How to Install Smoked LED Tail Lights 14-15 Chevy Silverado
1A Auto Parts:
2014-2018 Silverado Axial Smoked LED Tail Lights Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
Hey, guys, Adam here with americantrucks.com.
Today we're taking a quick look at and installing
the Axial smoked LED tail lights for all 2014
to 2018 Silverado 1500s.
You should be taking a look at these particular
tail lights for your own Silverado if you're
looking to completely change up the rear end
appearance of your truck, by swapping out
the boring factory red, stick-out-like-a-sore-thumb
tail lights, with something that's a lot more
modern, a lot brighter, and in my opinion,
a lot more attractive.
Now, aftermarket tail lights, and head lights
for that matter, are typically a hit or miss
or polarizing in the community.
Some guys really like the look of an aftermarket
light, some guys really do not.
If you're one of the guys that really likes
the look of an updated tail light, this might
be a good thing to check out.
In my opinion, these look really aggressive
at the rear end, they're a perfect fit for
your truck, and they've got a black interior
housing and smoked exterior lens to give you
that really stealthy look that just is super
subtle and super aggressive.
Now, these feature 12 LEDs that are very bright,
very state of the art technology for your
brake lights and your turn signals, inside
of these C bar shaped running lights, which
you see lit up behind me right now.
They also come with reflectors at the end
here and accent lights on the side as well.
So, a lot of things going on inside of this
housing and we'll take a closer look at that,
comparing these to your factory lights, side
by side, in just a little bit.
If you want to pick these up for your own
Silverado, it's about 450 bucks, maybe just
a hair less than that, which, again, in my
opinion, is very well worth it if you want
to change up your exterior appearance.
Now, as far as the install, one out of three
wrenches on our difficulty meter.
There's two T15 Torx bit screws that you'll
have to remove inside your tailgate.
Very simple stuff.
There's no splicing whatsoever.
These are completely plug and play.
Everything's wired in for you so you just
pop out your factory bulbs and pop in the
new ones.
You are, however, going to be reusing your
factory reverse light bulb.
So you want to leave that in and pop it right
into your new housing.
I'm gonna show you guys how it's done, so
let's get to it.
The first step of our uninstall, obviously
we got to pop down our tailgate and then you're
going to remove two bolts on each headlight
holding it into place, which is a T15.
So, grab your T15 Torx socket and remove those
two bolts.
Now, those two bolts, one is going to be directly
above your tailgate wire, and the second one
is right below it.
Once those two screws are removed, you're
just going to pull straight back.
You might have to put a little bit of force
into it to really pop them out of place.
There's two plastic clips holding this on
from the back into the body of the truck,
which might need a little bit of elbow grease
to get off.
From here, you want to twist out your bulbs
and set your tail light aside.
So, we got our factory tail light off of our
driver side of our '16 Silverado, sitting
next to our new Axial LEDs.
You can see, complete redesign.
Absolutely nothing is the same between the
two.
And I personally really like the look of these
new ones, really modern, really aggressive
technology, super bright LEDs included.
There's 12 red LEDs into those C shaped running
lights which will incorporate your turn signals,
your brake lights, your regular running lights.
It all just looks really sharp in that housing.
The housing, by the way, is a full black interior
with a smoked exterior lens.
You're kind of getting the best of both worlds.
You get really bright LEDs that shine through
that smoke lens, you get that more aggressive
finish on the glass outside, and a more aggressive
finish on the interior.
Sometimes you see smoked lenses with chrome
interior housing.
I'm personally not a big fan of that.
I think this looks a lot sharper.
If you compare that to your factory one, which
is an all red interior housing and a clear
lens, this is really just a stock, really
sticks out like a sore thumb, in my opinion,
especially against that dark paint.
If you're looking at the black interior and
the smoked lens, blends in a lot more, looks
a lot more stealthy.
And then once you hit the brakes and turn
your lights on, you can see that completely
redesigned tail light.
It's a good way to get a refresh at your rear
end.
Now, getting these installed is extremely
easy.
