How Chevrolet Get Its Name - Damino Media

How Chevrolet Started, Grew & Became $11.5 Billion Company

Success Secrets TV:

How Chevrolet Started, Grew & Became $11.5
Billion Company
The name Chevrolet originated from a Swiss-born
American racer Louis-Joseph Chevrolet, who
founded his company with William Durant in
1911, stayed for four years and then left
his own company to Durant in 1915.
The Chevrolet Company previously called the
Chevrolet Division of General Motors Company
and simply called the Chevy is the automobile
department of General Motors, a manufacturing
company in the United States.
How Chevrolet Began
Twenty years before Chevrolet, Durant was
the founder of a successful Durant-Dort Carriage
Company which manufactured horse-drawn vehicles.
And so Durant wouldn't even touch a car with
a ten-foot pole, let alone allow his daughter
to ride in what he called, "loud and dangerous
horseless carriages."
But as time passed he realized that there
were more cars than carriages on the American
streets; an experience that did not settle
well with the relatively tentative public.
As the government regulated cars for their
safety, Durant had other ideas.
Why not improve the security of these cars
instead?
In 1904, Durant approached a struggling Buick
Motor Company and became its controlling investor.
Within a span of four years, Durant demonstrated
his salesman attitude and transformed Buick
into a leading automobile name amongst the
likes of Ford, Oldsmobile, and Cadillac.
For Durant, however, it was only the start.
Durant figured he could further improve his
odds in the industry if he built a holding
company that would control several automobile
divisions, with each division manufacturing
their own car.
With the Buick's outstanding profits, Durant
had sufficient capital to found the General
Motors Company in 1908.
A year later, General Motors acquired several
car brands like Buick, Oldsmobile, Cadillac,
Elmore, and others.
Unfortunately,Durant got so carried away in
his "automobile acquisition crusade" that
GM suffered cash shortage with their sales
losing to Ford's.
And so, in 1910, General Motors showed Durant
the exit door.
But Durant did not give up.
Having regained his bearings, he reunited
with an old colleague from the days of the
Buick motor company, Louis-Joseph Chevrolet.
Durant knew the Swiss-born American as a man
whose competency for car mechanics matched
his passion for racing.
In 1909, Louis had participated in the Giant
Despair Hillclimb.
An oddly apt name, considering the Hillclimb
race was less about the racers themselves
and more about test-driving the competing
car brands they drove.
Therefore, when Durant offered a chance to
build more automobiles, Louis couldn't resist
signing his name on the dotted line alongside
Durant's.
In 1911, Louis co-founded the Chevrolet Motor
Company with Durant.
Durant used Louis’ racing status as a means
of building a motor company, and his way of
getting back at General Motors.
The first Chevrolet car, the Series C Classic
Six was designed by Etienne Planche with directions
by Louis.
The prototype was ready before the company
was incorporated even though the production
didn’t happen until 1913 where it was introduced
at an auto show in New York.
In 1914, Chevrolet redesigned its logo.
And so a "bowtie emblem" logo was used on
Chevrolet’s first produced cars in 1914:
the Chevrolet H series and L series models.
That same year, Durant and Louis argued about
their differing intentions for Chevrolet’s
future car designs.
Durant wanted simple and affordable cars that
would surpass those of Fords.
On the other hand, Louis preferred playing
it fast and loose, with luxury or racing cars.
These differences split these two associates
and Louis sold his shares of the company to
Durant.
Now alone at the helm, Durant was able to
focus on his next winning car design.
He achieved this in 1916 when the cheaper
Chevrolet Series 490 finally outpaced Ford
in sales and cemented Chevrolet’s place
among the big automobile names.
To say Chevrolet made huge profits during
this period would be a severe understatement.
Durant revisited General Motors as a controlling
investor, purchasing their stocks, which gave
him the leverage to launching himself into
leading General Motors once more.
By 1917, Durant had become the president of
General Motors.
All was right, now that Durant's "big automobile"
dream was back on track.
And of course, his first directive was merging
the highly successful Chevrolet into the parent
company General Motors as a separate division.
How Chevrolet Grew
In 1918, Chevrolet launched a new V8 powered
model, the Series D for open two-seat cars
and the touring cars that could seat 5 passengers.
These models didn't sell well though and they
were scrapped by the next year.
Given Chevrolet's successful track record
in the market, General Motors rebranded and
sold their commercial grade cars and trucks
as Chevrolet with similar appearances with
the Chevrolet’s vehicles in 1919 from Chevrolet
factories located in Flint, Michigan.
The automobile company built several branch
assembly plants in New York, Ohio, Missouri,
California, Texas, and Canada.
Somewhere between the 1920s and 1940s, Chevrolet
would see Durant's vision for "producing simple
and affordable cars" come true.
In fact, Chevrolet, Ford and Plymouth were
known to Americans as "the low priced three".
During this period, one of Chevrolet's most
notable cars was the Stovebolt introduced
in 1929, which was tag-lined "a six for the
price of four".
This and several generations of the car model
blew away the competition of Ford and Plymouth.
In 1953, the Chevy Corvette, a sport’s car
with two seats and a fiberglass body debuted
to become the first mass-produced sports car
in the United States, championing the "America's
Sports Car" appeal.
The appeal of the Corvette and other Chevrolet
passenger cars would be enhanced with the
first-time introduction of Rochester Ramjet
fuel-injection engine as a high-performance
option for the price of $484.
The Chevrolet small block V8 car design made
its debut in 1955 and remained in circulation
longer than other mass produced engines around
the world.
Modifications to the V8 engine including the
aluminum block and heads, the electronic engine
management and the port fuel injection gave
birth to the designs in production today.
In 1958, Chevrolet introduced the Impala series,
which went on to become one of the best-selling
American cars in history experiencing popularity
during the 60s and 70s.
The parent company General Motors introduced
Chevrolet to Europe in 2005.
With rebranded cars manufactured from the
General Motors branch in Korea acquired Daewoo
Motors.
The economic depression between 2007 and 2010
hit Chevrolet hard.
But the road to recovery began in 2010 with
the introduction of fuel-efficient cars and
trucks to compete with foreign automobile
manufacturers.
Within the same year, Chevrolet introduced
the plug-in hybrid electric vehicles, Chevrolet
Volt in America, which was sold under the
name Opel/Vauxhall Ampera throughout Europe
with a record 5,268 units soldand became the
world's best-selling plug-in hybrid electric
vehicle (PHEV) car in 2012, winning the award
for the North American Car of the Year, European
Car of the Year and World Green of the Year.
The series was then named the combined Volt/Ampera
that was sold across the world.
It exceeded the 100,000 unit sales milestone
in late 2005 and eleven years later the Volt
family of vehicles had become the world's
best-selling plug-in hybrid as well as the
third best selling electric car after the
Tesla Model S and the Nissan Leaf cars.
In 2011, Chevrolet set a global sales record
of 4.76 million vehicles sold worldwide
In late 2013, the Chevy brand was withdrawn
from Europe by General Motors leaving the
Corvette and Camero lines.
In 2016, Chevrolet unveiled the first affordable
mass-produced all-electric car the Chevrolet
Bolt EV.
This car too has won several awards.
Where Chevrolet Is Today
Chevrolet now has its headquarters in Detroit,
Michigan, and operates throughout 140 countries
in North and South America, Asia, Australia,
South Africa, and Europe with over two million
vehicles sold annually in the US alone and
a brand value of $11.5 billion.
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Chevrolet | Wikipedia audio article

