5 Used SUVs You Should Never Buy
Scotty Kilmer:
Rev up your engines,
today I'm going to talk about 5 suvs that
you should never buy used, because many of
them were bad enough when they were brand
new, now suvs are getting more and more popular
because you can hold stuff in them and their
very handy and they ride pretty good these
days, the early ones were kind of bumpy but
they make them a lot better now,
well some of them are made a lot better, here
are 5 suvs that you should never buy used,
now the first suv never to buy used is the
bmw x5, you mind as well say bmw money pit,
that's all those things turn into, they've
have problems with engine oil leaks, water
leaking into the vehicle, big transmission
problems, and problems with their stability
control system that keep them from flipping
over because their so boxy, yeah their high
tech there's no arguing that, but I've had
customers with them that they got this gyro
sensor that goes bad and it's a small thing
but it costs like $1,500-1,800 for the thing,
their just high priced and it's not like their
high quality, there's so much plastic used
in those things their always getting leaks,
I had one customer with an x5, I told her,
you shouldn't have bought this thing used
their money pits, well after a year of driving
the thing and finally I put on my bmw computer
for her latest problem at it was the transmission
was going out, I did a little research and
found out that it was going to cost her 4-5
thousand to fix it so she finally got rid
of the thing, she traded it in on a used lexus
suv and boy she is happy with that lexus,
that was years ago and she's still driving
the lexus and I hardly ever she her because
the things don't break, just normal oil changes
and brake job stuff on those,
and of course bmw is so snobby they didn't
even call the x5 a suv they called it a sports
activity vehicle, well yeah because your going
to spend a lot of activity going to the bmw
dealer getting the thing fixed,
now the next suv not to buy is the cadillac
escalade, now if you want to impress your
friends and neighbors that your driving a
cadillac suv and you don't care that you get
11 mpg in actual driving, the cadillac escalade
might be for you, it's a show boat and a lot
of that show boating stuff is made out of
plastic, and guess what it cracks early and
breaks down, their known for heating and ac
problems, you might think oh that's not that
big of a deal, it's all computerized and believe
me I've seen people spend $1,500-2,500 taking
the dashs apart fixing those plastic things,
they have problems with the dash and display
system on them, just cheaply made and they'll
just come on and off at will, their poorly
made theirs no doubting that, the have early
transmission failures and awd versions they
have differential problems that cost a fortune
to fix, it's a big heavy vehicle but the internals
are not heavy duty enough, they just break
down too much from carrying all that weight
around, cadillac has been using that cadillac
top of the line image for decades, well it's
been a long time since that was even close
to the truth,
now the next suv not to buy the jeep renegade,
the renegade was created after chrysler and
fiat merged, fiat bought chrysler, the renegade
is small, it's under powered and if you tried
to take that jeep renegade off road like one
of those big jeeps good luck,
these jeep renegade, their made in Italy,
their made is Brasil, and their made in China,
they have nothing to do with the legendary
jeep, especially stay away from the 2015 renegade
that was the worst one they ever built, they
have engine failures, they have transmission
failures, they have electronic failures, the
list goes on and on and on, it's like the
combination of Italian manufacturing problems,
not surprisingly the renegades have a lot
of electronic problems, many Italian cars
have electronic weak systems that's just the
way they go, it also has a problem with blowing
head gaskets in the engine, a typical problem
that Italian cars have, you know if you want
to get a jeep I'm not that big of a fan of
the newer ones, the old ones were great, but
if you are get a regular one, don't get this
small one,
now the fourth suv not to buy used is the
Chevy traverse, I've seen engines stop on
ones that had 40,000 miles on them, the awd
system has problems and costs thousands of
dollars to fix, I mean if a vehicle has engine
and transmission problems, that says stay
away, stay far away from this vehicle, I mean
I had a customer with a traverse, it kept
flashing up service awd, then it said super
cruise system, well this car didn't have a
super cruise system yet is was saying there
was a problem in a system that it didn't even
have on the vehicle, and the gm dealer couldn't
figure out what was wrong he just lived with
that until he got rid of it, he said it was
the biggest pile of junk he ever had and he's
never going to buy another one, the last suv
never to buy used is the pontiac aztek, it
was made famous in Breaking Bad where Brian
drove one around and eventually he took it
to a garage, they fixed it all up he came
to pick it up and he looked at it and took
his hat out of the back seat, put it on his
head and walked away and gave the car to the
mechanic, I had a customer that did a similar
thing with an aztek, the thing had like 55,000
miles on it and the head gasket blew and the
engine stopped, so he had to put another engine
in, so he said to heck with that, he had a
used engine put in and then he just sold the
thing and got rid of it and said, that's it
for gm I'm never buying another one of their
products, basically the azteks were gm's version
of trying to copy a toyota matrix and man
did they fail big, the azteks actually had
a lot of different problems, but the biggest
ones were, the head gaskets of the engines
going, the transmission going out, and having
intake manifolds that would go bad and leak
oil and water into the engine, and if you
didn't watch that closely that would lead
to a blown engine too, and even if you caught
it right in the beginning you had to take
the whole engine apart and spend like $1,500
to fix something that should have never happened
in the first place, cuz I'm not talking about
cars that are 20 or 30 years old, some of
these cars were less than a year old and some
of them were 3,4,5 years old, but regardless,
they were poorly made vehicles, they don't
make them anymore obviously, now if you want
to get a pontiac suv, get a pontiac vibe,
it's the same thing as this matrix, the were
made in the same plant, the have the same
engine, transmission, wheels and everything,
the only thing different is this sheet metal
on the vehicles, so that one you can get because
it's actually a toyota product really,
showing that the expression, what's in a name
can mean a lot you want to research what's
behind that name, now sure there's plenty
of good used suvs out there but stay away
from these 5 suvs if you don't want to catch
a sports utility virus, so if you never want
to miss another one of my new car repair videos,
remember to ring that bell!
Compare the 2019 Chevy Suburban With the 2019 Ford Expedition MAX | Head to Head | Ford
Ford Motor Company:
Why You Should Buy a High Mileage Vehicle!