There's a big difference going from your stock
bulbs to your new LEDs.
There's no splicing required with this.
It's a very simple plug and play.
All you have to do is pick up your factory
harness and pop out those light bulbs.
So, we're going to pop them out really gently,
and when we go to install our new Axials,
this little wiring harness plugin at the end
here is going to pop right into your factory
harness.
It's a really simple plug and play, so let's
just get it done.
Now, for your final thing, you are going to
reuse your factory reverse lights, so the
bulb you want to pop back in is the smallest
one, and that's going to go right up into
position on your new tail lights.
I'm going to twist and turn it until it's
locked in position, and then give it one more
turn to get it secure.
From here, you can rotate our tail lights
up and slide those plastic clips through our
body, just like the factory ones we removed.
Pop them right in and replace those factory
T15 Torx screws.
That's going to wrap up my quick review and
install of the Axial smoked LED tail lights.
You can get your set right here at americantrucks.com.
2014-2018 Silverado 1500 Axial Black LED Tail Lights Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
Hey, guys.
Adam here with americantrucks.com.
And today, we're taking a closer look at and
installing the Axial Black LED Tail Lights,
available for the '14 to '18 Silverado 1500,
without factory LED Tail Lights.
You should be checking this out from Axial
if you're looking to spice up the rear-end
look of your Silverado to get a more modernized
updated tail light finish, something that's
brighter and more attractive and overall a
little bit more aggressive.
This particular design replaces the factory
traditional light with a black interior housing
to give you the impression of a smoked light
without hindering any light output because
it still has that clear lens.
Inside, you can see two top and bottom running
lights, bright red C-shaped, which I think
gives it a nice modern look, kind of the impression
of a daytime running light.
In between, you'll have your reverse light
and also, you'll get multiple red LED tail
lights to work as your turn signals and, of
course, the regular tail lights.
Now, this set here, is a complete redesign
and I'll break that down comparing it to the
stock lights in just a little bit.
Know that this kit does come as a pair, right
around 400 bucks.
And the install is gonna get a simple one
out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter.
Anybody can tackle this in the driveway at
home with about an hour from start to finish.
The job here does not require any splicing.
There's no cutting.
There's no wiring.
It is a direct plug and play.
Now, if you do have factory LEDs, this one's
not gonna be for you.
There's a bunch of options in the category
for you to choose from.
This guy is strictly gonna work for non-LED
equipped factory trucks.
Really what you're gonna be doing is just
reusing the factory bulb sockets and plugging
in your new LED harness right into where the
bulb used to be.
So, what do you say we head right over, start
the uninstall?
I'm gonna walk you through every step.
Let's get to it.
Tools used in this install include an impact
gun or a ratchet and a T15 Torx socket.
First step, guys, drop your tailgate, grab
your T15 Torx bit.
I'm gonna use an impact gun on my lowest setting,
a ratchet works just as well.
Remove the two bolts holding on the tail light
from the inside on our driver side first then
we'll repeat for the other side.
All right, so you can see the top bolt here.
I'm gonna get this guy off.
Same thing for the bottom one.
From here, you're gonna pull back on the tail
light.
Now, you might have to put a little bit of
firm pressure in because on the side here,
they're clipped into the body of the vehicle.
So, we're just gonna pull this guy straight
back.
From here, we're gonna twist and disconnect
the factory bulbs.
Just like that.
We can set the factory housing aside.
All right, so we got our driver side tail
light off of our '15 Silverado behind me.
It's on the table next to our Axial Black
option.
I wanna take you through some similarities
and differences between the two.
Let's start with similarities.
Now, the OEM quality is gonna be the same
on our new Axial Tail Light.
So, the build of the housing is gonna be the
same grade plastic and the fitment is gonna
be OEM spec.
So, as far as similarities, that's really
it.
The differences are blowing away.
The difference here is a complete redesign
in the housing.
It does have a clear exterior lens but the
interior is now a matte black finish, kinda
gives you that impression of smoked tail light
without actually impeding on any of the lighting
output.
