On récupère la MONTE CARLO de TOKYO DRIFT Fast&Furious 3 - Part 1
Movie Cars Central:
Goss' Garage: Buying Classic Cars - Spotting An Authentic Find
MotorWeek:
So you think it’s time to buy that collectible
car that you’ve been dreaming about all
these years.
Well, that’s a good thing, but unless you
do it right you might not wind up with what
you think you’re getting.
And here to give us some pointers we have
Tony Fleming from Fleming’s Ultimate Garage.
Tony welcome back to Goss’ garage.
Thanks so much for having me Pat.
Alright, now this is a gorgeous Corvette,
but what makes it a really top notch car as
opposed to just being a lump?
Well, a lump is well said.
Alright, so start with how does a car look?
When you walk up to a car is it a great looking
car?
And a lot of time you’ll say well that’s
a great looking car but you never know why
it’s a great looking car right?
To make those cars desirable things like where
we paint the wheel the way it’s supposed
to be and the wheel cover goes over top and
you have the thin little pin stripe of the
paint color… adding the wide white so they’re
period correct so they still look great.
This car in particular is the last year you
could get the painted cove on the side, and
I think it looks great, I personally love
those.
And then you throw in the high performance
engine you could get right?
This car right here has two 4-barrel carburetors
on it.
It’s the original engine that came in the
car and the car’s over 50 years old.
When you think about that that’s pretty
cool.
Alright, now another thing I’ve noticed
over the years that makes a big difference
is the authenticity of little things like
the decals and the stencils even down to hose
clamps
Very well said.
So the provenance of a car whether you have
some paperwork from back in the day or you
have like the Harrison radiator decal the
overflow tank decal even the horsepower call-out
decals on some other cars it makes it look
neat when you open the hood.
That’s the way the car would have come from
the factory.
This one even has the Wonderbar radio in it,
so it’s the original factory radio it’s
a 50-year-old radio and its pretty cool to
look at.
Yeah, alright so unless you do your homework,
you can wind up buying something that really
isn’t worth the dollars this is worth more
than one that doesn’t have all of these
things.
Well that’s a very important part you say
there.
So there’s a big difference between this
same car for let’s say 60 thousand versus
a car for 90 thousand.
Like what is the difference?
So some people just go out and buy a car because
they see it’s red and white and they think
it should bring a certain amount of money
you gotta do a little homework or buy it from
somebody who can show you the reasons why
you should get that and spend the extra and
keep that money.
ok an auction may not be the best answer.
Well the auction really is just putting the
buyer and the seller together with no warranty
whatsoever.
ok, Tony thank you.
And if you have a question or a comment drop
me a line right here at MotorWeek.
Why Everyone is Registering Their Car in Montana
Donut Media:
[Engine Revving]
- Seeing a Supercar in person is rare
but have you ever noticed
when you see one in the wild,
it always has either a
Montana or Vermont plate?
Why are these cars
registered in these states?
Are they tax havens?
Are they good driving states?
Are Vermont and Montana
the only states like this?
Well join us as we figure out the reason
Supercars are registered
in states the owner
probably doesn't live in
and how that benefits
them in the first place.
I love license plates.
Here in the U.S.,
every state has their own
so it makes it super easy
to spot out of state cars.
But what you might not have been aware of
is that some of these license
plates you were spotting,
were not on the up and up.
In fact, most of the time
when you see a Supercar
or RV with Montana plates,
it's actually a rich person
from a different state.
Who does think they're better than you.
You see, when you're
making a major purchase,
like a $3.3 million Bugatti Chiron Sport,
the sales tax can be quite a doozy.
For example, if you lived in L.A.,
you would have to pay about
$315,000 in taxes and fees.
Now what if I told you
that you could buy the same
$3.3 million Bugatti
and only pay a few thousand bucks in fees
as long as you bought it in Montana.
Is that something you'd be interested in?
Of course it is.
You could use that leftover $314,000
to buy more silk toilet paper
or whatever rich people spend money on.
If I was rich,
I'd buy flannel sheets.
The reason for this is because
Montana has no sales tax.
Oregon, Alaska, Delaware,
and New Hampshire
are also tax-free
but Montana is the best
because they are the only
state that doesn't require
a physical inspection of the car.
Montana also doesn't
require emissions testing
so you can roll coal without
fear of government retribution.
And all this means you can literally
buy a car in Beverly Hills
and tag it 1,274 miles away billings
without the car setting
tire outside of the 90210.
[Engine Revving]
This doesn't sound very legal,
does it?
But you'd be surprised.
While it is illegal to
falsify the owner's address,
there is nothing illegal about
opening a shell company in Montana,
purchasing a car or RV
through that shell company,
and operating it in another state.
In fact, there are a bunch
of companies in Montana
that will help you do just that.
Simply create an awesome fake
name like Nolan Syke's Cyclery
and come up with a kick ass slogan like
"we're psyched for syke's cikes"
and the service will take
care of the rest of the stuff
like mailing address and what have you.
But just a word of warning,
while this is technically legal,
insurance companies are
not fans of this method.
A traditional auto insurer
may refuse to pay claim
if they can prove that a car
resides in a different area
than that is listed on the auto policy.
Speaking of insurance,
sometimes people like to tag
their cars in different states
to save on premium.
For example, if you live in New York,
you'll be paying and average of $1789
but if you tag your car in
Vermont or New Hampshire,
you'll only be paying
about $1100 for insurance.
Smart.
Another reason some people
plate their cars in other states
has to with emission standards.
[Engine Revving]
Say you want to buy your
Uncle Ronnie's used C7ZR1.
Now, Uncle Ronnie is the type
of man who likes restaurants
that allow peanut shells on the floor
and the exhaust systems
that sound kick-ass.
That's led him to delete a few things
from his exhaust system
which may cause the car to fail
a California Emissions Test
so what do you do?
Simple.
Tag that biscuit in Vegas,
where the emissions standards are lower
and then drive it to California.
Disclaimer, I'm not a lawyer
so maybe don't do that.
I don't know.
