours
because it is a gigantic pain in the rear
end swapping all that stuff out to make
it work correctly, believe me I've had
people do it and they all said
they'd never do it again, John low says
Scotty do you like FJ cruisers, well you
know I thought they were a cool vehicle,
Toyota stopped making, but I think the
main reason they stopped making them was
because you know they're up high up in
the air they're not aerodynamic, they had
a big 6-cylinder engine they were pretty
big gas hogs, and they just decided to
dump not make them anymore, they're well
made I had customers with them and they're
all
happy and I had some customers that said,
hey
I want to buy a new one but I can't
they're not making them anymore, so I
said well go look for a good used one
they're not that easy to find cuz
usually the guys that buy that type of
vehicle if that's the type of vehicle
they want they're gonna be happy with
the Toyota, you know it's not like well
they bought a car and they didn't really like
the way it was made and what it looked
like and what it did, but people to buy
those things they were looking for
something like that so, theirs really
not the wrong other than they decided
not to make them anymore, CP says Scotty
your thoughts on an 87 Buick Grand
National, okay well those are collectors
items now, people like them and for the
type of vehicle that they are, they're
pretty good vehicles you know, they've
got a lot of room and they got
dependable engines and their
transmissions were pretty dependable,
people that want
type of vehicle that's not a bad vehicle,
now realize if you're gonna get one
that's a stock vehicle you're gonna
paint pretty good money for it because
they've become collective items and that's
you know what it's a 32 year old vehicle
now, since our collector's item you don't
want to buy something like that and use
it as an everyday driver, you want to
take care of it and keep it and insure it
and realize if you insure a classic car
like that you don't drive if you drive
less than like 5,000 miles a year, you can
get pretty cheap insurance on those
things, my customers that drive them, when
they tell me
some of them are only paying three four
hundred dollars years for insurance on them
so it might not be a bad deal,
Garcia says I got an O7 Mustang my
brakes keep singing to the floor,
mechanic says the master cylinder is
good and there's no leaks, one I'd say
find another mechanic cuz it's his job
to find a problem and if he said he can't
find the problem he's not a very good
mechanic, when they sink to the floor
either you got a bad master cylinder or
you have a leak somewhere in the system, could
be anywhere could be in anti-lock brake
system, or you got a bad brake booster
here's the thing that you can kind of
get an idea about the booster is, turn
the engine off, step on the brake with
the engine turned off, if it's rock hard
you start up the engine and then you
step on it at sinks you got a bad
booster and then you'd have to replace
the booster on it, it's a decent test to
see if the boosters is bad, because the
boosters aren't cheap they're relatively
expensive and you don't want to have to put
one on if you don't have to cuz that's an
awful lot of money you're gonna spend
RR says I've got a vehicle
it's Pontiac Vibe and it's running on a
bi fuel LPG and gasoline, the LPG has no
issue but with the gasoline it has a
rough idle when it's warmed up and
gives loss of power at 3,500 rpms and up
it gains back and then it looses, you know
there's nothing wrong with the engine or
the ignition system, because it works
fine on LPG don't you got some kind of
problem with the gasoline running system,
the
first thing I would advise doing would
be to pressure test the fuel pump, the
fuel pump for the gasoline is a
different system than the LPG that's a
pressurized system by itself, gasoline
has to be pumped with pressure with a pump,
pray it's just a weak fuel pump it could
be that simple, if it isn't it can get
really complicated, it could be the fuel
injectors are dirty or the computer isn't
pulsing them right, it has to be
something in that gasoline fuel system
because if it runs perfect on the LPG
everything else
is running fine, so pressure test the
fuel pump first that's the first thing
that I would do, so if you never want to
miss another one of my new car repair
videos, remember to ring that Bell!
How to Install a Hidden Kill Switch in your Car or Truck (Cheap Anti Theft System)
ChrisFix:
Hey guys!
ChrisFix here, and today I'm going to
show how to install a hidden kill switch in
your car or your truck.
And the whole point of this kill switch is to
prevent somebody from stealing your car.
Even if they have your keys, if the kill switch
is activated, they won't be able to start the car.
They can try to hotwire the car, they can try
to jumpstart your car, push start it.
This kill switch is going to prevent the car
from starting no matter what.
