How to Replace License Plate Light Bulb 07-13 Chevy Silverado
1A Auto Parts:
Why Everyone is Registering Their Car in Montana
Donut Media:
[Engine Revving]
- Seeing a Supercar in person is rare
but have you ever noticed
when you see one in the wild,
it always has either a
Montana or Vermont plate?
Why are these cars
registered in these states?
Are they tax havens?
Are they good driving states?
Are Vermont and Montana
the only states like this?
Well join us as we figure out the reason
Supercars are registered
in states the owner
probably doesn't live in
and how that benefits
them in the first place.
I love license plates.
Here in the U.S.,
every state has their own
so it makes it super easy
to spot out of state cars.
But what you might not have been aware of
is that some of these license
plates you were spotting,
were not on the up and up.
In fact, most of the time
when you see a Supercar
or RV with Montana plates,
it's actually a rich person
from a different state.
Who does think they're better than you.
You see, when you're
making a major purchase,
like a $3.3 million Bugatti Chiron Sport,
the sales tax can be quite a doozy.
For example, if you lived in L.A.,
you would have to pay about
$315,000 in taxes and fees.
Now what if I told you
that you could buy the same
$3.3 million Bugatti
and only pay a few thousand bucks in fees
as long as you bought it in Montana.
Is that something you'd be interested in?
Of course it is.
You could use that leftover $314,000
to buy more silk toilet paper
or whatever rich people spend money on.
If I was rich,
I'd buy flannel sheets.
The reason for this is because
Montana has no sales tax.
Oregon, Alaska, Delaware,
and New Hampshire
are also tax-free
but Montana is the best
because they are the only
state that doesn't require
a physical inspection of the car.
Montana also doesn't
require emissions testing
so you can roll coal without
fear of government retribution.
And all this means you can literally
buy a car in Beverly Hills
and tag it 1,274 miles away billings
without the car setting
tire outside of the 90210.
[Engine Revving]
This doesn't sound very legal,
does it?
But you'd be surprised.
While it is illegal to
falsify the owner's address,
there is nothing illegal about
opening a shell company in Montana,
purchasing a car or RV
through that shell company,
and operating it in another state.
In fact, there are a bunch
of companies in Montana
that will help you do just that.
Simply create an awesome fake
name like Nolan Syke's Cyclery
and come up with a kick ass slogan like
"we're psyched for syke's cikes"
and the service will take
care of the rest of the stuff
like mailing address and what have you.
But just a word of warning,
while this is technically legal,
insurance companies are
not fans of this method.
A traditional auto insurer
may refuse to pay claim
if they can prove that a car
resides in a different area
than that is listed on the auto policy.
Speaking of insurance,
sometimes people like to tag
their cars in different states
to save on premium.
For example, if you live in New York,
you'll be paying and average of $1789
but if you tag your car in
Vermont or New Hampshire,
you'll only be paying
about $1100 for insurance.
Smart.
Another reason some people
plate their cars in other states
has to with emission standards.
[Engine Revving]
Say you want to buy your
Uncle Ronnie's used C7ZR1.
Now, Uncle Ronnie is the type
of man who likes restaurants
that allow peanut shells on the floor
and the exhaust systems
that sound kick-ass.
That's led him to delete a few things
from his exhaust system
which may cause the car to fail
a California Emissions Test
so what do you do?
Simple.
Tag that biscuit in Vegas,
where the emissions standards are lower
and then drive it to California.
Disclaimer, I'm not a lawyer
so maybe don't do that.
I don't know.
And just so you know,
this isn't some California thing.
Someone in Pennsylvania can save money
and drive a less polar bear friendly car
if they tag it in Ohio.
Or if you live in New Mexico,
you can go to Texas.
Or if you live in Hawaii,
you actually, you're kind of
screwed if you live in Hawaii
but at least the scenery is nice.
[Upbeat Music]
So far we've been focusing
on out of state plates,
but what about out of
territory plates, hmm?
While it's definitely not
as common to see plates
from U.S. territories like
the U.S. Virgin Islands,
some of the coolest cars
come from U.S. territories.
That's because you can
import cars into territories
that you can't import into the U.S.
and here's the kicker,
it's omega easier to import a vehicle
from a U.S. territory
than another country.
Mind blowing, right?
Right now the most common
way to get a great market car
that doesn't meet U.S. standards
from crash tests, side
marker lights, headlights,
safety chimes blah, blah, blah
is to wait 25 years.
We've done, I feel like
10 videos on that subject.
You could also modify that
car to have all those things,
argue that it is similar to
an existing car in the U.S. market,
or apply for a "Show
and Display" Exemption,
but all those options can be surprisingly
more difficult than they sound.
So what if you want to own an illegal car
like a, I don't know,
Land Rover Defender 110 in Oklahoma?
You can either buy one
that is over 25 years old
and costs about 125 grand
or you can buy a relatively new one
for 60 grand in the UK
then spend another 15 grand in shipping
and importing fees
to get that biscuit unicorn tagged
in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
Not only do you save 50K,
you also get an upgraded vehicle.
Sounds like very specific example,
I'm not pointing fingers at anybody.
That's just an example.
No one has done this.
[Chiming]
At this juncture,
I just want to remind
everyone that we here at Donut
do not condone any illegal registering
or insuring of vehicles.
As a matter of fact,
it should be pointed out
that an attempt to skirt
taxes, insurance premiums
and emission tests,
can really come back to haunt you.
[Engine Revving]
Imagine going through all the trouble
of buying that Defender 110
and getting caught.
Not only would you be
facing some legal troubles,
there's also a good chance that Johnny Law
is going to crush that Land Rover
like it's a 94 Sunfire with terminal rust.
And that would be heartbreaking.
At the end of the day,
plating a car with out of state plates
or in extreme cases,
out of territory plates
may not be worth the risk or headache
but depending on the owner, the car,
and the state of residency
some delicious juices just
might be worth the squeeze.
[Beep]
- Oh, did you miss the
holiday shipping deadline?
Ugh, no problem.
Introducing Donut digital gift cards,
with numbers in the 'puter,
give it your lovey-dove
and hope you rock your donut by January.
[Chiming Music]
[Beep]
I'm going to say it right now,
if people paid their sales tax
on that $3.3 million Bugatti,
maybe our roads in L.A.
wouldn't be so (beep).
How about that?
The one car that I would do
that territory plate thing
is the Alpine 110,
the new one.
It's like a rear-engine French car.
Super sick.
Might have to do that actually.
Be nice, see you next time.
LED Lights Install | 2012 Chevy Cruze LT (How To)
The Inja:
What's going on everybody welcome back to the
channel so today I got sent some LED
lights for my car this is 2012 Chevy
Cruze and I have been wanting to convert
this thing to led if you know me at all
I converted my motorcycle to all LED and
now this guy's next so here are the
light bulbs they were sent to me by JDM
they are an LED bulb manufacturer and
that's pretty much what they do so I was
excited when they reached out to me and
wanted me to install some LED lights
these are some turn signal LED lights
and I have also some some brake lights
as well so that's going to be pretty
sweet we're gonna install those today I
have been wanting to do this a long time as I said
my motorcycle like I love LED lighting
and this car is new enough to it's like
it should have LED lighting but it
wasn't sold with it so today I'm gonna
convert it all to LED the headlights I
already did and the fog lights I already did
as well as well as the interior cabin
LED lighting so let's get to it I don't
think this should take too long but
we'll see how it goes
oh my gosh that took a long time those
clips are tiny too
before doing this I did verify that
there's enough room in this bucket here
to actually have a resistor so that's
what I'm doing here I'm running out of
daylight so I'm doing this pretty quickly
I freaking love these let's see how the brake lights brake light works are they
working? I can't tell I can see them
they look so good alright so there you
have it my car is completely LED now
this is such a happy day for me like a
hundred percent LED and I cannot be
happier so again I use the JDM bulbs for
this
they worked absolutely brilliantly I
mean they fit well they look like they
work perfectly the lights are in the
description below if you wanna check
that out and I couldn't be happier
but guys my car is all LED now this is
so cool so anyway guys I'll see you the
next video thanks for watching just look
at that that looks so good
I just want to say thank you one more
time to JDM seriously a great company to
work with
I could not be happier with the LED
lighting so all right guys I'll see you
next video
2007-2018 Silverado 1500 Barricade Extreme HD Rear Bumper w/ LED Flood Lights Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
Hey, guys, it's Joe from AmericanTrucks.