The factory light, of course, has that very
traditional chrome red reflective interior.
It's kind of outdated, not very modern.
This guy here, complete redesign.
Inside of that, you'll see the upper and lower
running light bars.
It's kind of a C shape there that will work
with your tail light and your turn signals.
Also, in between each of those will be six
individual LEDs, which will again work with
the tail light and the turn signals.
You then have the reflector light and your
reverse light right in the middle.
You will be transferring over your factory
reverse light bulb.
So, we will have to reuse that from the factory
harness on our '15 behind me.
On the side here, you're also getting two
accent lights, not something you'd get with
the factory light.
So, it does add a little bit more styling,
in addition to that complete redesign.
That's something I really do like about these
new Axials.
And I do wanna flip it over and then focus
one more second on the actual wiring here.
So, we'll pop in our factory bulb sockets.
But because we're using new updated LEDs,
it's really gonna have this plug and play
that will go right into the factory side.
So, we'll pop the bulbs out and just reuse
that bulb housing.
The reverse light again, will just seat right
in here.
And they're just gonna twist and lock right
into place.
No splicing, no wiring, none of that nonsense.
It's gonna be super simple.
What I wanna do at this point is toss our
factory light aside because you don't need
that anymore.
Let's take this over to the truck and start
installing.
All right, jumping back over to the vehicle,
what we're gonna have to do first is look
at our factory harness and as you can see,
our bulbs are still in place.
This middle guy, the smallest bulb is our
reverse light.
We're gonna keep that there.
But we are gonna have to pop out the tail
light bulbs.
In order to do that, grab the bulb at the
base.
You're gonna just shimmy it back and forth
and disconnect.
Can set that aside.
Do the same thing for this bottom guy.
Just like that.
From here, take your tail light and we're
gonna prop this guy up on the bumper.
I'm gonna look at these harnesses for a second.
So, here is your tail light harness, these
two.
And above that is your reverse light.
What you're gonna wanna do is take this LED
harness and put it into that factory bulb
socket where the bulb was.
Now, when you do that, you wanna take note
of the colored wire positions on that factory
harness.
As you can see, we have a black, a brown,
and a green.
We wanna line up the black on the same side
as the black wire on our new LED harness.
So, if I look at it this way, our black wire
is on the right.
So, I wanna take this harness and plug it
in so that the black wire is also on the right.
That's matching your ground to your ground
and your power to your power.
Otherwise, they won't work properly.
So, do that for both sides of the harness.
All right, from there, we can take those bulbs
and set them into their housing.
All right, so now we can take our reverse
light and pop it into the slot right above.
You may have to bring the tail light pretty
close in to get it to lock into place.
From here, we're gonna take our housing and
push it into place on the vehicle.
Just like that.
Take the factory hardware and tighten it down
to the inside.
So, I'm just gonna put these in place by hand
and then we can grab our impact gun or our
ratchet, and the T15 socket, and tighten them
down.
All right, repeat on the other side.
That's gonna wrap up my review and install
for the Axial Black LED Tail Lights available
for the '14 to '18 Silverado 1500 without
factory LEDs.
If you wanna pick them up, you can do so exclusively
right here at americantrucks.com
Chevy Cruze Third Brake Light Assembly Installation Video by Dorman Products
DormanProducts:
Welcome to Dorman products, Chevy Cruze Third Brake Light installation video
This installation is considered easy by our technicians
and should take you around 10 minutes to complete
To begin installation
open trunk and locate the two bolts holding the third brake light in place
Next, inside the vehicle, pull the light away from its position against the rear window
Disconnect the plug and play connector from the light
A pick tool may make this a little easier
And remove the light
Reattach the plug and play connector to the new third brake light
And place it in the same position as the original
To complete installation simply reconnect securing bolts
located in the vehicles trunk
and then press your brakes to ensure your light is functioning properly
1956 Commercial Chevrolet Bel Air 1957/Anuncio Chevrolet Bel Air 1957
Panoramadelmotor Martin:
2007-2018 Silverado 1500 Power Stop OE Replacement Brake Rotor & Pad Kit - Front Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
Hey, guys.