And just so you know,
this isn't some California thing.
Someone in Pennsylvania can save money
and drive a less polar bear friendly car
if they tag it in Ohio.
Or if you live in New Mexico,
you can go to Texas.
Or if you live in Hawaii,
you actually, you're kind of
screwed if you live in Hawaii
but at least the scenery is nice.
[Upbeat Music]
So far we've been focusing
on out of state plates,
but what about out of
territory plates, hmm?
While it's definitely not
as common to see plates
from U.S. territories like
the U.S. Virgin Islands,
some of the coolest cars
come from U.S. territories.
That's because you can
import cars into territories
that you can't import into the U.S.
and here's the kicker,
it's omega easier to import a vehicle
from a U.S. territory
than another country.
Mind blowing, right?
Right now the most common
way to get a great market car
that doesn't meet U.S. standards
from crash tests, side
marker lights, headlights,
safety chimes blah, blah, blah
is to wait 25 years.
We've done, I feel like
10 videos on that subject.
You could also modify that
car to have all those things,
argue that it is similar to
an existing car in the U.S. market,
or apply for a "Show
and Display" Exemption,
but all those options can be surprisingly
more difficult than they sound.
So what if you want to own an illegal car
like a, I don't know,
Land Rover Defender 110 in Oklahoma?
You can either buy one
that is over 25 years old
and costs about 125 grand
or you can buy a relatively new one
for 60 grand in the UK
then spend another 15 grand in shipping
and importing fees
to get that biscuit unicorn tagged
in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
Not only do you save 50K,
you also get an upgraded vehicle.
Sounds like very specific example,
I'm not pointing fingers at anybody.
That's just an example.
No one has done this.
[Chiming]
At this juncture,
I just want to remind
everyone that we here at Donut
do not condone any illegal registering
or insuring of vehicles.
As a matter of fact,
it should be pointed out
that an attempt to skirt
taxes, insurance premiums
and emission tests,
can really come back to haunt you.
[Engine Revving]
Imagine going through all the trouble
of buying that Defender 110
and getting caught.
Not only would you be
facing some legal troubles,
there's also a good chance that Johnny Law
is going to crush that Land Rover
like it's a 94 Sunfire with terminal rust.
And that would be heartbreaking.
At the end of the day,
plating a car with out of state plates
or in extreme cases,
out of territory plates
may not be worth the risk or headache
but depending on the owner, the car,
and the state of residency
some delicious juices just
might be worth the squeeze.
[Beep]
- Oh, did you miss the
holiday shipping deadline?
Ugh, no problem.
Introducing Donut digital gift cards,
with numbers in the 'puter,
give it your lovey-dove
and hope you rock your donut by January.
[Chiming Music]
[Beep]
I'm going to say it right now,
if people paid their sales tax
on that $3.3 million Bugatti,
maybe our roads in L.A.
wouldn't be so (beep).
How about that?
The one car that I would do
that territory plate thing
is the Alpine 110,
the new one.
It's like a rear-engine French car.
Super sick.
Might have to do that actually.
Be nice, see you next time.
CHEVY ASTRO VAN - Everything You Need to Know | Up to Speed
Donut Media:
(care engine roaring)
(metal scraping)
- Do you have a passion for
the ultimate family mobile?
Something that can handle
a trip to Home Depot
for plywood, Costco for groceries in bulk,
a road trip across America with grandma
to see Mount Rushmore,
and trips to hockey practice
with the entire team?
Well, mama and papa do
I have a car for you.
A car that's not a car.
It's a van.
This is everything you need to know
to get up to speed on
the Chevrolet Astro Van.
(lighting striking)
(upbeat electric music).
Big thanks to this weeks sponsor Audible.
Listen up Amazon Prime member.
For a limited time, you
can start an Audible
membership and save 66 percent
on your first three months.
A total of 30 dollars off.
That's like gettin' three
You'll pay just four dollars and 95 cents
per month for the first three months.
After that, it's only 14.95 per month.
Act quick though because
the offer is only valid
'till July 31st.
I'm excited to get my
membership so I can listen
to The Boys In The Cave by Matt Gutman.
Don't know what it's about,
but I love caves.
Visit Audible.com/uptospeed or text 500500
to get started today.
That's Audible.com/uptospeed.
Support the companies that support Donut,
we couldn't make it without them.
Now, back to the show.
Before we start talking about vans,
we should first mention the Station Wagon.
The once upon a time stereotypical
American family vehicle.
The Station Wagon dangerously carried
Many-a-restless kid
across the American roads
seat belts optional.
But, in the late 1970s the sale of big
gas guzzling Station
Wagons was on the decline.
The do it all wagons
future was looking grim,
partly due to the gas prices,
but more partly due because
of the new category of cars.
So, in 1984 the Chrysler
van program birthed,
the Plymouth Voyager mini-van.
The first of it's kind, the Voyager was
hugely popular for it's ability
to tote all the kids around,
get better gas mileage
then a Station Wagon,
and, yes, be able to fit
in a garage safely away
from those mean suburban streets,
It was a great all around
package for the modern family,
and GM quickly realized that
hey needed their own version
of the the mini-van.
- Should we make our own miniature van?
- Uh Yeah!
We already have one in the works.
Don't you know about it?
- Uh, 'course I do.
What's it called?
- The Astro
- Astro!
Yep, I said it first.
I knew it, totally knew it.
There's a reason I'm the boss.
Keeping with the space theme that Plymouth
started with the Voyager,
in 1985 Chevy released their all new
not so mini mini-van the Chevy Astro,
A van so sick, it cam time-warp,
and drive on the rings of Saturn.
The boxy middle van and
it's twin GMC brother
the Safari were only 1.5 inches shorter,
and 2 and a half narrower than Chevy's
smallest full-size van.
And, while it was seven inches shorter,
and claimed to be able to fit in a garage,
Chevy quickly acknowledged
their bulked up box on wheels,
and used the middle van
status in their advertising.
- [Man] The new Chevy Astro.
Built to do more than a mini-van can.
- Not a mini-van, not a full-size van,
but a middle van.