The only way to steal your car is going to
be to tow it!
And the best part is this is an inexpensive
thing to install.
It's going to cost less than $10, and it's
going to take less than an hour.
It's super simple, it works on most vehicles.
Even if you already have an alarm system,
this can work along with it.
And it's unfortunate that I even have to
make this video.
I live in a pretty nice development.
It's pretty quiet here, everybody's pretty
friendly.
But recently, we've been having a lot of
break-ins.
People are getting into cars broken into,
they're getting stuff stolen out of them,
There's a few cars that have been stolen
from neighborhoods nearby.
My buddy saved up for a long time to get
one of his favorite cars,
a Honda S2000 in pristine condition,
only to have it stolen and parted out a few
days later.
Not only was he heartbroken about his car
getting stolen,
but that feeling of helplessness and getting
taken advantage of by a criminal was
horrible!
So that is exactly why I'm going to be
showing all of you guys how to install a kill
switch, so you don't have to feel that way.
You don't have to lose your car.
Also, a lot of people are stealing stuff from
garages (don't look at that garage, it's a
mess), so I'm also going to be installing a
SimpliSafe security system.
I've got a camera, I've got a bunch of
sensors, all that good stuff, so the garage
is gonna be protected and the cars are
gonna be protected.
And here's all the tools that you need, it's
super basic.
We have a switch, we have crimp
connectors, we have 16-gauge wiring.
You need a multimeter, crimpers, wire
strippers, heat gun,
and, as always, when you're working on a
car, make sure you wear your safety
glasses.
So enough talking, let me go show you how
to install a kill switch.
And to start, you're gonna want to know the
basics on how this is gonna work.
So the kill switch that we're going to install
is gonna cut the power to the fuel pump relay.
So this right here is the car battery.
It supplies the 12V through the relay into
the fuel pump.
So our fuel pump is pumping fuel into the
engine and the engine will run.
Think of this relay as an on/off switch.
When you put your key in the ignition and
turn it to the RUN position to start your car,
the computer is telling the fuel pump relay
to turn on,
and that is supplying power to the fuel
pump.
So what we're gonna do is we're gonna
splice in our kill switch
right here.
That way, when our kill switch is activated,
it cuts the circuit.
The computer cannot send a signal to this
relay, and this relay will not send power to
the fuel pump.
Therefore, the car won't start.
It's really simple.
All you need to do is find the fuel pump
relay, and I'll show you how to do that right
now.
Now the fuel pump relay is located in
different spots for different vehicles.
It'll be different in this Honda compared to
this truck, and so on and so forth.
To find your fuel pump relay, just check
your owner's manual, check the service
manual, do a quick online search, "1993
Honda Del Sol fuel pump relay location", or
whatever your vehicle is.
In this case, it is right under the dash, let
me show you right down here.
You can see right here is our fuse box.
A lot of the times, the relay's in the fuse
box.
But in this case, Honda puts their relays
back here.
Here are all the different relays.
And this gray relay right here is the fuel
pump relay for this Honda.
Now if you're not 100% sure if this is the
correct relay, one thing that you can do to
test, is to put your fingers on it.
And when we turn the key to the RUN
position, the relay should click on.
[click]
You'll hear the fuel pump run for a couple
seconds,
and then it'll click off because the fuel
pump is primed.
I can feel it, and I can hear it, so I know for
sure this is the correct relay.
Now to disconnect the wiring harness, you
just press in this tab right here with your
fingers, and wiggle this back and forth.
Like that, and pull it out.
Never pull from the wires, always pull from
the connector so we don't damage anything.
And as you can tell, there's a ton of wires
here, so how do we know which one we
need to tap into with our kill switch?
Well, it's pretty easy to figure out.
Let me go show you how to do that now.
So grab a multimeter.
I'm gonna set it down right here.
And we'll start by connecting the black
probe to a ground.
So we need to find a bare metal surface,
like this.
And right here, you can see a nice bare
metal surface which is holding our hood
release in.
So grab your ground wire and connect it
right to that chassis ground.
And now our multimeter is grounded.
And now we're gonna grab our multimeter
and turn it on to DC volts.
You want to set it to 20 DC volts because
12 volts is the highest we're gonna see.