Adam here with americantrucks.com.
Today we're taking a closer look at and installing
the Power Stop OE Replacement Front Brake
Pad and Rotor Kit available for the '07 to
'18 Silverado 1500.
You should be checking this out for your own
Silverado if you're in need of a new set of
rotors and pads and you're not looking to
spend big bucks on something with all the
bells and whistles like a drilled and slotted
rotor or a fancy pad.
This is literally the exact same quality in
the exact same setup that you got from your
truck off the factory line just made from
Power Stop.
This kit includes a G3000 casting grade rotor
manufacturing process, you're getting the
same OE quality rotor going right into the
factory location using your factory calipers.
The pads are gonna have a 100% dust-free,
brake noise-free, ceramic pads.
So, they're high quality and again, just the
same quality as your factory one which is
really actually what a lot of guys look for.
A lot of guys aren't really in the market
for some of those aftermarket fancy stuff.
For right around 100 bucks, you get your entire
front kit for replacements on your braking
assembly.
Now, as we know the trucks as they get older,
they're gonna need brake jobs, they're gonna
need new rotors.
And if you're replacing your brake pad, it's
always a good idea to do the rotor at the
same time.
When you're using factory pads and factory
rotors, they break-in together and have the
same kind of grooves.
So, if you replace pads and not rotors, the
old rotors are gonna create the same grooves
on your pads and wear them out a lot faster.
So, anytime you're replacing one, you really
wanna replace them both.
And with this kit, you're getting all of that
together conveniently for the front end.
Anybody can tackle it in the driveway at home
with a little bit of patience and following
directions.
Whenever you're doing pads and brakes or anything
really inside that wheel well, you wanna make
sure you're using extreme caution, you wanna
know what you're doing.
Read the directions because messing with brake
assemblies it can be pretty dangerous if not
done correctly.
So, I'm gonna show you every step of the process
to make sure that you can do it in the driveway
at home.
There are a couple of specialty tools you're
going to need and I'll walk you through the
entire tool list.
I recommend some anti-seize lubricant which
is gonna make it a little easier to make sure
there's no squeaking, no squealing when the
pads contact the caliper itself.
You're also gonna need a torque wrench and
I'd recommend a breaker bar or a larger ratchet.
Something to give you a little bit more leverage
to break those caliper brackets loose.
After a while, it can get a little rusty and
really seized up in there so having something
to give you some more leverage to break them
loose is gonna go a long way.
Now, the install is gonna get two out of three
wrenches on our difficulty meter.
I'd recommend having about three hours on
deck from start to finish at the front end.
If you have more experience, it might take
you a little bit of less time.
Because we're not replacing the caliper itself,
we don't have to bleed the brakes which is
one thing off of our minds we don't have to
worry about.
Without me rambling anymore, I'm gonna show
you every step.
Let's get to it.
Tools used in this install include an impact
gun, 18-millimeter deep socket, 18-millimeter
swivel socket, 19-millimeter deep socket,
T27 Torx bit, dual-piston caliper tool, anti-seize
lubricant or brake lubricant, half-inch ratchet,
pry bar, breaker bar, and a torque wrench.
All right, guys, first step, of course, is
to get your truck up in the air safely whether
that be on the ground on jack stands.
Make sure you're using your floor jack as
added support in case of a jack stand failure.
You just wanna be using extreme caution when
jacking up your truck.
Get your wheel off.
As you can see, we've already done that.
Grab a 19-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove
the two bolts holding your caliper to the
caliper bracket.
There's one at the top and one here at the
bottom.
All right.
So, with those two bolts out of the way, you
should be able to pull your caliper off.
Now, because it's under some pressure in there,
you might need a pry bar.
You're gonna pry from the top, from the bottom,
and just go back and forth until it works
its way off, and you pull it straight back.
If you are unable to pop the caliper off of
the caliper brackets, you can skip that and
go straight for the two bolts that hold the
entire assembly on.
We're gonna take the bracket off anyway.