The real world giant box mobile
had multiple seating configurations,
allowing you to carry you,
and seven of your so-called friends.
Let's be honest,
they just wanted to sit In those
comfy, cozy, fluffy, cloth bench seats.
Or, you could take out all the seats,
and use it as a cargo van.
Unlike it's mini-van competition,
the Astro was built on a truck chassis,
with a bolt-on sub frame.
The front suspension shared many
of the same components directly from
the Caprice Station Wagon,
while the rear had composite
leaf springs like the S-10.
Engine options on the first year Astro,
were either the 98 Mini Shetland Pony
Horsepower 2.3 liter four cylinder,
or the optional 165
midi-horsepower 4.3 liter V6.
(engine roaring)
And the placement of said engines?
How bout' right under the
front dash cup holders.
You could swap out your battery,
and check the oil in
the mini-hood up front.
But, any serious work
would have to be done
inside the van.
A big bump in between
the two front seats got
covered with a hatch,
and gave way to an access panel,
that once removed exposed
the engine on the Astro.
Mechanics loved it.
The coolest part,
is that you could get it with a manual.
That's right, the base transmission
that the Astro came with,
was a four speed manual which is sick.
And, you could get it with an
optional five speed until 1989.
After that they went full auto.
But, I'm grateful that
it was manual at all.
(chiming music)
By the end of the eighties, the demand for
mini-vans as family vehicles had largley
superseded full size
Station Wagons in the US.
Rest in peace Station Wagon.
It wouldn't be until 1989 that Chevy
would release a more comparable
front wheel drive van
to take on the Chrysler mini-van.
The Lumina APV.
But, that didn't stop GM from also selling
the Astro and the Safari.
People loved it for it's ability
to not only haul kids around,
but also haul stuff around.
The Astro could pull five thousand pounds.
No other mini-van was
pullin' that kind of weight.
It could also carry 1700
pounds in the cargo area.
That's a lot of fat little boys.
- All right kids, let's
go to hockey practice.
- Can we all stop at McDonald's?
- Yeah, I want some nuggets.
- Yeah, I wanna get a Big Mac.
- Yeah, we can get the McDonald's.
- Yay, chunky butts on three.
One, two, three,
- [All] Chunky butts!
- Chunky butts.
- Side note, Chevy marketed
Astro van to fat people.
- [Man] Tired of watching your weight?
If you had a GMC Safari,
you wouldn't have to.
- With a strong commercial game like that,
how could you not want an
Astro if you're a chunky butt?
Towards the final stretch
of the first gen Astro,
GM really started to
turn up the technology.
In 1990, the Astro came
with all wheel drive,
as well as four wheel anti-lock brakes.
Their competitors over at Ford,
with the Aerostar.
Again, another space theme van.
What is the deal?
They didn't have ABS, all right?
And, that's pretty important when you're
carrying your fat little family around.
And you got a space car,
you don't want regular doors,
you want dutch doors.
Two rear doors with flip
up windows on top of 'em.
And Dutch people love 'em.
Also because parents were
complaining about their
fat little kids making a mess,
Scotch Guard Fabric Protection also
became a standard feature with
Astro vans with cloth seats.
The second gen Astro came out in 1995,
and Chevy was deep in the,
let's sell this thing as a tough dude
all family vehicle game.
Load the back up with dirt bikes, sure!
Total horse trailer? Yeah!
The Astro was tough like a rock!
♪ Oh, like a rock. ♪
- But not much really
changed from the first gen
to the second gen Astros.
They got updated headlights to match the
rectangular ones on the Silverado.
There was also only one engine option.
The 4.3 liter Vortec V6.
And, there was only one body option.
The shorter version was ditched,
They did improve that engine hatch in the
center of the two front seats
to increase front leg room,
and help cut down on interior noise.
You know, since the
motor was inside the car?
They improved dash installation too.
You know, 'cause the
motor's inside the car.
(engine roaring)
(tires screeching)
The second gen also got passenger airbags
which by the way, speaking of safety,
the Astro was not safe.
It eventually improved
from a one gold star
rating in 1991, to three gold star rating,
for the driver only in 2000.
If you were a kid in the
eighties or nineties,
and your friends had an Astro,
they were the bell of the ball.
But, if they had a conversion van Astro,
they were the king of the ball.
Companies like Glaval,
Mark III, and Star Craft,
took the bone stock Astro,
and turned them into
lush rich kids basements
on wheels.
The summer road trip van made visiting
your grandparents not all that bad because
you could watch freakin'
movies and play Super Nintendo
all while sitting in the most comfortable
captains chairs on the planet.
Yeah, that's right.
It's a chair for a freakin' captain.
He's the leader of the ship.
If your eyes got too tired from playing
video games or watching
Mrs. Doubtfire on VHS,
because of course it has a VHS player,
You could just crawl on
over to the back bench seat,
fold it down and take a big old nap.
Safe? No.
Comfortable?
You betcha' chunky little butt it is.
- [All] Chunky butts
- Chunky butts
- My friend Vince's dad had an Astro van,
and we played Earthworm Gym for hours.
And we were in the driveway.
The Astro helped put conversion vans
on the map for the masses.
In 1994 there was
roughly 200,000 shipments
of van conversions to dealers.
People all over the world
loved their conversion Astros.
Even this guy, AKA Russian James.
(speaking in Russian)
(retro video game sounds)
The Astro space van would eventually
end in 2005 as well as Chevy mini-vans.
The venture to consolidate
for a single mini-van,
the Uplander.
But, that didn't last long.
Four years later, Chevy left
the mini-van market completely,
and while the majority
of Astro's have found
their way into the hands
of construction workers,
van life hipsters, or
sadly even junk yards,
it still remains as the
not so mini mini-van
that warmed our fuzzy little
nostalgic chunky butts.
(upbeat electronic music)
Project Chevelle: Phase 1 Complete
Speedway Motors:
Alright this is our wrap of what we're
gonna call version 1.0 of Project Chevelle.
From the first time we shot this car it
was 130 horsepower stock Chevelle and
we've tripled that basically now.