Now we're gonna take our red probe and
what we're gonna do is we need to find
which of these wires is gonna be hot, is
gonna be on providing 12V when the car is
in the RUN position only.
So when we turn the key, we get 12V.
That's the wire coming from the computer
going to this, triggering that relay.
But before we turn the car to the RUN
position, we just wanna check real quick
with the car off if any of these are 12V.
If we find one that's 12 volts, we can ignore
that wire.
That one is hot all the time.
And that's what the relay's gonna connect
to, to power the fuel pump.
So the top right corner is hot all the time,
12V all the time.
We don't have to worry about that one.
Now let's turn the car to the RUN position.
So now with the key in the RUN position,
we're gonna probe each one of these
and just see which one is gonna be our
trigger wire, our 12V.
There we go, so we have 12V with this one
right here.
I just wanna check the others just to
double-check and make sure.
Good, no voltage, and obviously, this one
will be 12V, that's always hot.
So this one right here, I'm gonna probe, I'm
gonna push this in.
That one is 12V with the key on.
If I shut the key,
it goes down to 0 volts.
When I turn the key on,
it goes back up to 12 volts.
So we wanna follow that probe into the
wire, the probe's at the top here.
So it's this wire right here.
You can see that's the correct wire.
That is the wire that is coming from the
computer and then triggering our relay to
turn it on to give power to the fuel pump.
So we need to splice into this wire right
here.
Now before we go cutting any wires any
time you work with the wiring harness,
we wanna go under the hood and remove
the negative cable from the battery.
This will just prevent anything from
shorting out or blowing any fuses.
And it's what you wanna do any time you
work on an electrical system.
Now splicing into the factory harness is
gonna be the part that most people are
apprehensive about.
They don't wanna do it because, well, what
happens if you do something wrong?
But don't worry, this is really easy!
Here's a few quick tips.
First, you don't want to cut near the
connector.
You also don't want to cut near the end
here, you want to cut in the middle so you
have a lot of room on both sides to work
and splice in a new wire.
So we're gonna cut right here.
Good.
So now grab your wire strippers.
These are automatic wire strippers that
makes it nice and easy in these tight areas.
You just clamp down,
and it strips it right off.
So that's one side done.
Let me give you a closer look when we do
the other side.
You just put the wire where you want it to
get stripped.
And the automatic wire stripper does its
job.
Beautiful!
So now that both of our ends are stripped,
we can add our kill switch.
But we're not gonna wanna add the kill
switch right here.
We wanna hide our kill switch which is not
gonna be right next to this.
So when hiding your kill switch, there's two
things you wanna think about.
The first thing, you wanna put it in a place
that's easy to get to.
Somewhere, you don't have to reach all the
way into the glove box every time and
fiddle around.
You're gonna be doing this every time you
go to start your car.
So you wanna make it simple to get to.
Now with it being simple to get to, you don't
wanna make it easy to find.
So you don't wanna just put it under the
dash where the criminal's gonna look.
That's like the first place when they can't go
to start the car, they're gonna feel for
switches down here.
So don't put it under the dash, you wanna
find someplace hidden, someplace where,
you know, they're not likely to look.
The radio's actually not a good idea,
because a lot of criminals when they can't
steal your car, they're gonna try to steal
your radio.
But a lot of people like to put it underneath
the seat, you have to reach somewhere.
It's harder to find.
It's easy to get to.
Another place is the glove box.
Again, if you have stuff in here, it's harder to
find, but it's easy to get to.
Get creative, this is the part where you can
have some fun!
So I'm gonna share with you my spot.
I'm gonna end up having to change it
because millions of you are gonna see this.
But my spot, which I think is a really cool
creative idea is in the shifter boot.
So underneath the shifter boot, we're
gonna find a spot.
You can't see the switch, but you can easily
feel it and turn it on and off.
So that's where we're gonna place our kill
switch.
But again, be creative!
Have fun with this.
Place it somewhere unique.
So since I told you we're gonna put it right
here, this is where we're gonna go and run
our wires from.
So let's take the center console apart.
Since the previous owner never put the
screws back into the console, it lifts right out.
Same with the front part of the console.
Oh, we gotta unscrew the shift knob first.
Good.