I like to take the caliper off first.
If you're having trouble with that, you can
just take the whole thing off.
All right.
Once you get this off, you wanna place it
up here on your upper control arm safely so
it doesn't hang down and put pressure on the
brake line.
All right.
So, at this point, if you're able to you can
pop your brake pads out.
This one here is a little tight.
This one here is just a little bit of movement
so I'm gonna pop them out with the caliper
bracket altogether.
All right.
Since they're on there pretty tight, we don't
have enough torque on our impact gun.
I'm gonna a half-inch ratchet with an 18 socket
just to break them loose.
All right.
So, we got those broken loose.
Now, we can get them off.
All right.
With those two bolts out of the way, we can
pop our bracket off and set it aside.
All right.
Next step we can pop our rotor off since we
are replacing our rotors.
We're gonna use a T27 Torx bit to get this
one little screw off.
A T30 will be a little more snug but this
is what we got.
Pop that off and now we can take our rotor
off.
All right.
So, we got our factory rotor and our pads
off of our '14 Silverado 1500 behind me.
I wanna take you through some of the similarities
and differences between the two kits.
And I got to be honest with you, guys, there
really aren't any differences between the
two.
The Power Stop kit we have here on my right
is just a straight-up OE replacement.
This is a direct replacement for your factory
solid rotors and your factory ceramic pads.
These rotors here from the factory are G3000
grade casting rotor manufacturing process
going into those rotors.
They're also 100% mill balanced and non-directional.
Same exact quality here on the Power Stop.
Your new pads are 100% ceramic pads.
They also offer a noise-free braking experience
so you don't get any squeaks or squealing.
And really, guys, as you can see our factory
pads really do have some meat still left on
them but a huge difference between those and
our new pads here, these are 100% fresh.
Our rotor is looking a little worse for wear,
we're seeing a little bit of rust around the
edges, it's about time we upgrade that to
our new replacement.
And if your brakes are looking a little worse
for wear as well, this is a good thing to
get.
If you're not looking for anything fancy you're
not looking for the all bells and whistles
that you'd get from a drilled and slotted
rotor, any kind of fancy pad, this is really,
again, direct replacement.
So, what we're gonna do is use our new stainless
steel hardware to replace our factory hardware
inside of our caliper.
We wanna put the new clips in.
It's always a good idea to replace those when
you're going through this process.
They get a little rusted, a little worn out
so we're gonna throw those guys in.
We'll add a little brake lubricant on the
inside to prevent any metal on metal squealing.
We'll lube up the back of our new pads, we'll
stick them in the caliper bracket and start
replacing our stuff.
These are gonna need a caliper C-clamp.
You'll have to depress or decompress the caliper
pistons, in this case, our dual-piston caliper
to make room for your new pads.
Because your calipers are under so much pressure
and when you're hitting those brakes, it clamps
in.
It gets stuck in there when your pads are
not being pressed in.
So, what we need to do is decompress that,
put on our new pads, and then we'll work from
there.
So, what we're gonna do first is use our new
hardware and install our pads.
All right.
Now, what we can do is look at our factory
bracket.
We're gonna pop off the metal clips that were
holding on those pads.
What you can do here is push straight out
on the top and it disconnects.
You wanna take note of how they were seated
in there.
Grab the clips in the kit that are the exact
same style.
There are a couple of different versions of
these clips in the kit.
Some have this tab facing backwards, some
are facing forward.
Grab the forward-facing ones.
They're gonna sit right in here on our driver
side bracket.
So, we're gonna pop our old guy out.
And if you have any rust in here, you wanna
make sure you're cleaning that out.
Ours is looking pretty good actually so we're
just gonna pop in our new guys.
These new ones will seat right in there and
you're just gonna push and they snap right
into place.
And we feel that click and now they're secured.
Same thing on the other side.
Now what we can do is put our old stuff aside
and grab our pads.
Now, the pads are gonna seat in there a very
specific way.
You wanna make sure they're seating in with
that curve with the ceramic pad portion on
the inside of the bracket.
