GMC Ford Dodge Chevrolet Dynomax Builders Bundle VT Muffler Valve Technology Truck 88346
JEGS Performance:
Matt: You're a big guy, you can carry that,
come on.
Bruno: Welcome to Truck U, I'm Bruno Massel.
Matt: And I'm Matt Steele.
Bruno: Now today, we've got this 2006 1500
Dodge truck in the shop and one of the complaints
from the owner was the fact that there was,
the muffler. He said that, from the day he
got it, it always had an annoying drone when
he got up to cruising speeds. And, that's
a common complaint with these trucks. So,
we took out the exhaust system. I took out
the exhaust system and I found another issue.
I found an exhaust leak. So, this is the first
thing we need to address.
Matt: Well, we also know that this truck has
a little over 60,000 miles and he's a little
bit heavy on the brake pedal. I mean, you
take a look at this, you can almost see through
the rotor. I mean I'm, a sheet of paper back
there I could read through it almost.
Bruno: That's bad.
Matt: We need to address that and there's
gonna be a couple of other issues as well,
I'm sure.
Bruno: You know, one of the things we like
to do here, is rather than throwing factory
parts on a factory vehicle, we like to take
it up a notch. For just a little bit more
money, you can go much better than stock.
Matt: Did you say better than stock?
Bruno: Yes.
Matt: Check this out, what do you think of
this?
Dramatic Announcer Voice: Better than stock.
Bruno: What is that?
Matt: That is a little something unique that
I bring to the table, right? That's what I
do, I spice it up.
Bruno: You bring something.
Matt: Yeah, exactly. You don't like it?
Bruno: I dunno, it's just a little weird.
Matt: Let me give this a try. Check this out.
Dramatic Announcer Voice: Sunday, Sunday,
Sunday!
Bruno: Now that I can get on board with.
Matt: I thought you would like that. Now,
this guy does good work and he's cheap. He's
gonna grow on you, give it some time.
Bruno: I hope so. All right, now let me get
rid of this, we can get to work.
Matt: All right.
Matt: Today's fun starts right here with the
DynoMax Builder's Bundle. The cool thing is,
we got everything we need for the entire exhaust
system for this particular truck. Now, the
Builder's Bundle actually will fit the vast
majority of your domestic, later model, light
duty trucks that are on the road today. And,
it's got everything, like I said, from the
pipes, to the muffler, to the brackets, tips,
it's all here.
Bruno: Well, the cool part of this whole system,
the coolest part I should say, is the DynoMax
VT Muffler. Now, what's great about it, first
and foremost, it's a high-flow, high-performance
muffler. You're gonna get that aggressive
sound you want, you gonna get the full characteristics
you're looking for in a performance muffler.
But the magic happens here, with this control
valve. What it does, it actuates at that critical
RPM range where the drone comes into play.
This kills the drone, and allows you to get
all the performance you want out of a high-flow
muffler.
Matt: Can I just say, once again, that I love
cut-aways. I love being able to see what's
going on. Man, that is so cool. But, like
I said, look at the construction of this.
It's all fully welded, 409 stainless down
the pipes. Man, this is gonna last. 304 stainless
on the tips, those look nice. The mounting
hardware, like I said, it's all here man.
Bruno: And, it comes with a 90-day sound and
performance guarantee, as well as a lifetime
limited warranty. So, all we gotta do now
is, get it in the truck.
Matt: Guess we need to get to work, don't
we. You need to get to work.
Bruno: This one might be a little noisy. I'll
take this one.
Matt: You need a hand with that or you good?
Bruno: Oh, I'm always doing the heavy lifting.
I'm used to that.
Matt: You are, man, and that's one of the
things I like about you. All right, so the
first thing we had to do with the old system
was cut it off and get it out of the way,
right? So, we made that cut as close to the
muffler as we possibly could. The reason we
did that was, we weren't sure where everything
was gonna lay in, so we needed to kinda get
an idea of that. And we wanted to leave ourselves
plenty of pipe right here to work with, because,
if we have to make any cuts or adjustments,
it's a lot easier to come up here and cut
some off than it is to try to make this longer,
you know?
Bruno: Yeah, to say the least. Now, our first
measurement was telling us, you wanna take
off about 7 inches. Now, the problem with
the 7 inches is, it put us into this flange
and the two would butt up into each other.