And today, we're gonna be talking about the
Barricade Extreme HD rear bumper with LED
flood lights, fitting all '07 to '18 Silverado
1500s.
Now, this is gonna be a great option for you
if you're looking for a cost-effective rear
bumper that's off-road capable and includes
some extras such as these awesome LED flood
lights.
So, what do we have going on here with the
Extreme HD?
What is this thing made out of?
What features is it gonna give you?
And basically, how much is this gonna be better
than the factory rear bumper?
Well, we're gonna start at what this thing
is made out of, and that is 3-millimeter thick
heavy duty steel plating, and in terms of
durability, that is going to be a huge upgrade
over that factory rear bumper, and it's gonna
be able to take the abuse that an off-road-capable
rear bumper should be able to take.
It's also finished in that awesome black powder
coating, which is not just there to add to
the looks.
Albeit, if you were going for that blackout
look, this is gonna be a perfect match for
you, it's also there to serve as a layer of
protection, over that steel, from the elements.
Now, one of the biggest features about the
Extreme HD are the included lights, these
are two 5-watt 3-inch Cree LED flood lights,
they put out a nice, modern bright white color
temperature, around 6000K, that's gonna be
a bright white leaning very, very slightly
toward the blue side.
They have a polycarbonate lens up front and
an aluminum housing out the back, basically
that comes together to make these IP67 waterproof-rated,
meaning they can withstand up to a meter of
water for 30 minutes, and that is more abuse
than they should ever see on the rear bumper
of your Silverado.
Now, the best part about these guys right
here, they're completely plug and play, you
get a wiring harness in the kit, hooks up
right to the battery, there's a switch included,
as well as a relay and a fuse, there's some
IP67-rated connectors to plug these into,
and you're pretty much off to the races.
Just to run through the list here, these steps
on either side, that's a factory feature,
the Barricade integrates those very, very
nicely, you get a little bit of tread on there
as well, so you get to keep that.
If you plan on towing, this bumper is also
pitch-capable, so no matter what you have,
that will fit on there.
As far as the trailer plug goes, you also
get to keep that.
There are two different brackets included
in the kit, one for '07 to '13 and one for
'14 to '18.
You also get to keep your proximity sensors,
you can see these four pre-drilled holes across
the length of the rear bumper, you can transfer
those over and keep that feature as well.
There are pre-drilled holes for a rear plate
right here, and there's another one right
there, and this kit even includes a brand
new plate light to make sure this is legal
in all 50 states.
Now, I do have two rather small gripes about
this rear bumper, these LED cube lights, they're
completely plug and play, no problem with
those guys, but it kind of defeats the purpose
of this plate light right here, this is gonna
have to be hard-wired, and again, you're gonna
need to do that to make this street legal.
Also, right above that, you can see there
is no lock for the spare tire, so if that
is a worry to you, it's probably a good idea
to stay away from this one.
Now, pricing for this kit, that's the bumper,
all the hardware you need to mount it up,
the lights, the plug and play wiring harness,
both trailer plugs, all that stuff, we're
looking at about 750 bucks.
And for the small gripes I do have with this
rear bumper, I have to say, that is a good
price to pay, you really do get your money's
worth if this is the sort of bumper that you're
looking for.
Now, if you do like a look of this rear bumper,
Barricade even offers you a matching front
bumper to tie the whole truck together, and
in fact, there's another version of this available
without LED lights, which will save you around
75 bucks.
For the install here, I'm gonna give it a
solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty
meter.
Couple reasons for that, this bumper is heavy
to begin with, so you probably wanna have
a buddy on hand as well as a case of beer
so he can help you out with this thing.
That plate light is gonna have to be hard-wired,
so that's another reason for the two out of
three.
And another concern here is, in order to get
the factory bumper off, you are gonna have
to unbolt a couple bolts that hold the bed
to the frame of the truck, you don't have
to disconnect the bed completely, but a couple
this up an inch and then slide the rear bumper
out, again, we're gonna show you how that's
done in just a second.
Now, with all that said, I think you can get
this done in between two to four hours if
you come with the right tools.
So, without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you'll need, and how it's done.
Tools required for this install are going
to include an impact, U-joint, extension,
socket set ranging from 22-mill all the way
down to 10-mill, wrench set from 10-mill all
the way up to 21-mill, these Allen keys, which
do come in the kit, this is a 4-millimeter,
this is a 5-millimeter, some electrical stuff
like zip ties, spade connectors, as well as
a wire stripper, and I also used some Channellocks
just to crimp down the spade connector.
So, before we do anything on this truck, one
thing I would highly recommend doing here,
drop the spare tire out of the way, this is
gonna give you a lot more room to work underneath
of your Silverado here, and that's definitely
a must do before you touch any hardware on
your truck.
Now, another thing we're gonna have to do
before we touch any hardware is, we're gonna
have to crawl underneath and disconnect some
of our electronics so this bumper can come
off without pulling on any of the electrics.
First thing we're gonna disconnect, this is
basically a master plug, this is gonna go
to both of the license plate lights.
So, it's easier to disconnect here than it
is to disconnect at the license plate lights,
and what we're gonna do is pull down on that
red tab there, and then you can push this
in, and that should release the two, and you
can separate.
Next up is gonna be the trailer plug.
We're just gonna pull on this gray tab, similar
to the other one, and then we can press in,
and that'll disconnect that.
Next up here, like I said earlier, we're gonna
have to disconnect the bed in order to get
our bumper off.
And in this shot, you can see it clearly,
it's this lip right here is basically going
to hit this piece of metal that goes all the
way across, and in order to get it past that,
we're gonna have to unbolt the bed and basically
lift up on this thing so that is going to
clear.
And what we're gonna do here, take our 18-millimeter
socket and an extension, we're just gonna
come up through the frame and loosen up these
bolts.
We're gonna hit this one, and then this one
over here as well, then do the same thing
on the other side.
So, with the bed effectively disconnected
at the back two bolts only, we're gonna come
over to the side of our frame rail, this is
all the way at the rear, we're gonna trade
our extension for a U-joint.
These two nuts right here are 18 millimeters,
we're gonna remove those, over here is a 15,
we're gonna get that out of the way as well.
With those nuts removed, you can pull out
this bolt plate, then swap over to the 15
for that last bolt.
Now we're gonna come over to the other side
and do the same thing.
Next up, we can focus on this 21-millimeter
hardware here, we're gonna loosen that up
on both sides, and then we should be able
to crank up on the bed, and then pull our
bumper straight off.
Now, for this bolt over here, you will need
a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head
still, as well as a 21-millimeter socket for
the nut.
That is a little bit stuck right now, so what
we're gonna do is we're just gonna take the
bolt out on this side.
You can see our bumper is loose, however,
it is pushing on that thread.
What I'm gonna do is, pull this back, push
up on that bolt, and you should be able to
remove that as well.
Now, the bumper isn't gonna go anywhere, again,
it's gonna get caught on that lip I showed
you earlier.
Until we push the bed up, we're gonna have
to wait to take this off.
So, we're gonna hit the other side, lift the
bed up, clear that lip, and then remove the
bumper.
So, to lift the bed up, you can see I'm gonna
be using a pole jack here.
Now, if you don't have one of these, you're
in a pinch, the way that I've done this before
is you just lay on your back underneath the
truck, and you can basically leg press the
bed up.
That will give you enough clearance you need
to get this bumper out, because the way this
sits right now is, if you pull on this thing,
you're just gonna get stuck right there on
both sides.
So, what I'm gonna do is just apply very light
pressure on the jack, I put another one up
front so we don't tip this thing off the lift.
You wanna make sure if your truck is jacked
up that it's nice and secure.
If you are gonna use a jack like this one,
if you're going the leg press route, you should
be just fine since the truck is on the ground.
But the bed actually isn't that heavy, so
what we're gonna do, jack it up here just
enough, less than an inch we're probably gonna
need to get this bumper off, and then we can
pull the thing off.
So, now we have our factory bumper uninstalled,
we got a little bit of prep work to do on
our new Barricade bumper before we drop this
on our truck in its place.
Moving down the line here, over here we have
some trailer plugs, this one is specifically
for the older generation of trucks.
This guy is gonna be for the newer generation
of trucks, everything '14 and newer, you use
this one right here.
We're gonna skip those because, frankly, this
truck does not have a hitch on it, so there's
no point in us doing that anyways.