Ideal Media:
but before you say what if anything
catastrophic happens yeah an engine or
transmission failing on a newer car with
a hundred thousand miles is relatively
rare I'm gonna look at a car but I think
it kind of has high miles whoa whoa what
do you mean high miles
oh you know like a hundred thousand
miles bro that thing isn't even broken
in yet wait so you think I should
actually consider buying it yeah I think
you should consider buying it and here's
why yo today we're gonna be talking
about buying and enjoying cars that have
more miles because well they can save
you money and be more fun to drive in
this video I'm gonna show you how and
then at the end of this video I'm gonna
give you what I found to be the perfect
sweet spot for mileage which will give
you the best opportunity to drive the
car for free and if you are new here my
name is Brad danger and this is the I do
cars youtube channel which is for next
generation car enthusiasts interested in
ideal cars believe it or not and if it
sounds like you well hit that subscribe
button so that we can get this channel 1
subscriber closer to buying the highest
mileages McLaren 650s I really want to
buy that car so that all of us can enjoy
it on this channel okay so why do people
tend to shy away from high mileage
diamonds in the rough because they seem
to be riskier and more things tend to go
wrong with higher mileage cars in theory
and I know I know I know that there is a
slightly higher chance that something
might fail but cars are built to go
200,000 plus miles and personally I've
had multiple great experiences with
higher mileage cars that I've either
driven for free or made money by 1990 a
m3 with a hundred and nine thousand
miles on it
I made $2,000 my 1968 Mustang with a
hundred and thirteen thousand miles on
it I made six grand in my 2008 m3 with
ninety thousand miles on it
I made five thousand bucks and the best
thing is that with all these cars I got
to buy them and drive them and enjoy
them and making money was just a bonus
and that's exactly why I built the ideal
car strategies where I teach next
generation car enthusiasts the art of
properly buying and enjoying both low
and high mileage ideal cars with the
goal of either breaking even or making
money and the main reason that high
mileage examples are really enticing is
because the depreciation curve tends to
flatten out with higher mileage cars and
as you continue to put more miles on
them and enjoy them they don't
is nearly the same amount of value as
lower mileage examples and I'll dig into
that more in just a minute but before I
do
buying a newer high mileage car is
usually better than buying an older car
with less miles I mean cars are meant to
be driven and cars with more miles tend
to last longer because they can
lubricate themselves regularly and burn
those carbons that are bad for the
engine plus what I found is that more
often than not higher mileage cars are
better taken care of since the previous
owner has actively been driving it they
usually stay on top of the oil service
intervals and overall upkeep of the
vehicle and what do they say out of
sight out of mind
fluids and rubber components deteriorate
over time what I've seen is that
especially for low mileage fun cars the
chance that all service intervals and
oil changes are done on time is way less
likely and it's not a deal breaker but
when they're charging a premium for it
being low mileage it's a tough pill to
swallow and when we talk about resale
value once a car falls into that high
mileage category which definitely
differs from every make and model the
depreciation curve really flattens out
so a car that has 90,000 miles in the
same make and model has 115k will be
worth about the same on the used market
and when you're able to identify what
our high miles on a car this is exactly
how you can drive a car for free
relatively easily because you could buy
the car at ninety K drive it to 115 K
and sell it for about the same dollar
amount but before you say what if
anything catastrophic happens yeah an
engine or transmission failing on a
newer car with a hundred thousand miles
is relatively rare and if you do your
due diligence and get a pre-purchase
inspection which I teach how to properly
do in the ideal car strategies you'll be
setting yourself up for the best
ownership experience possible dare I say
ideal ownership experience yeah and
here's the biggest risk of buying a high
mileage car it's really easy to buy high
mileage cars but on the flip side
there's sometimes harder to sell and
that's exactly why I teach you how to
properly fill out the proprietary ideal
cars desirability guide to understand
what color and factory options will help
the car stick out from the rest and
bring a premium remember mileage is just
one of the factors that a potential
buyer considers when buying a car other
things like condition exterior and
interior color and factory options all
play a role in how much someone is
actually willing to pay and this is
especially true with higher per floor
it's cars which is my bread and butter
they're built with stronger components
than their lesser brethren and can last
a very long time with just normal
service so by doing your research you'll
know that an e 92 m3 with no sunroof or
with the highly sought-after competition
package can make the car substantially
more valuable even with higher miles and
a buyer will pay a premium over m3s with
less miles without those options
knowledge is king and I love being the
king baby so what I'm gonna do is I'm
gonna give you an example of the exact
same two cars with different mileages
and break down the cost per mile for you
and since we're on a BMW kick which I
usually always am let's do it with a
2013 BMW m3 now the average mileage for
this year m3 would be roughly 70 K which
if we look at KBB you can see that it's
29 960 which is what you'd get at a
private party now in 25,000 miles at 95
K it's going to be twenty five thousand
nine hundred and fifteen so if we double
the mileage which would be considered
high mileage at a hundred and forty K
you can see that it's now nineteen
thousand eight hundred and forty nine
and then if we drive that car twenty
five thousand miles to 165 K you can see
that it's seventeen thousand four
hundred and thirty five you'd get at a
private party so here's the thing if you
buy the car at 70 K drive at 25k and
sell it at ninety K it depreciates
roughly 4045 dollars and will cost you
about 16 cents per mile to drive the
beast which isn't bad but you pick up
one at double the mileage and 140k drive
it for twenty five thousand miles and
sell it with a hundred and sixty-five K
and you lose two thousand four hundred
and fourteen dollars or less than ten
cents per mile to drive that beast so
you can think of it as giving yourself a
nickel and a penny for every single mile
that you drive real quick that change
starts to add up baby
and as you can see it is clearly cheaper
to buy and drive a higher mileage car
and I can't stress this enough because I
know that people in the comments are
gonna say Oh higher mileage more issues
everything else yeah you have to get a
pre-purchase inspection from a reputable
shop otherwise it's not gonna work this
is cheap insurance to know exactly what
could go wrong that you can fix before
you buy the car the other thing which is
really important is having documented
service history of that car the higher
mileage that is especially crucial in
having an engine
ownership experience and personally I've
had multiple ideal ownership experiences
with higher mileage cars in fact I know
sometimes seek them out so I can get the
best miles out of them my McLaren will
hopefully have the highest mileage in
the USA oh and one thing I almost forgot
what is that sweet spot to ride the flat
depreciation curve for mileage well I
find that between 75 K and 100 K is that
sweet spot where you can enjoy that
ideal car for twenty to thirty thousand
miles and then have the best chance to
sell that car to the next lucky buyer
for roughly what you paid for it and why
that number well first its considered
higher mileage for almost all make and
models but also most cars will already
have had their costly major service
interval at sixty to eighty K let's say
now if that major service hasn't been
done well it's a great negotiation
tactic and an ideal opportunity to buy
it enjoy it after you service it of
course at an independent shop and
possibly make money on that deal now
that's what I call an ideal car and I
want to know what's the highest mileage
car that you've owned what was your
ownership experience like did you get a
pre-purchase inspection before you
bought that car let us know down in the
comments also snag some ideal swag
guaranteed to add five horsepower or six
if your car has over 200 K okay so if
you liked this video you're gonna love
my one minute video that I introduce the
tried-and-true ideal car strategies
where I teach you how to never lose
money on a car again so check that out
over here or if you want to see what
YouTube recommends you watch next click
here oh and if you haven't subscribed
yet give me one subscriber closer that
McLaren but either way you can't lose
and as always keep living that ideal
lifestyle
2020 Corvette Stingray Review ― Test Drive of the New Corvette C8
Edmunds:
KURT NIEBUHR: You know,
there's been a lot of buzz
around this all new Corvette.
It's supposed to be mid-engine.
It's faster.
It's supposed to have a really
nice interior in it too.
It's supposed to
handle really well.
It's supposed to be a lot.
I'll believe it when I see it.
[MUSIC PLAYING]
If we can ignore the fact that
this new Corvette is completely
new and is also a
mid-engine Corvette--
try really hard to ignore the
fact that this is a mid-engine
Corvette--
the interior on this car is
the biggest talking point.
It's amazing.
It's really well crafted.
It's nice.
It looks like no other
Corvette interior ever,
and that's a good thing.
So the first thing you
really see on the inside
when you sit down is
the steering wheel,
which is a two-spoke steering
wheel, something you wouldn't
expect in a sports car.
But it's also a little square.
And when you're on the
road, it doesn't really
matter that much.
You're not putting a lot
of lock into the wheel.
And once you start to make
U-turns or tighter turns,
it does get a little
weird because you wind up
grabbing a corner.
It's not the end of the world.
It's just unique.
So the second thing you're
likely to see in this car--
maybe it's the first thing--
is this climate
control arrangement.
And they've put all of the
buttons, all of the switches
in a row, which is unique.
When I first saw it in pictures,
I wasn't thrilled about it.
But to be honest, now that I've
spent some time in the car,
it does work.
And the climate control
system is pretty good.
So you just set it, and then
you don't even look at it.
And it frees up this
whole center console area
and keeps it relatively
clutter free.
But like the square
steering wheel, it's unique.
Another big change with
this brand new Corvette
is the digital instrument panel.
And it changes with the
drive mode that you select.
And some manufacturers can
get that a little tacky
with explosions and weird swipes
and changes on the screen.
The Corvette is very simple.
And when you change the
instrument panel display,
the heads up display also
changes at the same time.
I think it's kind of cool.
It's one of the better
executions on the market.
So the passenger seat
in the new Corvette
is what I like to call the
sit down and shut up seat,
because as you can
see, you really
don't have anything to control.
You have seat ventilation, seat
heating, and climate control
buttons.
Everything else--
that's for the driver,
kind of as it should be.
Another nice touch
on this interior,
and one that was
totally unexpected,
are these nifty
little air vents.
I'll admit-- at first glance,
they looked a little useless.
But they have good airflow,
good adjustability,
and they're well-made
with a nice, oily action.
