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Chevy Volt 2017 Review: An Electric Car With A Gas Assistant

MrMobile [Michael Fisher]:

Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive

WeberAuto:

Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching

2017 Chevy Volt or Tesla Model 3? Review of Volt.

The 8-Bit Guy:

Most of my viewers are aware that I love technology
and I've been driving a 2013 Chevy Volt for
quite some time. And I've been watching the
information coming out about the Tesla model
3, which appears to be a really cool car.
I think I'll go out and buy one. Oh, wait
a minute. That's not a Tesla, that's a second
generation Volt. So, yeah, after test driving
the new Volt I really decided there was no
real good reason to wait 2 to 3 years in order
to buy a Tesla Model 3. And, you know, when
I look online, on youtube for example, there
really just aren't any good reviews of the
Chevy Volt. And you know, my go to channel
for watching Ev related stuff is, of course,
Robert Llewellyn's Fully Charged show. I'll
put a link to it down in the description.
And since he lives in the U.K. he can't really
review a Volt so I just decided to take it
upon myself to do a proper review of this
car. A lot of people think that the Volt "is
just a hybrid like the Prius, Right?". It's
not. "It shares a lot of similar technology,
so it must be the same, right?" Well, you
know what? Mila Kunis shares 96% of her DNA
with a Chimpanzee, but which one would you
rather take home
with you? Other people think "it's just an
electric car that can only drive 53 miles
before stranding you!" Wrong! The Volt is
one of the few cars that can run either on
electric or gasoline. Now, since I've owned
an EV for several years, I'm well aware of
the three big questions that people always
ask. And those are: How fast, how far, and
how much? In the words of Chelsea Sexton.
How far, how fast, how much. These are the
three questions we're getting, please put
it in the advertising, it's not rocket science.
So I'm going to start by tackling those 3
questions. I'm going to start with number
one: HOW FAST? Now, where can I go to do a
proper test of this car? Oh, I know, how about
the drag strip? All right, I am in line. And
a little nervous, I've never done anything
like this before. It's kind of hot in here
because they say you can't have your air conditioning
on and I need the windows up because it's
so freaking noisy outside. So for the first
time I wanted to go full out, all electric
mode. Well, at least I know I'm not the slowest
car at the track.In my first time to run down
the track, I wasn’t even sure if I was supposed
to go, so you’ll notice I actually let off
the accelerator temporarily, which undoubtedly
hurt my time. I guess my screw up didn’t
matter because the scoring system wasn’t
even working this time so I couldn’t even
see my time. Well, here's something I don't
do every day. So I got in line again, and
this time I ended up by myself. I’m still
doing EV mode this time. I had to roll down
my window down and it messed up my camera,
which I didn’t have time to fix. I got my
ticket, and here’s the result.So the 3rd
time, I put the car into hold mode, which
means it will run on gasoline, to see if there
is any difference. And I ended up with a souped
up pickup truck next to me this time. For
some reason my interior camera wasn’t recording,
so I don’t have that angle to show. I noticed
right away the car was slower off the line
in this mode. And the results here confirm
that. So this is reaction time, and yeah..
I suck. But I can’t be too hard on myself
being this was my first time. Also this time
has no effect on the rest of these numbers
I’m about to show you. This is how long
it took to get to 60 feet. You can see EV
mode was much faster. But what is more interesting
is comparing this to other cars. For example,
look at the different Tesla Model S. You can
see that the Volt fits right in here, actually
being faster off the line than a base model
Tesla. And this is how long it took to get
to 330 feet, again EV mode being faster. And
this was the speed the car was traveling when
it reached 330 feet. This shows how long it
took to complete the 1/8 mile strip. Again,
EV mode being faster. And finally, the speed
I was traveling when I hit the end. Now what’s
interesting here is that gas mode was actually
faster here. Indiciating that when in gas
mode there may more power in the upper speeds,
even though takeoff power is less.OK, so definitively
answer how fast this car is, well it's plenty
fast. In fact, it's quicker off the line than
most cars except for legitimate performance
cars. So, I don't think there's going to be
any problem with how fast it is. OK, so to
answer the question of how far it can go.
Well, when I tell people that it can go 53
miles, sometimes they reply and go "is that
all?" And you know, I think a lot of people
just don't have a good conception of how far
a mile is, much less 53 of them. I think a
lot of people just fill up their tanks, run
it
until it goes empty and fill it up again and
they don't really pay attention to how far
they've driven. So I've devised a little trip
to help you better understand exactly how
far this car can go in electric mode. I live
in the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. Now to
give you an idea of how large this metro area
is, here's the state of Connecticut overlaid.
So DF/W is essentially the same size as the
entire state. and by sheer coincidence, if
you were to start at the far end of loop 820
and drive to the far side of 635 it is exactly
53 miles. For my trip, I'm going to start
in downtown Fort Worth, sometimes referred
to locally as Cowtown. I'm taking a stroll
through the Watergardens. This is an amazing
place, I recommend people visit. And for those
nerds following my channel, you might recognize
this from the Cult sci-fi classic Logan's
Run which was filmed around here. And I'll
take a short walk back to my car, which I
have at a public charting station at a Walgreens.
The reason for this is that I wanted to start
my journey with a full charge. As you can
see on the dash, it's fully charged. And if
you look here, you'll see it reset our trip
meter to zero miles and zero kilowatthours
used. Arlight, so we just left downtown Fort
Worth and I'm headed towards Dallas. Now,
I'm going to try to do the speed limit. Which,
we're going 70 miles per hour right now, I
don't even know... oh look, the speed limit
is 60! I guess I had better slow down. Because,
you
know, I want to be realistic with this trip.
And you know, electric vehicles are kind of
opposite of gasoline vehicles. They actually
perform better in city traffic at lower speeds,
as far as efficiency goes. So if we're doing
a range test, driving out here on the highway
is going to put it to a pretty realistic test.
Because, if it will go this far on the highway,
you know it will go that much further in the
city. So we left Fort Worth and headed towards
Dallas. All right, we're about half way between
Fort Worth and Dallas and I'm going to take
a little detour here. Just right off the freeway,
I want to show you another little important
landmark of Dallas/Fort Worth. I'm going to
stop by the Dallas Cowboys stadium. At this
point, you can see I have travelled 16.1 miles
and the car is telling me I can still travel
another 43 miles on battery power. So here
we are at the AT&T or the cowboys stadium.
I'm not a big sports fan, but I've been told
that this is the best place to come during
tornado season because there's no chance of
a touchdown here. Unfortunately, it looks
like we're going to get stuck in some traffic,
which is not normal for a Sunday. So, we were
stuck in the traffic jam for about 10 minutes,
which didn't really hurt our range test since
EVs are actually more efficient in this sort
of traffic. So after a long drive, we were
finally approaching downtown Dallas. All right,
so we have arrived in downtown Dallas. Now,
we have travelled 36.1 miles and we have been
on the road for an hour and ten minutes. And,
we have used just a little over half of the
range of the battery and it's still saying
I have 19 miles left. Now, there are some
charging stations in this area, but I've decided
not to use them because that would kind of
defeat the whole purpose behind what we're
trying to do here. We're trying to see how
far it goes until it runs out. So I'm not
going to charge up. So I decided to get out
and walk to another interesting landmark just
down the street. This is the Kennedy memorial.
This is the location of the assasination of
John F. Kennedy back in November of 1963.
