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2019 Chevrolet Silverado - Review & Road Test

Kelley Blue Book:

When Chevrolet first revealed their
fourth-generation full-size Silverado
they dangled it from a helicopter onto a
massive stage.
Hey, our reveal is just as extravagant.
Okay so maybe we need more helicopter
budget, but we're on dirt and those used to be pine trees. So here it is the
fourth-generation Chevy Silverado.
Okay, I can't.
You know I'm not sure this looks that
different from the previous model. There
are four grille options, this is one of
them and it's bigger and beefier than
the previous generation, but other than
that it looks pretty much like a
Silverado. It does have a steeper
windshield and adds a roof spoiler for
better aerodynamics, but also rides an
inch higher than the third generation.
Thanks to its new bigness the second row
in the crew cab expanded. There are three
more inches back here of space for your
legs, but if you prefer to haul stuff
inside the 60/40 seats fold up. There are
a lot of cool storage spaces.
Check out that cubby. It's pretty neat.
This is bigger than some apartments I've
lived in.
Bed size also benefits from the
Silverado's expansion to the tune of
seven inches of width thanks to GM now
stamping the beds into pieces. It's also
stronger, which is a good thing for tough
payload.
Even the 12 standard tie-down loops are
stronger, and there's an optional power
tailgate, which we think is cool. The
Silverado comes in eight models. The Work Truck
comes with vinyl or cloth seats
and 17-inch wheels, remote keyless entry,
a USB port, seven-inch touchscreen and
Chevrolet's Infotainment 3 system with
Apple CarPlay and Android Audo. Optional
safety features include front and rear
parking assist, lane change alerts with
blind zone warnings, and rear
cross-traffic alerts. Those are some good
options for a base model truck. The
Custom trim adds 20-inch aluminum wheels
and LED tail lights. The Trail Boss adds
a 2-inch lift and the optional Z71
off-road package, which of course
requires four-wheel-drive and includes a
locking rear differential, skid plates,
and 18-inch Goodyear Duratrack tires
for off-roading. Step up to the LT trim
and there's the aforementioned
optional off-road equipment, an
eight-inch touchscreen comes standard as
well as a step up to the 8-speed
automatic transmission from the 6-speed
in lower trims. Hill descent control is
also a good option for when you're
coming down from all those mountains
you're driving over. The LT Trail Boss
includes the off-road capabilities of
the custom Trail Boss. Looking for a
sporty or Silverado the RST trim
includes body coloured exterior trim LED
lighting and 22s.
This high country is at the top of the
Silverado trim mountain, and it is swank
at the summit. Everything is covered in
leather and it's pretty comfy in here in
a truckie kind of way. Both front seats
are heated and ventilated and the
driver's side has 10-way power
adjustment including lumbar. Micah!
It's wireless charging capable and the
storage in the center console is so big
you could probably fit a whole bucket of
fried chicken in there.The Bose audio
system is awesome, you know what, if I
went camping I would probably just stay
in here. Six powertrain choices are
offered on the Silverado. Those larger
two are new options and include GM's new
dynamic fuel management system which is
able to use as few as two cylinders
cutting fuel to the rest for improved
fuel economy. The diesel option is new too. Some EPA numbers weren't available for
various power trains at the time of this
videos making, but here are those that
are.
The 4.3-liter V6 offers up 285
hp and 305 pound-feet of torque.
The 6.2-liter V8, which is in this High
Country crew cab I'm driving has 420
horses and 460 pound-feet of torque. With
a curb weight of 5,000 pounds, a payload
capacity of a little over 2,100 pounds,
and towing capabilities of 12,000 pounds
I'd say that power is going to come in
really handy. That's cute.
Incidentally that's less towing capacity
than a similarly powered Ford F-150 but
more than the RAM 1500 and the same as
the GMC Sierra, which makes sense because
they share power trains. But how does it
drive I hear you ask? You know what? I
have a really good way to find out. Why
thank you.
On the road the Silverado feels sturdy
and solid but surprisingly un-trucky. It
actually drives like a much smaller
vehicle. That might be thanks to Chevy
shaving off up to 450
pounds depending on which Silverado you
drive. The Silverado makes easy work of
curvy mountain roads and is maneuverable
enough to not get you in too much
trouble when parking in relatively tight
spots. The High Country's more refined
road manners are partly due to a 10-
speed automatic transmission with which
it is equipped. Shifts are quick and
smooth. It's tight ratios keep the engine
closer to peak power when at full
throttle. It also makes for easier
operation when towing. It's too bad this
transmission is only an option on the LT
trim and above with the diesel or 6.2-
liter engine. The cabin is quiet. I don't
hear the road and there's no notable
vibration or noise coming from the
engine when that DFM system is doing its
thing. You know if someone was looking
for a midsize crossover alternative with
more utility and towing capacity then
the Silverado drives nicely enough that
it should be considered an option.
Base price on the Work Truck will cost
you around $31,200 including
destination. Our tricked-out High Country,
which is at the top of the spending
spectrum is more like $67,000. This one
also has the Deluxe package that
includes safety features like forward
collision alert, lane keep assist with
lane departure warning, low speed forward
automatic braking. It also has a sunroof,
all-season tires, as well as the Tech
package that gives us the surround
vision camera and head-up display. Those
safety features come in handy especially
in a big truck like this. Sometimes
little things like Miatas or cyclists
are really hard to see. You know, I kind of
feel like the blind spot warning is
pretty much on all the time in this
thing.
The purchasing sweet spot though is
probably the LT trim that starts at just
under 40 large and comes standard with
the 5.3-liter engine and the 8-speed
transmission, but is optional with the
diesel engine mated to the 10-speed. It
also opens up more optional packages
that include tilting and telescoping
steering wheel and navigation. If you're
in the market for a full-size truck the
fourth-generation Silverado has a lot of
competition to check out including the
F-150, Sierra, Ram 1500 and even the
Nissan Titan and Toyota Tundra,
but the Silverado has a lot of great
qualities to consider. It's well equipped,
nicely powered and a good-looking truck
that rides nicely on the road. See no
splashy helicopter entrance necessary.

Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive

WeberAuto:

Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching

Is the 2019 Chevrolet Silverado the Best Silverado Ever? | First Drive | Edmunds

Edmunds:

TRAVIS LANGNESS:
Welcome to Wyoming.
I'm Travis Langness
for Edmunds.com,
and this is the all-new
2019 Chevrolet Silverado.
Basically, it's redesigned from
the ground up, from the frame,
to the body, to the powertrains.
It's bigger.
It's longer.
It's wider.
But we want to know if it's
the best Silverado Chevy's ever
made, so we're going to
take it out for a drive.

So we're in the
mountains in Wyoming
and we're driving around
in the new Silverado 1500.
And really, this feels
like an updated Silverado.
It doesn't feel
completely redesigned.
It feels really familiar.
So what's changed
about the Silverado?
The frame is built using
different materials.
It's a longer wheelbase.
It's longer from nose to
tail by almost two inches.
Pretty much all of the towing
improvements across the board
for the Silverado
come from the fact
that the truck is
450 pounds lighter
than the previous generation.
Now, that's coming
from differences
in steel, the aluminum hood,
aluminum tailgate, aluminum
doors, differences in
the strength of steel
in the chassis.
They took 80 pounds out
of the frame, another
80 pounds out of the
bed of the truck,
so instead of one
stamping, they've
used three different
pieces, which
also makes the bed of the truck
as much as seven inches wider
in the bed.
And also, you're looking
at the first up and down
power tailgate in
any full-size truck.
Kind of a no-brainer
on trucks these days.
Everybody's using a
power lift gate in SUVs.
Why haven't we
done it on a truck?
Under the hood is
the 5.3 liter V8.
Now, people from the last
generation Silverado,
if you own one of those, you'll
think, oh, so same engine.
Well, yes and no.
There is a 5.3 available with
the old six-speed automatic
transmission, but
the one we're driving
has the new
eight-speed automatic.
And it's the updated version
of that 5.3 liter V8.
So basically, what you get is
a different fuel management
system that Chevy says
will increase fuel economy.
And it-- for my
butt [? dyno-- ?]
hasn't changed the way the truck
drives much, which is good.
Gives you good power uphill,
gives you a good burst
as you're going
to pass somebody.
But what has changed
with the eight-speed
is it's quiet in here.
There's several
other power trains.
So you can get a diesel.
You can get the base V6.
You can get this V8 or
the six-speed transmission
with the older version of the
V8, different fuel management.
And you can get the 6.2 liter,
as well as that turbo four
cylinder.
If you don't need as much
towing or hauling capability,
that turbo four cylinder,
that may be the motor for you.
For me, I'd probably go
with the 5.3 or the 6.2.
They feel a little bit better,
have a little bit more thrust.
We don't have the
optional 22-inch wheels
on this truck, which
is absolutely something
I would avoid, because with
the standard wheel and tire
package, ride comfort's
great in this.
These seats are not the
high-end leather seats.
They're cloth, and
they feel great.
Going up a mountain road,
they feel just fine.
The split heating
function works great.
And really, if you're going to
go on a 1600 mile road trip,
tow a trailer, and take
your family on vacation,
this is an easy place to do it.
Also, this center
console comes up.
Take it up real quick, so
you can have a third person
up front sitting here.
Chevy did say that
the drag has changed.
As their dynamics
have gotten better,
drag has decreased with
the front end redesign.
And that's a small marginal
increase in fuel economy,
along with what will probably
be marginal increases
from the eight-speed automatic.
This one is, I believe,
19 MPG combined
with the 5.3 and
the eight-speed.
Along these roads-- they're
not perfect, obviously,
these aren't highly maintained
city roads-- the Silverado
feels really good.
It's not a bouncy ride quality.
Big sharp impacts aren't
really making their way
into the cabin.
Everything feels pretty
well-insulated from underneath,
especially when you've
got a good amount of tire
sidewall, which this truck has.
There's not a lot of body roll.
If you're worried about ride
quality on a pickup truck,
this one is doing just fine.