Secondly, we have these guys right here, these
are for the proximity sensors.
If you do have those, you transfer them over
from your factory bumper, if not, you're going
to install these plugs.
We don't have that option on our Silverado
either, so we're going to stick with those,
after that, we'll move on to the LED light
cubes, and then we can go back to the truck.
We're gonna install this guy here, this is
gonna be the guide for our spare tire tube.
So, let's get started here.
Again, we're gonna start with these plugs,
and these are just going to install in the
pre-drilled holes along the front end of the
rear bumper.
Now, if you wanna lock these in, the kit does
include some bolts for you that you can put
in these tabs right here, they're optional
for the plugs, but if you are transferring
over sensors, I would recommend installing
those.
Before we drop our fog lights in, we are gonna
have to get these mounting brackets installed.
Now, that is pretty easy, if I hold it up
like this, you can see one side has a notch
cut out of it, you want that to face toward
the front of the light.
So, we're just gonna grab that and orient
it properly, and slide it in between the fins.
Now, what I'm gonna do is, I'm gonna bring
that straight back, and the idea there is
it's gonna provide a little bit of a slide,
you can drop a nut in.
And in theory, that fin is cut out to hold
that nut still.
So, with that nut being held still, we could
come in from the side with the bolt and thread
the two together.
Now, once you have the thread started, you
can use the Allen key included in the kit
to snug that up.
We're gonna do that for the other side of
the mounting bracket, and then we're gonna
do the same exact thing on the other light
as well.
So, with the hardware in place, we can put
our mounting bracket where it needs to be,
and that can go off to the side, for now,
we're gonna do the same thing for this light
as well.
And again, you just wanna make sure that notch
is toward the front of the light, that's gonna
give you the range of motion you need.
Then we can drop the nut down the fin, and
get the hardware started through the side
of the light, and same thing goes for the
other side too.
So, now we can go back to the bumper and install
this thing.
And how we're gonna do that is, we're gonna
take this bolt that comes in the kit, and
that's just gonna push up through our bracket.
Now, this bracket does have slots in it, and
that's basically gonna hold the bolt head
still so we don't have to worry about getting
a wrench in there.
Then we come in from the front, and what we're
gonna do is basically feed in our plug and
play connector, then we can line up that bolt
with one of these three slots here.
You basically have three choices where you
wanna put this thing, but once you have that
sorted out, you can come in here with the
lock washer and 13-millimeter nut and lock
it in place.
We're gonna install the other side here by
doing the same exact thing.
So, our new Barricade bumper is completely
built up here, and before we start to work
on our truck, I figured now would be the perfect
time to set it down on the floor next to our
old factory bumper and point out some of the
key differences between these two, and basically,
what is gonna make this Barricade bumper so
much better than the factory one.
Now, the first, and frankly, the biggest difference
between these two, it's also the most obvious,
it's gonna come in the looks department, right?
Obviously, we're ditching that factory chrome
and plastic styling in exchange for some awesome,
aggressive, more modern-looking black powder
coated steel.
Now, that black powder coat looks awesome,
it's gonna be a great match, again, for any
blackout look, but again, it's also gonna
provide a little bit of protection over top
of that 3-millimeter thick steel, that's gonna
be an upgrade in terms of durability for the
rear of our truck as well.
This metal, this chrome, it's not really that
thick, it's not going to be able to take the
abuse like some heavy duty steel plate would,
so that's an upgrade in terms of durability,
for sure.
In terms of features, this one is gonna be
a pretty obvious one as well.
We're adding some LED flood lights back here,
that's gonna provide a nice little bit of
utility.
If you're doing any work behind your truck,
let's say, on the trail, or at the worksite,
that's gonna be a great feature, definitely
something you wanna have.
That's all well and good, but what I think
sets this Barricade bumper over the top is
just how many features you get to keep from
that factory rear bumper.
Just to run through the list here, if you
do have a hitch, that'll transfer over just
fine, as well as the trailer plug, again,
I touched on, you get both brackets depending
on what generation Silverado you have, that
will work out just fine.
If your truck is optioned with proximity sensors,
those will transfer over as well, you get
to keep those steps on each side, they're
gonna allow you easy access to the bed just
like the factory rear bumper.
And on top of that, this has some pre-drilled
holes for a plate and a brand new plate light.
So, at this point our bumper is ready to go.
Basically, what we're gonna do now is head
back to the truck, we got a little bit of
prep work to do over there, as well as this
spare tire access tube, we're gonna put that
in place so we can install this later.
So, let's head back to the truck and get that
done so we can get this thing mated up.
As far as this guy goes, we're just gonna
slide that on like so, we're gonna leave that
sit there until later just because it's easier
to put that onto the bumper once the bumper
is installed to the truck.
Now, that brings us to the more important
portion here, that's gonna be our mounting
bracket, you wanna make sure you grab the
right one.
You can see this one is marked with a "P"
for passenger side, and that is basically
gonna sit in the frame rail, just like so.
So, in order to attach this with the first
bolt, which is gonna be the smallest, you
wanna come all the way up to this top position,
that's gonna take the 16-millimeter bolt head.
Then on the other side here, we're going to
install our flat washer, as well as a 17-millimeter
nut.
For the second bolt here, basically, what
we're gonna do is come to this position right
here, this is gonna be the medium-sized bolt,
that is going to be an 18-millimeter bolt
head, and it's going to install on the other
side with a 19-millimeter nut.
For the third bolt, we're gonna come to this
lowest position here, this is gonna be the
biggest of the three, that's gonna be a 21-millimeter
bolt head, and on this side, a 22-millimeter
nut.
We're gonna tighten all that down, and then
we're gonna do the same thing for the other
side too.
Now, before we mount this up, again, all the
hardware on here is slotted, so if you need
adjustment on those brackets, you could loosen
them up later on, make any adjustment, and
then tighten them back down.
Now, with this vaguely lined up, all you're
gonna do is hold the bumper up to those brackets,
you get the bolt started through, and then
just finger-tight, then we're gonna crawl
underneath and install the rest of our hardware
and tighten it all down.
Underneath of our truck, you can see the two
bolts that I just installed, basically, align
your bumper, then you can tighten these down
with a 21-millimeter wrench and 22-millimeter
socket.
So, next we're gonna tighten the bed back
down.
In hindsight, you should do this before you
install these brackets, because Barricade
doesn't cut this part out of it.
If you do wait until the end and forget about
it, like I did, what you're gonna have to
do is just use a ratchet to get around that.
Now, we're gonna tighten back down the bed.
And if you look closely, you can see we lost
the cutout here, to get through with the extension,
the Barricade brackets don't have that.
So, what we're gonna do instead, you can see
I already have the bolt started up here, and
we're just gonna finish that off with a ratchet
and 18-millimeter socket.
The positions further toward the front of
the truck though, they're not impeded, you
can still go right through the frame rail
with a bolt and a socket to get those in place.
Now, we're gonna do the same exact thing for
the other side.
So, next up, we're gonna do our spare tire
guide tube, and the way that's gonna work
is, we're just gonna take these small button
head bolts that come in the kit, they look
like that, and a flat washer.
We're just gonna poke that through, line it
up with the tube, then over here, just gonna
tighten that down with a 10-millimeter nut
and another flat washer.
This one over here on the outside, you can
get with the impact, but for this one on the
inside, you're gonna need a 10-millimeter
wrench.
On the other side of this, for the button
head portion of the bolt, I'm just using a
4-millimeter Allen key that actually does
come in the kit with the bumper.
So, now we're gonna do some wiring, we're
gonna start with our positive terminal here.
First off, we're gonna loosen up that 10-millimeter
bolt, and slide on our positive contact.
Once we have that in place, we can tighten
that back down, and do the same thing for
negative.
So, next up, we're gonna mount up our relay,
and you can probably guess by what I have
in my hand, there's really not a great spot
to hard mount this that, that's okay, we're
gonna zip tie it.
This mounting tab right here looks like a
ground, but it's really not, so you can put
this anywhere you want, and where we're gonna
go, is on the underside of this lip right
here, and we can tuck the rest of that slack
down next to the battery.
Two things left for us to do, the first thing
we're gonna do, is handle these plug and play
connectors right here, these are nice and
waterproof, but they are not heat proof.
So, we're just gonna route these down the
engine bay, underneath of the truck, and we're
gonna make sure to keep these away from any
hot or moving components.
Secondly, we're gonna take care of our switch.