So, that's not a good scenario. So, we left
it an inch longer here, this way it'll connect
it good on this side and it should be about
an inch off. And that looks about right on
the back end, so we'll cut these an inch off
here and we should have about the right length
we need, to button this whole thing back up.
Matt: That's the beauty of the Builder's Bundle,
is that it's a universal kit, so whether it's
us, or whoever's installing the system, they
make a couple cuts, and that baby's gonna
fit like a glove. Now, DynoMax also has direct
fit kits, that are tailor made for individual
vehicles, so if you want to tackle this project
by yourself, you can do it and you don't even
have to make any cuts. That's the beauty of
it man, you got options.
Bruno: Here, take this and chop saw.
Matt: All right. Well, you're gonna cut it,
right?
Bruno: I gotta do everything.
Matt: You do.
Now, we needed to make up some hangers and
we can use these stock insulators, which are
good. But, we'll bend these up to what we
need, weld them on, it'll hold everything
in place.
All right, we'll tighten up a few more things
and this baby's installed and this job is
done, this is good.
Bruno: Yeah, this guy's gonna be stoked, because
this new DynoMax VT series muffler's gonna
kill that annoying drone he's been complaining
about and this whole Builder's Bundle's all
tightened up. You know, we had a few obstacles
we had to clear, with the rear-end and the
spare tire, but it is done. Just a little
more buttoning up and we're ready to go, which
means, it's a good time for us to take a break,
and-
Matt: Hold on now, wait, woah, woah, listen.
We've got that handled, right? Listen. You
ready?
Bruno: Oh, that's right.
Matt: Hit it:
Dramatic Announcer Voice: We'll be-
Matt: Keep the noise down, we paid this guy,
we wanna use him.
Bruno: All right, fair enough.
Dramatic Announcer Voice: We'll be right back.
Bruno: I think you paid him too much.
Matt: He's really good.
How to Replace EVAP Purge Solenoid valve 14-19 Chevy Silverado
1A Auto Parts:
5 Reasons Pushrod Engines Still Exist
Engineering Explained:
EVAP Vent Solenoid – 1999-2006 5.3L Chevy Silverado (Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, etc.)
BlueDriver:
hey welcome to another very helpful fear
no fix video here on our BlueDriver
Channel today on this 2005 chevy
silverado 5.3 liter engine we're gonna
tackle the EVAP vent valve or EVAP
canister this is caused if you use your
BlueDriver and you've pulled a P0442, P0446, P0455, those three
codes that's very likely to be this
canister that we're gonna take a look at
if you've pulled a P0449 two-thirds
of the time it might be the gas cap so
don't embarrass yourself check your gas
cap before you get working on this Chris
this is an easy fix no special tools
required we're gonna be working
underneath the truck but you're probably
not gonna need to jack it up, EVAP
canister is located just in front of the
gas tank about mid way back just under
the truck on a driver side now one thing
to know is that if you go and order this
part it might be different from what's
on the truck already there are two
designs one has one port on it one has
two you can use them both will touch
more on this later but if you do look
under the truck and what you see doesn't
match what you bought don't panic now
also if you have another vehicle in this
generation of GM truck or SUV say a
Sierra maybe something like suburban
then it's gonna be a pretty similar fix
everything might not be in the exact
same place but it should apply as well
yeah so this is definitely a fix that
you should not fear should take you
about a half an hour save you a ton if
you liked this video please like it and
subscribe to our blue driver Channel now let's get to it
The tools you'll need
for the evap repair are a screwdriver
and a knife a box cutter or a cutting tool
alright now we're under the truck we're about midway back gas tank right here and the EVAP canister
is right up here we'll start by disconnecting the connector on the canister remove the
connector from the canister by prying up
on the red tab and pulling down
to remove the canister take a
screwdriver insert it from the left pry
up on the metal tab and then slide it to
the left now before you forget you can
bend that tab back in that's the tab
right there in the center to make sure