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2018 Chevrolet Malibu AT LTZ Review - Behind the Wheel

AutoDeal.com.ph:

Debut in the 60’s, it was name after a
coastal community in California
Sadly it’s named however in the Philippines
as the butt of some jokes
as people like to add a G to the end
Sorry
Now on their latest generation, Chevrolet says it has
better fuel efficiency connectivity and safety features
more than ever before. Let’s find out what they are going on about
In this, the 2018 Malibu
The HID’s with Intellibeam are housed in a smaller frame
which compliments the smaller slats that are found
all over the front clip. Now, there is no large gap to speak of
to allow the air in but the four mentioned slats are equal to the task
Unique to the car, are the lights down here which are
your actually DRL’s and too is the emblem, the very proud emblem
I should say because it is textured and ribbed
Sorry but it does feel very cool
Even the keys emblem has texture
Nitpick if I may there is just one aspect on the front clip
that I don’t really appreciate
There’s a line that can be found on the hood that stretches
all the way down pass the emblem and to the chin
How much does it bug me? Well, not that much
Down on the side you’ll notice two lines that begin at the front doors
and slowly but surely taper as you get to the rear
Given the car a very streamlined, very fluidic look
Now the car does sit on 18-Inch mags fitted with 45 series tires
Now if you take that and combined it with this
beautiful fastback right here and this sharp departure angle
it does make for a very good looking stance
Now for some, the rear overhang might be much but
there is good reason for that
In fact, there is 447L of reasons, now it’s not the largest capacity
in this class but it’s certainly not the smallest
Space good enough that that can hold Professor Klump
However, getting him in that might be a problem through this
Renee Zellweger lips, kinda tight
Golf bags even two, not a problem. Medium sized suitcases
Not a problem however anything larger than that
You might need Steven Tyler lips and that’s a completely different story
Oh! Worth mentioning, the two exhaust, tucked away very nicely in chrome. Very nice touch
Now the toys back here include 2 cupholders on the center armrest
You got 2 air vents right here, 2 USB charging ports and a 12V socket
There are also speakers on either door and 2 more speakers behind the passengers
Now that’s 4 out of the 9 speakers in total inside the car
Now, the wheelbase of this car is actually 4-Inches longer
than the previous model which is checkout this legroom
It’s ridonculous. There’s enough space in here to fit
two large adults easily and even an average size adult in the center
Thanks to the low tunnel found in the ground
Safety? Yup! Apart from the standard airbags found upfront
There are also airbags found on the B pillars and either side of the rear seats
Not bad
The color scheme is the first thing that may not catch your attention
because it’s pretty subdue really
its got grays and browns, very comfortable, very laid back
Now your 4 gauges upfront and your trip computer
along with the air controls are, well they’re pretty adequate
as too are the buttons found on the steering wheel
different though in the fact that they’re all the same height
covered by a thin rubber film so that it is non-slip that’s pretty cool
You also got your dual pane sunroof and your 2 cupholders upfront
and loads of cubby spaces that you can put all your knick knacks
Including actually a very smart way to put your umbrella away
Now, not only are the front seats comfortable
because they can knock Vincent down in 5 minutes or less
but they can also accommodate much taller people
Now, you’d expect the driver to have power right
Well, the passenger seat has power too, in fact both of them can move
back and down to accommodate much taller people
and not only does the driver have lumbar support, so does the passenger
The lumbar support comes out so much that it can be like a basketball
at your back say put it at number four and it can retract all the way in
to the same number of wins that the Cavs have in the 2018 finals, which is zero
I’m gonna get flanked for that aren’t they? Meh, it’s the truth
The 8-Inch screen which also doubles as your reverse camera by the way
and is extremely clear I must add, also has the Mylink system which is a
breeze to use, in fact we find that it’s one of the easier head units that we’ve ever had to test
On any of the units that we’ve gotten, it’s really fun to use
and while you’re using it, you can also charge your phone
with the wireless system down here, it might be difficult for bigger phones
such as a Note or anything larger than that, but the smaller wireless units, not a problem
The one thing that I have to add about this unit is that
The whole thing is integrated into dash very very well
it doesn’t stick out like a sore thumb and that I gotta say
that I do love
Under the hood, there’s only one engine variant available in the Philippines
which is an inline 4 2L Turbocharged gasoline engine
which produces 250horses and 353 Nm of Torque
in an executive sedan, not bad
but even with all that power, in and out of the dreaded weekend traffic of Metro Manila
The Malibu was still able to do 10km/l. Frugal
Apart of the ease of which Chevy’s Mylink is just a joy to use
whether your an Apple user or an Android user and it also has 9 speakers
that’s around the car which are all Bose, louder than kids on a Saturday morning
it also has the following technologies
Its got adaptive cruise, its got lane keep assist, emergency braking
and semi autonomous parking to name a few
Oh! And get this, there are also 12 sensors all around the car
so that even Catherine Zeta Jones could not escape these guys
The level of comfort driving Malibu is well, is pretty good
The steering is light yet it’s not disconnected from the road
Yes, there are some cheap plastics that can be found all around the cabin
and the road noise does kinda creep up just a little bit
But it does not take away from the very comfortable leather seats
As a driver you have really very little to complain about
and even much less as a passenger
There are no paddle shifters to speak of, in fact it’s a bit confusing
when you run your fingers down the back of the steering wheel
where you’ll find audio controls
Now to manually change gears and provide you with a more sport feel
Pop the transmission into L which activates the plus minus selectors on the shifter
Fuel efficient? Check. Safety? Big check. Connectivity? Check
the Chevrolet Malibu LTZ is available at P2,131,888
Now it’s a bit pricey yes I understand, not the cheapest thing out there
But it’s also not the most executive sedan available in the Philippines
And you do have to consider that you do get a boatload of toys for the driver
Now, it does also gives us the consumers something that we do
very much appreciate, an option
And regardless of what I think about that line
Yeah, it’s a good looking option

Chevrolet Impala

Audiopedia:

Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive

WeberAuto:

Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching

2019 LA Auto Show: 2021 Chevrolet Trailblazer | Consumer Reports

Consumer Reports:

Chevrolet is bringing back
the old Trailblazer name,
adding yet another
choice for buyers
looking for a subcompact SUV.
The Trailblazer is Chevrolet's
new entry-level two-row SUV.
And its positioned
between the Chevrolet Trax
and the Chevrolet Equinox.
But despite the name,
this Trailblazer
isn't designed to,
well, blaze trails.
Two engines are offered.
It's available in both
front and all-wheel drive.
Inside, the Trailblazer
has lots of hard buttons
and seemingly simple controls.
It also offers wireless Apple
Carplay and Android Auto.
The cargo area comes with a
60-40 split fold-down rear
seat.
And if you need to
carry really long items,
there's an available full
flat front passenger seat.
Standard safety features include
forward collision warning,
automatic emergency braking
with pedestrian detection,
lane-keeping assist, and
lane departure warning.
Pricing starts at under
$20,000 will go on sale
in the spring of 2020.
For more on SUVs, check
out ConsumerReports.org.
[SNAP]

2019 Chevrolet Blazer: First Drive — Cars.com

Cars.com:

When Chevrolet told us that they were
going to be introducing a new 2019
Chevrolet Blazer we got very excited. We
thought hey cool here's a new 4x4 meant
to go up against real serious
off-roaders like the Jeep Wrangler or
the new upcoming Ford Bronco but that's
not exactly what Chevrolet had in mind.
Instead they've introduced the new
Blazer as a five passenger two row
premium crossover vehicle meant to go up
against things like the Ford Edge or the
Nissan Murano. Now it's got the V6, it's
got all wheel drive but it's also got a
very sporty version in the new RS that
you see behind me. We came here to San
Diego, California to get a better look at
the new Blazer, to drive it and to see
exactly what Chevrolet is brought to the
new crossover party. You can have your
Blazer in one of a few different flavors.
The base model comes with a standard 2.5
liter four-cylinder engine making 193
horsepower and 188 pound-feet of torque
mated to a 9 speed automatic
transmission. Front wheel drive is
standard on all Blazers but if you want
all-wheel drive you'll have to bump up
to one of the V6 models, you can't get it
with the four-cylinder engine. This base
model is peppy and agile, has a decent
interior and features most of the
dramatic styling that makes the new
Blazer a real standout on the streets.
The front end bears a definite
resemblance to the more sporty
Chevrolet's like the Camaro but the
headlights are a little unusual.
Those lights up high on the fenders are
just LED running lights, the actual
headlights are HID projector style units
down in the bumper. All Blazers have a
floating roof design first seen on the
Nissan Murano many years ago but now
copied on to just about every automakers
new SUV. The overall effect is attractive
however especially if you get one of the
more standout colors like bronze or
bright red. Add the V6 to the basic
Blazer L and you'll get what Chevy calls
the Blazer V6 trim available with either
cloth or leather interior or spend a
little more coin and get one of the two
top trim levels, the Premier or the RS.
Both come with General Motors
omnipresent 3.6 liter v6 engine making
308 horsepower and 270 pound feet of
torque. Like the four-cylinder it's mated
to a 9 speed automatic sending power to
the front wheels. All wheel drive is
optional on all these six trim levels
but the Premier and RS trims get a
special dual clutch all wheel drive
system instead
of the more basic single-clutch system
in the lesser models. The Premier gets
a monochrome exterior paint job with
body-colored bumpers and fender trim as
well as 20-inch wheels. The RS gets a
sportier look with black out fender and
window trim, a more aggressive black mesh
grille and black painted 20-inch wheels.
21 inch wheels are an option on both the
Premier and RS trims. Inside the
influence of the Chevy Camaro is clear
from the design of the multimedia system
atop the dash to the big round air vents
that also control the temperature. The
Blazer looks decidedly sporty-er than
any of its competitors like the Ford
Edge or Nissan Murano. The more luxurious
Premier trim has some decent luxury
touches inside like unique leather dash
trim while the RS goes for a racy
two-tone look. Both have acceptable
quality trim on the dash and center
console but that material quality falls
off on the door panels and in the
backseat.
I will give Chevy credit for keeping the
height adjustable seat belts, something
they've been removing on new models
lately. The interior is comfortable up
front with plenty of width and height to
the cabin. This is a bigger SUV than the
compact Equinox crossover. It's almost as
wide inside as the much larger full-size
Chevrolet Traverse. The second row
features a sliding seat to maximize
either cargo space or back seat legroom
and the seat backs fold flat
via mechanical handles in the cargo area.
The back seat is comfortable for two but
might be a bit tight for three full size
adults across the bench. The cargo area
itself is spacious. This is a bigger SUV
then you might think. It is easily a
match for the new Honda Passport
or even the Jeep Grand Cherokee. Out on
the street the difference in driving
experience is actually greater between
the four-cylinder and six-cylinder
models than between the top Premier and
RS trim levels despite the RS' more
sporting pretense. All Blazers feel solid
and surprisingly substantial with
excellent body control and a ride and
handling balance that's impressive.
The RS gets a slightly more aggressive
suspension tune and a quicker steering
ratio but not really much else. It's not
like the Traverse RS that gets a unique
engine. The same engine power is the
Premier trim too. It's sporty-er than a
Murano or a Santa Fe but a Ford Edge ST
with its twin turbocharged V6 will
easily spike a Blazer RS in a contest
of acceleration. Suffice it to say the RS
delivers more
sporty looks than athletic ability
providing a fun styling statement and a
slightly tighter driving experience.
Choosing one trim over the other really
becomes more of which one you think
looks most appealing. The new 2019 Blazer
is not cheap. A base-model 2.5 L starts
at just a tick under $30,000 including the
destination fee while the least
expensive V6 front-wheel drive model
starts at $34,495. All wheel
drive adds $2,700
to that price. The RS starts at $41,795
while the Premier starts at
$43,895.
Load up an RS or Premier with all-wheel
drive and every option on the sheet and
you're easily into the low $50,000 range
which is a lot of coin for a midsize
Chevy SUV but is indeed comparable to
what you'd pay for a Murano, Edge or
Grand Cherokee. With its sophisticated
styling, its excellent ride handling
characteristics and the technology-laden
interior the new Blazer really is a
quite formidable competitor to the
Murano and the Edge. It's on sale now in
dealerships across the country and if
you'd like to learn more about the new
Chevrolet Blazer
please come look us up on Cars.com.