Now, this can be tricky to get into the cab
of your truck, but the easiest spot I found
is right here, this big rubber grommet.
If you push that in, it should make a hole
big enough for you to slide the switch through,
and then you can push this back out to reinstall
it and seal the cab of your truck.
Now, once you have that started, you can come
over to the other side, and that should pull
right out of the driver's footwell.
And you can mount this guy up wherever you
want, its got that adhesive back on there,
so we're just gonna pull off that sticker.
One thing you do wanna make sure of, this
wire stays away from any of the pedals, and
then you can press that in place wherever
you want.
Now, we're just gonna feed all those wires
underneath of the truck, and once we get back
here, you can plug in the waterproof connectors.
We're gonna do the same thing for the other
side, and then the kit includes a bunch of
zip ties for you to wire manage this whole
thing.
Again, good rule of thumb here, you wanna
make sure you avoid any hot or moving components
with the wires.
Now, one thing left, and in order to make
this thing street legal, you have to install
this license plate light.
Now, it's gonna come with bare pigtails on
the end, just like this, you can see that
there's already a little bit of wire stripped
back.
You can basically do whatever you want with
this thing, you can hard wire it in.
In our case, we're gonna use these plug and
play spade connectors.
You can vampire clip these in if you want,
this is really up to you, however you wanna
wire this, whatever you wanna wire it into,
but you wanna make sure that this turns on
when your truck turns on in order to make
it street legal.
So, you wanna make sure that there's a little
bit of copper exposed there, and I'm just
gonna slide on our spade connector.
Now, I don't have a wire crimper, so what
I'm gonna do is just crimp it down with a
Channellock, one more extra squeeze, gonna
give that a pull to make sure it's nice and
tight.
And that is not going anywhere, we're gonna
do the same thing for the black wire as well.
So, now we're gonna go over to our truck,
and we already have the female side all connected
up to that master plug that we disconnected
earlier.
Now, I can't speak to wiring, again, your
Silverado wire colors might be a little bit
different, you just wanna make sure you're
splicing into the right stuff in order to
power this thing when it should be on.
We're just gonna feed the wires through this
lower hole in the bumper, then align our light,
and snap it into place, like so, then underneath,
we're just gonna plug in our spade connectors.
Now, guys, that is gonna do it for me, it's
also gonna do it for the Barricade Extreme
HD rear bumper with LED flood lights, fitting
all '07 to '18 Silverado 1500s.
Thank you, guys, for watching.
Subscribe for more videos like this one, keep
it right here at AmericanTrucks for all things
Chevy.
2007-2018 Silverado 1500 RedRock4x4 Tubular Off-Road Rear Bumper w/ LED Work Lights Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
Hey guys.
Joe from American Trucks.
And today we're gonna be working with the
Red Rock 4X4 tubular off-road rear bumper
with LED work lights, fitting all '07 to '18
Silverado and Sierra 1500s.
Now this is gonna be perfect for any Silverado
or Sierra owner out there looking to get a
full-width off-road rear bumper that brings
with it styling, durability, and utility.
This bumper is made out of a heavy duty steel
plate and tube.
It features an awesome black powder coating
which is not just there for looks.
Albeit, if you were going for the blackout
look this would match perfectly.
It's also there to serve as a layer protection
from the elements.
Now, the way this is designed is you would
get a little bit more taper at each end here.
That's going to help you with departure angle.
If you're coming down off an obstacle, it's
less likely to catch on this tubular rear
bumper than it would be on the stock bumper.
If this does end up taking a hit for your
truck though, that heavy duty steel plate
and tube is definitely going to stand up to
it.
Now one of the biggest benefits about this
rear bumper are the two included three inch
LED cube work lights.
They feature 5 watt Cree LEDs.
They come in at a color temperature of around
6,000K, which is going to be a bright white,
very, very slightly toward the blue side.
They're also IP67 waterproof which means they
can take up to a meter of water for half an
hour, more than they should ever see on the
rear bumper of your Silverado or Sierra.
Now we're going to get the stock bumper side
by side with the Red Rock and point out some
comparisons here in just a second.
But one of the things I was personally impressed
with during the install for this is just how
much of that factory functionality you get
to keep.
We have a new relocation bracket for the trailer
harness.
This truck isn't optioned with that so we
just left it off.
But it would sit right about here.
All the hardware you need for that bracket
is included.
We also have some predrilled holes for the
parking sensors.
You could transfer those over and keep that
functionality as well.
If you don't have those options like our Silverado
does here, you can fill those with some rubber
plugs.
They do come included in the kit as well.
We also have the steps on either side to make
it easy to get in and out of the bed.
They're graded so your foot doesn't slip off
of them, a nice touch from Red Rock.
And we also have an included light for our
license plate to make this street legal.
Pricing for this bumper is going to come in
right around that $650 mark.
Usually all the bumpers for Silverado hover
between $500, $1,700, $1,800 on the top end.
So $650, this is definitely going to be more
toward the budget friendly side.
And you do get a lot for your money there
with the included work lights and all of those
factory features retained.
It's definitely well worth the money.
Install for this is going to be a little bit
more difficult than expected.
'14 plus owners will need to loosen up the
bed and actually lift it up to be able to
slide the factory front bumper out.
This is a '16.
So I'm gonna show you how to do that in just
a second.
The work lights are plug and play.
There's a harness included as well as a switch
and a relay.
But the little light next to the license plate
is not.
So, we're gonna have to do just a tiny bit
of wiring as well.
With that being said, I'm gonna give it a
harder two out of three wrenches on our difficulty
meter.
It'll take you two, three hours to get this
hooked up.
So without any further ado let me show you
what tools you'll need to get this done and
how to do it.
Tools required for this install are going
to be an impact 3/8.
Couple of U-joints.
A basic socket set ranging from 22 millimeters
all the way down to 10.
1/2 inch drive extension.
7/8 inch wrench.
19, 18, 17 and 10 millimeter wrench.
We also use the 18 millimeter ratcheting wrench
and the 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench.
These two Allen keys do come included in the
kit.
Some needle-nose pliers.
Vampire clip.
Butt connector.
Razor blade.
Knife.
Flathead screwdriver.
And a wire stripper.
So for the first step, we're going to crawl
underneath of our truck and take out the bulbs
in the license plate lights.
And to remove that all you have to do is twist
that counterclockwise, it will pop right out.
We'll do the same thing for the other side.
We're also going to disconnect the trailer
connection here.
To do that, pull up on this white clip then
you can push down on the tab that's in the
white clip and that should pop right off.
We're also going to disconnect this main harness
back here.
And in order to open that up, you need to
pop this clip right here which is pretty tough.
And then just like the white trailer hitch
clip, you can press down on the tab in the
middle and release it.
Next up we're gonna remove the two 18 millimeter
nuts on the outer side right behind the step
in the rear bumper.
And obviously we're gonna do the same thing
for the other side.
And with those nuts out of the way you can
pull out the bulb plate.
Now, right above those 18 millimeter nuts
you'll see this 15 millimeter bolt.
We're gonna remove that as well on both sides.
Now after that, on each side we'll have a
21 millimeter bolt right here.
We're gonna remove those as well.
Now you'll see in just a second here that
the bed is going to get in the way when we
try to pull this bumper off.
And the way you're actually supposed to do
this is to loosen up the four 18 millimeter
bolts that hold the bed onto the frame.
That gives you enough clearance to pull the
bumper off.
So we're gonna loosen these up right now.
And they don't need to come all the way out,
just loosen.
There's gonna be two on each frame rail.
So we come back a little bit.
You should see another 18.
Loosen that up as well.
And we can do the same thing for the other
side.
Now we're gonna have to take a 10 millimeter
socket and get our license plate off.
That's going to reveal two 13 millimeter bolts
that hold our bumper to the tow bar.
We're gonna loosen those up with a ratcheting
13 millimeter wrench.
And if you don't have a 10 millimeter socket,
flathead screwdriver will work for these as
well.
And we'll do the same thing for the other
side.
Next we're gonna pull up on the truck bed
and pull our bumper out.
When we pull up on the bed it's gonna give
our brackets enough room to pass through.
Now this bed is pretty heavy so I recommend
you guys grab a friend for this.
So with our factory bumper off the truck,
I just wanted to take a second to put the
two next to each other and point out some
of the key improvements that our new Red Rock
bumper is going to be making.
But first, let's start with some similarities.
There's a lot of functionality that you get
to keep with the new Red Rock bumper that
I really like.