that the new one clips in place now
we're going to disconnect the quick
connect over here usually there's a
plastic and clip right here you can see
it's missing so someone's already had
this off we're not going to reuse this
line so if you break it it's not that
big a deal once you get that plastic
clip off of the screwdriver just slide
it off and remove the canister
all right out with the old in with the
new
uh Oh Chris talk to me about this
alright so this is an older design
you're gonna see this on older trucks
it's a canister and a filter all in one
so solenoids in here filters in here and
there are little openings that allow air
to escape after it passes through the
charcoal filter apparently these are
more prone to getting clogged they're
kind of low they're exposed dust and
dirt can get in there this newer design
this is just the solenoid and then
you've got a remote filter that you're
gonna tuck up in the frame somewhere out
of the way with the tie wrap and this
apparently is going to be less prone to
clogging so you're less likely to
replace it sometime soon many times the
OEMs will have quality problems and
warranty problems in the field and this
looks to be another one of those
examples so if the part doesn't look
exactly right this may be the newer
solution perhaps it's more reliable for
you and one other note this part
actually is still available through our
company's making reproduction parts that
have the single port design so if you
want you can find the exact replacement
that'll just drop right in
All right now we're just gonna cut some 5/8 inch heater hose to length to replace the
hard plastic line here is this a measure
twice cut once how do you do this you
depends on how much hose you buy so
we're just gonna cut this hose roughly
to the same length of what we have right
now but it doesn't have to be too exact
okay and so you always use razor knife
for this Is a flush 90 degree
cut important I mean this is gonna be
semi airtight we're only using hose
clamps but we don't want to have your
place this hose again
next year if there are little cuts or
tears in it
not perfect good enough then we're to
cut second one and this is for the
remote filter and that's just gonna be a
couple of inches long you can always
trim it down later if you want
perfect
so if we're doing the new style then
we'll take our little piece of heater
hose put it on with hose clamps and
we're just gonna find a nice spot up
behind around the frame rail somewhere
to tuck it in if you're using a single
port design then you can skip this step
also while I was hunting for a nice spot
to tuck in the filter I think I found
the subject of one of our next videos
that's supposed to happen right
depending on the year your truck there
might be two kinds of connectors if you
buy an aftermarket part a lot of them
can come with this little pigtail that
will convert it to the type that you
need if it's not already on it
on this truck we're going to need that adapter
hook up the remote filter tighten the
hose clamp
put on the canister
plug in the connector might be a good
idea to tie wrap this up out of the way
or find something clip this onto and
then plug it in
and then we'll connect canister
make sure the hose isn't kinked
otherwise you might throw more codes
now we'll tighten the hose clamps
and we're done
okay so that was quick huh only about a half an hour here's the bad
guy out with the old in with the new
Chris easy fix one thing to be careful
about when you go and cut up your hose
make sure that it's not cut too short if
you have any kinks in your hose you
might plug the line and your codes might
come back and again this is definitely
as you saw a fix that you should not
fear hope you use this hope it helped
you out hope we'd save you some money if
you like this video please like us and
also subscribe to our channel on BlueDriver
and always remember after you
clear your check engine light you are
going to need to drive around for about 40 minutes
so that you can reset your emission
monitors you can check if your monitors
have been reset by using this smog check
function or smog test function on your BlueDriver
so until next time Fear No Fix
Symptoms and Diagnosis of a Bad Evap Vent Valve Solenoid - List of Codes Included
Ratchets And Wrenches:
- hey how's it going do it yourselfer's, do you have trouble putting gas in your car.