And you know it's kind of a hoot to
drive now. Yeah the 383 is great and I
think so far my favorite thing is the
Tremec transmission. It drives better
than any Muncie 4-speed muscle car ever
would.
It's got overdrive it's awesome. It's kind of
amazing that you can put an old car like
this together and even though a lot of
the parts are new I mean it's still an
old car and drive it what is 1200 miles. Well it was 700 to Louisville.
you know you can make it all the way there after having the whole thing apart and not have one hiccup the entire time.
So we did drive it 711 miles to the NSRA Street Rod Nationals and we had a bit
of a thrash leading up to it you know as
these things go there's never enough
time to do what you want to do so you
know a lot of this work was done at
midnight and you know fortunately it
all held together and the payoff of
course was driving it down the road you
know it's nothing better than crossing
the country in an old car. It gave us
no trouble at all you know we didn't add
any fluid or turn any wrenches and you
know had a blast. Driving wise
compared to the way it was what we
started with to what we've got now it's a
completely different car.
You know it still kinda looks the same
but it's sitting on a new suspension.
We actually ended up getting 17 and a half mile per gallon all the way to
Louisville just cruising along in
fifth gear idling along and listen of
those Flowmasters roar.
Wheels, tires I think it was a wise
choice definitely kept that early 70s
muscle car theme. You know the overall
package the sound of the exhaust hittin'
gears on the floor not on the column
this is a lot more fun. Right our goal
was to change the car without ruining
the car you know to make it better I
feel like we did that but it still feels
like we driving a 72 Chevelle. You know
you still have an AM radio and it you
know all those pieces are in the right
place just a little bit better now. The hardest
thing for me was to actually change some
of it because it was such a cool car
right at first but then right after we
change it and we go drive it and realize
the benefits of the new parts it's it's
a no-brainer. You want to put a
suspension like this on a car that's 45
years old you know you want to put a
modern overdrive transmission in it and
you know all the new stuff that we did
it just makes it ten times more fun to
drive. And you know we didn't cut any
giant holes in the car or blast a
rollcage into it or something you know
so it could it could always go back if it had to.
But I really don't know what you want to. Kind of the underlining spirit a lot of the changes I think that I
enjoyed is they were all things that
make it a better driver for daily use
you know. Some of these old cars are just
car cover on them. Twice a year at the car show they get them out and
dust them off and do antique car things
with them and I don't see ever even hardly
pulling this thing in the garage because
you're gonna use it every day and this
thing just super comfortable to drive
rides really well corners real well. I
wouldn't mind driving it every day if I
had one around. Alright well thanks
everybody for watching this has been a
lot of fun and you know the fun's not
over we've got more projects we want to
do on this car. You know it's kind of a
rolling testbed at this point so you
know there's plenty more to come so
thanks for tuning in. Keep your
suggestions rolling in you know we're
happy to hear what you guys think and
what you want to see us do here. So until
next time thanks for watching.
Cesar Lozano & His 1963 Chevrolet Impala SS - Lowrider Roll Models Ep. 7
MotorTrend Channel:
(inspirational music)
- If you set your mind
to doing something,
nothing's impossible.
Everything's possible.
You could have whatever you dream of,
and if you keep continuing dreaming big,
you will get there one day.
(hip hop music)
You got to have a lot of patience,
dedication, and passion to
build one of these cars.
My first car was a 1963 Impala,
which I had purchased in Bakersville.
It was a project car.
The '63 Impala was a
car that was unrestored.
We took that car, stripped it all down,
frame-off restoration.
We painted it Candy Blue
with a patterned top.
It was called 'Juiced 63',
which was featured in
a couple of magazines.
So what happened when it got featured,
I got contacted a couple months
after the car got
featured in the magazine,
and they had offered me $40,000.00 for it.
And I said you know what, why not.
'Cause it was something
that I couldn't refuse.
I said, you know what, it's your car.
So, it went to Japan.
(hip hop music)
I love the cars.
Since I was a kid, like I said,
I've loved to see low riders.
There's different ways
of building a low rider.
To me, it's an art.
That's the beauty of low-riding.
Right now I'm currently
working on 1963 Impala.
A hard top.
Ive had it for 17 years and now,
I have the opportunity to try
to put it all together now.
I want it all original GM factory parts.
You know, all NOS parts,
which is New Old Stock.
It's going to also have a
whole bunch of accessories,
as it's a hard top,
it also has a few more options
that the convertible didn't come with.
This car is going to be fully loaded.
As a matter of fact, that's
what I'm calling the car, is
'Fully Loaded'.
And we should be done with
this car within the next month,
so people will see it out there.
They will appreciate it
just as much as I am.
(hip hop music)
I own a 1963 Impala
Super Sport Convertible.
When I seen this car,
it was a car that I just had to have.
It was a car that was fully
loaded with factory options.
It's very rare to find a
very optioned car out there.
When I bought that car,
I said, Im going to restore this car.
but a lot of people said,
"No leave it alone, dont mess with it."
Which i agreed with them.
I don't want to just yet go
into that full restoration
on this car because
you can still smell the old of it
when you're driving it.
It drives so nice, and it's real.
I didn't put them on there.
This car came with them already.
It's an original Honduras
Maroon, with black interior.
With a 327 engine, two speed transmission,
four barrel carburetor, with
fully optioned accessories.
Factory seat,
a cruise control,
four-way flasher,
autronic eye,
tilt steering column,
power windows,
trunk release,
tachometer,
compass,
vanity mirrors,
under the dash ashtray,
AM/FM radio,
padded dash,
power steering,
power brakes,
locking gas cap.
It was something that you just
don't see out there no more.
(light music)
when I was a young kid,
there used to be a shop down
the street from our house,
right there off of
Pacific and Walnut called
The Gold Exchange.
There used to be a guy there
that used to work there,
his name is Richard Silva.
He went by 'Ritchie Rich'.
He was the number one hopper at the time.
He was a champion for a lot of years.