First off, you get to keep this step right
here that's an easy way to get in and out
of the bed.
It's a nice feature to have on your truck.
And you do get to keep that with the Red Rock
bumper.
Secondly, if you have rear parking sensors,
there are spots predrilled in the Red Rock
bumper.
We could transfer them over and still keep
that functionality as well.
Now, one thing you probably didn't notice
about the Red Rock bumper is there's no predrilled
hole to the right of the license plate for
our trailer harness to go through.
We are going to keep that functionality as
well.
It just gets relocated to a bracket.
And frankly, I think it cleans up to look
a little bit by not having that predrilled
hole.
And lastly, you can see there's two holes
to the left of the license plate.
That's going to be for our plate light and
the spare tire access hole.
So now, onto a few differences here.
And the biggest improvement that the Red Rock
is going to be making is going to come in
the styling department.
Right.
It's obvious with these two next to each other.
We're ditching that factory chrome and plastic
look in exchange for some heavy duty steel
plate and tube, finished in that awesome black
powder coating.
Which if you're going for the blackout look,
this would be a perfect match, and really
tie together the rear of your truck.
We also get some new functionality with our
Red Rock as well.
As you can see those two precut poles for
the included LED work lights.
They're gonna make a huge difference in light
output at the rear of our truck.
On top of that, we also have some more departure
angle as this tapers up on the sides.
So as you're coming down off of an obstacle,
it's not going to catch as easily on that
new Red Rock as it would on the factory bumper.
So without any further ado let's grab our
new Red Rock bumper.
We're going to put it on the table and do
a little bit of prep work before we get it
on the truck.
So to start with, we're going to plug our
parking sensor holes.
Our truck isn't optioned with rear sensors.
But if yours was, it'd be the same idea.
You put them in place here.
Instead we're gonna use these rubber stoppers
that come in the kit.
And we're going to secure them with the button
head bolts and the included Allen key.
Next up we're gonna do our LED lights.
We need to install these brackets on them
first.
These have a little notch cut out of them.
You wanna make sure that that's facing toward
the front of the light.
Once you have that oriented correctly, you
can squeeze the arms together, and slide that
in between the fins.
Now we have the bracket installed.
You wanna face it toward the back of the light.
We're gonna take these small nuts here and
slide them down our mounting bracket.
And they're gonna sit and lock in between
the fins.
Once we have that in position we can take
this Allen head screw right here and put that
in between the fins to secure it.
Then we can use the Allen key that comes with
each light to tighten down that bolt.
And do the same thing for the other side.
Then we can take the larger bolt that comes
with each light.
We're going to feed this up in between the
fins and the bracket itself, like so.
And you can see there's a cutaway on either
side.
That holds the bolt head still so you don't
have to get a wrench in there.
Once we have that in position we can drop
it in our bumper and secure with a lock washer
and a 13 millimeter nut.
And I'm gonna tighten that nut down with 13
millimeter ratcheting wrench.
Now we're gonna do the same exact thing for
the other light on the other side.
And again, we're just going to slide that
nut down the fins.
Get the bolt started through the fins on both
sides.
Get our brackets swung up and secure it to
the bumper with a 13 millimeter nut.
Next we're just going to slide up our new
license plate light into this smaller lower
hole right here.
That just clicks into place.
We're going to have to wire that up later.
And then we could also come up to these two
holes here, and get our clips in place for
the license plate mount.
Next up we're going to secure our mounting
brackets to the truck.
These are going to install with the largest
22 millimeter hardware included in the kit.
Now, up top on that bracket, that gets the
17 millimeter bolt and nut to secure it.
Now we're gonna do the same thing for the
other side.
Again, the larger nuts and bolts here are
22 millimeters, and the one all the way up
top is a 17.
So now we're gonna lift our bumper up put
it on the tow bar here and rest it on there.
Then we're gonna crawl underneath and secure
it to the brackets using the 18 millimeter
bolts and 19 millimeter nyloc nuts.
And we're gonna do the same thing for the
other side.
So now our bumper is completely built on the
truck, we're gonna start with our wiring.
Now, we have these two contacts right here.
That's gonna go under our positive and negative
terminal.
Obviously red and black.
We also have this relay here.
I'm gonna put it underneath of this diagonal
support brace.
Now we're gonna feed the switch all the way
across the firewall, then go in through a
grommet in the driver's footwell and mount
up our switch.
We're gonna drop down the plug and play connectors
right in front of our airbox here, and then
go all the way down the truck with those and
plug them in.
And that is pretty much it.
This part is pretty simple.
But, we are going to start with the relay.
And we're gonna loosen up this 10 millimeter
bolt right here.
Take that out.
Slide that mounting tab underneath and resecure
it.
So we're gonna start with the positive.
And to do that we're just gonna remove the
nut.
Then slide red wire underneath.
Same thing for our negative terminal.
Now we have the switch right in my hand here.
This is going to turn the lights on and off.
We need to get this into the cab of our truck.
Now there's a grommet over on the driver's
side that we're gonna feed this into, but
it is a pretty tight squeeze.
So we're gonna disconnect the switch part
here.
And then once we have this into the cab we're
gonna reconnect it too and mount up our switch
with the adhesive on the back.
So that brings us to our plug and play connectors
for the LED lights in our bumper.
Now, long story short, we need to get these
all the way to the rear of our truck, but
without getting them in the way of any hot
or moving parts.
And that goes for all the wiring.
Now the engine bay is pretty tricky.
But one of the spots that I like is right
in front of the airbox.
We're gonna fish these down there, and then
basically run these all the way down the frame
rail area until they come out at the rear
bumper on the passenger side.
Then we're gonna split the two and go across
to the driver side.
And we're gonna wire manage these once we
have them connected.
The kit does include some extra zip ties for
you.
So right here is that big rubber grommet.
I'm just gonna push that through a little
bit.
And I have a little bit of space in there.
Now I'm just gonna feed in our quick disconnect
for the switch.
We don't have a lot of slack once we get into
the footwell, but it is just enough to make
this quick disconnect.
So I'm just gonna put the two together.
All right.
So now we're into the cab of our truck with
our switch wired up and good to go.
It's really up to you wherever you want to
There's one thing left for us to do, and that
is to resecure that grommet that we pulled
out in order to get this passed through.
Now once you have the connectors at the back
of the truck you can plug them in.
As you can see our light works.
All we have to do is plug in the other one
and then wire manage all the cabling.
So now we're going to wire up our license
plate light.
Now we're gonna take this harness right here.
This is where the power comes from for the
license plate lights.
Originally, we want these to come on with
the running lights.
And this is what they are wired up to do.
So we're gonna go right here.
First step, we have to cut back this harness
cover here.
Just using the knife you wanna make sure...Obviously,
be careful not to damage the wires inside.
I'm just gonna work that backwards here.
And that will expose the wires in that harness.
Obviously.
They have some electrical tape around them
already.
Gonna back that up a bit as well.
So we finally have that backed up enough here.
And, at least on our '16 Silverado here, you
wanna look for these two green wires.
I found the inner one is definitely one that's
gonna work.
So that is where we're gonna go.
So, now we have our wires exposed, we're just
gonna come in here and grab that green wire.
Get the alligator clamp.
Then grab a pair of needle-nose pliers and
crimp that shut.
Looking pretty good right there.
I like using these alligator clips.
It allows you to quick disconnect with the
spade on the other end.
So I just have an extension wire here with
a spade on it.
I'm just gonna push that in place.
You should have a good connection.
Then we can go to the back of our license
plate light, and get that together with a
butt connector.
Just gonna tighten the box back down to the
frame.
And that is gonna do it for my review and
install of the Red Rock 4X4 tubular off-road
rear bumper with LED work lights fitting all
'07 to '18 Silverado and Sierra 1500s.
Thank you for watching.
I'm Joe.
Make sure you subscribe for more videos like
this.
And I'll thank Chevy and GMC.
etrailer | Roadmaster Base Plate Installation - 2012 Chevrolet Malibu
etrailer.com:
2014-2018 Silverado 1500 Barricade HD Off-Road Rear Bumper Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
Hey guys, it's Joe from American Trucks, and
today, we're gonna be talking about the Barricade
HD off-road rear bumper fitting all '14 to
'18 Silverado 1500s.
Now, this is gonna be a great option for you
if you're looking for a budget-friendly and
off-road-capable rear bumper that is going
to add a lot of presence to the rear of your
Silverado.