I think they're pretty cool.
[ROCK MUSIC]
Yeah, yeah, so who cares
about the rest of it, right?
What's it like to drive?
Well, it's got a 6.2-liter V8,
495 horsepower with the Z51
exhaust, 470 foot
pounds of torque.
I mean, it's a small
block Chevy, man.
It's great.
Ah, listen to that.
There's only one
transmission offered in this,
and it's an
eight-speed automatic.
Now, before you get all sad and
wish that they made a manual,
I can tell you that the
time I've spent in this car,
I have never wanted
for a manual.
This transmission is very
smooth and quick acting,
and the shifts are seamless.
Listen to that.
And as an added bonus, these
shift paddles are heavy.
They're metallic.
They feel really good.
It's just-- it's
extra confidence,
and it just makes the whole car
feel better and more upscale
than it's ever felt before.
The way this thing shifts--
downshifts really
quickly, upshifts quickly.
Everything is
seamless and smooth,
and the car is never
upset by the transmission.
For all the power
that this car makes,
that's something to
really celebrate.
I wouldn't even buy a manual
transmission in this car
if they offered it.
Yeah, you can take away
my performance driving
card if you want.
I don't care.
That's a Lotus Elise.
How fast is it?
Well, we were able to
take it to our test track
and put the car
through its paces,
so let's go see how that went.
[MUSIC PLAYING]
First off, yes, these
numbers aren't as quick
as we were expecting.
But since we didn't have
access to 93 octane,
we only get 91
octane in California,
and we used a fairly
standard asphalt surface,
we were limited on
outright traction.
The Vet spun its wheels
through most of first gear,
even with launch control, so
these are real world numbers.
But hey, 3.2 seconds
to 60, 11.5 seconds,
and 118.7 miles an hour
through the quarter mile
is nothing to sneeze at.
105 feet from 60 miles
an hour is pretty solid.
There is good consistency
and stability.
Of course, wider grip
your tires would easily
shave off another 10 feet.
We suspect they're saving
those for the inevitable Z06.
Pulling 1.09 on the skid
pad puts the Corvette
in some pretty rare
company, and that's
with Pilot Sport 4Ss and a
fairly narrow 245 section front
tire.
Sure, we could talk about
how it needs more tire,
but this number speaks volumes
about the chassis, suspension,
and differential tunings.
FYI-- that number was pulled in
track mode with ESC fully off.
[MUSIC PLAYING]
That small block V8 provides
what you'd expect out
of a small block V8--
a broad, meaty power
band that sounds
just amazing at full
throttle, just amazing.
[ENGINE REVVING]
See?
Amazing.
Probably the biggest
change with this Corvette
is how fast you can go with it.
I'm not saying the other
Corvettes were slow.
The C7 was no slouch.
The C6 was no slouch.
Any Z06-- ferocious.
But you had to be really
careful with them.
And unless you spent a lot
of time in an older Corvette,
it took a while to
get to know the car.
And they could catch you out.
They could catch out
experienced drivers
simply because the
front axle didn't really
tell you what was going on,
how much grip you had left.
You know?
In this car, it's talking
to you constantly.
I know right where the
grip is on the front end.
Also unlike those
older Corvettes,
the back end on this
car behaves itself.
495 horsepower in this
trim follows the front,
helps power you out of corners.
I am not afraid of
this car on this road.
And I wouldn't be driving
a C7 or a C6 Corvette
anywhere near this quickly.
In order to drive
on a road like this,
as hard as you want to drive on
it, you need good brakes too.
With the Z51 package,
you get good brakes.
I think they're 13.6 inch in
the front and 13.8 in the back.
I hope I got that right.
[DINGING]
If I didn't, I'm
sure the Corvette
forums will let me know.
But there's a lot of feel
with these brakes too,
and the pedal is
solid and consistent.
Much like the ability to change
steering effort and weighting,
this Corvette allows you to
change brake pedal pressure.
So if you like a harder,
more immediate pedal,
you can punch it up.
Punch it up on the screen,
and you can change it.
That changes with the
drive mode as well.
My feet aren't
sophisticated enough
to really tell the
individual modes apart,
but I spend no time adjusting
in between the modes.
The brakes are intuitive
and easy to use.
And when you're going fast,
that's the best thing to be.
All of this phenomenal
grip is brought to you
by rather ordinary Michelin
Pilot Sport 4S tires.
These are tires you can find
on a lot of normal cars.
In other words, they're
not super hero tires.
They have tread.
They're not noisy,
but they still
offer near supercar
levels of grip.
That just goes to show you
how good the chassis is.
So this car has three
main drive modes.
And I'm going to
say three because I
live in LA, so I don't need a
snow mode or a weather mode.
You've got the
touring mode, which
is what we're in right now.
And it just slackens off
the shocks a little bit.
It's really good compliance.
This is a pretty bumpy road,
and I'm not that upset.
It also tones down the exhaust.
You get a lighter steering
feel and the slightly less
jumpy throttle.
Moving into sport
mode, everything
gets a little bit more intense.
The throttle becomes
more sensitive.
The ride becomes a
little bit more firm,
as you can probably see.
And sport mode is a really good
all-around mode in this car.
You could drive in
sport mode all the time.
You can even drive it on this
road, which is fantastic,
and you wouldn't really
want for anything else.
But there is track mode.
The track mode is not silly.
I've driven cars with track
modes that try and knock
the fillings out of your teeth.
This car, with the
[INAUDIBLE] shocks,
gets tracked mode right.
So I've got two
complaints with this car.
They're not really
serious complaints
because you don't have to get
these things, like this tan.
This tan causes reflections
all through the windshield.
It's really annoying.
But you can get it in black,
so just buy it in black.
So the other complaint
I have are these seats.
Now, these are the
competition seats.
And I know that I'm not a small
man, but I'm not that big.
I'm 6'1", like 210 pounds.
But these seats pinch
my legs to the point
where it's uncomfortable.
But just like the tan
leather up here, you
don't have to get these seats.
You have two other options--
the regular seat, and
you have the GT2 seat.
I'd get the GT2 seat.
So the Corvettes
is an automatic.
Will the Corvette do a burnout?
Of course the Corvette
will do a burnout.
Turn traction control off.
Pull the paddles to
put it in neutral.
Ride the rev limiter.
[ENGINE REVVING]
Oh!
Proper burnout.
[MUSIC PLAYING]
So maybe it's a
good thing that we
didn't have as much
time in the Corvette
as we wanted to, because
I think if I kept
driving that, I'd get arrested.
It's really fast.
It's so composed and so easy to
drive on any manner of roads,
even on the open highway.
It's a total piece of cake.
This mid-engine car has
ushered in a whole new era
for Corvette, and I
think it was about time.
So what does this
car compete with?
It is basically a
mid-engine supercar,
but it doesn't cost as much
as a mid-engine supercar.
It's about half
the price or less.
So a base Corvette is $60,000.
The one that you see behind
us is pretty well optioned up,
but that's still about
$83,800, I think.
In that car's price range is
now the BMW M4, which is slower.
It's the Shelby GT350,
which is slower.
It is the Porsche 718 Cayman
S, which is slower and does not
have the rad V8 engine in it.
And there are probably a
couple other cars in the class
that I have missed simply
because I can't remember them,
because they don't make as
much of an impression on me
as this thing does.
This is-- it's really that good.
I'm genuinely surprised
at how good this car is.
So yeah, this is a shorter
video than you'd probably like,
and we really need to get into
the minutia about this car,
but we didn't have
a lot of time.
But fear not.
Edmunds has bought a
2020 Chevrolet Corvette.
That's right.
We bought one, and we're
going to keep it for a year.
So subscribe so
that you don't miss
any of those upcoming
videos, probably late
January or early February.
[MUSIC PLAYING]
CHEVY ASTRO VAN - Everything You Need to Know | Up to Speed
Donut Media:
(care engine roaring)
(metal scraping)
- Do you have a passion for
the ultimate family mobile?