He would give us money to wash his cars,
to clean the windows,
and just keep all the
kids in the neighborhood,
try to keep us off the streets,
teach us right from wrong
and talk about his cars
and the rare stuff that he had on there.
That's how I got the
passion of low-riding.
I come from a family of 11.
We learned a lot from each other.
My mom, my dad worked all
their lives just to support us.
My mom sometimes had to
work 2 jobs day and night
just to put food on our table,
clothes on our backs.
They couldn't give us everything we wanted
just because it was so many of us.
My mom was in the sewing business,
and she used to work
for a factory, sewing.
And my dad was a janitor.
It was tough once you get older,
you kind of realize what your parents did
to try to provide for you.
Once I got older, if I
wanted name-brand clothes,
I had to go work for them.
And, I found every little
way of getting out there
and hustling to try to make money,
so when we did go back to school,
I had money to buy the clothes
that I wanted, you know?
I went from collecting cans,
to selling raspados at the park,
from buying stuff at the 99-cent store and
selling it for more money.
I'd buy baseball hats
that they had one time
at the 99-cent store,
and I bought a whole bunch
of them for a dollar each
and go sell them at the
park for five bucks.
I didn't go out there begging for money,
I went out there and worked for my money.
I was a collector.
I would collect baseball cards,
hot wheels, action figures,
stuff like that that I would
go to the store and buy
a couple of the ones I
thought that were rare,
and then I was holding on
to them 'cause I figure,
one day, I'mma have a business where
I can make money with this stuff.
And my dad told me,
if you graduate,
I will help you on
whatever you want to do.
That was his dream, just try
to keep me out of trouble.
I was working for a guy at
the Santa Fe Spring Swap Meet,
which was selling the same
things I used to be a collector,
you know, baseball cards, action figures,
just stuff like that on the weekends.
I learned a lot from him.
After I graduated from highschool,
I said, that's what I want to do.
I want to have my own business,
I want to sell sports
car, to action figures,
collectibles.
I started at the outdoor
swap meet doing that.
With a small booth, $500.00.
That's how (chuckles) my dad
helped me out, with $500.00.
He didn't have much, but we
made it grow as it went on
and on and on and on and on
and it was just a weekly thing.
Once that business grew, I
got into the Compton Indoor.
The business just got bigger,
and bigger as I was in there
with more of the collectibles,
and stuff like that.
Baseball cards...
I love toys.
Maybe because we didn't get to have them
when we were kids.
We went to the store,
and all we could do was look at them
because our parents couldn't
afford to buy them for us.
When I got to a point where
I was already in junior high
and I was already making
a little bit of money,
I would go out there
and buy it and save it,
and appreciate what I had
and praise it,
like, oh, man, this is rare, this is good.
Because I didn't get to
have that when I was a kid.
I'm the founder of Collector's
Choice Toys and Hobbies.
We're located here in the
city of Paramount, California.
I started Collector's Choice back in '93,
with a simple $500.00 investment,
to being one of the biggest distributors
in the West Coast for toys.
We're a distributor,
and we're an importer, exporter of toys.
We distribute toys from
Mattel,
Revell,
Funko,
Jada,
Maisto,
McFarlane.
We sell products to customers in Mexico,
Australia,
Spain,
Japan,
you name it, world-wide.
Once we open all these doors,
we were able to sell to a
lot of mom and pop shops
that were doing what I
did when I first started.
(inspirational music)
I love what I do,
and it keeps me motivated
'cause it's fun.
It's fun and I see that
I could do more with it.
Because my toy business was so successful,
I was able to start DGA Tees
with David Gonzales,
the creator of the Homies,
which does all of this art work
which caters to the Chicano industry.
We do from T-shirts, to
seat covers, from blankets,
you name it.
There was a logo for the Lowrider Man,
but there was nothing made for him.
So I contacted Lowrider and
asked if there was an
opportunity to make this toy.
And I've seen an opportunity
to be able to license
the figurine for this Lowrider Man.
I asked Dave if he could
design me a figurine and
he was more than happy to do
it because he's always had
a passion for the brand.
He was really excited to
design the figurine for us.
Someone that doesn't get low-riding,
they're missing out.
When I'm driving my cars,
it's never bothered me
what other people thought.
Low-riding is an art.
And when I see people out
there driving a low rider,
and it's nice and clean,
you got to give it to them because
I know that ain't come easy.
My advice to a lot of the
people that are out there
that are going through the hard struggle
that I went through,
nothing is impossible.
And I encourage everybody
that's out there to not give up.
Everything is possible in life,
and you can do whatever you
accomplish yourself to do.
Just keep moving forward.
Keep opening them doors,
and once you get there,
you're going to see
the light shine on you.
My name is Cesar Lozano,
I'm an entrepreneur,
and I'm a Lowrider Roll Model.
(instrumental music)
Should You Buy a Classic Car?