2019 Silverado 1500 RST Walk-Around | Jeff Gordon Chevrolet

Jeff Gordon Chevrolet:

Hey guys this is Ben Frame here at Jeff
Gordon Chevrolet, excited to introduce to
you today the all-new 2019 Chevy
Silverado! Completely redesigned body
style, more space, aerodynamics.
I'm gonna start by showing you under the
hood give you a little bit of updates on
all the new features under the hood.
As you can see under here we have the
5.3 liter V8. One of the new features
Chevrolet has introduced this year is
called Dynamic Fuel Management. If you
had a Chevrolet in the past, you're
familiar with the Active Fuel Management
where the truck kicks down from eight
cylinders to four cylinders to get you
increased fuel economy. Chevrolet has now
introduced technology that'll take you
from eight cylinders, to seven, six, five, four,
three, two, even all the way down to one,
for you to get optimal fuel economy in
this truck. Comes standard with the
5-year/60,000 mile warranty covering your
engine, transmission, and you get your
first maintenance visit free on Chevrolet.
This particular model is the RST Edition
so this is Chevrolet's sporty version of
the Silverado. You're going to notice on
the grill, everything is body colored -
it's all white. The new look for the
Chevy Silverado is an aggressive light
cluster with LED strips in between,
daytime running lamps; Everything is LED for
increased visibility on the road, and a mean-looking truck.
Follow me.
Some of the new features that we've
introduced this year; We have a standard
side blind-zone alert. So when you're
driving down the road, you're on the highway,
There's an icon that will light up in your side
mirror to let you know someone's there...
And we also have keyless entry. You
leave your keys in your pocket. To get into
the truck, just push this button, it'll
unlock it. I'm going to open up the truck
now so you can see how big and spacious this truck really is.
With the new 2019 Silverado you have three inches of
increased legroom in the back. So if you
got the family, you guys are going out to
the marina on Sunday, taking the boat out,
vacation, you're gonna be comfortable. I'm
six foot, two fifty; I can come back here
take a nap and be very comfortable.
Chevrolet has also introduced additional storage in
the back of the truck. You can fold the
seat up here from the bottom. As you can
see, we've got a storage bin built in
underneath the truck, so any tools, extra
odds-and-ends, things for the kids, you
can put them down here for storage. And
this is new for the '19, we've got
storage right behind the seat here. You
can fold this little piece of the seat
out and you've got hidden storage right there.
Everyone can be comfortable in the
new Silverado. There's air vents in the
back - commonly requested from our
customers of previous generations.
Everyone can stay cool. USBs in the
back for kids. If you got a tablet you got
a Wi-Fi hotspot built into the truck.
Everyone can stay connected, everyone can
have fun, kids can be good when you're riding down the road.
Another one of the improvements we've
made this year at the Silverado is the
bed space. Wider bed, and as you can see
here, you've got angled LED lights for
work at night; If you need to come out
here and you're working on a project
you've got a switch inside, you flip it,
you're gonna have lights. You can get
your work done out here. With the new
2019 Silverado, a new body style design,
Chevrolet has stamped into the bed of
the truck. As well as, with the RST
package, you get these nice chrome
exhaust tips to give it a finished
sporty look. And one of the coolest tech
features that they've added to the 2019
Silverado is the power tailgate. As you
can see here, you've got a nice simple
button, push it comes right down. Nice and
easy. Two important features that you
have in the 2019 Silverado bed: 12
standard tie-downs, that are supported to
hold up to 500 pounds. So very nice to have
something to protect your precious cargo
and be able to tie them down with plenty
access points. There's also an option for
an additional 9 tie-downs so if you
need even more support, you have the
ability to get it. There's also an
optional 120-volt plug in here in the
back of the truck - If you got tools,
tailgating, you need to hook up the radio,
you got a spot right here in the bed to
do it. The whole truck is made out of
high-strength steel. Very sturdy truck.
Stuck to Chevrolet's original design. Look
how light this tailgate is. This is
aluminum for the easiest possible tailgate
to push up and down that you can get. In
the rear of the truck as well, they've
increased the space here for the step
ups into the truck. So if you're a
working man, you got some steel toe boots,