So this is the interior
of the new Silverado.
It's not so much a redesign
as much as it is an evolution.
For starters, we'll go with
this big monolith of a center
console.
This is just one giant piece.
It's not as high-content
as it could be.
We're in kind of a mid
trim level, something
that's a little bit
more typical for buyers.
And basically, you've got
auto stop start function.
You can put the
tailgate down here.
Traction control.
A nice little button that
puts all four windows down
at the same time.
There's a couple
of buttons missing.
There are some things that we
could have on this interior.
There's no plug here, but
on the higher trim levels
you do get that full
three-prong plug.
We've got one
USBC, one USB port.
It's got Apple
CarPlay, Android Auto.
And it's got a really
crisp look to it.
This one is the same size
as the previous generation,
but it's a little
bit nicer looking.
It's a little bit crisper.
Graphics, it's
really easy to read.
You've got the swipe from
one side, swipe to the other.
You can control most of
the stuff happening here.
The steering wheel
is much the same.
The TFT, the center
driver display here,
is a little bit better,
and everything is easier
to see at a moment's
glance when you're
looking down from the road.
Super helpful when
you're towing or hauling
and you just want to
spot your temperature
or spot your oil pressure.
It's definitely a good display.
And then Chevy has moved
over here some of the stuff
that you use for towing,
to the left of the driver.
There's a little
toggle here that you
can change between
sport mode or they've
got a little dynamic
racecar flag, and tow mode--
changes the shift
schedules, things like that.
Then you've got the
selector between
two-wheel and four-wheel drive.
You've got the terrain
selector to tell the truck
if you want hill descent control
if you're on rock or sand.
Then you've got the
controls for the lights,
and most of the
stuff over there.
And pretty much,
this is what you
get inside the interior
of all the Silverados,
and it's a really
intuitive layout.
It's not fancy.
It's a lot of new stuff, but not
a completely different design
that you have to get
used to something new.
Now, with that said,
this mid-level content
does have some plastic
materials that aren't awesome,
but really the touch points,
those things are good.
They feel sturdy.
One of the nice things
that GM has, Chevy as well,
is these split
level seat heating.
So you can heat just your back,
or your back and your butt.
Heating just your back is
perfect for long road trips.
Anybody with back pain
should demand this feature
be put in every car.
It makes the seating so
much more comfortable.
It's fantastic.
Overall, this interior
is a likeable place,
and definitely somewhere
I can see myself sitting
for a long time on a road trip.
So now we're in the
backseat of the Silverado
and it's huge back here.
There is an additional three
inches of rear leg room.
The truck itself is only 1.7
inches longer, nose to tail,
but they put a lot of that,
and then some, into the rear.
So four adults can sit totally
comfortably, probably a fifth,
maybe even a sixth when
you get that third seat up
in the front.
But if you've got
four six-footers,
there's tons of space
back here for everybody.
And it's pretty simple,
pretty standard back here.
A couple of USB ports, couple
of vents, which is nice.
Keeps the air flowing back here.
These seats are similarly firm
to the center seat up front.
But it's a 60/40
split back here.
And it's really easy
to fold these up.
So this one just
quick up, quick down.
There's no straps to pull on.
No handles.
And then also, there's some
pretty cool features back here.
This is typical, the center
console with the cup holders,
not new in any way.
But then this side seat
opens up and you have access
to behind the seat.
And the seat materials are
similarly nice to the front,
that same checkerboard pattern.
Pretty flat across the
bottom and the back.
There's not a lot of
bolstering back here,
but the cushioning is good.
This angle's not too bad.
It'd be nice if it were a
little bit further slanted back,
but it's decent for a road trip.