Something that can handle
a trip to Home Depot
for plywood, Costco for groceries in bulk,
a road trip across America with grandma
to see Mount Rushmore,
and trips to hockey practice
with the entire team?
Well, mama and papa do
I have a car for you.
A car that's not a car.
It's a van.
This is everything you need to know
to get up to speed on
the Chevrolet Astro Van.
(lighting striking)
(upbeat electric music).
Big thanks to this weeks sponsor Audible.
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Support the companies that support Donut,
we couldn't make it without them.
Now, back to the show.
Before we start talking about vans,
we should first mention the Station Wagon.
The once upon a time stereotypical
American family vehicle.
The Station Wagon dangerously carried
Many-a-restless kid
across the American roads
seat belts optional.
But, in the late 1970s the sale of big
gas guzzling Station
Wagons was on the decline.
The do it all wagons
future was looking grim,
partly due to the gas prices,
but more partly due because
of the new category of cars.
So, in 1984 the Chrysler
van program birthed,
the Plymouth Voyager mini-van.
The first of it's kind, the Voyager was
hugely popular for it's ability
to tote all the kids around,
get better gas mileage
then a Station Wagon,
and, yes, be able to fit
in a garage safely away
from those mean suburban streets,
It was a great all around
package for the modern family,
and GM quickly realized that
hey needed their own version
of the the mini-van.
- Should we make our own miniature van?
- Uh Yeah!
We already have one in the works.
Don't you know about it?
- Uh, 'course I do.
What's it called?
- The Astro
- Astro!
Yep, I said it first.
I knew it, totally knew it.
There's a reason I'm the boss.
Keeping with the space theme that Plymouth
started with the Voyager,
in 1985 Chevy released their all new
not so mini mini-van the Chevy Astro,
A van so sick, it cam time-warp,
and drive on the rings of Saturn.
The boxy middle van and
it's twin GMC brother
the Safari were only 1.5 inches shorter,
and 2 and a half narrower than Chevy's
smallest full-size van.
And, while it was seven inches shorter,
and claimed to be able to fit in a garage,
Chevy quickly acknowledged
their bulked up box on wheels,
and used the middle van
status in their advertising.
- [Man] The new Chevy Astro.
Built to do more than a mini-van can.
- Not a mini-van, not a full-size van,
but a middle van.
The real world giant box mobile
had multiple seating configurations,
allowing you to carry you,
and seven of your so-called friends.
Let's be honest,
they just wanted to sit In those
comfy, cozy, fluffy, cloth bench seats.
Or, you could take out all the seats,
and use it as a cargo van.
Unlike it's mini-van competition,
the Astro was built on a truck chassis,
with a bolt-on sub frame.
The front suspension shared many
of the same components directly from
the Caprice Station Wagon,
while the rear had composite
leaf springs like the S-10.
Engine options on the first year Astro,
were either the 98 Mini Shetland Pony
Horsepower 2.3 liter four cylinder,
or the optional 165
midi-horsepower 4.3 liter V6.
(engine roaring)
And the placement of said engines?
How bout' right under the
front dash cup holders.
You could swap out your battery,
and check the oil in
the mini-hood up front.
But, any serious work
would have to be done
inside the van.
A big bump in between
the two front seats got
covered with a hatch,
and gave way to an access panel,
that once removed exposed
the engine on the Astro.
Mechanics loved it.
The coolest part,
is that you could get it with a manual.
That's right, the base transmission
that the Astro came with,
was a four speed manual which is sick.
And, you could get it with an
optional five speed until 1989.
After that they went full auto.
But, I'm grateful that
it was manual at all.
(chiming music)
By the end of the eighties, the demand for
mini-vans as family vehicles had largley
superseded full size
Station Wagons in the US.
Rest in peace Station Wagon.
It wouldn't be until 1989 that Chevy
would release a more comparable
front wheel drive van
to take on the Chrysler mini-van.
The Lumina APV.
But, that didn't stop GM from also selling
the Astro and the Safari.
People loved it for it's ability
to not only haul kids around,
but also haul stuff around.
The Astro could pull five thousand pounds.
No other mini-van was
pullin' that kind of weight.
It could also carry 1700
pounds in the cargo area.
That's a lot of fat little boys.
- All right kids, let's
go to hockey practice.
- Can we all stop at McDonald's?
- Yeah, I want some nuggets.
- Yeah, I wanna get a Big Mac.
- Yeah, we can get the McDonald's.
- Yay, chunky butts on three.
One, two, three,
- [All] Chunky butts!
- Chunky butts.
- Side note, Chevy marketed
Astro van to fat people.
- [Man] Tired of watching your weight?
If you had a GMC Safari,
you wouldn't have to.
- With a strong commercial game like that,
how could you not want an
Astro if you're a chunky butt?
Towards the final stretch
of the first gen Astro,
GM really started to
turn up the technology.
In 1990, the Astro came
with all wheel drive,
as well as four wheel anti-lock brakes.
Their competitors over at Ford,
with the Aerostar.
Again, another space theme van.
What is the deal?
They didn't have ABS, all right?
And, that's pretty important when you're
carrying your fat little family around.
And you got a space car,
you don't want regular doors,
you want dutch doors.
Two rear doors with flip
up windows on top of 'em.
And Dutch people love 'em.
Also because parents were
complaining about their
fat little kids making a mess,
Scotch Guard Fabric Protection also
became a standard feature with
Astro vans with cloth seats.
The second gen Astro came out in 1995,
and Chevy was deep in the,
let's sell this thing as a tough dude
all family vehicle game.
Load the back up with dirt bikes, sure!
Total horse trailer? Yeah!
The Astro was tough like a rock!
♪ Oh, like a rock. ♪
- But not much really
changed from the first gen
to the second gen Astros.
They got updated headlights to match the
rectangular ones on the Silverado.
There was also only one engine option.
The 4.3 liter Vortec V6.
And, there was only one body option.
The shorter version was ditched,
They did improve that engine hatch in the
center of the two front seats
to increase front leg room,
and help cut down on interior noise.
You know, since the
motor was inside the car?
They improved dash installation too.
You know, 'cause the
motor's inside the car.
(engine roaring)
(tires screeching)
The second gen also got passenger airbags
which by the way, speaking of safety,
the Astro was not safe.
It eventually improved
from a one gold star
rating in 1991, to three gold star rating,
for the driver only in 2000.
If you were a kid in the
eighties or nineties,
and your friends had an Astro,
they were the bell of the ball.
But, if they had a conversion van Astro,
they were the king of the ball.
Companies like Glaval,
Mark III, and Star Craft,
took the bone stock Astro,
and turned them into
lush rich kids basements
on wheels.
The summer road trip van made visiting
your grandparents not all that bad because
you could watch freakin'
movies and play Super Nintendo
all while sitting in the most comfortable
captains chairs on the planet.
Yeah, that's right.
It's a chair for a freakin' captain.
He's the leader of the ship.
If your eyes got too tired from playing
video games or watching
Mrs. Doubtfire on VHS,
because of course it has a VHS player,
You could just crawl on
over to the back bench seat,
fold it down and take a big old nap.
Safe? No.
Comfortable?
You betcha' chunky little butt it is.
- [All] Chunky butts
- Chunky butts
- My friend Vince's dad had an Astro van,
and we played Earthworm Gym for hours.
And we were in the driveway.
The Astro helped put conversion vans
on the map for the masses.
In 1994 there was
roughly 200,000 shipments
of van conversions to dealers.
People all over the world
loved their conversion Astros.
Even this guy, AKA Russian James.
(speaking in Russian)
(retro video game sounds)
The Astro space van would eventually
end in 2005 as well as Chevy mini-vans.
The venture to consolidate
for a single mini-van,
the Uplander.
But, that didn't last long.
Four years later, Chevy left
the mini-van market completely,
and while the majority
of Astro's have found
their way into the hands
of construction workers,
van life hipsters, or
sadly even junk yards,
it still remains as the
not so mini mini-van
that warmed our fuzzy little
nostalgic chunky butts.