Oh what's going on here my tank isn't even close to
full. or do you have a check engine light regarding
your evap system or your evap vent solenoid
if that's the case I got some good news because
today we're sharing how exactly you're evap vent solenoid works and also how you can
test it now in order to help you understand
this whole thing better we're going to start
at our fuel tank so as you can see at our fuel
tank we have gas in a liquid form but we
also have fuel vapors, now in order that these
fuel vapors don't go to waste or get outside
into the atmosphere without being filtered
the car companies have designed what's called
an evap system through the evap system these
vapors get deposited into what's called the
charcoal canister which looks like this and
this thing is filled with carbon pellets and
as you guys can see where it says tank this
is where the vapors enter the charcoal canister
from your fuel tank and on the car the charcoal
canister is usually located by your fuel tank
and as you can see in the case of this 2001 Hyundai Elantra it's just to the left of our fuel tank
here. So as more and more vapers from your
fuel tank enters your charcoal canister the
hydro carbon particles get deposited into
your charcoal canister because they basically
get stuck to the carbon pellets you have in
your canister and then from there after the
charcoal canister removes the harmful hydrocarbons
the rest of the air goes through your vent
solenoid and out into the atmosphere. and then
once in a while in order to use the hydrocarbons
that are deposited inside your charcoal canister
your evap system opens a purge solenoid which
opens your evap system to the vacuum that's
inside your intake manifold and from there
these hydrocarbons going to get inside your
engine and then get reused but we won't get
into the purge solenoid in this video I'll cover
that in a separate video. Oh and by the way here's
a look at our vent solenoid on this car and
as you would expect it's right next to the
charcoal canister. Now as far as you vent solenoid is concerned
this solenoid is usually in the open position
which allows for the flow of the filtered
air from the your fuel tank and your you have
system to the outside atmosphere but your
car's computer in order to test your evap
system will close this valve and then during
the purging of your evap system will measure
the pressure or the vacuum that's in the system
and then compare that to some pre-set parameters
and if they're not within that parameter it will
throw a code and these vent solenoids usually
have two wires going to them one of them is
going to supply them with the constant battery
voltage from your fuse or junction box the
other one comes from your car's computer and
your car's computer uses the ground side
to activate and deactivate these solenoids.
and again it only does that when it's time
to test your evap system under normal circumstances
these solenoids are open. So as you can see
here are two wires that are going to our vent
solenoid so if you want to check for power
to it you would get your test light and then
connect it to a good ground so after removing
the connector to get your test light and the
pin that gives you the nice bright light that's
the one that supplying power to your vent solenoid.
now if using an LED test light like I
am you might not only get a nice bright light
on one wire which is the power supply wire
but on the other one you might get a little
bit of a light too, see the way this works is
under normal circumstances that 12 volts
that goes through here goes through the
windings of the vent solenoid or the song
itself and then from there through the ground
wire back to the PCM and that's how the PCM
I think knows that the wires and the connections
are in good shape as far as why there is voltage
inside the ground wire coming from your car's
computer when you remove the connector I'm
not really sure you know that multi just might
be the computers way of checking and making
sure this wire is not shorter to ground checking
to see whether the circuit is complete or
I don't know maybe the PCM is just being a
bitch but I don't know their that there is
the voltages is on the ground side just don't
fall for it and make sure you use a test late
by the way just a bitch for the first time
in one of my videos, and I just did it for
the second time crap, and just said crap fuck,
shit this is going to go on for a while isn't
it. That's what I can find out the weather
the ground wire is doing his job and also
that your pc and supplying ground to this
or not it is that if you have an advanced
scanner basically you would manually turn
this vent solenoid on and off through the
scanner and then either you know you can listen
to see whether it's clicking on and off or
not or you can also back properties and making
sure you're getting ground when you're activating
this one right and so on and so forth but
if you don't have an advanced scanner well
you could do is the first thing obviously
reconnect this connector your vent solenoid
then back probe these two wires and then attach
your test light on to each and both the ground
and the tip of your test light and then make
sure that your engine is cold that the car
has been sitting for a couple hours at least
and then have someone turn on the car and
then observe your test light because you know
your car's computer i believe runs that test
the evap tests from a cold start and that's
when it supplies drowned and you know if you
got the tests back protein to these two wires