So, let's start off the video here diving
into what this rear bumper is made out of,
and that is heavy-duty 5/32-inch steel plate.
We're gonna get this side by side next to
the factory bumper in just a second here so
you can see just how much this is gonna be
an improvement over it.
But suffice to say, that 5/32 steel plate
is gonna be a huge upgrade in durability and
this thing has the looks to match.
It's finished in that two-stage durable black-powder
coating, which is not just there to add to
the looks, it's also there to serve as a layer
of protection over top of that steel to protect
against the elements.
Now, as a package, I really think this thing
comes together really well.
There is not a 90-degree angle on this thing,
except for, I guess, these cut outs for LED
lights.
But it all comes together really nicely, it
really gives you that sort of stealth-fighter
look with that flat-black powder coating on
there, and I really think it looks great on
our gray '16 Silverado.
Now, speaking about that, this bumper is perfectly
designed for some aftermarket lighting.
There is none included in the kit, you just
get these filler grates instead.
But, if you did have some light cubes you
wanted to throw in here, the brackets are
ready to go for you to install those so you
can get some more utility out of this rear
bumper.
This bumper also has a lot of features to
it which are inspired by the factory rear
bumper.
You can see these cut outs on either end,
the steps for easy access into the bed.
You get to keep those and there's even a little
bit of grating in there to make sure you don't
slip off.
And they're made out of steel, again, a huge
upgrade over the factory plastic steps.
This bumper is also hitch-capable, so, if
you do have a receiver, that would mount right
up right where you would expect it to be and
you get a relocation bracket for the trailer
plug that would mount up to this bumper right
about here.
Another great feature from the factory rear
bumper.
If you do have proximity sensors, those will
transfer right over, you can see the four
pre-drilled holes across the back here.
If you don't have those, which we don't, they
give you four plugs instead so you can at
least clean up the look by filling those holes.
You also get a brand new license plate light
right there.
Now, that will need to be hardwired, we're
gonna show you how that's done in just a second
here but, suffice to say, you will need just
a tiny bit of wiring knowledge necessary to
get that up and running and that will make
this bumper street-legal.
So you're gonna need to bring that wiring
knowledge.
Also, speaking about the license plate, you
do get two pre-drilled holes right there and
right there to mount up your license plate.
Now, one gripe I do have with this rear bumper
is this is effectively going to delete the
lock for the spare tire.
Anybody could get in and drop your spare tire
down with this rear bumper.
If that is a worry to you, it would probably
be a good idea to stay away from this one.
However, I have to be honest, most of the
rear bumpers out there for this generation
of Silverado do delete that spare-tire lock.
So, moving right along the pricing, we're
looking right around the $700 mark for this
whole setup, basically all the hardware you
need, mounting brackets, the light, the filler
plates for the LED cube lights, and that is
gonna make this one of the most budget-friendly
rear bumpers we have on the website.
And gripes aside, I do definitely think you
are getting your money's worth with this one.
And this is a stylish off-road-capable and
durable rear bumper.
Now, the install for this one, I'm gonna give
a solid two out of three wrenches on the difficulty
meter.
Now, there's a couple of reasons for that,
first of which, this thing is pretty heavy.
I recommend having a buddy on hand and a case
of beer just to make the install go a little
bit smoother.
Secondly, again, we are gonna have two hard
wire that license-plate light.
And thirdly, I know this is gonna sound a
little bit difficult, but trust me, we're
gonna show you how this is done in just a
second here, but in order to get the factory
rear bumper off, we're gonna have to unbolt
the bed of our truck from the frame.
We're also gonna jack it up just an inch or
two so we can get the factory rear bumper
off the truck.
Again, I'm gonna show you how that works in
just a second here.
All in all, I think you can get this job done
in about two, three hours if you come with
the right tools.
So, without any further ado, let me show you
what tools you'll need and how it's done.
Tools required for this install are going
to include an impact, U-joint, ratchet, extension,
basic socket set ranging from 22 millimeters
all the way down to 10, a wrench set ranging
from 21 all the way down to 10, the Allen
keys, which come included in the kit, and
some wiring stuff such as wire strippers.
I use some spade connectors, you can also
use vampire clips, as well as some channellocks
to crimp those down.
So, before we do anything on this truck, one
thing I would highly recommend doing here,
drop the spare tire out of the way.
This is gonna give you a lot more room to
work underneath of your Silverado here, and
that's definitely a must do before you touch
any hardware on your truck.
Now, another thing we're gonna have to do
before we touch any hardware is we're gonna
have to crawl underneath and disconnect some
of our electronics so this bumper can come
off without pulling on any of the electrics.
First thing we're gonna disconnect, this is
basically a master plug, this is gonna go
to both of the license plate lights.
So it's easier to disconnect here than it
is to disconnect at the license-plate lights.
And what we're gonna do is pull down on that
red tab there, and then, you can push this
in, and that should release the two and you
can separate.
Next up is gonna be the trailer plug.
We're just gonna pull on this gray tab, similar
to the other one, and then, we can press in
and that'll disconnect that.
Next up here, like I said earlier, we're gonna
have to disconnect the bed in order to get
our bumper off.
And in this shot, you can see it clearly,
it's this lip right here is basically going
to hit this piece of metal that goes all the
way across.
And in order to get it past that, we're gonna
have to unbolt the bed and basically lift
up on this thing so that is going to clear.
And what we're gonna do here, take our 18-millimeter
socket and an extension, we're just gonna
come up through the frame and loosen up these
bolts.
We're gonna hit this one, and then, this one
over here as well, then do the same thing
on the other side.
So with the bed effectively disconnected at
the back two bolts only, we're gonna come
over to the side of our frame rail.
This is all the way at the rear.
We're gonna trade our extension for U-joint.
These two nuts right here are 18 millimeters,
we're gonna remove those.
Over here is a 15, we're gonna get that out
of the way as well.
With those nuts removed, you can pull out
this bolt plate, then swap over to the 15
for that last bolt.
Now we're gonna come over to the other side
and do the same thing.
Next up we can focus on this 21-millimeter
hardware here.
We're gonna loosen that up on both sides,
and then, we should be able to crank up on
the bed, and then, pull our bumper straight
off.
Now, for this bolt over here, you will need
a 21-millimeter wrench to hold the bolt head
still, as well as a 21-millimeter socket for
the nut.
That is a little bit stuck right now so what
we're gonna do is we're just gonna take the
bolt out on this side.
You can see, our bumpers loose.
However, it is pushing on that thread.
Pull this back, push up on that bolt, and
you should be able to remove that as well.
Now, the bumper isn't gonna go anywhere.
Again, it's gonna get caught on that lip I
showed you earlier.
Until we push the bed up, we're gonna have
to wait to take this off.
So we're gonna hit the other side, lift the
bed up, clear that lip, and then, remove the
bumper.
So to lift the bed up, you can see, I'm gonna
be using a pole jack here.
Now, if you don't have one of these, you're
in a pinch, the way that I've done this before
is you just lay on your back underneath the
truck and you can basically leg press the
bed up.
That'll give you enough clearance you need
to get this bumper out because the way this
sits right now is, if you pull on this thing,
you're just gonna get stuck right there on
both sides.
So you wanna make sure, if your truck is jacked
up, that it's nice and secure.
If you are gonna use a jack like this one,
if you're going the leg press route, you should
be just fine, since the truck is on the ground.
But, the bed actually isn't that heavy.
So what we're gonna do, jack it up here to
just enough, less than an inch we're probably
gonna need to get this bumper off, and then,
we can pull the thing off.
Now, that's pretty much everything you need
to install on this thing to at least get it
up onto the truck.
Again, if you want your trailer plug, you
can install those brackets.
Also, if you have LED light cubes, you could
swap out those plates with the actual lights
themselves.
And we're gonna wait until we go back to the
truck on that spare tire tube guide.
So, since this is fully-built, I figured now
would be the perfect time to sit it next to
our factory rear bumper and point out some
of the key differences between the two.
The first one, it's gonna be the biggest one,
it's gonna be the upgrade in the looks department.
Now, obviously, if you're going for the blackout
look, this is gonna be a huge upgrade for
you over that chrome, that plastic, that factory-style
rear bumper.
This is really gonna add to the presence of
the rear of your truck.
So it has the looks, but does it have the
build quality over the factory rear bumper?
And the answer is yes.
Again, we got that thin chrome on there with
the plastic, we're ditching all that for some
heavy-duty 5/32-inch steel plate.