(upbeat electronic music)
Uncovering $1,000,000 Barn Find | Barn Find Hunter - Ep. 16
Hagerty:
The Best OBD2 Scanner of 2019
Your Best Digs:
After ten weeks of research, testing and comparing
features, then consulting with a local expert
diagnostic technician, we picked the BlueDriver
as the best OBD2 scanner.
The BlueDriver app and adapter combo has better
compatibility with systems like ABS and airbags
than anything else under $100, and unlike
some scanners you won't have to guess about
what apps and cars it will work with.
Now, this review wasn't sponsored, and we
bought all of these scanners ourselves.
We set out to find the best value for a car
enthusiast who
just wants to know why that warning light came on.
We found three top picks: one for advanced
smartphone scanning, one for no-fuss diagnostic work
and one for teaching your car new tricks.
So, what is OBD2 anyway?
There's a lot going on under the hood of your
car, and an on-board diagnostic scanner
can give you a look at the data from the essential
systems.
Every car sold in the US after 1996 has included
an on-board diagnostic computer system
that works with the OBD2 standard.
If you live in a state that requires a "smog
check," OBD2 is the system they're plugging
into to make sure your engine is running the
way it should.
If the computer sees a failure in an essential
system, it records the information
and turns on your dashboard’s "malfunction indicator
lamp" - the check engine light.
So, an OBD scanner, even the super-cheap ones,
can show you that "fault code" to tell you
what triggered a check engine light.
Most scanners can even show you the "freeze
frame" of what was going on with your car's
systems when that problem popped up.
More advanced scanners will also show you
readouts of your engine's systems in real
time, either numerically or as a graph.
Once you get above the $100 range, scanners
start to do other stuff, too, like checking
manufacturer-specific airbag and braking systems
that aren't included in the basic OBD system.
So, what's the deal with Bluetooth scanners?
The latest trend in diagnostic tools is to
skip the standalone hardware and use a bluetooth
adapter to send the car's data stream wirelessly
to a smartphone or tablet.
Just make sure the adapter you buy is compatible
with your device and the app you want to use.
Some smartphone apps can do cool tricks that
standalone scanners can't, like showing a
virtual dashboard or logging performance on
a map.
So, we bought seven standalone plug-in scanners
and four Bluetooth adapters.
Here’s a list of the best OBD-II scanners:
The best Bluetooth scan adapters to get data
into your smartphone are:
#1 - Lemur - Bluedriver
#2 - Carista - Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter
#3 - Veepeak - OBDcheck BLE
#4 - BAFX - 34t5
For standalone scanners that work all by themselves
we picked:
#1 - Launch - CReader V+
#2 - Foxwell - NT301
#3 - Launch - CReader 4001
#4 - Innova - 3030g2
#5 - Autel - AutoLink AL319
#6 - Ancel - AD310
#7 - Autel - MaxiScan MS300
We tracked down three specific systems we
could unplug to make our test car's computer
generate a consistent set of error codes.
Then we plugged in each scanner to see if
it could read and clear that warning.
First, we unplugged an O2 sensor to confuse
the emissions monitoring system
and generate a generic check engine light.
Next, we unplugged a braking system fuse to
throw off the ABS computer.
And finally, we unplugged the weight sensor
cables under the passenger seat
to get an airbag warning code.
The first basic emissions code was easy for
all of the scanners to catch,
it's a system that OBD2 was built around.
The other two codes are specialized systems
that use manufacturer-specific programming,
and we could only reset them with the more
sophisticated BlueDriver app.
This video is just a quick look at our favorites
out of the 12 scanners we tested, if you want
to look at results from all of our tests and
compare some of the other models, head over
to our full review on YourBestDigs.com.
Our top pick overall is BlueDriver from
a little company called Lemur.
We were a bit skeptical when we first started
seeing reviews of the BlueDriver, it's unheard
of for a $100 scanner to have all of these
features
(you normally wouldn’t see these codes without a $2-300 scan tool).
It is right at the top of the price range
for this lineup of affordable scanners, but
if you need to scan ABS and Airbag systems
it's a bargain.
Now, BlueDriver can't read every system on
every car, so make sure to check the compatibility
list on their website before you buy for a
specific job, but the list of systems it will
read is downright impressive.
Some other scanners only list vague compatibility
ranges.
We were pretty frustrated that the Innova
didn't read our test car's ABS codes, but
the BlueDriver list was precise and accurate.
The fact that BlueDriver app gets regular
updates makes it more
future-proof than most other scanners.
The app is free, too, so you won't need to
pay to unlock advanced features or if you
borrow the hardware from a friend.
What about downsides?
Sure enough, even this wonder-scanner isn't
perfect.
We loved the interface overall, but the graph
readout takes some tweaking
to make it really useful.
Doing a complete scan is pretty slow, too.
BlueDriver's adapter also doesn't connect
to other apps for stuff like mapping.
That's kind of annoying, though it's nice
to have the adapter and app
working together seamlessly.
OK, we know that some of you hate the idea
of relying on a smartphone or iPad to work
on cars, so we also recommend the Launch - CReader
V+.
We didn't find any standalone models in our
$100 budget that could read all
the extra systems that BlueDriver can, but
for less than fifty bucks the CReader reads
basic OBD codes without any extra complications.
The feature that really sets this scanner
apart is that
it has the best real-time graph display.
We like the customizability of BlueDriver's
interface, but the CReader graph just gives
you the data you need with no tweaking.
The V+ also connects to a few other systems,
like mode 6
and the fuel evaporation system test.
The cheaper model from Launch is nearly the
same in every other way, but for about $10
more we think it's worth having the
extra systems.
The CReader's interface isn't as polished
as the BlueDriver app, but there’s no doubting
that it's a reliable tool at a good price.
Now if there's nothing wrong with your car
and you're more of a power user than a mechanic,
the Carista app and adapter combo are worth
taking a look at,
maybe even in addition to the CReader or BlueDriver.
Carista's app includes basic OBD2 scanning,
but mostly it gives you control of some of
the programmed features of your car's control
systems.
So, for example, we can makes Cara's windows
and sunroof open from the remote like this:
Carista isn't really a diagnostic tool as
much as a key to the
hidden secrets of your car's features.
This is also probably the easiest way to reset
those pesky oil change lights on newer cars,
but check for compatibility if that's on your
wish list.
We were also a fan of the Carista adapter's
price: last year it was $40, but at the new
$20 price, it's the best way to get into specialized
Android and iOS apps.
This means you can use good diagnostic apps
like OBD fusion and Torque, so it's definitely
our pick for a multi-purpose Bluetooth adapter.
But then, the flaws.
Apps like Carista and other diagnostic apps
have subscription or unlock fees for advanced
functions, so it's not just a $20 adapter
you'll be paying for.
If you work on a bunch of different cars BlueDriver's
one-time purchase will probably be cheaper.
(Bluedriver also had better compatibility
than those apps in our tests.)
Also note, the Carista app is supposed to work
with other bluetooth hardware in addition
to their own, but it only worked with one
other Android-only adapter we tested.
Not a huge deal now that their adapter is $20,
but if you've already got a different adapter
that works fine with other apps it's a bummer.
So, those are our three picks for OBD2 scanners.
If you want to see more details about compatibility and pricing
check out our full write-up on YourBestDigs.com.
Don't forget to like and subscribe, and sign up for our email
list if you don't want to miss out on our
newest reviews!
How to Load a Car onto a U-Haul Tow Dolly
U-Haul:
Hi, I'm Sperry hutchinson. Today we're gonna
show you how to load your vehicle onto a
tow dolly.
Park the towing vehicle and tow dolly
in line with each other, on level ground
and park,
with the engine off and parking brake
set.
Make sure the coupler hand wheel is
tight and the ball clamp is below the
coupler and closing the hitch ball.
Ensure the safety chains are crossed left to
right
are secured using the S-hooks and rubber
retainers and do not drag on the ground.
Also, check that the trailer wiring
lead is connected.
Now, we can begin to prepare the tow dolly.
Prepare the loading ramps
by releasing the latch pins, while pulling the ramps completely out.