Now, before we actually insert this, what
I wanna do is first off try to avoid touching
the surface of the ceramic pad.
You don't wanna get any grease or oil on there.
What you wanna do is look at the back and
we're gonna apply a little bit of anti-seize
or brake pad lubricant.
We're just gonna rub that on the back pad
here.
I'm also gonna rub it on the sides that are
gonna contact the metal on the inside of the
bracket.
We just wanna avoid any excess squealing and
the anti-seize is a good way to go.
I'm gonna pop these gloves off, throw some
some latex gloves on which I'd recommend having
on deck just so you don't get lubricant everywhere.
That's definitely not what you want.
We're gonna apply that.
Now, when you are applying it, guys, you wanna
be careful.
You don't wanna put any anti-seize on the
surface of the brake pad and you don't wanna
get any of it on the surface of the rotor.
It kind of defeats the purpose of braking.
You don't wanna lubricate it, you wanna create
more friction not less.
So, what we wanna do is lubricate that up.
I'm gonna set this down, take my gloves off
and we'll be right back.
All right.
So, what I'm gonna do here is grab our anti-seize,
I'm gonna put a little bit on my finger and
just cover the back end of the plating here
on our caliper.
I'm also gonna grab a little bit, put a little
bit around the edges where it's gonna contact
the metal plating.
It's also not a bad idea to just throw a little
bit on the inside there.
All right.
So, as you can see, this pad here is completely
curved on the bottom.
The curved section is gonna go over the curved
section of the bracket.
The one with the flat section is gonna go
over the flat section of the bracket.
It's pretty straightforward.
So, this is gonna slide right in here.
I'm gonna line it up with the ends of the
brackets and seat it all the way in forward.
Do the same thing with the other one.
You can see this brake pad has a flat section,
that's gonna go on the back flat portion.
All right.
So, now we can grab a rotor and we're going
to install this onto our hub.
What you wanna do is line up the threaded
hole in the rotor to the threaded hole on
the hub.
All right.
So, now what we can do is put in that factory
Torx screw, Torx bolt and just tighten them
in my hands.
Now, we can grab our socket.
All right.
Now, we can drop our caliper bracket in place
with our pads.
Now, what we have to do is line up the factory
bracket with the factory holes.
Grab the 18-millimeter bolt and we're gonna
put it in lightly by hand just threading it
through just to hold it in place.
All right.
Do the same thing for the top.
You're gonna make sure those threads are catching
first before you let go.
All right.
Looking good.
Tighten them down.
I'm gonna get them nice and snug and then
go back with a torque wrench.
What you wanna do is grab a torque wrench
and torque the two bolts down that are holding
your caliper bracket to the knuckle to 170
foot-pounds.
So, now what we have to do is take our caliper,
we're gonna flip it upside down.
Just rest it right about here.
Now, because our new pads are thicker, this
space is no longer big enough to fit over
the new pads.
It got really used to the thinner pads, the
older pads once were used because it compresses
in.
So, what you have to do is push these two
pistons back.
Basically, what you're gonna do is just pull
this trigger a bunch of times and this bracket
here is gonna compress those two pistons in
just like that.
We're gonna push.
You can see it compressing in all the way
back.
Perfect.
Release.
And now it should fit over the brake pads.
So, now we can rest this over the pads and
line those up to the holes just like that.
Grab the factory bolts and put them through.
All right.
Now, we can grab our socket and tighten them
down.
And this is a 19-millimeter socket.
All right.
You don't really need a torque wrench for
this one, you're just gonna get them really
nice and snug with your impact gun.
So, really at this point, you're just pushing
the brake pedal in.
You'll feel it go a little bit further in
the first time.
But as you pump it five or six times, you
feel it gets stiffer and stiffer until it
feels normal.
Now, you can repeat on the other side.
Well, guys, that's gonna wrap up my review
and install for the Power Stop OE Replacement
Brake Pad and Rotor Combo Kit available for
the front end of all '07 to '18 Silverado
1500s.
If you want, you can get your Power Stop replacements
right here at americantrucks.com.