and she was your test light light up indicating
that your computer is indeed something ground
to your eve at in solana mass far as why the
bad men solenoid would keep you away from
putting gas in your gas tank well when this
is a when this goes bad in the closed position
it basically keeps the vapors from entering
your charcoal canister and then from there
scraping out into the atmosphere because you
know from the purge solenoid side that's always
that's also closed on there normal circumstances
so basically pressure builds up here you're
not able to put gas in to your guests thankfully
the guests backs up into the philip i pipe
activating the shut-off switch inside the
gas nozzle and then that's how you're not
able to put gas in your gas tank but you're
not being able to put gas in your guests thing
is not always an indication that you got a
man soweth that shut closed see if you have
some blockage in this pipe coming from the
charcoal canister like these pellets if they
break up or you know that whatever it is keeping
them in one place breaks up and he's getting
to this pipe and block the the passage here
it's going to be the same is going to have
the same effect same thing that can happen
if the this filter thats on some makes and
models just after your vent solenoid which
is there to protect the the hoses and events
on it from getting clogged up with during
to be from the road gets clogged up if that
gets clocked up again it's a blockage keeping
away from keeping the the air from escaping
into the atmosphere and same thing is going
to happen now on the other hand we have a
vent solenoid that stuck in the open position
and it doesn't close when your car's PCM commands
it to when it decides to test the evap system
well in that case if it's stuck open when
it's interesting that you have system is just
going to suck in a whole lot of air and you
got to get a check engine light for a large
vacuum leak in in your email system and if
you get a check engine light and the code
is for a small back home league that's usually
a problem with your gas cap what happens is
this rubber seal around that goes bad and
then it'll last for some air to get into the
evap system in the heating is small vacuum
leak but if you replace your guests cap and
you still have that code then that's either
a leak through one of these horses or potentially
event solenoid that doesn't close completely
niners to find those small vacuum leaks you'll
need to pressurize the system using a smoke
machine and then look to see where smoke escaping
and that's where you have your week but if
you suspect your events all night and you
want to bench this test to see whether it's
not closing all the way you basically just
remove it you supply voltage and growl to
it and when you hear the click then you apply
back you get a vacuum pump and yep i vacuumed
from this end and if it holds vacuum there's
a kid but if it's not holding back you know
that means that it's got a small leak and
it's not closing all the way also if you suspect
that your men sooner this start closed even
if you want two benches that you simply remove
it and blow air through it and sense without
voltage or ground this should be in the open
position you should have no problem blowing
air through it and that's all there is to
it not sorry about the coasting but if you
like this video I want to thank me obviously
I appreciate all the comments that you guys
leave but make sure share these videos i put
up that's probably the best way to thank you
to bury a content creator that's how the Word
spreads and that's how people get paid when
putting up informative videos but anyway if
you like this video make sure you subscribe
and also if you wanna watch some other related
videos i'll put a link to them on the side
of the screen that you can check out. And
I'll see you guys next time. Thanks for Watching.
How to Diagnose and Fix a Noisy or Sticking Power Steering Wheel
Ratchets And Wrenches:
Hey how is it going do it yourselfers, today
I am going to show you how you can diagnose
a noisy power steering which may or may not
be accompanied by a sticky steering wheel.
Alright so the first thing you want to do
is to check the level of your power steering
fluid. And if you are low you want to add
power steering fluid just make sure you look
in your owners manual and add the correct
power steering fluid for your car. So next
you start your car and see whether the noise
has gone away or not. So next what you want
to do is to try to bleed out the air that
could be trapped inside your power steering
system and you do that by turning your steering
wheel from lock to lock with the engine running.
So basically you turn your steering wheel
all the way to the right and than all the
way back to the left and you do this for about
a dozen times or so and this should help bleed
out the air that's in the system. Now after
adding fluid and than turning the steering
wheel back and forth a couple of times you
find that the noise goes away and you also
get your power steering back, well in that
case you obviously had a leak in your power
steering system and that's what was causing
the noise and the lack of power steering,
now later in this video I'll go over how you
can go about finding leaks in your power steering
system. But if you find that bleeding the
air out of the system has made no difference
at all, well in that case most of the times
the problem is going to lay with your power
steering pump which is back there on this
car that I can't show you but it's generally
somewhere up here which is more accessible.