Disengage both straps from the ratchet
spool by pulling the release lever,
while raising the handle up until it locks.
Free the straps,
by pulling them upward and lay them flat on the
deck of the tow dolly.
Center the vehicle to be loaded behind
the tow dolly.
If assisting during the loading process,
do not stand between the towing vehicle
and the tow dolly.
Always stand off to the side. Drive
slowly up the ramps
until the vehicle's tires come to rest
against the stops.
Before exiting the vehicle, secure the
steering wheel,
and ensure the parking brake is not
engaged.
Begin securing the vehicle by routing
the straps up and over the tires,
making sure they're centered and in contact
with both
inner and outer side walls. Align the
ratchet with the center of the tire.
Route the strap through the slot on the
ratchet spool, making sure at least six
inches
of the strap passes through the spool.
Tighten the ratchet, folding the handle
down when done.
Finish securing the vehicle by fastening
the security chains to the frame
or other structural member, being sure
to avoid any wiring,
hoses or break lines. Be sure to leave a
few inches of slack in the chains,
looping them around and, securing them
through an open link
using the S-hooks and rubber retainers. The
chains may also be twisted to remove
excess slack.
Stow the ramps by lifting them and
sliding them back into the tow dolly,
until the latch pins reengage.
Recheck that all components are secure
before moving the vehicles
and check again after driving a short
distance, and at stops along your journey.
Remember to always wear your seatbelt, adjust your vehicles mirrors,
and slow down while towing. For more
information,
visit myuhaul.com or refer to the
user's guide available at your U-Haul
store.
Deep Cleaning A Range Rover Sport! Complete Full Car Interior & Exterior Detailing!
Stauffer Garage:
[Music]
what's up guys welcome back to stauffer
garage today's video is going to be a
first for my channel it is going to be a
full exterior and interior detail of our
Range Rover Sport supercharged version
which it needs to be done and if you
guys are new and you like these sort of
videos make sure you hit the subscribe
button below and turn on notifications
because this is gonna be one of many
full exterior and interior details that
are gonna be all my channels so without
further ado let's rock and roll
alright so the first thing that we're
gonna do is I'm gonna start with the
engine bay it's just gonna be a light
clean because you guys could tell
probably from the video clips it's
really not that dirty and then for the
wheels we're gonna start with the front
left and kind of work our way around and
then we're gonna also get the exhaust
tips as well and then we're gonna follow
up with the foam cannon and wash it off
with the two bucket method which we'll
go into more detail when we get to that
step once the car is dry then we'll be
pulling it inside to then start on the
interior do the back you mean and go
through the whole steps and process for
that but for right now let's go ahead
and get started on the engine work our
way on the exterior of the car and then
we'll get into the car inside the car
once we can bring it inside and
hopefully this rain lets up because it's
gonna be a little bit of a tough job to
film when it's raining so go ahead and
pull out your table pull out your roller
cart whatever you put all your products
on get those all pulled out and get
ready for the rest of the detail I have
a bucket that's specific for wheels and
tires and for the engine and for the
exhaust as well and I'm using specific
tools for those different parts of the
vehicle so that way I'm not using them
on the paint and causing any scratching
or marring because usually those areas
are a lot dirtier than the paint itself
so for the engine bay I'm using a
pressure washer to wash off the door
jambs get any leaves or dirt that is
kind of caked on that comes off easily
spray off those jams spray underneath
the hood and then focus on an
all-purpose cleaner and a soft bristle
brush to agitate the dirt that is in
those different areas that are harder to
reach and then rinsing those off of the
pressure washer
I like you the engine bay first to get
the dirt off the fenders and underneath
the hood before I actually start washing
the outside of the paint that way all
that dirt doesn't kind of start leaking
down as you're washing the car and
you're not introducing any dirt to that
surface after you've already washed it
and cleaned it in the first place for
the larger areas of the engine bay I
just have my wash mitt this is an older
wash mitt and that's kind of why I save
it for the wheels in the engine so I'm
using that to kind of wash the edges and
then rinse it off with my pressure
washer
[Music]
so for the wheels I like to initially
spray them off and then spray off the
inside of the wheel wells because that
is an area that a lot of people neglect
but there is a lot of dirt in there and
it's just a little extra touch that
elevates your detail afterwards
[Music]
I have several different brushes that I
use I have a longer bristle brush that
is actually bendable and I use that to
get behind the spokes get behind the
rakes in this particular car the Brembo
calipers are pretty big and it does fit
in those areas to get those calipers
clean get the inside of the wheel drums
clean and then I have a smaller bristle
brush that I use for those lug nut areas
that are harder to get to and for the
caliper bolts and things like that now
after I've done all of the scrubbing of
the tuile I like to rinse it off and
then apply my iron X which Iron X is a
newer product for me that I've actually
found to be extremely helpful with
getting that last little bit of grime
and iron off of the wheels and you can
see the color change which actually
helps tell you if it's working or not
all right now for the paint of the
vehicle I do follow the two bucket
methods which is two different buckets
with grit guards and then I do have to
wash myths that I use specifically for
the outside of the car if I need to
typically what happens is a lot of times
if you accidentally drop one I try to
just put that one inside and wash it
later on and then I have a backup mitt
already in my buckets it usually helps
me out with not timing to slow down the
process but the first step with any wash
is obviously rinse the car off with your
pressure washer and just straight water
first and then I'm using my foam cannon
to saturate the paint with just the
initial soaking of the vehicle before I
use my mitt now the foam cannon is one
of those things that people question
whether or not it's super effective or
if it's helpful it's kind of for show to
be honest I already have all the tools I
like to use it for fun and it does kind
of give it a cool effect now if you're
not familiar with the two bucket method
you do have two buckets one bucket you
has your soapy water with a grit guard
and then you have a rinse bucket that is
this specifically for rinsing your mitt
out after you wash a specific panel of
the vehicle now when you wash a car I
always start at the top and you want to
start with one side of your wash mitt
wash off one section of a panel and then
flip them right over and you can do
another panel and then rinse it off in
your rinse bucket and wring it out and
then you can put it back into your wash
bucket so that way you're not bringing
in any dirt into your leaned water
bucket as much it does help with cutting
down on the dirt and grit that actually
gets back onto the paint when you're
washing the next panel one other tip
that I do is I have these soft bristle
brushes that are boar's hair that I use
for any exterior agitation or small
cracked areas like here on the fender I
used it in the grill I used it in the
different emblems it helps get into
those areas that are really hard to
reach with a microfiber mitt with just
your finger now like I said I started at
the top I do work my way down but I
leave the bottom quarter panels the
front bumper and the bottom of the rear
bumper to last and they are usually the
dirtiest parts of a vehicle's exterior
and by saving those for last you're not
introducing that dirt onto the rest of
the paint
[Music]
[Music]
now when it comes to drying I'm just
using a waffle weave drying towel and
then I have an air compressor as well
for some of those different little
cracks like the grill in particularly
here in the emblems on the side and it
does help with getting some of that
extra water out you can use an air
compressor on your door handles your any
any cracks or crevices it is helpful but
in this case the car was already pretty
effective at beating off water now for
my wax coat like I said the car is in