The shot came out of one of these windows.
This little X in the street is the actual
location of Kennedy's car when he was shot.
Then we left Dallas and headed back to Fort
Worth. We made it about this far before the
car ran out of battery power and seamlessly
switched to gasoline mode. OK, so we just
switched over to gasoline power. it was seamless,
just driving down the road, didn't have to
do anything. We did travel 49.1 miles on electric.
It is kind of hot outside today. We've been
running the air conditioner pretty hard, so
that probably did eat a few miles of the range
off. And so to really answer the question
how far it can go. Well, if you drive in gas
mode, it can go as far as you want it to go,
and you'll get a whopping 42 miles per gallon
while using gas, so on to the next big question.So,
Chevrolet lists the base model starting at
$33,220. But looking at my window sticker,
you'll see I have a base model with a few
upgrades and mine cost $36,735 Of course,
I didn't pay anywhere near that much for this
car. In fact I wouldn't even be able to afford
the car if I had to pay that much for it.
You see, I started off with a generous discount
since my father is a retired GM employee.
Then I got another $500 off because I had
a competing lease on a Nissan Leaf that my
wife was driving. And then I get $7,500 off
of my taxes from the federal government. So
I just loaned myself $7,500 from my savings
account, which I will get back at the end
of the year when I do my taxes. And so the
amount I actually paid for the car puts it
right in the same ballpark as a Prius. And
according to Chevrolet's website, you can
lease one for $299 per month with no money
down. So why anyone would buy a Prius instead
of this, I have no idea. Another extremely
common question that I get is is how long
does it take the car to charge? Now, that's
a perfectly valid question but it's also extremely
annoying because there's no one specific answer.
There's so many
different variables that account for how fast
it takes to charge. For the Volt it charges
is 4.5 hours from a commercial charging station,
or a 240V station in your garage. Now keep
in mind that's 4 and a half hours assuming
the battery has to charge from empty. But
let's be honest, with 53 miles of range, it's
probably pretty rare that you will be charging
a completely empty battery. More realistically
most people will probably be around half full
at the end of the day when plugging in, which
means more like 2 hours to charge. Now if
you decide to charge from the included 120V
charging cable, that plugs into any standard
outlet it can range from 13 hours on a 12
amp socket to as much as 18 hours on an 8-amp,
again assuming you are starting with an empty
battery. Now,
unfortunately, the Volt does not support DC
fast charging. If you take a look at some
commercial stations, you'll notice they will
have a regular 240 volt connector that works
in pretty much any electric vehicle. But some
will have this larger connector, notice the
extra prongs! Using this, you'll count the
charge time in minutes rather than hours.
But like I said, the Volt doesn't support
it. And, you know, I think I know why. I believe
the thinking at General Motors is that it
is, after all, a Plug-in Hybrid.It has a gasoline
engine so it's not like you're going to be
stranded. You don't absolutely need to have
the fast charge feature. And to be honest,
you need a reason to run the gas engine every
now and then because if you don't the car
will actually force you to burn a little bit
of gas to keep it from going stale. In fact,
the only reason fast charging is
even a topic of discussion on this car can
be attributed to the fact it has such a large
battery compared to other plug-in hybrids.
Only one other hybrid has more EV range than
the Volt. I mean, nobody even talks about
having fast charging on any of these other
hybrids because the range isn't long enough
to matter. Oh, and one more thing. Officially
speaking, this charger that comes with
the car is only supposed to support 120 Volts.
However, many people online have found that
this particular charger that comes with the
2016 and 2017 Volt, is actually capable of
running at 240V just by putting an adapter
on this cable and plugging it into a 240V
socket. At which point, you can charge twice
as fast although still not quite as fast as
a full fledged level 2 charger. However,
General Motors does not officially acknowledge
this and there's no guarantee all of the chargers
are the same, so I would try that at your
own risk. Now , My car is a base model So
there are a lot of features like adaptive
cruise control, for example, that I can't
show you because I just don't have them. But
it does have LED headlights, which you pretty
much have to experience to really appreciate,
and of course it helps save on some battery
power as compared to traditional halogen lights.
Also the interior lights are LED and there's
also little LED accent lights in places such
as the door handles. In fact, it looks really
cool at night. It's as close as you'll ever
get to being in a space ship. It has a lighted
charge port that flashes along with the indicator
on the dash to let you know the state of charge.
1 blink is 1 quarter full, 2 blinks is half
full, then 3
quarters, 4 blinks is almost done, and a solid
light means it is fully charged.The center
console does support Apple CarPlay so you
can plug your iPhone into it and certain apps
that support the feature will appear on the
display. The most helpful one is maps, of
course. I didn't even bother to buy satellite
navigation in this vehicle. And you can see
why. Of course, I'm a cheapskate so I wouldn't
have paid for it anyway. Now over time, more
and more apps are going to support this. Of
course, it can play MP3's from a USB stick,
but that's nothing new, my old Volt would
do that. But, what's interesting is what it
lacks - which is a CD player. Not that I'm
going to miss it anymore
than I would miss having a tape deck in my
car.The main instrument display is really
cool. Down here on the left, it shows an estimate
of your EV range remaining. Along with a bar
graph here giving a visual representation.
Over here, this shows your energy usage on
battery power. So when I punch it hard, you
can see the power move up, and when I regenerate
power, you can see it go down. Also the very
top shows you exactly how many kilowatts you
are using in realtime. This is very similar
to the meter you might have on the side of
your house. Now, of course, on the other side
you have your fuel tank graph, and the number
of miles you can travel on fuel if you desire
to
switch over to gas. And of course, the engine
has its own little power reading as well,
which only moves in one direction, showing
the power output. It will also show all kinds
of different information, even bizarre stuff
like coolant temperature. And if you change
stations on your radio, using the steering
wheel controls, it will show that. If you
change the volume, it will show that. And
there's a whole menu of customizable features.
The little climate control knob is cool. Of
course, it has heated seats and a heated steering
wheel, which will help save you range in the
winter if it means you can avoid running the
cabin heater which really sucks a lot of battery
power. The smartphone app lets you do some
cool stuff like start your air-conditioning,
check your available battery range, and many
other cool things. It will even let you locate
your car on a map, like your own personal
lojack. I also had my friend Rob, who's very
tall try out the front seat to see if it would
fit well for him. OK, so I'm 6 foot 5 and
for a car this size, this is really cavernous.
I'm actually very comfortable. No knees hitting
the steering wheel. This would be an easy
car for me to drive. And I was able to get
this entire basket full of stuff into the
hatchback with no problems. So I had been
waiting for Elon Musk to reveal the Tesla
Model III. Now, Elon says its going to be
revolutionary since it is a great looking,
great performing electric car with long range
capability and will sell for $35,000. It sounds
great. I wouldn't mind having one. But its
at least 2 or 3 years away before I would
be able to get one. Yet, the truth of the
matter is, the 2017 Volt is available today
and already fills all of those check boxes.
Now, I'm not saying the Volt is better than
the Model III. In fact, we won't really be
able to make that determination until the
Model III comes to market. But what I am saying
is that if you are waiting 2 to 3 years to
buy a car that just fits those particular
check boxes, wait no longer. Go buy a Volt!