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
Today I'm going to help you answer the questions, should I buy a
classic car now lately a lot of my
customers are thinking about getting
classic cars because they say hey
they're simpler they're easier to fix
there's not a lot of computer crap on them
and of course that's true on this
Lincoln that's almost 50 years old the
old carburetor went bad I was able to go
and buy a brand new one the same day at
a local auto parts store there's still
parts available and there's only four
bolts holding it on and that sure beats
the heck out of working on a variable
valve timing fuel-injected modern engine
that can have thousands of dollars of
parts instead of just a simple
carburetor to make it run and here lies
something that you should understand if
you think about buying a classic car you
are readily available for like this
Lincoln it's a Ford there's many common
parts lot of them are still made and
there's plenty of them lying around you
don't want to buy a Ferrari or a
Lamborghini where it's going to bankrupt
you just buying the parts and let's face
it
modern cars we don't have any style they
all pretty much look the same with
plastic aerodynamic parts to get good
gas mileage but really look there's no
Chrome everything's just painted the
same color as the car though things like
chrome everywhere
Landau roofs the old cars really have a
style of their own and when it comes to
classic cars you don't have to be a
fanatic we're all the serial numbers
match and you spend a small fortune
making it exactly the same as it came
out of the factory you can do classic
cars economically if you want now sure
they're not going to be worth what a
pristine original showroom car is going
to be worth but they can be a lot of fun
and you don't have to throw out all that
much money if you're careful now if you
are looking at a classic car here's one
thing to beware of don't buy one that's
a Hulk of rust check for a lot of rust
before you even think of
buying that particular one now this
Lincoln may be 50 years old but look
when you crawl under and look around
it's got one solid frame there's no
rust on it at all now it's easy for me
here because this is a Texas car so it
doesn't have any rust so if you're
really looking for classic cars you
might take a trip to Texas or buy one
that's from Texas that comes with
pictures all around before you buy it to
make sure it doesn't have problems now
being from Texas this car still has a
factory a/c on it still does work but
don't expect to have working anything on
most classic cars unless you're willing
to spend a whole bunch of money just
doing the whole air-conditioning system
over or if you don't mind
buy one without AC and put an add-on kit
on now since classic cars are a lot
simpler you can do a lot of the work
yourself have fun get the enjoyment of
doing that and still save a whole bunch
of money when you really think about it
because when you consider the price of a
modern car versus an old classic that
isn't a completely redone one it costs
thirty forty thousand dollars for a
decent modern car and then you can find
classics all day long for a lot less
than that and speaking of money if you
buy brand new $40,000 car after five or
six years it's worth maybe one third of
what you paid for it but a classic car
it might even go up in value over time a
much better economic choice there so if
you're thinking about buying something
it has a little more class and certainly
is a lot more fun you might think about
buying a classic, and remember if you've got any car questions just visit the Scotty Kilmer Channel
and I'll answer them as soon as I'm done driving this car.
The Hidden Cost of Chinese eBay Parts | WheelHouse
Donut Media:
(gun shots)
- So, you want to turbo your car, huh?
But you're a little short on funds?
Relatable.
Is a cheap turbo worth your money?
(upbeat music)
(engine revs)
It's WheelHouse time baby.
Ooh wee.
Sure, we've all heard horror stories of
cheap turbos blowing up or
lasting a hundred miles.
But as of late, there have been
more and more success stories.
Stories of people having no issues at all.
Aside from figuring out what to buy
with all that extra cash they've saved.
(triumphant horn)
A big thick boy thank
you to NOS Energy Drink,
for partnering with Donut, and this show.
Not only do they help out
WheelHouse, but they specifically
asked to sponsor this week's
Hot Take segment as well.
I mean have you seen the
guys like BoostedBoiz.
They're making piles of power and
putting miles per hour on
some pretty cheap stuff.
(car engine revving)
Their running 9s.
- [Spectator] That's it, that's it.
(crowd cheering)
- Yes!
(loud engine)
Nine eight in 147, woo hoo!
(piano music)
- So let's review what
a turbo actually does.
They have a pretty tough job.
Their environment is
really, really, really hot.
Being bolted on to your exhaust and all.
When bearing tolerances are out of spec,
it can cause premature wear,
which can lead to oil pushing
past the seals and turning into
blue smoke coming out
the back of your car.
Anything from poor casting processes,
to the temperatures
molten metal is poured at,
to the specific blend of
metal being poured can cause
imperfections in important
parts of the compressor wheel.
Don't they check all that stuff?
Well, with the advent of the internet
came a wave of manufacturing
facilities all over the world.
Email and computer-aided design, CAD,
allowed companies to communicate
and share designs with ease.
That meant great things for
companies in places with
expensive labor, like America.
Boom!
Get things made in places
with cheap labor, right?
Wrong, kind of.
There are all sorts of growing pains,
with all the countless
fledgling factories.
Even factories that make good
turbos can have mistakes.
If there's no one inspecting
your turbo before it ships
to your door, then you're
at the mercy of Lady Luck.
And let me tell ya, she can
be kinda mean sometimes.
But luckily for these factories,
many of the companies
asking them to make parts,
provided them with knowledge and cash.
In a relatively short time, the ability
of these overseas manufacturing
plants skyrocketed.
But that doesn't mean that all
the factories themselves,
stepped their game up.
Is it a complete gamble?
In short, yes.
But we can try to swing
the results in our favor.
(bouncy music)
First, buying the cheapest of the
cheap is never a good idea.
The cheapest new turbo on eBay
hovers around a hundred bucks.
That's ridiculous.
Too cheap, don't buy it.
Second, read the reviews.
This goes for pretty much
everything you buy online,
but especially with car parts.
Look on the forums.
Even forums that aren't for your car.
There are gonna be a lot
of opinions and people
throwing their two cents
around like grenades.
There's one thing I
know about the internet,
it's that people like other
people knowing their opinions.
But if you can find people with
actual hands-on experience,
you'll find the useful information.
Third, look for information
about the company
you're going to be buying from.
Have they been around for very long?
Do they make any overall quality
or quality control claims?
And most importantly is there a guarantee
or a return policy if
your turbo does blow up?
Beyond checking reviews and
snooping on the company,
there isn't much you can do
to insure that the cheap turbo
you might buy will be a good one.
It's still gonna be a bit of a gamble
When you're talking a quarter of a
price of a brand name turbo.
So now it's time to look
inwards, to find out
if you really are about
that cheap turbo life.
You need to think about the what if.
What if it does fail?
Do you gamble on another or
do you shell out the money
for a name brand turbo after all?
Some folks' philosophy
is that since you can buy
four or five cheap turbos for
the price of one good one,
they'll just keep replacing
them, if and when they fail.
They probably will.
That brings up another question.
Who's doing the work?
If you're paying someone
to install your turbo,
the money you spend on
labor will quickly add up
and make your cheap turbo
a little less cheap.
Another big question is,
how hard is it gonna be?
Are we talking a top mount
super easy accessible turbo?
If so great.
But on some cars, replacing
a turbo or turbos can be a
total nightmare or at
least a really long dream
where you have a
perpetually bloody knuckles.
Check out HiLow and
you'll see what I mean.
- [Eddie] Good now?
- No, Eddie, not good.
What the (beep) you think dude?