Now I say most of the times it's your power
steering pump, because sometimes a bad rack
and pinion would have the same signs. Now
usually a bad rack and pinion is also accompanied
by some other signs like loose steering while
you are driving down the road, or leaking
specially from the ends where your inner tie
rods attack to your rack and pinion, alright
see this is your inner tie rod end, this is
where it attaches to your rack and pinion
and inside here there is a seal. Which is
in fact leaking on this rack and pinion. Now
a dead giveaway that you have a bad rack and
pinion is whenever you go to make a turn so
for example over here we are about to make
a right turn, so after you make the turn,
your steering wheel is going to try to straighten
out and come back to the neutral position
on it's own. Now if you make that turn and
it doesn't come back towards the neutral position
than that's a dead giveaway that you have
a bad rack and pinion. Alright so we are going
to make our right turn, now I am going to
let go and see how it's starting to come back,
now if it was just stuck on the right side
and I had to manually straighten it out than
that was a dead giveaway that the rack and
pinion is shot and needs to be replaced. Now
there is a chance that the high pressure line
that goes from your power steering pump to
your rack and pinion could be clogged and
causing you to have issues as well, but that
line and your rack and pinion, whenever you
replace one or the other you should replace
the other one as well. Because what happens
is that when the power steering fluid comes
out of your steering pump and enters that
pressure line and than goes to your power
steering rack and pinion the power steering
fluid is under a lot of pressure, in fact
maybe a 1000 psi or more. Now what happens
is that overtime when that pressure line wares
out and deteriorates the material from that
line ends up inside your rack and pinion,
and inside your rack and pinion you have way
more than the seals on the ends of it where
your inner tie rods go and when those seals
go bad you pretty much need a rack and pinion.
And in fact most manufacturers will require
you to buy that pressure line when you replace
your rack and pinion otherwise they won't
guarantee their rack and pinion. Alright so
let me explain it on the white board so hopefully
you guys have an easier time understanding.
Basically we'll start at the fluid reservoir,
fluid from here goes to your power steering
pump, from here your pump pumps it out at
1000 psi or more to your rack and pinion,
and once you use it up it goes through the
return line to your power steering fluid reservoir.
Pretty nice and easy, now if you can get your
hands on a power steering gauge set you can
put a gauge after your power steering pump
and if the psi of pressure that's coming out
of your power steering pump is up to specification
but you are still having noise than that could
indicate a problem with the pressure line
and the rack and pinion. But that pressure
gauge set is something a mechanic would have
and most do it yourselfer's are not going
to be able to afford a good one or even borrow
it from their local auto parts store. Now
as far as where you can look for leaks, again
these lines all of them could leak, your power
steering pressure line could obviously leak
through the pressure line because it's under
so much pressure, and again the seals at the
end of your rack and pinion. And also you
should pay special attention to the clamps
that attach these this return line and this
fluid supply line to your power steering pump,
and if you have a bad power steering pump
you could have a leak from the bearings or
where the shaft goes through your power steering
pump as well. Also I should mention that whenever
you replace a component of your power steering
system you need to flush the old power steering
fluid out of there and replace it with new
one, and in fact I have a video on how you
can do that exactly and I'll put a link to
that video along with some other related video's
on this side of the screen that you can click
on there will also be links in the description
box down bellow as well. So with that said
hope this video helps you out, and if it did
please give it a thumbs up, subscribe if you
want to see more like it and I'll see you
next time. Thanks for watching.
How to adjust timing - 350 Chevy small-block | Hagerty DIY
Hagerty:
- Hi, I'm Kyle Smith with Hagerty.
Today we are going to
be adjusting a timing
on a 350 Chevy small block
that happens to be in this
1972 Chevrolet pick up.
So today we just need
a couple simple tools,
one will be a standard
9/16 open inch wrench,
and the other is our one specialty tool
that we've needed and that
will be our timing light.
And then of course the
wires associated to it.
And we'll go into how to use
this one here in just a moment.
There's a couple reasons you might need to
reset the timing on a give an engine.
The first is if you've recently
disassembled the engine
or remove the distributor.
You want to make sure
everything is back in sync
prior to starting it for the first time,
or even starting it for the
first time in a long time.
The second being if you've
made changes to the distributor
or the overall engine set up,
such as changing the fuel
that the engine will run on
or going from a point style ignition
to an electronic ignition style set up.
On this engine that were working on today
it is an HEI ignition so it
is an electronic ignition
so we're not dealing with
points or the well set up today.
So, there's two safety considerations
that I'll be taking in today.
One, I will be wearing safety glasses
just in case something were to fly off
of the engine while it's running.
The second is I have to be
mindful of the mechanical fan.
This does have a standard metal flex fan
and for me to get my hand caught in that
would be a very bad day.
If you have electric fans you
still need to be cautious,
but less so, most of those
are fairly well guarded,
but it's just something
we need to keep in mind.
So we'll go ahead and
remove the air cleaner
just to make it a little bit easier,
both for me to reach the distributor,
and for you to see what I'm doing today.