Chevrolet Volt Concept

Cars.com:

I'm Patrick Olsen for cars.com we're
here at the Detroit Auto Show at the GM
booth
looking at the Chevy Volt GM's new
electric car concept we talk to GM
representative Tony Posawatz about
the car
Tony can you walk through this car is
different from hybrids another of your
car's
I'd like to say it's an electric
vehicle the Chevy Volt
drives completely and entirely using
GM's Eflix electric propulsion system
so its electric vehicle that only
requires
an engine generator turn on to create
more electricity
so its electric vehicle with
battery-powered that can go
forty miles for most customers that's
what they drive
forty or less they would use no gas when
you go beyond your forty miles
we create electricity on board by by
utilizing an engine generator set
burning a little bit of fuel to create
more electricity
so you can go about 640 miles how does
the plugin work
a plugin ports are located here it's a
110 volt 15 amp
so no special equipment is required and you what you have to do then
is wait about six hours overnight what will
the difference be in cost to consumers
electricity costs off-peak rates a lot
less than fuel probably about one-fifth
the cost the fuel
what's different about the interior this
car than other cars that you guys have
produced
Interestingly enough the interior of the
vehicle
has the opportunity to viewed upon
from the outside the vehicle
with the very unique GE plastics
composite panels we have so you can seefrom the side shot of the vehicle
the vehicle has both a low and
tall beltline tall beltline stylus love
a low beltline allows for great
visibility for passengers
and for the driver for safety
perspective so we can see the very
unique contoured seats
we can see a fascinating cluster display
that makes the experience of driving it
advanced technology and fuel-efficient
car real alive for the customers
Tony how long before consumers could
see this car in their driveway
we've we're going full speed ahead in
the vehicle side were a little concerned
that there is no battery that exists
today to help because it's very very
much dependent on a very big battery
but we're encouraged by the progress
that we've seen a look and I am
batteries without battery is ready in a
few years
will be ready when we what we think is a
very exciting revolutionary vehicle
thanks Tony you can see more on Cars.com or our blog
kicking tires.net

Electric Chevy Volt Runs Out Of Gas - Becomes Dangerous

superspeedersRob:

What's up spaghettios?
No, no, I don't know, I'm going with it. Uh what's going on guys the. Today I'm going to run my Chevy volt out of gas
it's an electric car that also runs on gas and
I've heard that when it runs out of battery it defaults to gas, but when it runs out of gas and battery
There's like a secret reserve
It's like that extra stomach that you have for dessert the car supposedly has it. It'll run another eight or ten miles of like
We know you suck at estimating stuff. So here you go
Here's a little extra for you to get where you have to go
So in order to do that without being stuck on the side of the road I'm going to just put it into the mode that
And I'll show you in a second put it in the mode that then selects it to run on gas while
I'm not using my electric
And when I run out of gas, I will then default to electric so I can continue on
I'm sort of curious to see what happens when I run out of gas
So this mode button here
switches from Normal this Sport, Mountain, and then hold. Hold is what will turn off my
Electric motor and allow me to run purely on gasoline
so I ran my volt out of gas just cuz I wanted to see what would happen and
As you can see this fuel level low, but there's no fuel
Its propulsion power like... step on the gas doesn't really go anywhere
Engine not available, add fuel.
It actually reduces the propulsion power which sucks because like I tried to merge onto the highway thinking that okay
It's an electric car. I have no gas, but I will rely on the battery and
They reduce the performance of the car. Which is actually fairly dangerous in my mind
Because I tried to accelerate on to the highway and that didn't work very well, and I almost I had to drive on the shoulder
Because I didn't realize it was going to be that sluggish, and that's not cool
I wish there was a way to stop that or they should at least tell you
That propulsion limited modes like warning if you run out of gas we were going to limit your propulsion
And it will become dangerous all of a sudden
Alright, let's just see
how
Limp-dick this thing is now
zero to sixty full full Throttle
this is flat to the floor
All right
the
That's not really safe. 0 to 60 in, I would guess that's about 13 seconds, but we'll see what the videotape says
all right fillin 'er up and
I didn't realize how dangerous that exercise was going to be
eight and a half gallons
First start, after fuel, and it runs the engine because it's so happy
I don't know why it's running the engine.
it's in normal mode the engine should be off, but
i Guess it's just cleaning the pipes
now
Yeah, buddy
back in business
So long story short. I don't really get it. I don't get why an electric car
I get that it's an electric car that when it runs out of electric and runs on gas
but when it runs out of gas
It should just run on electric gas is supposed to be a backup here, putting it in limp mode to me is silly
I don't know why they do it. I'll let somebody I'm sure the comment
I'll pin it when I see it, but I'm sure there's some rationale behind it but to me that
Was surprising I wasn't expecting it. I wasn't expecting my car to become
Sort of a
danger to myself
Just because I ran out of fuel. Now to be fair
You have to put it in a mode to use the gas before the electric
Otherwise you'll always use all the electric before you lose
you start using gas but that even when I started it up
Having no gas in the tank even with a full battery this thing would be limp mode which stinks. This thing sucks in limp mode.
Catch you next time. Thank you for watching hope you learned something if you didn't learn something and
Don't know what to tell you