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๋ฑ์คํฌ๋ฃจ ์ฉ์ธ DEXCREW YONG-IN:
How to Replace Overhead Center Console 14-19 Chevy Silverado
1A Auto Parts:
Top model Joceline and a 57 Chevy BelAir photoshoot
John Tisbury:
Hello, hello. You join us at our normal sort of car parky spot where we do some, where I...
some shots with the car and model. And
we're going to be doing some shots with
a Chevy today and Joceline. We're looking
at sort of 50s style pinup, that kind of
chic look. Sort of classic type of
emotional feeling to the shots so that's
our plan. Hopefully it'll go according to
plan. <laughter>
We'll see. I will keep you posted during the
day so I bought boot-full of stuff as I
always do. There's actually more my stuff
than Joceline's stuff for a change.
And we've got the iFootage so do a bit of
time-lapse. I've bought the drone along as
well so we'll do a few behind the scenes
bits and bobs as we go.
So there you go. We'll see you in a bit. Bye.
Let's go Daisy. Okay. All Daisy
because that's different from what we've
just shot isn't it. Lovely.
And you're still happy with
hair down right?
Yeah, I like it. We'll struggle a bit more here
because of the wind, but I don't mind
that if you're ok with fighting against
it. Totally.
So, so far we've shot one scene with Joss in a, we've called it a cocktail dress, sort of 50's cocktail
dress. We don't know if it is or not. Well yeah that's a fair point! I've called it
a cocktail dress so it's probably not a cocktail dress at all, and we'll get loads of
comments about what it actually is.
But anyway it's 50's we know that much
and it looks fab. Joss is now getting
changed to I'm sort of adverting...
...just checking that I can film.
I have no privacy requirements... <laughter>
So Joss is just sitting in the car just getting changed into the next
setup. We going to go with a sort of Daisy Duke look so shorts and a blouse
and we're gonna do some outside shots of
the car. The weather has been sort of
consistent. Very cloudy, overcast with the
odd bright spell, in terms of a sort of
hazy sun I guess would be the the best
way of explaining it. We had a little drop
of rain here and there but nothing
horrendous, just the odd spit. And yeah so
we're just taking a break, swapping
around. I'm sticking with... let's take you
over there show you. I'm shooting with the
flash guns so we've got two of the Nikon SB800's.
On lighting stands and triggered... Where's the camera? Triggered by something on top of the camera which
I appear to have lost. I think it's round here by Joss. Oh yes...it's on the other side. That's fine.
Joss is a bit indisposed at the moment
so we won't toddle round that way.
Just reach in and get that...
So on top of the camera we've got the Pocketwizard which
is really good actually. I really enjoy
using this because you can set it on
full manual and adjust the exposure
through these dials here. So yeah it's
very very straightforward and you can
put it on full automatic through TTL
or manual and I usually use it on manual
which is the preferred option and the
nice thing with the flash guns is that
you can adjust the zoom. So on the back
here we've got the option. Oooh, pressed too hard. There we go.
On the back here we've got the option, if you can actually see that...
We can adjust it with this. Give you a view where you can see.
So that's working through the zoom options there.
But enough of me rambling on and Joss looks like she's almost ready.
Yes!
I have a quick costume check. Yup.
Okay we won't be going with the cardy. <laughter>
Oh! Yeah how disappointing.
Such an unreasonable photographer, god!
<laughter> So sign off for now and
we'll catch up with you in a bit.
We're just having a little break.
Joceline is inside. Yes!
Just got the engine running and the heater on, to keep her warm, while we do a bit of a change of setup.
So I've just done some Daisy Duke shots at the front of the car which look really good!
So F2.8 with two flashes either side. So
I'll bring those up on screen so you
have a look at those.
And now we're going to turn the car
around so we can do some shots on the
tail fin and boot area, or trunk area, if
you're American.
So I'm just doing that set up, just moving things around. So I think what we're gonna to do...
I've never done this before. Is I"m actually going to use the Sony A7 mark III and use that for
time lapse, see how that goes.
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