So this is a fairly fresh
restoration that we're working on
and when we put the
engine in the truck and
we got everything initially set up
we set on the safe side
which is slightly retarded
so it should start, and run, but
it's probably going to
run a little bit rough.
We'll go ahead and fire
it up and let you guys
hear what it sounds like now that it's
running just a little bit retarded.
(engine rumbing)
So you can hear this one, it's
missing just a slight bit.
It's running just a little bit rougher
than it truly needs to.
As we get the timer closer and closer
to where it needs to be, it's going to run
smoother and smoother, have
a lot better idle to it.
So at step one here and the first thing
that we're going to do is
actually remove something,
and that is the vacuum advance,
so you can see here
where the vacuum advance
is located on the side of the distributor.
There can be many different styles
but what it comes down to,
is there should only be one
vacuum line running to the distributor,
so it will be very easy to spot.
So you'll see it's a small vacuum hose
that goes to a port on the carburetor,
you want to remove this and plug the line
so that we don't have a vacuum leak
going into the carburetor.
The reason we want to
remove the vacuum advance
is so that we don't have
any mechanical advance
or vacuum advance taking
the distributor over
while we're trying to
set that base timing.
The vacuum advanced functions
while the engine's at higher RPM,
or when you lay into the
pedal as you're driving,
gives it just a little more
advance so it's peppier.
Our next step, or our
second step in this process,
we're actually going to
take our 9/16 wrench,
we're going to loosen
the distributor hold down
that's tucked right here at
the base of the distributor.
Most standard Chevy small blocks
are going to have the
same 9/16 size wrench.
I'm not sure of exactly what it is on Ford
so check your service manual and
make sure you've got the correct one.
This is the last bolt you want
to round off on an engine.
As you loosen it up, you'll
want it to where the distributor
still holds tight while it's running,
but you'll want to be able to move it
just a little bit by hand.
So you can see as I'm
moving that back and forth,
it's still holding in it's place,
it's not fully rotating, but
it allows me to move that.
Step number three brings
in our first specialty tool
and that is our timing light.
So there's three connections
that we need to make
on this one so it will do it's job.
The first one is going to
be this inductive pick up
which senses when there
is power going through
the number one spark plug wire.
So on a small block Chevrolet,
on the driver's side, all the
way to the front of the engine
is going to be cylinder number one.
This is the odd numbers and
those are the even numbers.
So we'll mark cylinder
number one spark plug wire
and put the inductive pick up on there,
and then we have to power the timing light
with our standard two leads,
so we will go the negative terminal
and the positive terminal on the battery.
So there are many different timing lights
available for sale.
This one does have the
option that you can adjust
exactly where you want the timing to be,
and then you adjust so the timing marks
line up at zero degrees.
I prefer to use this marked to zero,
so it's just flashing exactly when
the spark is going through
that spark plug wire,
and then I use the marks on the engine.
It really depends on how
your engine is set up,
or what your preference is, there's many
different ways to do it,
this is just my method.
So what we are actually going to be using
to time the engine is these
teeth marks right here
that come off of the timing chain cover,
and then there will be a mark on our
harmonic balancer or
the main engine pulley.
As the timing light flashes with the spark
going to the number one cylinder,
it's going to show where the mark is
on the harmonic balancer
against those marks
coming off the timing cover.
Those marks are going to tell us
exactly where the timing is set.
So whether it be 10 degrees before or
advanced or after or retarded,
we'll be able to rotate the distributor
to adjust where that mark is hitting,
where that spark is
arriving in the cylinder.
(engine roaring)
So what I was adjusting that to
and our actual timing marks,
I wanted about 12 degrees
before top dead center
or 12 degrees advanced.
We were looking at the
timing marks coming off
of that timing cover to
the marks on the balancer
and you can hear the engine
smoothed out significantly,
just by bringing that
into where it needs to be.
Look it up in your factory service manual
where you need to adjust it to
or consult a professional engine builder
if it's a custom application.
At this point you might
be thinking to yourself,
"Why is timing so
important and shouldn't I
"just go one direction over the other?
"Or even, why don't I just
align it at straight up
"to where the spark is
arriving at top dead center."
Now there's a couple things
to discuss with that.
So when were looking
at it too far advanced
or too far retarded for when
the cylinder is getting a spark
can both have negative consequences.