❤️⚡🔋OPEL AMPERA/ Chevrolet Volt 2012❤️COMO FUNCIONA?🔌💡

HCTA:

Good afternoon everyone! Welcome to my cana, l my name is, Alex
Today I want to show you in this video how the electric car is loaded.
PLUG-IN with the charger that comes standard with 16 amps, come with me!
Knowing that we have a 220-volt, 16-amp plug here
We approach and parked our car next to the plug.
Let's go for the charger,
Now
we open the trunk
This is the charger
is prepared for 220V v is, 16 amps for this type of car.
This here, buy separately.
If you have the opportunity to charge your vehicle at work using a 220V plug it is great.
if not, we can charge it at any outlet at home.
16 amps
let's catch
the cable connect this end
in the plug, and the other, extreme
What comes with the car type-1
To the port here. There are two options to open
The lid opens: from inside the car.
Ah
What do we have here below
Opening
From the electric charging lid or the lid on the other side of the car to pour gasoline.
pressing this button,
It opens automatically.,
The lid, it opens
There is also another option
is to take the key
and open by pressing button on command.
there is a drawing
of a plug.
tightening the plug
the lid opens ...
now!
It's ready, for the load. Very good, once
We have removed the cable, untangled from this charger
this cable, the first thing we have to do, is: plug 220V
to our
takes 16 amps. Once you plug in
it will appear
in green this light
information that, all the electrical voltage that reaches the plug
It is correct
if it had red light:
It would mean that: some cable is with problem, the ground cable could also be with problem
here it would change color, red
red, informs us of a problem.
with electric current of the car
or once the vehicle detects a problem
Automatically jump the electric box automatics.
From home
I know this problem because it happened to me in one place
where it is not properly connected to the ground
in the house and once I'm plugging in the plug
here he always appears
Red
I plug in the car to charge it in 10- 5 minutes
it detects the computer of the car that there is no ground, no electricity passes and it gives a short-circuit.
and what it does, is to cut electricity
From the automatic, from this 16 amp socket
Here I want to show you an example:
of the problem
of the plug
once we connect, it appears green, the same in principle - green, but over time, it detects a problem. Inside there is a sensor detector.
Detects: phase and neutral wires are connected well, but the ground is wrong
is not, is not doing its function is not well connected
then it goes red
and no current passes to the car it is protected
warns us, that there is problem. It is wrong some of the wires of the toms on the wall.
Try this charger on another plug, and if you load it elsewhere without problems ...
and in some of the shots it does not charge, it changes in red color
Then it means that: your Gargador is fine, what is wrong, is the socket or some cable.
Here is an example:
But in this case once we
connect
Knowing what is good installation
it also has a detector inside and detects it, that yes the installation is well prepared
here you can charge as for four hours of total charge, also for two hours - half charge
total charge
It depends on the load you need, for 25 kilometers or you need
for 50 kilometers In my case, I, I am going to charge, at full load.
for 50 km. the other end we press the button to
Remove this insurance that is up here
to be able to enter and once we introduce
a light comes on
this particular light has to change in green
when it changes into green and makes this noise (beep)
Green light informs us: it is now passing electricity and is charging the car
When you have problems with grounding,
this light changes color: red
or in color: yellow
but if you have a problem, it really stays in color: red.
Then, your installation has some problem.