(high energy music)
Did NOS Energy Drink partner
with Up to Speed first?
Yes.
Did they then move on to Bumper to Bumper?
Yes.
But did they save the
best Donut show for last?
Hmm, as someone who is
completely impartial,
someone who has no skin in the game,
someone who is 100% unbiased.
Yes.
Yes they did.
WheelHouse number one, baby.
(can popping)
(loud drinking)
(satisfied sigh)
NOS Energy Drink, baby, drink it.
(laughing)
(high energy music)
If you are a bit of a mad scientist,
there are a couple of other things
you can do to potentially improve
the odds of cheap turbo success.
There have been many accounts
of people dismantling
their brand new turbos
before installing them,
cleaning them out a little bit
and putting them back together.
Another thing some people have
done is rebuilding the turbo
with new higher quality
bearing, seals, and rings,
right out of the box.
This only works if you can find
rebuild parts for your cheap turbo.
But if you can definitely do that.
All of that stuff, replacing, cleaning,
and rebuilding the turbo takes time.
How much time do you have
to spend on this stuff?
And again, what will you
drive in the mean time?
If your project car isn't your daily,
then your probably in okay shape.
But if you're playing
doctor on your daily,
uh, you're kinda rolling the dice.
Another thing you can do is
to make sure you install it properly.
Give it the best possible chance.
I'm talking about making sure
your oil and coolant lines
are properly routed for the
best lubrication and cooling.
Even if it means a little extra work.
If your oil return line is all kinked up,
even the most expensive turbo
in the world is gonna fail.
(loud engine noises)
(piano music)
So here's the deal.
Whether or not a cheap ass
turbo is a viable option
for your car isn't really a simple answer.
A lot of it comes down to you.
Are you the kind of person
that loves to tinker?
Are you a bit of a risk taker?
(tires screech)
If you do your research, read
reviews, and accept all the
potential outcomes you
might even be able to make
your gamble a little less risky.
Otherwise, you should definitely save up
and get the good stuff.
Through my job, I've been
super fortunate to meet people
from the automotive aftermarket.
I'm talking people from
Vortex, Feal Suspension,
Magnussen, a ton of people,
and they're the ones that put
the blood, sweat, and tears into making
the aftermarket so great.
So what I think the right thing to do is,
instead of being impulsive
and buying the cheap part
from some nameless factory,
is to reward the people that
put the work in and support
small businesses really.
Because you might
unintentionally be taking,
literal labor away from someone
that you might know, you know.
It's just the right thing to do.
Planters NUTmobile is at the office.
- So we like to say that we
always drive the smoothest
peanut butter when we're on
the salty streets of America.
(laughs)
- Huh, you're serious?
- [Woman] Yes.
- Jeez.
- [Woman] So they got to roll up
and everybody was looking at them like,
"Oh my gosh, wow they're really--"
- This thing's nuts!
- Be nice, see you next time.
How to Replace Headlight 06-13 Chevy Impala
1A Auto Parts:
How to Aim and Align your Headlights Correctly
1A Auto Parts:
- Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto.
We've been selling auto
parts for over 30 years.
We're dedicated to delivering
quality auto parts,
expert customer service,
fast and free shipping,
all back by our 100%
satisfaction guarantee.
So visit us at 1AAuto.com,
you're trusted source
for quality auto parts.
- In this video we're gonna be showing you
a universal procedure for checking the aim
on your vehicle's headlights.
Now this is not a specific
or precise measurement
for inspection purposes
but more a way of making
sure that your new headlights
are functioning and at
the appropriate heights
to get the best performance out of 'em.
So if you've replaced your headlights,
the vehicle's been in a collision
or you plan on carrying a lot more weight
in the vehicle than you normally would
it may be necessary to adjust
the aim of your headlights.
I have a homemade
headlight aiming board here
but this process can easily be done
on any flat surface with 25 feet of room
from a vertical straight wall.
What we're going to do
since we can move our
headlight board fairly easily
is this center line needs to line up
with the center of the
front of our vehicle.
In this case it's going to be
the badge on the front of the car
and I wanna make sure that I'm straight
and parallel to the nose of the vehicle.
Some other good indications
would be the body lines,
license plate brackets or a hood ornament
centered in the hood.
So we'll now back our
vehicle up in a straight line
25 feet to the front of the headlights.
It's important that you make sure
all four of your tires are at
the appropriate air pressures,
your vehicle has about a
half a tank of gas in it
and it should also have any loads
that the vehicle regularly carries,
such as tools, equipment
or any type of supplies
that may weigh down any
part of the vehicle.
Check the marking on your headlight.
Ours is a DOT VOR which is
a visibly amiable headlight
as well as DOT VOL and DOT VO.
Also depending on your
vehicle and location
you may have an ECE or E CODE headlamp,
all of these are visually
aimable in similar ways
to the one we're going to show you.
If your vehicle is older
and does not have a US DOT marking on it
then it needs to be aimed with
a mechanical aiming device
that's pretty hard to come by
so your best bet is to do the best you can
visually aiming it with a board or a wall
like we'll show you here.
If you're not familiar,
turn your headlights on
and check which are
the high and low beams.
On our vehicle the
outside are the low beams
and our inside are
gonna be the high beams.
After you've checked all your other things
like your air pressure and
the weight in the vehicle
you'll want to jounce your suspension.
And what we mean by that
is grab a firm part,
either the bumper or the
radiator support here
and rhythmically bounce
it up and down a few times
and allowing the suspension to settle.
This will make sure that it's at
it's appropriate ride height
and isn't stuck in an odd position,
it'll just set everything level
into the proper ride height.
So we have a little dot in our
lens that you can see there
and I just used a dry erase marker there
to you show you where it is.
We're gonna put a little dot over that.
You don't need to do this
but I feel it makes it a lot easier.
Take a tape measure and
measure from the ground
to the center of that dot.
On our vehicle it's just about 32 inches.
The next thing you'll wanna locate
is your headlight adjusters.
Now these are gonna be in
different places on every vehicle
but ours has a toothed wheel
down here with a hex on it
so we can adjust that
with either a ratchet
or putting a little screwdriver in there
and clicking it clockwise
or counter-clockwise.