One, however, is worse than the other.
If you retard the spark too much,
the engine will struggle to
run, even if it runs at all,
and that's simply because the piston
is already on its way down
through the combustion stroke,
when that cylinder is being ignited.
That means it does not have
sufficient time to burn
all the air and fuel, it's
not maximizing the potential
of that compressed air and fuel.
On the opposite side, if you
have it too far advanced,
what's happening is, you are detonating
all of the compressed air and fuel
before the piston has
reached top dead center
and that means essentially, the engine
is now fighting itself, it's a quick way
to end up with holes in pistons or
some really nasty cylinder heads,
especially if you have aluminum heads.
Something to be cautious
of, because often times
you need to run on the advanced side
for a smooth running engine, but too much,
is very much dangerous.
So now we're going to go ahead and
disconnect our timing
light and then we will
tighten down the hold
down for the distributor
and reconnect our vacuum advance,
and then we'll see how it runs.
(engine rumbling)
Looks like we've got it
running nice and good,
idling nice and smooth.
If you have any questions,
please leave them
in the comments below, and
if you like what you saw,
please subscribe to our channel.
1969 Chevrolet Camaro | Buyer's Guide
Hagerty:
BEST way to remove airlock in radiator (remove air bubbles)
Error Code Guy:
Getting the air out of the coolant has
always been a challenge until I found
this tool.
Ok, one of the more difficult jobs that I
find is getting air out of the system. So
I have found this really cool tool that
does a terrific job. So you go ahead and
put the radiator cap on, and put the
funnel on top. I usually use a t-shirt to
kind of catch all this dirt and
debris, and you can kind of see some of
that stuff floating in there. We're
going to catch that before it gets into
the system. So we're going to kind of
fast forward the film a little bit and let
it go down. Then we're going to go
ahead and put some fresh coolant on
there to kind of top off the system.
Go ahead and start the car and we're
going to start to get the air out. See
the air how it pops out? It's because the
fluid is higher than the rest of the
system that it works. Now go ahead and cap it.
Now we're going to pour this new stuff
back in for another day.
Now that makes a difficult job easy. If
you find this useful please like or
subscribe.
How to Diagnose a Noisy Wheel Hub and Bearing
AutoEclinic:
Hey guys. Hey Chris! How ya doing? aaron, how ya doing?
Got this car from my grandpa and drove it all the way from New York. By the time I made it to North Carolina I heard this loud roaring noise coming from my drivers side front wheel.
When diagnosing a wheel bearing you want to swerve slightly to the right and then to the left
u are going to load the left side of the car. as you swerve to the left you are going to load the right side of the car.
When you laod the wheel bearing you are putting more weight, on that side. so if i swerve to the right and i hear a noise it could be coming from the driver side.
If I swerve to the left and hear a noise it could be coming from the passenger side.
this is how you diagnose a wheel bearing.
on this car we hear it get worse as we swerve to the right. So we know its the drivers front wheel bearing.
to confirm our diagnosis of the left front wheel bearing we want to check it for any kind of play.
typically we should not have any kind of play in the wheel bearing
youre right mike, lets check the horizontal axis and vertical axis. looks like some play there.
That helps in confirming our diagnosis of a bad left front whhel bearing.
you are right, lets take the wheel off and do a visual inspection.
since the wheel bearing is a sealed assembly, visually we ant tell if it is bad or not. you are exactly right but
We did notice that the cv boot was torn. What this will do is will allow water and dirt to contaminate the joint
It will cause it to fail. If we can get the approval on the wheel bearing we can go ahead and replace the axle while we are there and save the customer quite a bit of money on the labor
lets go find chris and tell him whats going on.
hey guys, what did you find out for me?
we did confirm the nosie you heard was coming from the left front wheel bearing
but also during the visual inspection we found your left axle boot to be busted.
gonna be cheaper chris to go ahead let us replace the axle while we replace the bearing.
we can save you some money on labor.
makes sense guys!
I really appreciate your help and diagnosis.
to recap on the diagnostics
tuen to the right you load the left side,
turn to the left you load the right side
the side with the load that makes the noise is mor in likley going to be the bad side,
now dont get this confused with a tire noise, a tire noise
will typicallly not change from side to side.
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