What I want to show now
It's how the security or Alarm of your car jumps. When the car is parked and is loading, and you have gone out to do the purchase
This charger is very easy to remove and steal it. In situations when charging in a socket:
on the street or in some public parking, public parking. It is always advisable to have some kind of security
invent it, put some kind of security in this extreme
so that it is not so easy to remove and carry the cable
but if you are not very far from the car and
You can hear your car alarm once your charger is stolen.
they take away the plug: from this side or from another side. Detector detects that there is no electrical current
nobody deactivated car alarm with the command
then the computer detects, that the cable
It is taken away, it is forced, it is stolen.
and it detects that someone is carrying their cable and jump alarm. Let's make an example:
look: the car is closed.
closed the car. And now let's proceed
to press the button
and remove, move cable out.
and ..... jump alarm ......
6
All right, I turn off the alarm so it does not ring anymore and it does not attract much attention
You have seen it!
the car has detected that someone has removed the cable without opening without unlocking the car without unlocking the control unit
I already skipped the car gun.
that is very good, great. and is well prepared - good security
Very good, you have seen
that there is a security system in case someone wants to take their cable and if you are against it is somewhere nearby
you can avoid the theft of your cable
I also know people who have invented their own inventions to ensure the theft of their car chargers
some
candalo, a lock
some kind of insurance to avoid it
theft of the cable
Lock the car plug, which can also be done. There are quite a few videos on the internet
people, invent some blockade.
Later I'll search and make a video too, to protect my charger.
Very well. we'll see
the battery has been charged, but no,
until the end, but there is already load. We press the brake pedal, Press the START button
the car is activated, it works automatically
It is lighting:
Front glass performance is switched on automatically heated seat.
All right, we have loaded 42 km is fine so let's see
How does this car drive,
in electric?
once you press the READY button
This one here, and now you can activate the march
Forward (D)
and releasing the brake, the car already starts moving alone
Squeezing a little accelerator, there is no noise, you can not hear anything
You do not hear anything, nothing, nothing
Of the noise
Only the nails of the tires are heard.
I will have to change these tires already, the snow has already been removed and I am with these tires.
there is no snow
we are almost in the spring
Do you know what I like in this car? Is changing MODE DRIVE,
and activate
sport
It gives all the car power to 100% electric motor activated.
ha..ha..is great
What emotion, yes sir, I like ...
the noise made by the electric motor is impressive, it seems ...
Now we do it again
awesome, I like it
Look, we accelerate now
I love..
Completely in electric.esto that is impressive, without any noise, without polluting
I like it. It looks like energy, when we slow down it flies from the battery
and enter the electric motor
and when, we release the acceleration pedal
the wheels are charged battery.
When we accelerate
Battery spends energy
sends the electric motor and now releasing the accelerator the battery is charged, rolling the car
Very interesting
and this car
is manufactured
in 2012
Take this technology
More than 6 years, we are in 2019
SPORT, I like it.
100% electric, of course driving like this, will spend
and download your battery very fast, but that's what it is and I love it,
Awesome.
I'm totally stopped. I will accelerate and see how it is ..?
imprective
Awesome
I have to try driving an electric car, it's another world, it's different
Y
Look at the ball, which has gone up when we accelerate
Now we accelerate again to see the ball ... what fun
very well
Very well I hope you liked the video
you have seen that we have learned to use the charger with the car and plug into any 220V plug
at 16 amps, it's easy and plug into any plug
what's out there installed and can be loaded
Thank you very much for watching the videos and thank you very much for subscribing to my channel and if you have not done so yet
subscribe not to lose my new videos.
see you soon.

Say GOODBYE to the Chevy Volt

Teslanomics with Ben Sullins:

- Now next I have something which is,
I don't know I have mixed
feelings about this.
GM, General Motors here in the U.S.
they are killing off the Volt which is
the plug in hybrid electric vehicle.
The P.H.E.V. as you will see it called,
which I believe gets maybe 20-30,
maybe a little more than that miles
purely on the battery then
it switches over to gas.
They are also killing the Cruz
which is a small sedan and the Impala.
So they are just getting rid of these.
Now we have already seen Ford to this,
Ford recently cut I think
almost all of their sedans
with the exception of maybe the mustang
and are just focusing on trucks and suvs
as well as they are planning on coming out
with some electric vehicles is
what they have been talking about.
So we will see kind of how that goes.
Now this was a part of a
15% layoff that GM did.
So, I believe that's close to
15,000 people or over 14,000 people.
Now this is despite them
doing relatively well
and beating last quarters
Wall Street expectation.
So interesting, now they
are saying that they
expect car sales to slump in 2019
and we have been hearing this a lot
until you look at Telsa sales and you see
them skyrocketing, so
you know you have that.
Now it's also a part of the GM strategy to
prioritize investment
into self driving cars
and EV's which means
they are cutting the plug
in hybrid electric vehicle
the Volt but keeping
the Chevy Bolt which is
the fully electric one
that does go 248 miles I think on a charge
and costs right around $35,000 depending
on your options and those kind of things.
So that's actually a really legit car,
electric car that's out there.
I know it hasn't really sold that much
the styling isn't for everyone but
I reviewed it and I mean
it seemed great to me.
It wasn't a Tesla by
any stretch of the means
but it was a great option,
it was like if you were
looking at another car and
that one it definitely works.
So as a part of this they are going
to be closing five plants,
five facilities as a part of what
they are calling the restructuring.
Now Senator Sherrod Brown
of Ohio publicly blasted GM
for it's plan to close down
the Lordstown Ohio plant.
Of course the President
of the United States
tweeted as he does often saying
that he is very disappointed
in GM and their CEO Mary Barra
for closing these plants,
you know lots of rhetoric going on.
Then he goes on to talk
about we are now looking
at cutting all GM subsidies,
which include electric cars
which by the way they get a lot of other
subsidies as well in case
you guys didn't know that
in terms of tax breaks
and things like that.
And so this was interesting but it also
kind of opens a door and this
is where I think it becomes,
is interesting for Tesla because
they could buy one of these facilities.
I mean imagine what kind of
Cinderella story that would be.
This is what happened with the Nummi plant
which is previously what the current plant
in Freemont California was called
which was I believe a joint
venture between Toyota and GM
and during the great recession that
we had in 2008-2009 is when
they had the opportunity to buy
it for literally dirt cheap.
I believe prior to that Tesla
was looking at a factory
in Texas so this five
plants, I believe four plants
and one other facility are closing
but a huge amount of them are
going to be available here
so if I were Tesla I would
be seriously looking at this
as an opportunity, because this
could make a huge difference
in their profitability as well as the
acceleration of some of their vehicles.
(jokingly coughs) *ahem* roadster
and so I am curious to see what happens,
I am curious if you guys or
anyone you know is affected
by this please leave a
comment, hit me up on Twitter.
I would love to hear that
story because it is sad,
I mean losing jobs here
because of strategic moves
by a big company is one of the
plagues of corporate America
and the society and the system of commerce
we have built in the United States.
It even goes back to Reagan laying off the
FAA flight instructors or
air traffic controllers
so its one of those things where it sucks
but hopefully some of
this can be rebounded
and pivoted into newer
technologies that are helping
us move towards a more
sustainable way of living
that's kind of my thoughts on it
leave me a comment let me know
what you guys think down below

2015 Chevrolet Volt: How to Connect Bluetooth

Bachman Chevrolet:

In this video, we are going to show you how
to connect your phone via Bluetooth to the
2015 Chevrolet Volt. With the Chevy MyLink
system, you can easily make calls, send hands
free text messages, and listen to streaming
music.
From the home screen, hit the Configure Button
on the console. Scroll to Phone Settings,
select Bluetooth, and scroll to "Pair Device".
Meanwhile, open the Bluetooth settings on
your device, and select the Chevrolet Volt
connection, and when prompted, select pair,
making sure the PIN number on your device
and the vehicle are the same. Your device
should now be connected and will sync your
phone contacts and messages.
From the home screen, select the phone icon
and you can access your contacts, place calls,
and even send text messages, all through the
Chevy MyLink system. In call mode, you can
end, mute, and add new people to calls. And
while texting, you can listen to new messages
and send prewritten responses.
In order to stream music from your device,
hit the "next" button at the bottom of the
home menu, select Bluetooth, and start the
media you wish to play on your phone.
For more videos on the 2015 Volt and other
Chevrolet models, subscribe to our channel.