you need to get in here - more room, easier
to get in and out of.
One of the most impressive features as
well - Towing capacity, with the 3.42 gear
ratio, you're looking at 11,600
pounds with the 5.3 liter V8.
Tons of towing capacity. It's going to be
able to handle pulling your boat and do
it well. Now we're gonna go inside and
see the roomy and beautiful interior of
the new Silverado. As you can see here on
the interior of the door - Tons of storage.
You've got 2 cupholders in the side,
spot for change, and with the new
redesign, you have a beautiful wood grain
interior trim to give it a luxurious finish.
Over here on the left stack, of course
you got your four wheel drive. You want
to take this out on Fort Fisher, you want
to go to the beach, you need help on the
boat ramp, this truck has it covered for
you. It has an auto mode where you can
keep it in two-wheel drive and when the
situation presents itself where you need
the four-wheel drive, it's gonna
automatically kick in for you. And you
have nice easy-to-use buttons here on
the steering wheel.
These will adjust your driver
information center where you can access
fuel economy, oil pressure, things like
that, as well as your cruise control here
you see on the left side. It's come to
the RST package will have a heated
steering wheel. So on a cold morning, this
will get nice and toasty. Nice and
comfortable when you're getting going in
the morning.
Center stack is completely redesigned.
Everything's right there easy to use.
Some of the different buttons you got:
Rear parking sensors - backing up the big
truck, it's nice to have some extra eyes
it'll beep to let you know someone's
coming. This is a new feature for the
2019 Silverado - it is the start/stop
technology, which is gonna help you get
better fuel economy, but what is cool
with this truck - you got the ability to turn it
on and off if you don't want it on. I
know I showed you guys the tailgate
earlier. You can hit it from the inside
as well. So if you got your crew in the
back this button can be hit and it will
fold right down, as well as the key fob.
You got a button right here so three
different ways to do it. Nice and easy.
Hazard lights.
Traction control - rainy and
inclement weather - gonna help you with
getting better traction on the road. And
this is our hill descent control. It's a Z71
off-road feature built to help you get
down steep terrain and keep the it's
basically like a cruise control going
down hill. USB in the center. 12-volt
power outlet.
Plug up your phone, you can charge it.
This year is the all-new MyLink 3 system.
So it has been updated by Chevrolet to
give you an intuitive user-friendly, easy
touchscreen. You've got access to your
radio, bluetooth, Wi-Fi hotspots so
all the kids, everyone in the truck, can
stay connected and surf the web. Settings.
This is the Apple Carplay and Android
Auto. The screen will look like your
phone, it's awesome. Trailer lights. If
you're pulling a trailer behind you, you
actually have some controls up here that
are gonna configure with your trailer.
And I'll pull up the camera here. Camera here,
as you can see, we've got two different
options. This will give you guidance
lines on the back so if you're trying to
get into a parking spot, parallel parking,
these lines really come in handy to make
life easy for you. And you'll see a
button here. This is for hooking up to
your boat - gives you a straight line so
you can hook right up, with pinpoint
accuracy, to get where you need to what
you're trying to hook up to the to the
truck. All that fun stuff to make your
life easy. Storage here in the center.
We've got a big old bin here. Anything
you need to put away while riding down the road,
you got storage. Seat folds up as well. If
you got your kids with you, you just need
an extra seat for a family member, friend,
they can sit here in the middle. Seat
folds up as well for hidden storage
valuables things like that you can put
down here.
Lock it up with this key, and no one will
be able to get in there.
Dual storage here on the passenger side
so not only from the bottom do you have
storage, you got storage at the top to
extra space up there for documentation
or anything you need to put in there. Up
top this is new for the 2019
Silverado you've got some additional
storage on the top as well. There is no
shortage in this truck to place any of
your belongings.
Thanks for tuning in guys! We have eight
other trim levels in the 2019 Silverado
that will be introduced as our inventory
comes in. Please stay tuned - we're going
to be doing more videos. Check our
website out: JeffGordonChevy.com. If you
want to be the first person in
Wilmington to own one. Come see me: Ben
Frame at Jeff Gordon Chevy.