pretty good condition but there's always
a top layer that you could add to the
vehicle just to give that extra shine
and luster and in this case I'm just
using a basic synthetic wax this one's
from Chemical Guys and the reason why I
like to use just a basic synthetic wax
is because ceramic coatings and some of
these more high-end coatings that you're
seeing a lot of they're not hard to
apply but the prep is super super high
and to be honest for the average
enthusiast for the average car person
that needs to wash their car has a busy
job has kids whatever you guys got going
on and when you have busy lives when you
have a ceramic coating there's a certain
level of upkeep that has to take place
in order to preserve it and keep it
lasting as long as it does without
marring it and for me personally doing a
corrective once a year or once every
other year as long as I can keep my wax
level up and do this once every other
week once a month you can usually keep
kind of that sealant and that wax on the
surface enough that you really don't
have that bad of a finish over time and
if you are following two bucket method
and you're not driving the car through a
car wash you really don't have that big
of an issue with the paint getting
scratched up very quickly now for the
tires I'm just using a simple tire
dressing in my applicator pad to dress
the tires after they've been dried off
really really thrilled with how this
turn out making white paint look glassy
and wet like this is really really hard
to do and when you get it right it's
amazing so the painting exterior is done
it is now time to move to the inside of
the car and in fact we're going to start
with vacuuming and then we're going to
roll through the rest of the interior
I'm just gonna steam the door jambs and
kind of clean those up but the majority
of the car just needs to kind of be
wiped down and kind of cleaned up a
little bit because it doesn't have as
much dirt as I typically see what some
of my details so let's go ahead and get
started and like I said first start with
vacuuming now for any detail I mentioned
that the first step is vacuuming it's
obviously has to be pulling everything
out of the car first and then you can
follow with vacuuming and in this case
this is my wife's car it has two car
seats in and it has a lot of papers
Starbucks cups you name it but after you
get everything pulled out of the vehicle
go ahead and move into the vacuuming
stage which get as much out as you can
and I try to do vacuuming first because
when you're riping off the trim panels
on the lower door rockers or on the
sides if you have dirt on the carpet
already and you're wiping those panels
off after you've cleaned them or
scrubbed them you're gonna introduce
dirt back onto that surface so that's
why I like to do vacuuming first and
then at the very end of the detail if I
need to do a follow-up vacuum or like
more of a maintenance vac that is the
time to do it
[Music]
now as a nice little effect in the trunk
I've been kind of experimenting and it's
just a little added effect is putting
different carpet lines into the rear
carpet is this kind of fun something to
add to it they kind of give people more
of a visual like appearance that when
this person really took the time to
detail the car now if you guys have seen
my other videos I am a big fan of steam
cleaners so I'm using it to clean around
the all the different door jams in the
vehicle on the trunk the doors
everywhere I'm a big fan and big
proponent of steam cleaners they do a
really good job at lifting off dirt kind
of just using steam to do the job for
you instead of a lot of chemicals
[Music]
so I like to start at the front
passenger side door and I use the steam
cleaner to clean the door jambs around
the door itself and then also the car
itself and then I'm following up just
with Chemical Guys soak and shine too
then dress the panels because like I
mentioned the car wasn't extremely dirty
and all it needed to do is just get
wiped off and kind of dressed up again
and I'll follow this process as I move
around the car to the rear passenger the
trunk area and then all the way to route
to the driver's side
[Music]
now in the door jambs sometimes you need
to use a soft bristle brush to get some
of that dirt but half the time usually
just a clean microfiber towel and your
steam cleaner will get the dirt off and
allow you to get the rest of it off
after the second pass
[Music]
on the door sills when you first go into
the car that's where I using the steam
cleaner and bristle brush really does
become helpful because you have those
different seams and lines in the plastic
that are hard to get to just a steam
cleaner it helps kind of get that dirt
moving a little bit faster
[Music]
so I like to use Chemical Guys soaked in
shine because it's not really greasy and
doesn't really leave any sort of surface
like wetness to it like some other
products so I can use it on the seats I
can use it on the steering wheel I can
use it on the pedals without having to
worry about it being slippery after the
customer gets the car back
[Music]
are you really a messenger son to you
I won't close my door no matter what you
say bring it down the clothes are still
on my door they speak to me now
[Music]
so now for the leather seats I'm just
using a product that is more of a
conditioner because like I said they're
really not super super dirty and I'm
just trying to preserve them and keep
them shining and keep them from cracking
over time so I'm just using a basic
conditioner to wipe all the seats down
and even though they're not super dirty
just by using a conditioner and wiping
down the panel's you'll actually notice
your microfiber will pick up some of
that dirt as well which does kind of
help with making an easy way to just
kind of do a one-step process on your
seats
[Music]
is just so much
[Music]
[Music]
now for any interior plastic panels
including the - Here I am just using the
chemical guys soak and shine to wipe
everything down like I mentioned earlier
it really gives it that nice luster and
it has that new car smell and it has a
UV protecting it to hopefully keep
everything from fading over time
[Music]
nobody else can take your place
I'll never want somebody
so for the windows grab two clean
microfiber towels and before you start
on the window roll the window down
halfway and get that top seam along the
edge on the inside and outside that way
when the customer rolls the window down
they're not going to have that dirty
edge of the very top that goes inside
the door jamb and because we've dressed
the doors already just take a clean
towel and spray your glass cleaner on
that do the inside and then move to the
outside of that door and work your way
around the vehicle doing all the windows
that way and then I like to follow up
with a second microfiber towel that is
specifically just for kind of cleaning
up wiping it down making sure there's no
streaking or add extra fluid that remain
on the surface
[Music]
also don't forget your side mirrors
don't forget your rear-view mirror
inside the car and also don't forget
about the sunroof and the rear inside of
your glass on the tailgate so if you
want to know what products I used in the
video please go ahead and check out in
the description box below I have
everything linked there for you
[Music]
now for the Floor Mats I'm just using an
all-purpose cleaner and a bristle brush
to go ahead and agitate and clean those
off drying it off and then topping it
with the Chemical Guys silken shine
[Music]
and here are the end results the car
turned out amazing I love the way that
the wax keeps the car shine and
especially on a white car I found this
to be one of the best waxes and topper
coats that you can use to make a white
car look wet that is really easy to do
on a darker color red or black paint but
on a white car that's really hard to do
to make it really shine like a darker
colored car and when you get it right
it's a really really cool feeling and
the interior turned out amazing as well
the topper coat I put on there really
makes even the carbon fiber panel shine
it makes all of the plastic trim look
brand-new it really makes the car look
like it just rolled off the factory
floor and it turned out great so if you
liked today's video make sure you're
subscribed down below give it a big
thumbs up and then in the comments I
want to see everybody's cars that they
drive I think it'd be really cool for
everyone to list them so that way we can
see what you guys are driving that watch
my videos and that will help me figure
out what cars you want me to detail next
so thank you guys so much for watching
and I'll see you in the next one bye
guys
DEEP CLEANING The Nastiest Car Ever! Complete Disaster Car Detailing Transformation!