Chevrolet Volt 2016 Review | TestDriveNow

Steve Hammes New Car Reviews:

For the vast majority of Americans, electric
cars simply don’t make sense, whether the
issue is driving range, vehicle size or financial.
But the Chevy Volt is the most sensible solution
for those galvanized by the prospects of electric
driving without the range anxiety. And now
in its 2nd generation, the Volt conducts itself
in an even more electrifying manner.2016 Chevrolet
Volt PremierHybrids, plug-ins, electrics,
fuel cells, range extenders…is there any
doubt as to why today’s car shoppers are
so confused buy the myriad of choices? Most
don’t care nearly as much about how this
stuff works as they are about the benefits
– nor should they. What does it cost, will
it save me money and will I like driving it
– that’s the bottom line approach here.
And this new Volt gets a price cut of more
than $1,000, saves another $150 per year in
fuel costs compared with the previous model
and takes that next big step in refinement.
It’s a very likeable car that also looks
sleeker while retaining its signature Volt
identity.You can view the Volt, as the EPA
does, as a plug-in hybrid, using both electricity
and gas for propulsion. GM calls the new 1.5-liter
4-cylinder engine a range extender, because
in essence, the Volt is only driven by electric
motors. Once the battery runs out of enough
juice to power the car, the gas engine fires
and you continue to motor for up to 420 miles.
At that point you can either find a place
to recharge the battery and/or pull into a
gas station like a regular car. Of course
unless you can find a free charging station
– and they do exist at grocery stores and
the like – electricity also has an associated
cost. So the EPA rates this Volt at 106 MPGe
– that’s miles per gallon equivalent for
electric driving and 42mpg once the initial
EV driving is over. That’s an increase of
between 8% -13%. This is thanks in large part
to a number of innovations to the all-new
Voltec system, including a lighter, smaller
lithium-ion battery with greater storage capacity,
and a lighter, more efficient 2-motor drive
unit providing a greater than 20% improvement
in electric acceleration.On a cold 25-degree
morning like this, the fully charged battery
delivers about 45 miles of pure EV driving.
Now, in perfect conditions, that number can
be as high as 53. That’s up from 38 miles
on the previous model.On paper, that’s how
it works. But northerners will experience
a bit more engine intervention when the temps
are cold – say in the mid-30s and below.
So a Volt owner in southern California is
going to get better mileage than one in New
York – that’s just the way of the EV world.
But during this mostly mild week, the majority
of my trips were accomplished without any
gas as 80% of Volt owners can already attest,
getting around 1,000 miles between fill-ups.
I don’t have a 240 volt charger so filling
the car’s battery takes about 13 hours.
If you do, it only takes 4.5 hours. You can
monitor all of this through a smartphone app
and via the green light on the dash. By the
way, the illuminated charge port is an option
I’d choose as it can be difficult to properly
place the plug at night. And the portable
charge cable now stows more conveniently in
this cubby above the load floor.If you’ve
never driven an electric car you’ll immediately
fall in love with the quietness and effortless
acceleration. And with the use of a new 2
motor system, this Volt is noticeably quicker
than before. 294 pound-feet of torque get
you moving immediately, enough to press you
into the seat. Meanwhile the gas engine, best
referred to here as the generator, nets you
better mileage once the battery is depleted
and no longer desires premium gas. From a
driving perspective, this Volt is more polished
with a stronger body structure lending to
better ride quality.It’s not that the previous
Volt was poor, but this car appeals to all
of the senses in a much more mature manner.
Though the brake pedal has a lot of travel
before stopping, the new system feels incredibly
organic and incorporates a new Regen button
on the steering wheel that acts like a brake
when descending hills to better recapture
otherwise lost energy for the battery. The
steering is sharp, you can feel the road,
and though the fuel saver tires give up pretty
easily, there’s a joy to driving this car
in a non-EV like manner that’s actually
quite satisfying. The Volt is obviously most
impressive and enjoyable when the engine’s
not on – some of the car’s polish and
mystique is lost once it is.The Volt is a
compact and it’s pretty tight inside, particularly
in these rear seats which are borderline acceptable
for adults. But you’ve got to be kidding
me with the advertised 5-passenger seating.Cargo
room is quite expansive with a huge hatch
area and seats that fold flat and the front
seats, though lacking power operation even
on this top trim are snug but comfortable.
The cabin as a whole is a huge improvement
over the previous car’s rudimentary design.
Quality, fit and finish all go much farther
and the electronics are out of this world
good – including Apple CarPlay, OnStar with
a built-in 4G WiFi connection, a highly customizable
information display and all kinds of electric
car-specific goodies. Heated seats all around,
remote start, a heated steering wheel, multiple
USB ports, wireless charging capability, beautiful
blue ambient lighting – it’s exceptionally
well done and thoroughly thought out. It can
park itself, brake if you don’t and alert
you to all kinds of potential dangers. And
I’m beginning to love auto high beams.Pricing
starts at $34,000 while this highly optioned
though not fully loaded Volt Premier stickers
for $40,225. These numbers are before you
take a $7,500 Federal tax deduction. Compared
with the average new vehicle, the EPA estimates
that the Volt will save you $3,250 in fuel
costs alone over 5 years. The run of 2016
models is very limited so it’ll be the 2017
model year before the Volt’s nationwide
rollout. This is GM at its best, flexing its
engineering muscle and showing that the company
is ready for whatever the future of driving
may hold.