Now the console will come out the rest of
the way.
And check this out!
We have a flat surface down here,
and a flat surface up here to mount the
switch into.
Now we wanna unscrew the two screws
holding in the shifter boot.
That's one.
And let's get the other.
Good.
And now the shifter boot comes right out
just like that.
Next, let's grab the switch and match it up
to see if it'll fit.
And that's looking pretty good right there.
So let's make a mark in the middle here.
Then grab a centerpunch and we want to
indent the spot we just marked.
And what this does is it puts a little
indentation.
That way, when we get our drill bit, the drill
bit won't skip around, it falls right into that
indentation, and it won't move at all so it
makes it a lot easier to drill.
So we're gonna start with this small drill bit,
and then we're gonna work our way up to
this bigger one.
So on a slow speed and with some decent
pressure, let's get the first hole drilled out.
Now with the bigger drill bit, let's drill the
hole out to fit the switch.
Good.
Now we can test fit our switch.
Beautiful, now we can add our On/Off
plate.
This is gonna act more like a washer since
we're not actually gonna be able to see this.
Then I'm gonna add a little bit of thread
locker on here just so our switch doesn't
come loose.
And then we have our locking nut which
goes right on the end and we can tighten
this down.
And our switch works great, that's perfect!
The only thing that I'm concerned about is,
these wires right here against this metal
surface.
Over time, they could chafe, and that can
short out, we could break a wire, and then
we wouldn't be able to start our car.
So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get a
little rubber wire protector, and I'm gonna
just slide this over the wires.
I'll slide that down,
And you can see, now it's protected so our
wires won't chafe.
We'll add a little bit of black tape to hold
that in place,
and that is good to go.
Now the last thing we need to do is we
need to make a quick disconnect.
That way, if we ever need to remove this
interior piece, we can easily just disconnect
this.
And to do that, we're gonna use these
crimp-on spade connectors.
All they do is they slide right in, and there's
a good connection there.
And then when you wanna separate it...
They come right apart.
So we're gonna put two of the male spade
connectors on the end here.
But first, let's add some heat shrinking on
each wire.
Then we can push on our spade connector.
Crimp it so there's a good connection, and
so this doesn't come loose.
Move the heat shrink up over the
connector.
Finally, use a heat gun to shrink the heat
shrink.
And do the same exact thing to the other
spade connector.
Push it on,
crimp it,
move the heat shrink up,
and use a heat gun to shrink the heat
shrink.
And there we go, now we have two quick
disconnects, spade connectors that are
properly crimped and heat shrinked on
there.
Alright, so with our switch in, that works
absolutely perfect.
That's so good.
Now we can go and install this back in the
car.
And back in the car, we need to run some
wire.
We're using 16-gauge wire.
And we need to run it from right about here
all the way under the dash to our fuel pump
relay.
So I'm going to put the wire on the shifter
since that's about where it's going to end up.
And it also makes it easier for us to run it
all the way to the relay.
So make sure you have enough wire, then
we can cut it.
And since we need 2 wires, use the wire
you just cut to measure the second wire.
And we can cut it to the same length.
Now let's strip the ends of the wires.
Add heat shrink to both wires.
Then add the female spade connector and
crimp it.
Then do the same for the other wire as
well.
Finally, move the heat shrink over the entire
connector
and use a heat gun to shrink the heat
shrink.
Perfect, and I always like to run wires in a
wire loom to protect it from chafing.
So just press the wires into the loom, and
work it all the way to the end of the loom.
Good, now we can run our wires.
Let's snake this back behind the center
console area
so it's hidden and out of the way.
Then we can connect our switch to each of
the connectors.
Don't worry, the order you connect these in
is not important.
Just make sure the connection is good and
tight.
And I'm going to add some electrical tape
to each connector to make sure it's extra
secure, and it's shielded so it doesn't
ground out by mistake.
OK, so slide the loom all the way up to the
back of the switch so the wires are protected.
Good.
And finally, we can snap our center console
back into place and get the shift knob on.
And let's try out this switch...
Beautiful!
That is such a perfect spot for a kill switch!
OK, now let's finish running our wire to the
relay so we can try this out.
Now when you're running your cable down
here, you want to be very careful.