2018 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Model Review | Edmunds

Edmunds:

[MUSIC PLAYING]
CARLOS LAGO: That's the
new Chevy Camaro ZL1,
and in this video we're going to
give you an overview about what
makes it special.
And the quick version is, it's
more than the 650 horsepower
underneath that hood.

You might be surprised to
hear that the coolest parts
about the Camaro
ZL1 are actually
the stuff you can't see.
The exterior doesn't look
dramatically different
than the standard
Camaro SS or RS models.
You can tell the
ZL1 is different
because it has big exhaust pipes
and a ZL1 badge at the back.
But over on the side, as
we get to the profile,
it retains the shape that we
know to love the Camaros by.
The wheels are bigger, they're
20 inches front and rear,
but they're a staggered
fitment, so the front tires
are a little bit
smaller than the rear.
And that gives it a
nice purposeful look.
But it's the stuff
underneath here
that really makes the car
drive as good as it does.
You have magnetic
fluid-filled dampers
that react super quick, more
so than your traditional motor
controlled dampers when you're
making adjustments on the fly.
You have an electronically
controlled limited slip
differential that continually
biases power left or right,
controls it with a
granularity you can't achieve
with a simple mechanical unit.
Up at the front you
see the big differences
that come with the ZL1.
Up on the hood here, of course,
is the badging and the carbon
fiber dome of the hood.
And there's actually
a heat extractor right
through the bottom there.
You can fit your
hand in, we'll show
you the vents in just a second.
But when we were
talking about making
650 horsepower, what we
really had to pay attention to
is cooling.
This is the same engine that's
in the Chevy Corvette Z06.
And in here, you can
tell the front fascia
is dramatically different,
and it's much larger.
And there's all these
gigantic air openings.
And that's because
this needs a lot of air
to go through it
to keep it cool.
You have heat
exchangers here, here,
here, here, there's
inner coolers
underneath the supercharger,
there's another heat exchanger
lying flat.
And all of this is designed
to get as much airflow
through the front of
the vehicle as possible.
I mean even the Chevy Badge,
you can stick your finger right
through it.
These gaping holes
right here, I mean,
you can imagine what happens if
a small animal flies in there.
It's all made in the name of
getting air through this engine
to keep it cool
under heavy use when
you're making all that power.
Now, let's take a
look at that engine.