2016 Chevrolet Volt | CarGurus Test Drive Review

CarGurus:

Hi, I'm Chris Wardlaw for CarGurus, and
this is the redesigned 2016 Chevy Volt.
If you're already a fan of this car and
you know all about the technology that
powers it, let me cut to the chase - the
Volt is better than ever, but it's not as
futuristic in terms of its exterior
styling, and despite the inclusion of our
rear center seatbelt, it's still really
only suitable for four people. Now for
everybody else, if you've never paid much
attention to the Volt, but you're
interested in learning about what makes
this card different from plug-in hybrids
and pure electric vehicles, you've come
to the right place. Let's discuss. The
Volt is one of my favorite cars because
it represents a bridge between gasoline,
the fuel everybody uses today, and whatever fuel we're going to be using in the
future. Now personally I'm a big fan of
fuel-cell technology like you see in the
Toyota Mirai. The problem is that the
fuel-cell infrastructure barely exists
and that fuel isn't 100% green yet. With
the advent of solar farms and wind farms
and clean green electricity, maybe
battery-powered vehicles will be what's
in our future, especially considering
that Tesla and Chevrolet, starting next
year with the 2017 Bolt, have electric
cars that will go 200 miles or more
on a single charge. Maybe electricity is
the future.
But the problem with pure electric
vehicles is that eventually you have to
recharge them, and recharging takes a lot
longer than simply pulling into a gas
station and refueling a conventional
automobile. Plus if you do have a
charger bank somewhere near home or your office or wherever you happen to be
shopping, and you arrive, and there isn't an
open slot, you can't recharge your
electric vehicle. The brilliance of the
Volt is that that doesn't matter. The
Volt eliminates all of that range
anxiety, because it operates as an electric
vehicle, and then if the battery is
depleted and you can't get it charged, it
just switches over to a gasoline engine. But
wait, you're thinking, doesn't a plug-in
hybrid vehicle basically do the same
thing as the Volt? Yes, but the difference
here is that plug-in hybrid vehicles
typically have about half the amount of
electric range that the Volt does. What that
means is when you buy a traditional
plug-in hybrid vehicle, you're going to
spend more on gasoline then you will
with the Volt. In fact, Chevrolet says
that based on the ownership experiences
of people who have the first-generation
Volt, most people are going to be able to
go about a thousand miles between
fill-ups at the gas station as long as
they're regularly recharging the car. Let's talk about how the Volt's unique powertrain works.
There are three main components here. First is a 1.5-liter 4-cylinder
gasoline engine that's tucked right
here under the hood. It works in
conjunction with
an 18.4-kilowatt-hour lithium-ion T-shaped
battery. The battery sits under the car -
it runs under the center console and
then branches off behind and beneath the
rear seats. The battery powers a dual-motor electric propulsion unit that
drives the front wheels. Now altogether
these components give the Volt 53 miles
of expected driving range depending on
how you're driving and the topography, and
then after that, the gasoline engine
kicks in, and it basically supplies power
to the battery, and then the battery sends it to the electric drive unit. There are
circumstances where the engine will
actually send power directly to the drive
wheels, and that's when you're powering
up a mountain grade or maybe you've got
the powertrain in Sport mode and you're trying to pass somebody, but under other circumstances
this vehicle operates as an electric car.
Now the way to think about this
4-cylinder gasoline engine is this:
Let's say you live in the midwest
somewhere and a storm comes ripping
through, knocks the power out, and you've
got a gasoline fuel generator in your
garage. What you're going to do is you're going to get that baby out, you're going to fire it up,
you're going to connect it to the house, and
then your family's back in business.
Same story here, same concept here.
Now all together, once you've depleted
the battery and you've run the fuel tank
dry, you should be able to go 420 miles between the two
components, so that's your maximum
driving range. At that point you've got to find
either an electrical outlet or a gas
station, but the beauty of this car is
you can get in it right now today and drive
from California, where we are right now,
and I can be in Maine in three days, and
I never have to plug it in. All I have to do
is visit the gas station. Okay, now that we've got all the basics out of the way, let's talk about
the actual test vehicle that I'm driving
today. It's the top trim level - it's the
Volt Premier. It's got both option
packages that add all the safety
technologies, and it's got a navigation
system. The price tag including the
destination charge was $39,830. Now, that's pretty
expensive for what's basically a small
5-door hatchback with an unusual powertrain. But
here's the thing - every Volt buyer is
eligible for a $7,500 federal tax credit,
and I don't know what it's like in other
states, but here in California you can
also get a $1,500 rebate, so that brings
the Volt's price down pretty significantly.
My recommendation to you is if you're
thinking about getting a Volt, go to
Chevy's website - they've got all the details for all the different states right there on the website. Then you'll
have a real good idea what you're actually going to be paying for the car. So there are four different driving modes
that you can choose from with the Chevy
Volt. You've got Normal, which is pure EV
until the battery is depleted; you've got Sport, which calibrates the powertrain to give you
a little extra energy; you've got Mountain,
which helps you power up steep grades;
and then you've got the Hold driving
mode, which holds electric propulsion. Now
the Volt is fairly quick - you can see we
just left a red light and
here we come up on
60 miles an hour. So right off the line it
feels super fast - you can spin the tires
really easily - and then it kind of plateaus,
so you know the acceleration curve looks
kind of like this. I have little kids at home, you know - I do that stuff all the time.
Anyway Chevy says 0 to 60 happens in 8.4
seconds. That's quick - it's not fast, but
when you take off from a stop, boy does this thing feel speedy. I mean it's no Tesla
Model S, okay, so don't get all cocky and
think you're going to win a drag race, but the Volt is
pretty quick. It gets out of its own way,
it leads the pack, it has no trouble
merging onto a freeway. So with all the
battery weight that's in this vehicle, it
weighs between 3,500 and 4,000 pounds. That's pretty significant for a vehicle this
size, but it's all mounted really low in
the car, so the Volt feels really snugged
down to the ground, in fact it's kind of
got a... it's not an unpleasantly
stiff and choppy ride, but it definitely
doesn't just glide down the road. The
tires unfortunately are designed to
maximize range. They're not designed to
maximize grip on pavement, so this
isn't really a car you want to go
ripping down a mountain road in,
even though it's got all this...