You don't want to get in the way of the
clutch, the brake, or the accelerator pedal.
So you want to make sure this is up and
out of the way.
So let's get it up and over that metal brace,
then up and over the steering column,
and finally, tuck it behind the fuse box back
by the relay.
And now with the wiring harness up and
out of the way,
so it won't get in the way of anything like
the pedals,
we can connect our kill switch to the wires
that go to the relay.
So here we're going to use crimp butt
connectors.
And when using these, you want to make
sure the copper goes all the way in.
You don't want any copper exposed like
that.
If the copper sticks out into the clear area,
cut it and make sure the copper goes all
the way in, just like that.
Then we can crimp that side of the
connector.
And finally, give it a good tug.
Make sure this crimp is tight and the wire
won't come out.
And that's in there good.
Now let's crimp the other side, and it's the same process.
Push the wire all the way in,
then crimp it,
and finally, we can heat shrink both sides
with the heat gun.
So with that side done, now let's go do the
other side.
We're going to follow the same exact
process, get that crimp connector in there,
make sure there's no copper showing,
crimp down on it nice and tight,
and then double-check to make sure it's in
there good, and that is not budging.
Now we can do the same thing to the wire
back here.
And you can see right away the copper end
is WAY too long, so let's trim it.
Then add the butt connector.
Perfect, crimp the connector nice and tight.
Then do the pull test, and that's not going
anywhere!
So let's heat shrink it for a waterproof seal,
and the last thing I want to do is wrap the
harness in electrical tape to make it neat.
Finally, we can push the connector into the
relay, and make sure you hear a click.
Like that.
Also, don't forget to reconnect the negative
cable of the battery so we can test out our
kill switch.
Alright, with that battery connected, I didn't
install the center console because if there's
any issues, it makes it easier, we just have
to pull this out
to make sure we can fix whatever the issue
is.
I don't plan on there being any issues, but
it's a good practice when you're working on
cars, don't put everything back together
until you test it out.
And that's what we're about to do right
now.
Moment of truth, we're in neutral.
I think the switch is deactivated, so it
should be ready to start up.
[Engine starts]
Alright, it starts right up.
Foot off the clutch, and we're good to go.
Now I'm going to shut the car.
I'm going to flip our kill switch.
And I'm going to start her back up.
[Engine cranks]
Woo, baby!
Now that is what I'm talking about,
and a criminal is going to be like, "What
the heck?!"
"Why won't it start?"
[Engine cranks]
Pumpin' the gas, nothing.
Flip that kill switch.
[Engine starts]
Starts right up!
Oh man, that is exciting!
So let's finish this install up by adding our
last center console piece.
And there's a screw in here I'm going to
tighten down to hold the console in.
Perfect, with the center console in, our kill
switch is in.
Going to activate that so nobody can go
and start my car.
We are done installing the kill switch, and
there is one more thing to do.
And that is to install a home security
system to protect my tools,
to protect my car, basically everything in
my garage.
And it's actually pretty cool how I got this
security system.
I posted on my Instagram asking you guys
what do you do for security systems in
your car to prevent your car from getting
stolen because of all these break-ins.
And SimpliSafe actually commented on my
post and they sent me out this entire home
security system, so thank you SimpliSafe
for supporting this video and sending me
out an entire security system.
So now let's get this installed real quick.
And the goal obviously is to protect the
garage and the new vehicle that I'm going
to be putting in the garage, also the
vehicles outside.
And this is very easy to set up.
If you can put a kill switch in your car, you
can easily add another effective and
reliable layer of security.
Especially with these motion sensors and
this glass break sensor.
And the feature that I've been wanting real
bad is a security camera.
And I have it pointed to the most important
part, my driveway, so I can keep an eye on
all my vehicles.
And I think you guys get the idea.
Now I'm going to install the rest of this off-
camera so you don't have to watch me.
I did check online because this was sent to
me.
I wanted to see how the pricing was and it
was pretty fair, they also have no
contracts, and finally, I do have mine
monitored by professionals.
So if somebody breaks in, they will call the
cops and the cops will come, which is good.
So all my cars, my tools, all that stuff is
protected.
Now we have all the cars, I need to put kill
switches in the rest of them, but all of the
cars have kill switches in them and then I
have a security system ready to go.