That's gonna provide the durability you need
whether you're on the trail or you're at the
work site, this is gonna be, again, a huge
upgrade in presence and durability for the
rear of your truck.
Now, one of the biggest extra features on
this thing is that it is ready to go for some
aftermarket LED cube lights.
Like I said earlier, if you do have those
ready to go in, you could swap out those plates
for the lights and you're pretty much good
to go.
All the brackets you'll need to mount up lights
are already on this thing and ready to go
for you.
Now, what I think really sets this thing over
the top is just how many factory features
you get to keep from that factory rear bumper.
Just to run through the list here, if your
truck does have a hitch, that'll transfer
right over with this bumper.
Obviously, you get to keep the trailer plug
as well.
Those steps on the side of the bumper for
easy bed access, obviously we're keeping those.
We got the pre-drilled holes for the proximity
sensors, you could transfer those right over
as well.
You get a brand new license-plate light with
this thing, we're gonna show you how to wire
that up in just a minute here, but basically,
that's to make sure that this is street-legal.
And also, you have two pre-drilled holes right
here and right here that are perfect for mounting
up a license plate.
Now, as a package, this bumper is a great
deal, there's a lot of features on here you
get to keep, a lot of new features and you
get the build, the quality quality and the
looks too.
So all around, a really great addition to
any '14 to '18 Silverado.
So, now we got a little bit of prep work to
do over on our truck.
We're going to install that spare-tire tube
guide so you're gonna need to bring that with
you, as well as the mounting brackets, we're
gonna mount those up and bolt them to the
frame, then we can hang this bumper up and
tighten it down.
As far as this guy goes, we're just gonna
slide that on like so.
We're gonna leave that sit there until later
just because it's easier to put that onto
the bumper once the bumper is installed to
the truck.
Now, that brings us to the more important
portion here, that's gonna be our mounting
bracket.
You wanna make sure you grab the right one.
You can see this one is marked with a P for
passenger side.
And that is basically gonna sit in the frame
rail just like so.
So in order to attach this with the first
bolt, which is gonna be the smallest, you
wanna come all the way up to this top position,
that's gonna take the 16-millimeter bolt head.
And then, on the other side here, we're going
to install our flat washer as well as a 17-millimeter
nut.
For the second bolt here basically what we're
gonna do is come to this position right here.
This is gonna be the medium-sized bolt, that
is going to be an 18-millimeter bolt head
and it's going to install on the other side
with a 19-millimeter nut.
For the third bolt, we're gonna come to this
lowest position here, this is gonna be the
biggest of the three.
That's gonna be a 21-millimeter bolt head
and, on this side, a 22-millimeter nut.
We're gonna tighten all that down, and then,
we're gonna do the same thing for the other
side too.
Next, we're just gonna drop in these plates,
right like so.
We're gonna secure that plate to the bumper
with the button-head bolts that have the captive
washers on them as well as a 10-millimeter
flange nut.
To tighten those down, we'll just use this
Allen key and a 10-millimeter wrench.
This Allen key does come included in the kit.
We're gonna do the same exact thing on the
other side as well.
So now you can hold the bumper up, Align the
two holes on the bumper with the two holes
on the mounting bracket.
You can run this hardware through, this is
the largest hardware included in the kit.
tighten the nut down with the 22-millimeter
socket.
We're gonna hold the bolt still with a 21-millimeter
wrench.
Now we're going to come over and do the same
thing for the other side.
Next we're gonna take care of our spare-tire
tube.
We dropped this on earlier because basically
you wouldn't be able to get this on otherwise.
You wanna make sure you do that before the
bumper is installed.
Now, once we're at this position now, you
can take the small button-head bolts included
in the kit.
We're just gonna run those through from the
outside, just to clean up it looks a little
bit.
We can bring in spare-tire tube, hold that
still.
And then, on this side, install a flat washer,
followed by an nylon lock nut.
Now we're gonna hold that still on the outside
with the Allen key we've been using.
I'm just gonna press that up center.
And this one on the outside you can get with
the impact gun, you can use a 10-millimeter
socket to tighten this down.
However, this one, over here on the inside,
is a little bit more tricky.
Since the tube is angled, you're gonna need
to bring up the 10-millimeter wrench for this
one.
Now, after that, you wanna make sure you remember
to bolt down your bed.
We're gonna use the original 18-millimeter
hardware for that.
Now, one thing that is a little bit tricky
here is that our new Barricade mounting brackets
do not have the same cut out from the factory
to allow you to get to that with just an extension,
you're gonna need a U-joint as well.
Or if you don't have that, you can probably
get to that with a socket and just a ratchet
and turn it out here.
In hindsight, it probably would've been a
better idea to reinstall the bed before you
put these brackets on, that would make it
easier to just get straight up to that bolt
with just an extension.
We're gonna do the same thing for the other
bed bolt as well, and then, we're gonna go
over to the other side and repeat this process.
Now, one thing left and, in order to make
this thing street-legal, you have to install
this license-plate light.
Now, it's gonna come with their pigtails on
the end, just like this.
You can see that there's already a little
bit of wire stripped back.
You could basically do whatever you want with
this thing, you can hardwire it in.
In our case, we're gonna use these plug-and-play
spade connectors.
You can vampire clip these in if you want,
this is really up to you, however you wanna
wire this, whatever you wanna wire it into.
But you wanna make sure that this turns on
when your truck turns on in order to make
it street-legal.
So you wanna make sure that there's a little
bit of copper exposed there, and I'm just
gonna slide on our spade connector.
Now, I don't have a wire crimper so what I'm
gonna do is just crimp it down with the channellock.
One more extra squeeze, just going to give
that a pull and make sure it's nice to tight,
and that is not going anywhere.
We're gonna do the same thing for the black
wire as well.
So now we're gonna go over to our truck, and
we already have the female side all connected
up to that master plug that we disconnected
earlier.
Now, I can't speak to wiring, again, your
Silverado wire colors might be a little bit
different.
You just wanna make sure you're splicing and
it's the right stuff in order to power this
thing when it should be on.
Now we can push the light through this lower
hole in the bumper.
And then, we can plug in our quick disconnects
on the other side.
Guys, that is gonna do it for me, it's also
gonna do it for the Barricade HD off-road
rear bumper fitting all '14 to '18 Silverado
1500s.
Thank you guys for watching.
Subscribe for more videos like this one, keep
it right here at American Trucks for all things
Chevy.
Installation of the Enkay Rock Tamers Mud Flap - etrailer.com
etrailer.com:
2007-2018 Silverado RedRock 4x4 Tubular Off-Road Rear Bumper Review & Install
AmericanTrucks Chevy & GMC:
So, if you own an '07 to '18 Silverado and
you're watching this video, then you probably
understand quite well by now that your truck
is rugged and it deserves a badass rear bumper,
right?
These armored rear bumpers provide more protection,
especially if you go off-road or if you're
at the work site and they just look good,
but out of all the bumpers available, why
should you be looking at the RedRock tubular
4x4 Off-Road rear bumper?
Well, for starters, it's one of the most affordable
options currently available, and what I like
about it particularly is the fact that it
actually kind of retains the factory styling,
form, and function of the factory bumper.
A lot of the other options on the page are
more expensive, they're bigger, they're bulkier,
and there are even some options that costs
as much as the RedRock option, but they're
still a lot beefier than this one.
This one's a little bit more understated,
a little bit more minimalist.
It definitely follows the contours of the
body lines of the truck a little bit better
than some of the other options, in my humble
opinion.
So, overall, I think it looks the nicest,
but as far as functionality goes, it definitely
is up to par with all the other options currently
available.
It's made out of the thick tubular design
with plate-welded steel on here.
That steel is about an eighth of an inch thick.
You get really heavy-duty, half-inch thick
mounting brackets, which makes it a bolt-on
install by the way.
And on top of that, you have a nice stainless
steel construction with a black powder coat
finish on top.
That black powder coat finish is a cured and
baked on finish.
It's not just a painted finish.
So, if you ever do get some light strikes
or dings on this thing, chances are that finish
will hold up just fine and even if you do
manage to hit this thing hard enough to take
the finish off, you don't get to worry about
that rust or corrosion underneath because,
again, it is stainless steel.
Now, back to that install.
It is a bolt-on job.
There's no cutting or permanent modification
required.
You can get this done with hand tools at home.