the center of gravity super low,
maybe if you put on a set of aftermarket
wheels and tires you might want to do that, but not
with what comes stock from the factory.
Another you need to know if you're not
already a fan of the Volt is it really
does drive just like a normal car. It's
got a normal shifter, it's got normal steering, normal pedals.
Everything is very intuituve, it's comfortable - you get in here you automatically know how to drive. It's not
like the previous Volt, which was all
futuristic. This is very conventional, and
I think that for Chevrolet to expand the
Volt's appeal, it's necessary. As far as the interior goes,
this is a pretty snug car. Now I am
impressed by the range of travel for the
front seats. If you're over 6 feet tall,
don't think you're not gonna be able to
fit in a Volt, because you might. The
problem, of course, is the same problem
that the previous Volt had, which is
a really tight rear seat. Even though it's
a bench now instead of two buckets, it's
really only suitable for two people. Even
my kids complained when they got into
their child seats - they were complaining about the
lack of leg and foot space that they had. Now as far as cargo space is concerned, that's pretty
small, too. This is a hatchback - it's got
folding rear seats, so that helps, but
behind the rear seats
there's only 10.6 cubic feet of cargo
capacity. Now I've got a full-size
suitcase back there right now, and you
can put two of those side by side and
maybe a couple of duffel bags on top, but
if you put too much stuff in the trunk,
you have to move the little fabric cover,
and that lets people look right
through the hatchback and into the
trunk to see what you're carrying.
Now as far as other technology with the
Volt, my test car's got the latest version
of MyLink. Graphically it's really
pleasing, it's got a faster processor, so it
responds quicker to inputs. I really like
this system - it is rapidly becoming one of
the better infotainment systems on the
market.
My test car is equipped with two driver
confidence packages that add a whole
bunch of safety technology to the car, and believe it or not they're each only $495, so
for less than a thousand bucks, you get
forward-collision warning, automatic
emergency braking, a blind-spot warning
system, rear cross-traffic alert, lane-departure
warning... blah blah blah blah blah. It's
really pretty amazing that they offer
all that stuff for less than a grand. Now
unfortunately the federal government and
the Insurance Institute for Highway
Safety have not crash tested the new Volt
yet, but the previous Volt did pretty
well, because after all, structurally it's
pretty robust, so I'm anticipating that
this new one is going to do pretty well as
soon as it gets crash tested. Now
theoretically you could buy a Volt, you
could never charge the battery, and you
could just enjoy a compact 5-door
hatchback that gets 42 miles per gallon
in combined driving. I have no idea why you
would do that, but hey, it's your life.
The point of buying a Volt is so that
you can have an electric car for daily
driving, but one that doesn't spark an
iota of range anxiety. What's range
anxiety? Well, it's the panic that
electric-car drivers feel when their
range drops and they can't find a
charging station, because when the
battery's out of charge, an electric car
just stops. You know how your kid freaks out
when her smartphone's almost out of
charge?
Same thing. Now for most of this past
week, I've been plugging the Volt in at
home, charging it overnight using the
standard 120-volt charge cord that tucks
into a storage bin inside the cargo area.
At a maximum if the battery was
completely depleted, it would take about
13 hours to recharge it fully. If you
upgrade to a 240-volt home charging
system, you can cut the recharging time
down to four and a half hours. When you're away from home, you can use 240-volt Level 2
charging stations to replenish the
Volt's battery. You cannot use DC fast-
charge stations, which charge other types
of electric cars up to an 80% charged in
less than half an hour.
This Volt, which belongs to General
Motors, is set up with a ChargePoint account.
I downloaded the app onto my phone, and
using it I can find charging stations
that are not currently in use,
reserve a station, and even navigate to a
station using the navigation system. Just
like you might swipe a credit card at a
gas station, you can scan a ChargePoint
card to activate the charging station
and then plug the connector into the
Volt. Using your ChargePoint account
settings you program a text or an e-mail
alert when the car is completely charged,
and then you just scan the card again to
deactivate the charger and then you
disconnect. So while charging stations
are not as plentiful as gas stations, and
not by a long shot,
the actual process of activating one and
recharging the car isn't that much
different. So using the ChargePoint app,
let's go visit the electric vehicle
charger that is closest to my house.
Okay, so we're at the charging station
that's closest to my house. It's across the
street from the library in the town
where I live, and it's a really poorly
maintained unit. The screen is kind of
foggy and scratched up. In the sunlight I
can't even read it, and I don't have high
hopes. And as you can see the charger's
even just laying in the dirt, so let's
check this out. This is where ChargePoint
directed me - let's keep that in mind. The way this is supposed to work is you're supposed
to scan this barcode, and it's supposed to
activate the charger, but there's no
obvious way to do that here, so I don't
know if I should do it here or here... This
screen doesn't respond, I mean there's no
easy way... I don't know, I don't have high hopes
here. So let's... let's see if I plug it in...
maybe it's a free one - let's find out.
Okay, the car's not beeping. Usually the car will beep when the power is flowing into the batteries, so I
really don't know what to make of this,
but this underlines something that's
really important to keep in mind. If I
were driving a traditional electric car,
and the battery was really low, and I was
feeling range anxiety, and this is where
I got directed, and this is what I came
across, and I wasn't able to charge my
car, I'd be freaking out right now.
But because this is a Volt, I don't have to worry
about it. At this point maybe you think
the Volt isn't that big a deal, and maybe
you're right, but what I love about this
car isn't the styling, it's not the
quality of the interior or even how it
drives, from my perspective the great
thing about the Volt is that it provides
enough driving range to legitimately
serve as an electric car for most of
your daily driving requirements, yet you
can get in it right now and do a cross-country trip and not once have to worry
about finding a charging station. The
Volt virtually eliminates range anxiety.
Like I said before, the Volt is a perfect
bridge to the future, whatever that
future is.
Be sure to check out my full review of
the Volt on CarGurus.com, and if you found
this review helpful, please share this
video and subscribe to our YouTube
channel. For all of us at CarGurus, thank
you for watching.
The problem is that fuel-cell infrastructure doesn't exist anymore...