Stauffer Garage:
[Music]
what's up guys welcome back to Stauffer Garage
today I am doing a disaster deep
clean transformation of the dirtiest car
I could find on Facebook marketplace
I picked this car up for a whopping six
hundred dollars it drove home but from
these shots you guys can tell that the
interior is definitely the reason why I
picked it up for $600 so I'm excited to
transform this car make it look like new
again show you guys all of the steps and
all the tools that I used to make it
happen and if you guys like these sort
of videos make sure you give this video
a big thumbs up and subscribe and turn
on notifications so you do not miss out
on any new deep cleans that I have
coming out in the near future with that
being said let's get started and the
first step we're going to do is we're
gonna pull everything out of the vehicle
all the trash all the crap definitely
wearing gloves
maybe doubling it up double bag in it
and cleaning everything out of it that I
can pull out of it without using a
vacuum first seeing the real stains seen
what's underneath some of this trash
getting a better idea and chucking all
this stuff in the trash can as fast as I
can
[Music]
now taking out the seats might seem
insane to do but in this case with this
type of vehicle and how trashed it is it
made complete sense to pull as much out
of the car as possible to get to all
those spots that would be super hard to
get to with an extractor so for all of
you guys that weren't sure if I was
telling the truth about this being the
worst detail I've ever done I'm hoping
these before shots and as I'm going
through this car you guys truly
understand the magnitude of the filth on
this vehicle I'm actually even surprised
myself once I took the seats out how
much stuff was underneath those the good
news is with it all out of the vehicle
it makes it easier to get all of the
different areas where like I pulled off
that chunk of moldy chicken nuggets like
I don't even know why people drove
around this car I'm definitely getting
my money's worth for 600 bucks and
definitely getting a challenge I might
try to pull off some more panels too
just to try to minimize how much dirts
left I mean it's just this is this is
intense so let's get everything out you
get the seats out in the front get the
center console out and then we'll start
the vacuuming
[Music]
so this is what I found once it took the
seats out which is exactly why I wanted
to do it in the first place and what I'm
going to go ahead and do is pick up all
of the bigger pieces that might get
stuck in the shop back because that's
the last thing that I want to have
happen since I'm gonna be using an
extractor to get out the stains and the
dirt within the carpet fibers itself the
main purpose of the vacuuming stage is
just to get the larger stuff out of the
carpet off the surface within a
reasonable amount of time so if you guys
saw our little friend that was crawling
out of that center console box at the
very beginning of this video I want you
guys to leave a hashtag below hashtag
roach motel you guys won't believe how
many dead roaches I found within the
video you might be able to pick them out
like almost like Where's Waldo and some
of these shots but it was straight-up
disgusting but I want to see that
hashtag in the comments below
[Music]
so this car in particular had dirt in
every possible location so that was the
main reason why I took off all the door
seals all the panels took out the whole
glovebox component because underneath it
was still some more trash and plus with
all of that liquid and crap that had
kind of solidified in those cupholders
and around emergency brake it made
complete sense in this case to kind of
disassemble the interior as much as
physically possible
[Music]
one tip I have for you guys that if
you're planning to do a large section of
carpet cleaning in your car or home or
wherever I recommend picking up one of
these spray bottles which you can get at
any hardware store that they would use
for like fertilizer or some sort of bug
spray that you would use outside your
house and makes life easier to take a
liquid carpet cleaner dilute it down
within that bottle but you're not using
that trigger pump spray bottle and
you're risk getting all tired and your
fingers hurting afterwards this just
makes it so much easier to get enough of
the fluid down it's that way when you
bust out your drill brush you have
enough fluid on the surface to agitate
the carpet and get the job done
[Music]
and this is the first detail that I've
been able to use my new Sandia extractor
which has been a lifesaver especially
when it came to this video I couldn't
have imagined doing this job with the
old equipment that I had been using
because of the magnitude of this actual
cleaning I couldn't have done it without
this tool so I highly recommend it after
this job I had no issues it did an
amazing job at extracting so if you guys
are interested in picking up any of the
tools or products that I use I
definitely have them listed in the
description box below for you guys
[Music]
if you guys could only imagine trying to
do this exact same job with the seats in
and that center console and just imagine
how much carpet I would have missed
getting to if those components were
still in here which is why I took him
out for this specific job
so here are the results after doing a
single pass with the extractor I am now
doing a second pass because these
carpets were so saturated with just pure
luck that a second pass was definitely
something that needed to be done
[Music]
the solution that I'm using is actually
from Chemical Guys it's a carpet
cleaning solution that gets diluted down
in this case I used about a ten to one
ratio which if you guys don't know what
that means it's just you're using ten
parts water to one part cleaning
solution and I mix that inside my spray
bottle or in this case inside of my
extractor as well
[Music]
one of the things that I wish that you
guys could honestly experience is the
smell that this car emits like it is
it's one of those smells that when you
breathe it in it lingers for like two to
three days like I can still smell it to
this moment it mean it it was just it
was horrible that's all I can say it was
probably the worst smell I've ever
experienced
[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
hi guys today is a new day I wasn't able
to get the whole detail done in one day
but it worked out well because I was
able to leave the car open and let all
those carpets dry out after doing those
two passes with the extractor today is
gonna be focused on getting these seats
completely clean these are the ones that
are gonna need all the work so using the
extractor using everything I can to get
these all clean but what I'm gonna do
first is all of these plastic panels
including the glovebox and center
console I'm just gonna take those
outside and hit them with a pressure
washer so for the seats and the carpet
in the back trunk I'm going to be using
essentially the same process what we
need to do first is obviously vacuum the
surface then we're going to apply our
cleaner and then we're going to use our
drill brush to agitate the surface to
get that dirt lifted up from the fibers
and then follow up with our extractor
[Music]
if you are planning on taking out seats
or any of the components that you can
work on outside of the vehicle I highly
recommend getting some sort of fold up
table or if you have a workbench using
that to work on instead of having to
bend over to put them on the ground
because one it's easier to keep a table
clean but also you're saving your back
and your body some of that stress
[Music]
[Music]
so depending on what kind of seats you
guys are cleaning if you want to use a
drill brush make sure you're using it on
a fabric type seat that is not super old
that is not delicate that doesn't have
any rips or tears because they can be
somewhat aggressive depending on the
type of surface that it is I would not
recommend using a drill brush on leather
but for majority of fabric seats that
are fairly new that don't have any rips
they do an amazing job at aggravating
the surface to get that dirt lifted for
your extractor
[Music]
I will say that I was actually blown
away with the results of just a single
pass on these seats how much dirt came
out of them how clean they got and then
once I was done with extracting all of
these different components I sat him
outside in the hot Sun to dry
[Music]
now for the back of the seats where
there was leather and then also on the
side bolsters where you have those
plastic panels in the recline knob I'm
just using my all-purpose cleaner that
is diluted 20 to 1 in a microfiber towel
to wipe down those surfaces also make
sure you don't forget about extracting
the headrest because that is a spot that
you definitely want to clean if you're
buying a used car
[Music]
[Music]
so now it is time to move to the panels
I'm actually starting with the front
passenger side and kind of working my
way around the vehicle to the driver
side what I'm using is my all-purpose
cleaner which is diluted to 20 to 1 and
I have a soft bristle brush that I'm
using to kind of aggravate the surface
to get in some of those cracks that you
kind of see on a panel
[Music]
once I have the surface clean I'm
following up with my Chemical Guys soak
and shine which is just a topper surface
that is a UV protectant it also gives it
that nice matte finish that I like
[Music]
[Music]
for the windows I'm using invisible
glass and I'm just spraying my
microfiber towel before wiping the
windows clean
[Music]
[Music]
like I mentioned earlier having some
sort of surface to work on especially in
this case where I had all of these
panels pulled out of the car I can now
work with them on this surface to get
them cleaned with my all-purpose cleaner
and then following up with my topper
coat
[Music]
now that all those panels are clean it
is time to move to the dashboard which
in this case I'm using all of the same
different chemicals that I've already
talked about before but I know that
everybody's mentioned about using the
Magic Eraser for mr. clean I have not
tried that yet I didn't have any on hand
but I was definitely going to try it on
some of these plastic panels to see how
it did so if you actually have you ever
used a magic eraser on your car let me
know in the comments below how it turned
out
[Music]
one tool that I like to use especially
when it comes to cleaning the dashboard
in any of the different buttons and
components are these black soft bristle
brushes that I'm showing in the video if
you guys want to check those out
definitely go to the link in the
description box below they are one tool
that I cannot recommend enough
especially when it comes to getting into
those different cracks and crevices
inside your vehicles
[Applause]
[Music]
[Music]
one tip when doing a detail is make sure
you're articulating the steering wheel
up and down you're moving the buttons
back and forth and you're making sure
you're getting every possible motion of
that actual component to get that dirt
and grime out of those areas
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
prising Lee the headliner in this
vehicle was actually pretty good
condition I didn't have any stains or
anything to get to I definitely do need
to do some sort of odor bomb in this car
itself to kind of get some smells out of
it but for right now the headliner was
fairly clean and so were the visors but
now that I've done all of the dashboard
components it is now time to start
reassembling all the plastic panels that
had pulled out previously
[Music]
once I have all the plastic panels in it
is now time to put the seats back into
the vehicle
[Music]
so here's the moment that you guys have
all been waiting for the before and
after shots of this transformation which
to be honest I almost want to sell it
back or try to sell it back to the
person I bought it from because I don't
think they're gonna have any idea that
this was the car that they sold me like
it is a completely different vehicle
after this transformation and I couldn't
be more impressed with the results
[Music]
[Music]
so thank you guys for watching today's
video and if you're not subscribed hit
the subscribe button below and let me
know in the comments below what was like
the most insane transformation portion
of this video was at the seats the
carpet all of the above let me know in
the comments below and thank you guys
for being awesome and I'll see you in
the next video bye guys
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