And the reason why besides people
breaking in recently,
The reason why I did this...
...was because I ended up buying my
dream car!
This mid-engine beast with AWD is
something I've wanted since I was a little
kid, and I had to protect it.
[Series of engine revs]
And I will unveil my dream car in my next
video, so stay tuned for that.
I think you guys are finally understanding
why I've been getting so crazy with the
security stuff, with a home security
system, installing kill switches in your
vehicle.
I hope this video helpful, I hope you learned
how to install a simple kill switch.
Very cheap, very effective.
If the video was helpful, remember to give
it a thumbs up.
If you're not a subscriber, consider hitting
that subscribe button and turn on that
notification bell for more how to videos like
this.
And as always, all the tools and products I
used in this video
are linked in the description.
Stay tuned!
The Best Cheap Scan Tools You Should Buy
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three four!
rev up your engines!
it's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel,
welcome to mechanic Monday,
on a rainy Monday,
today I'm going to answer the question,
and inexpensive scan tools any good,
now being a mechanic for the last 50 years,
and being a famous YouTuber,
I've tried out scores of inexpensive scan
tools over the years,
and basically I can tell you about the good,
the bad, and the ugly,
I've had some that when you plug it in nothing
happened at all,
I've had some when you plug them in it gave
you data that made no sense, and then it would
say stuff like, oh if you find problems with
our tool, please tell us about it so we can
make it better,
and I found some like this Ancel, that costs
$39 that actually work really well for what
they do,
for example, this does obd data,
you just press enter and it goes into the
data,
it even does graphing data, this is graphing
data for the ignition timing,
this vehicle has a problem with the ignition
as you can see just idling the timing is all
over the place when it should remain steady,
it does the I/M checks to see if it will pass
state inspections,
and these are even color coded green means
it's good and orange means that it's not ready
yet,
so it's got 1,2,3,4 not ready yet,
so this would not pass inspection,
you can look up trouble codes on it and see
what it means,
that's the code that this vehicle has,
you actually get a lot of information for
$39,
now there are even more sophisticated lower
priced scan tools like this Blue Driver that
works on a phone app,
it can even do Mode 6 data like professional
mechanics have, this particular one is $99,
but for $39 some little scan tools do a lot,
and since this is a mechanic Monday,
I'm giving this Ancel away,
just post a clean non-offensive comment in
the YouTube comments below and a computer
will randomly pick a winner and you'll get
this tool free,
and since entropy is the end state of all
matter, that's a fair way to pick a winner,
thanks for watching this video and good luck
in the contest,
so if you never want to miss another one of
my new car repair videos, remember to ring
that bell!
A11065GP Used 2008 Toyota Camry LE FWD 4D Sedan Gold Test Drive, Review, For Sale -
McCluskey Chevrolet:
Check out this 2008 Toyota Camry.
It has about 113,000 miles on the odometer.
This all Gold Toyota Camry, gets great gas
mileage.
Up to 28 miles per gallon on the highway.
Under the hood there is a 6-speed automatic
electronic transmission with overdrive.
There is a 6-speaker sound system along with
AM/FM radio and a CD player.
There are fully automatic headlights, a panic
alarm and outside temperature display.
There is also 4-wheel disc brakes, along with
ABS brakes and dual front and side impact
airbags.
Come on down and try this vehicle out before
you buy it with our free 48 hour test drive.
A10606GT Used 2016 Chevrolet spark Black Test Drive, Review, For Sale -
McCluskey Chevrolet:
Check out this 2016 Chevrolet Spark, it has
about 26,000 miles on the odometer.
It gets up to about 41 miles to the gallon
on the highway.
And under the hood it has a 1.4L CVT transmission.
There is about 26,000 well maintained miles
on the odometer.
The USB port and auxiliary input jack along
with SIrius XM ready radio will be available
for your entertainment through the 4-speaker
sound system.
The dual front and side impact airbags are
also there for your safety.
Other features include electronic cruise control,
speed control and remote keyless entry with
a panic alarm button.
Come on down and try this vehicle out before
you buy it with our free 48 hour test drive.
Once you buy it we will cover it with our
free lifetime mechanical warranty for as many
years and as many miles as you own it.
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