Feast your eyes on the glory
of a supercharged 6.2 liter
V8 that makes 650 horsepower,
and 650 pound feet of torque.
This is, frankly, a
hell of an engine.
It doesn't rev that
high, 6,500 RPM.
Actually that's pretty
decent for a pushrod V8,
but really the story is
the breadth of that power.
But also consider it's
a fairly compact engine.
And it can be compact because
that supercharger, this guy
right here, isn't as big as the
last generation supercharged V8
that the previous ZL1 used and
the previous Corvette used.
Now and also the nature
of a pushrod motor
is, because it doesn't
have two overhead cams,
there's not a lot of valvetrain
up here, so it can be short.
And that can help
with visibility.
But as you'll see when
we hop inside this car,
the visibility isn't
really quite there.
And we showed you
the heat extractors
that come through here.
They're functional, you can
stick your hand right up
in there.
And the goal of that is to
promote air flow out of here
to keep pulling air through
the front end of the vehicle
to cool it down.
Let's take a look inside.
Well the first
thing you gotta do
when you slip into the interior
of a Camaro ZL1 is fire it up.
So that's how you
set things off right.
Now, couple of things
you have to accept
with the interior
of the Chevy Camaro,
especially this generation.
There is no interior storage.
You have a couple of pockets
on the left and right.
There's some space
in the armrest.
But there's basically
nothing for anything
bigger than a phone.
Even my phone has difficulty
fitting in the center armrest.
Also, rear visibility
comes up short.
It's like looking out
of a cardboard box.
But at least if you
don't want to sit low
you can raise the height up.
And that certainly helps your
view over the hood and just
at a point, there you go.
If you're concerned about
looking forward over the hood,
you can always do that.
OK now we're back
to normal height.
ZL1 specific changes
are few, but are nice.
These seats are Recaros,
they're nice buckets
with good amounts
of lateral support
but they don't
feel uncomfortable.
The material they're
wrapped with,
and especially the stuff
on the steering wheel too,
is this microfiber
suede-like substance.
It's also on the dash.
It looks and feels nice.
This is, of course,
the 10 speed automatic.
And we'll talk about how that
works once we take it out
for a drive.
For now though, it
just looks and works
like a normal
automatic transmission.
Behind it, these
controls here are
what get us into sort of the
electronic sophistication
you'll find in the ZL1.
You have four
different drive modes,
there's tube or track, sport,
and snow and ice modes.
Now those adjust a
variety of settings,
but within those settings
are further adjustments.
For example, when you go
into track like we are now,
you can double tap the
stability control button
and access the performance
traction management function.
Now this is a multi-configurable
stability control setting
that has one, two, three,
four, five different levels
of adjustment.
And you can also turn
everything completely off.
We'll talk about launch
control, too, and a line lock.
This has both those tools which
are great for drag racers.
And it speaks to the
legacy level of intent
that Chevy knows
Camaro owners are
going to use these cars for.
The ZL1 doesn't do any
one thing particularly.
It's not focused on
just doing one job,
it's focused on being
able to do everything.
It wants to ride
comfortably on your commute.
It wants to be able to tackle
a mountain road or a racetrack.
And it wants to
be able to get you
through a night
at the dragstrip.
And all that stuff
comes together nicely
in this package.
Now this display, as we get back
into more traditional Camaro
grievances, this
display looks funky.
It looks like it's tilted in.
Although when you start
using it, you realize
it's super intuitive.
It also supports Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto,
and that's really nice.
In front of you, you
have two analog gauges
and in the center is
a digital display.
That's multi-configurable
and shows
you a lot of really
nice information.
And above that is
a head up display.
As we dive into the
dash, we'll explain
how some of the drag racing
focused technology works.
I'll put the car in
its track setting,
and then I'll turn the
advance stability control
system to sport, for example.
And what you can
do here is you can
define the amount of traction
the surface that you're
driving on has.
So if you're in sport
one or sport two,
it assumes you're
on a street surface.
But if you go up
to race, it assumes
you're on a drag strip that
has a prepared surface, that
has the traction of
a prepared surface.
So it'll actually account
for all that stuff.
When you go into
the launch control,
you can set custom parameters.
There's an automatic
function, but you can also
set manually your target
RPM, your slip target--
and that slip target is
how much the rear tires
rotate versus how fast you go.
Tires like to spin a little bit
faster than you would think.
They like to have a
little bit of slip
to get the best
launch out of them.
And you can actually define
the percentage of slip
that you want the
rear tires to have.
Which is nuts.
And then beneath that
you have a line lock.
And now what a line lock does,
is it holds the front brakes
but allows the rear tires
to spin freely, which
makes a burn out a lot easier.
I'm in the school of thought
that if you have 650 pound
feet, a burnout's
pretty easy to do,
but it's nice that
the feature's there.
And this is a level
of granularity
for a drag racing that I
haven't seen in a production car
outside of the Dodge Demon.
And it's really cool, because
this car, again, is just
sort of an all-arounder.
Now up next we'll show
you what that means
when we drive it on the street.
Driving on the congested
and Toyota Prius
filled streets of LA may
not be the most exciting way
to experience the Camaro
ZL1, but it does give us
the opportunity to illustrate
just how nice this car is
to drive in general.
Sure the ride's firm, sure
you get some road noise,
but it's nothing that would
make this car difficult to live
with.
This 10 speed automatic
transmission, you might think,
wow that's a lot of gears.
I'm going to constantly see
the tack bouncing around
as it shifts.
But you don't.
You barely notice when
the shifts happen.
And the way they've
tuned this transmission
so it can skip gears
when you step on it
makes for a really
nice experience.