You may also have horizontal adjustments
but for our vehicle it's just these.
With our headlight on,
we've shut off the lights in our shop.
If you're doing this outside
you'll wanna do it at night.
This line here is our headlight cut off.
That's what we'll be using to adjust from,
above that is dark and below that
is where the brightest
portion of the headlight is.
Now what we're gonna wanna do,
and I'm just gonna stand in
front of it for this purpose,
we now know where are
right side cut off is
and from here it looks to be
just about 27, 26 inches which is low.
We wanna be generally,
two to four inches below
the center line of our headlight.
In our case 32 inches.
So we'd wanna be somewhere
in the 30 to 28 range.
Our left one is actually right about at 32
so it's pretty much dead level
and we want that to be
actually a little bit lower
than the right side.
So what I'm gonna go for here
is getting the left side to
about 28 inches, 29 inches.
And I'm gonna go right to the 30 mark,
on the right side so we'll
have our left cut off
a little lower to prevent
from blinding drivers
on the other side of the road.
And our right side will be a little higher
to still gives us a good view ahead of us.
Block the headlight that you aren't aiming
with a piece of cardboard,
you could use a chair
with a jacket over it
which is what we're going to do.
So we have our socket and
ratchet on the adjuster
and we're gonna see which
way moves the headlight.
Right now I'm turning
clockwise or to the right
and the beam is going up.
It's also very important
you don't wanna lean
too much of your weight
onto the vehicle while you're doing this
and you also don't wanna push
against the headlight in any way.
So clockwise is bringing it up.
We're going to rotate it counter-clockwise
until we get down to 28 inches.
And again we're using a
headlight aiming board
but you can easily do
this with a piece of tape.
I'm marking everything off.
So our cut off there is right at 28 inches
just where I wanted it.
I'll move our chair
in front of the driver's headlight.
And you can see there,
that they are pretty
much level at this point
which isn't a bad thing.
But just a couple of turns can get us
a little more visibility.
And that's why we're here.
So I'll rotate this one clockwise
up to 30 inches.
Till that cut offs right here.
So we're now two inches
below the center axis
of our headlight on the passenger side.
And four inches below
on the driver's side.
And that's what your
headlights should look like.
If adjusting fog lights as well
you'll usually find
something similar to this,
like our 2011 Camaro
where it's a Phillips head screw
or possibly a hex bolt or
just a little thumb screw
or something you move with
a flat blade screwdriver
or pry tool.
Really it's going to be very similar
to the style of adjuster and procedure
of adjusting a headlight on any vehicle.
So now we're gonna show you a method
you can use to aim your headlights
assuming you don't have
a headlight aiming board
or access to one and
can't justify making one
just for aiming your headlights one time.
So we already know the center line
of our headlights are at 32 inches.
I have my vehicle pulled up to the wall.
So we wanna mark where the
center of our vehicle is
just as a reference.
In this case I'll be using
the badge on the front of the car.
So mine's a little awkward
because I have this beam here.
You'll be using a flat board.
There's my center mark.
Now I'm gonna go over in
front of the axis dots
in my headlights.
And I'm gonna put it just about straight
and level with 'em.
And this doesn't have
to go all the way down
or all the way up,
just keep it right about in
line with that headlight.
And I'm going straight
to this axis as well.
We'll now back our vehicle up 25 feet
to the front of the
headlights from our wall
or in our case the back of our board.
So I know the heights of my
headlight axis is 32 inches.
So I'm gonna make a mark on my tape
32 inches up from the ground.
Now I already know that I'm gonna want
to adjust my headlight
four inches below this line
on the driver's side.
We'll then make our 32 mark
on the passenger's side.
And on this side,
I know I wanna be two
inches below my axis.
Just to make this a little
easier to see at distance
I'm going to another piece of tape,
I'm gonna put my bottom edge
flat with my 30 mark here.
So my cut off is gonna sit right here
in putting the tape above that line
makes it's easier for
me to see a difference,
if there's any lighting shining up there.
And we'll do the same
thing with my 28 mark
on the driver's side.
Again this isn't super precise
but we're just doing
this to make the vehicle
safe to drive.
Your local inspection station
will have to do a precise measurement
if your state does a
headlight aim inspection.
Now we know roughly
where our headlights are.
You can sort of see the two cut offs here.
Let's make things easier,
I have a jacket on the back of a chair
that I'll be using to
block each headlight.
My driver's side is a good ways higher
than it should be.
And the passenger's side
is quite a bit too low.
So what we're gonna do now
is use the appropriate tool
to adjust the headlight.
And it's important that
you don't put your weight
onto the vehicle while you do this.
I'm gonna start clockwise
which brings my headlight up,
that's good, that's the way we gonna go.
Counter-clockwise would bring it down.
And I'm gonna bring that cut off line
right to the bottom of my tape
so it's light and the brightest part
is just below the tape.
But the tape line is still dark.
Slide the chair over
to the passenger's side
and now I know counter-clockwise
should bring my driver's
side headlight down.
So I'll bring that down, same thing,
until my cut off line,
you can see the tape getting darker there,
right there my brightest point
is at the bottom of the tape.
You can see now that our passenger's side
is about two inches higher
than the driver's side
which is exactly what we want.
So our driver's side won't blind
drivers coming the other way.
And our right side will
stay nice and far out
so we can keep an eye
on the side of the road
for animals coming out of the woods
or pedestrians on a sidewalk.
So we performed this
with a 2009 Nissan Rogue
but the basics of this procedure
are going to be the same on any vehicle.
Your only major
differences are going to be
where that center axis
of your headlight is,
your specific state's
inspection requirements
for headlight height
and the exact location and tool
you'll need for your adjusters.
But what we've done here
is gotten a nice new
set of headlights aimed
so we can drive safely
and still get the best
performance out of our product.
- [Mike] Thanks for watching.
Visit us at 1AAuto.com
for quality auto parts,
fast and free shipping
and the best customer
service in the industry.
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