So, for that reason, I'm gonna give the install
a modest two out of three wrenches on my difficult
meter, pretty straightforward job.
It is a little heavy though, so I recommend
having a friend with you or at least having
some pole jacks or floor jacks handy.
It shouldn't take you more than two hours
to get this thing bolted on.
Now, back to that functionality real quick.
This thing has got a lot going for it.
Optionally, you can install some light cubes
here with these little mesh cutouts removed.
Those light cubes are plug and play by the
way.
They're specifically designed for the wiring
harness for the Silverado, so there's no splicing
required, but if you do not wanna go with
those light cubes, well, again, you've got
these nice little mesh cutouts here.
Now, other cool things to point out here,
the entire top of the bumper is technically
a step and they included these nice perforations
on there.
You also got some nice corner steps right
here with perforations on the side.
I'll get into that a little bit later when
we pull the factory bumper off and I'll show
you guys a nice comparison and that way you
can also see how this thing kind of closely
matches the shape and style of the factory
bumper.
So again, if you want one of the most affordable
rear armored bumpers for your Silverado, you
should be checking out the RedRock 4x4 and
if you decide to go with this one, you can
come back in just a moment.
I'll show you guys what tools you'll need
to get the job done and then I'll walk you
through the install step by step.
All right.
Guys, before we get started, you wanna head
over to our toolbox, grab two standard drive
ratchets, and you'll also need a 10, 15, 17,
18, 19, and 21-millimeter socket.
I would go with deep sockets just to be safe.
You'll also need a 10, 17, 18, 19, and 22-millimeter
wrench.
And for wiring up your new license plate light,
you'll need some snips and you'll also need
a crimping tool.
You'll also need a quick splice connector
or a butt connector.
Now, optional, but helpful tools include an
impact gun, an air ratchet, and some swivel
sockets.
All right.
Guys, so to remove the factory bumper, it's
pretty straightforward.
It's just a couple of nuts and bolts.
So, we need a 15, 18, and 21-millimeter socket.
But before we actually loosen the bumper,
we have to tackle a couple of electrical connections.
Specifically, we have to unplug our trailer
harness, we're gonna also have to take out
both of our license plate lights.
You don't need any tools for those.
It's just a couple of plastic retainers so
go ahead and give them a squeeze with your
fingers, rotate them, and pop them free.
All right.
So, we're actually able to pop the license
plate out because we can't show you guys underneath
the bumper, but in order to disconnect this
real easy, just go ahead and twist and the
light bulb will come right out.
All right.
Now that we have all those electrical connections
taken care of, we can disconnect the bumper.
We're gonna start with this bottom bolt here
on the bottom frame rail.
You'll need your 21-millimeter socket for
this guy.
All right.
Next, we wanna unbolt the bumper from the
side of the frame rail here.
It's secured with one 15-millimeter bolt and
two 18-millimeter nuts.
Now, keep in mind, once you remove this hardware,
the bumper will be disconnected from the vehicle.
It is a little heavy, so you wanna make sure
that you have a friend holding it or jack
stands supporting it.
All right.
Once you've removed those two nuts, you can
remove the double-bolt plate from the other
side of the frame.
All right.
Once you remove that double-bolt plate, you
can remove that 15-millimeter bolt.
If you're using power tools, I recommend using
a short socket because it is a squeeze.
All right.
We got all those nuts and bolts removed and
we're ready to remove our bumper, but before
we do that, you wanna take your time, right?
Because there actually still is a wiring harness
that has some Christmas tree fittings, some
little plastic retaining clips, holding it
to the top of the bumper.
So, pull it out a little bit, just enough
to expose that, and then with a plastic trim
tool or with a flathead screwdriver or just
with your fingers if you really want to, go
ahead and gently pry those free.
Once the wiring harness is free, then you
can pull the bumper out of the frame rails
entirely.
All right.
So, we've got our factory bumper removed,
that way you guys can see a real comparison
between both and like I said earlier, as you
can see, it does generally follow the form
of the factory bumper, which I like.
A lot of those armored bumpers are big and
bulky and they're actually a little bit more
expensive because you're just paying for more
material and more fabrication.
I liked this one, again, because it's minimalist.
Now, with that said, the new bumper is actually
more functional than the factory one.
Factory one does have a step across the top
and in the center there, but this ones actually
have perforations on it, which is nice if
you've got work boots on, it's snowing outside,
you got mud on them, whatever it keeps traction
for you.
You've got that step in the middle still,
but on the corners here, you got really nice
small perforations as well.
That just helps getting the things out of
the side of the bed.
Now, as far as the bolt-on application goes,
all we got to do is throw these brackets in
place.
So, let's go ahead and grab that hardware
and I'll show you what tools you need and
we'll get those brackets installed.
Then I'll show you how to mount the new bumper
on our frame rails.
All right.
So, to get the brackets installed, we're actually
reusing some of our factory hardware.
We're gonna start off with that double-bolt
plate and those two 18-millimeter nuts that
we removed earlier.
You're gonna slide the bracket in place and
line all the holes up, then throw that little
bolt plate in there, tighten that stuff down,
and then I'll show you what hardware we're
gonna be pulling from the kit.
Now, when you tighten down this bolt plate
here, this little plate might actually bend
a little bit and it's gonna form itself around
the bracket.
That's okay, that's expected.
And again, to tighten these two nuts down,
you'll need an 18-millimeter deep socket.
And when you go to tighten this down, make
sure you line up that back hole there so you
can get that M10 bolt in there later.
All right, in this rear most hole, we're gonna
be using our M10 bolt.
Let's see, 17-millimeter hex head bolt, you'll
need two flat washers, and you'll need the
appropriate nylon nut.
Now, I would put the bolt facing outward,
that way you can put your wrench on the inside
of the frame rail then you can get your socket
on the outside.
All right.
For our bracket on the bottom here, we're
gonna install this M14 bolt in the kit.
These are the widest and shortest bolts provided
in the kit.
You will need a 21-millimeter deep socket
and a 22-millimeter wrench to tighten these
down.
Make sure you have two of the appropriate
size flat washers on either side before doing
so.
All right.
With that bracket down, it's the same process
for the other side.
All right.
So, we're finally ready to throw our bumper
in place.
In order to secure the bumper to the brackets,
you will need those M12 bolts with two flat
washers and the appropriate nylon locking
nuts.
Now, this thing is heavy, so I got my buddy
here, Scott helping me out.
What you wanna do is have someone, a friend
or jack stands if you're in a pinch, hold
the bumper up in place, line up the brackets
and those holes, thread those bolts and nuts
in there, and then I'll show you guys how
to tighten those down.
All right.
Now that our bumper has been secured with
that one bolt and nut, we put the truck back
up in the air.
That way you guys can see what we're doing
underneath here.
Pretty straightforward stuff.
You just thread this bolt with the flat washers
and the nyloc nuts through the bumper bracket
and the bracket that secures it to the frame.
Now, to tighten this stuff down, you will
need a 19-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter
wrench.
All right.
With our bumper secure, we can install the
bracket for our trailer hitch plug.
Now, there are two plugs in the kit.
You want the one that is shaped like so because
the other one is actually for a Ford style
trailer plug.
At any rate, you will need the M6 bolts provided
in the kit.
These are hex head bolts with the 10-millimeter
heads, and you'll need a 10-millimeter socket
and wrench to tighten all this stuff down.
All right.
Now, we can install the actual trailer hitch
plug.
You wanna press up on this little fin right
here to unlock it and rotate it and it'll
fall right out of the bumper.
All right.
Now, the plug fits inside the bracket upside
down, so you wanna put it in right side up
until it pushes all the way through, rotate
it.
You'll feel some tension on it.
Then you wanna make sure that it's vertical
upside down.
And once you get it seated vertically, it
will stay locked in place.
All right.
Now, the last step here is getting this license
plate light in place.
Pretty straightforward stuff.
The plate itself on the light actually acts
as the ground to the bumper, so all you need
is to get power to it.
Now, to do that, we're gonna splice directly
into the factory wiring harness for the factory
license plate lights.
All right.
So, once you got the wiring completed for
that license plate light, that'll wrap up
the install.
And that also wraps up my review of the RedRock
4x4 Tubular Off-Road rear bumper fitting your
'07 to '18 Silverado.
I'm Travis.
Thanks for watching.
Keep it right here at americantrucks.com.
TrailerMate Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles Installation - 2013 Chevrolet Equinox
Posting Komentar
Posting Komentar