What's funny is
when you really see
a gap, when you nail that gas
it's almost as if the car has
night terrors.
Because suddenly it starts
growling out of nowhere
and making all these
noises and screaming.
And then it gets
really silent again.
It gets really quiet.
It just seems to get more
aggressive the more you drive
it in an aggressive manner.
But of course LA
traffic is the worst.
So we're going to go to a
place where we can explore
the abilities of this car.
[MUSIC PLAYING]

There's just so much power.
The performance of this
vehicle is just incredible.
But it's the tractability
that makes it so dominating.
It just feels so good,
feels so much fun.
This is a large, heavy car,
with pretty poor visibility.
But it just comes into its
own in this environment.
It's so much fun.
Modulating the power and
controlling the Camaro,
got to love that sound.
Get a little sideways.
So even though the
stability control is on,
it still gives you
a bit of freedom
with how much
sideways you get when
you dig into that throttle.
And there's so much
power on tap here.
We have 650 horsepower.
I'm getting a
little bit too close
to the limits of the
stability control system.
I'm feeling it grab
me a little bit more.
But what that's doing
is it's telling me
I'm applying too much throttle.
You can use this system
like a driver's tool.
You can lean on it and
use it the wrong way,
and have it try to fix
your sloppy mistakes.
But you can also
pay attention to it,
pay attention to when
it's cutting the power
and how much power
it's giving you,
and you can dial back
your choice accordingly.

Now what's working
in conjunction
there is the stability control
and electronically controlled
limited slip differential.
Which is biasing power
as it deems appropriate,
based on whatever the vehicle
sensors are telling it.
That's really nice.
And we haven't even talked
about the brakes yet.
These brakes provide
very good stopping power
and have a nice long travel.
So you can dig in to it
without using too much force,
and get the right amount
braking force that you want.

I like this car a lot.
Listen to that.
[ENGINE REVVING]

And that's the
amazing Camaro ZL1.
You want to see more videos like
this, keep it tuned right here.
And be sure to
visit edmunds.com.

1996-2000 Chevrolet GMC Performance Computer Programmer Jet Chips Tutorial Install How-To

JEGS Performance:

And it's real cool to work on all the new
cars, 2008s, 2009s and even newer stuff than
that. There's a lot of people out there with
these older trucks. This is a '98 GMC. Guys
lifted it, put a 6-inch kit on it, some 35-inch
tires. Wants to get a little more power, wants
to correct the speedometer and all that. We
got one product that's gonna do all that.
That's the jet performance programmer. Little
harness like this. How cool is this? We're
just gonna plug this in, answer some questions,
and we're gonna be ready to go.
So this goes right underneath the dash here.
Right into the OBD2 port there.
Got it plugged in.
Now, the programmer's already recognized the
vehicle, it's found the VIN number. It's telling
us to turn the ignition key on. And actually
it's gonna walk us through the steps. [music]
It's connecting.
Once it connects to it, there goes our VIN
number, all the other relevant information.
It's telling us what type of vehicle it is.
Do you want to program it or scan tool. We're
going to go into programming, but the scan
tool's pretty cool too. If you get any check
engine lights or anything like that, it'll
tell you what they're on for and you can clear
those codes as well. At this point we can
go to an easy program which quickly takes
you through, puts the performance program
in there, gets you a little bit of shift firmness,
and gets you right back on the road. But we
want to go into custom programming 'cause
we need to make some changes. So we go right
into custom programming. One of those is modify
engine tuning. Heck yeah, let's get a little
more performance. Do we want to use regular
fuel, do we wanna use mid-grade fuel or do
we wanna use premium? We're gonna run some
premium this time out. iMac [SP] trans. Sure
does. Do we want to modify the shift points?
Not yet. Let's get the speedometer correct,
and then we'll see if we need to come back
and do that. That's another good part about
the programmer. We can come back at any time
and make changes. Wanna modify shift firmness?
Heck yes we do. Let's make it a little harder.
We're not gonna modify the rev limiter at
this point either, 'cause we're not really
sure where everything's at. Don't want anything
going crazy.
Modify speed limiter. Ha! You kidding me?
Let's get this thing up. Not only can we raise
the speed limit of this truck, if we wanted
to we can lower it, but I'm gonna put the
speed limiter so high we never have to worry
about hitting it. Modify tire size. Here we
go. This is where we're running into some
problems. I do not have the stock tire size
on this truck right now, so we are looking.
We already figured out the dimensions, and
we're at thirty-four and a half. So we're
gonna run up there . . . get that going. Modify
the gear ratio. Yeah, instead of the stock
373s on this truck, it had four tens. So we
gotta come up, bring that up. Now we got the
four ten gears here. Plug that in. Wanna go
back and modify your choices, yes or no? You
can scan through them and see if you wanna
make any other changes.
Best part about this is once it's programmed,
if you ever need to go back it'll give you
an option to go back to stock. So wanna modify
choices? We're gonna hit no. It's installing
the program. It's connecting. Saving the stock
program. In a couple more seconds it's gonna
tells us we're ready to unplug. Then we're
ready to go. We're gonna fire this up. That's
how easy it is to use this product. Thanks
for watching. Go to jetchip.com.