So we've spent all day driving
the new 2019 Silverado.
And basically, what
we've discovered
is that Chevy has taken a good
product and made it better.
This new truck is more capable.
It's more quiet on the inside.
There's more space
in the back seat.
You can tow more.
And there's that
wide array of engines
that we talked about,
which will make
it more economical and better
towing in the long run.
It generally feels
like a good refresh,
but they've added some
good updates to it.
But if you're
asking the question
is it the best Silverado that
Chevy has ever made, well sure,
but only by a small margin.
For more videos like
this, go to edmunds.com
and be sure to subscribe
to our YouTube channel.

2018 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 Model Review | Edmunds

Edmunds:

[MUSIC PLAYING]
CARLOS LAGO: That's the
new Chevy Camaro ZL1,
and in this video we're going to
give you an overview about what
makes it special.
And the quick version is, it's
more than the 650 horsepower
underneath that hood.

You might be surprised to
hear that the coolest parts
about the Camaro
ZL1 are actually
the stuff you can't see.
The exterior doesn't look
dramatically different
than the standard
Camaro SS or RS models.
You can tell the
ZL1 is different
because it has big exhaust pipes
and a ZL1 badge at the back.
But over on the side, as
we get to the profile,
it retains the shape that we
know to love the Camaros by.
The wheels are bigger, they're
20 inches front and rear,
but they're a staggered
fitment, so the front tires
are a little bit
smaller than the rear.
And that gives it a
nice purposeful look.
But it's the stuff
underneath here
that really makes the car
drive as good as it does.
You have magnetic
fluid-filled dampers
that react super quick, more
so than your traditional motor
controlled dampers when you're
making adjustments on the fly.
You have an electronically
controlled limited slip
differential that continually
biases power left or right,
controls it with a
granularity you can't achieve
with a simple mechanical unit.
Up at the front you
see the big differences
that come with the ZL1.
Up on the hood here, of course,
is the badging and the carbon
fiber dome of the hood.
And there's actually
a heat extractor right
through the bottom there.
You can fit your
hand in, we'll show
you the vents in just a second.
But when we were
talking about making
650 horsepower, what we
really had to pay attention to
is cooling.
This is the same engine that's
in the Chevy Corvette Z06.
And in here, you can
tell the front fascia
is dramatically different,
and it's much larger.
And there's all these
gigantic air openings.
And that's because
this needs a lot of air
to go through it
to keep it cool.
You have heat
exchangers here, here,
here, here, there's
inner coolers
underneath the supercharger,
there's another heat exchanger
lying flat.
And all of this is designed
to get as much airflow
through the front of
the vehicle as possible.
I mean even the Chevy Badge,
you can stick your finger right
through it.
These gaping holes
right here, I mean,
you can imagine what happens if
a small animal flies in there.
It's all made in the name of
getting air through this engine
to keep it cool
under heavy use when
you're making all that power.
Now, let's take a
look at that engine.

Feast your eyes on the glory
of a supercharged 6.2 liter
V8 that makes 650 horsepower,
and 650 pound feet of torque.
This is, frankly, a
hell of an engine.
It doesn't rev that
high, 6,500 RPM.
Actually that's pretty
decent for a pushrod V8,
but really the story is
the breadth of that power.
But also consider it's
a fairly compact engine.
And it can be compact because
that supercharger, this guy
right here, isn't as big as the
last generation supercharged V8
that the previous ZL1 used and
the previous Corvette used.
Now and also the nature
of a pushrod motor
is, because it doesn't
have two overhead cams,
there's not a lot of valvetrain
up here, so it can be short.
And that can help
with visibility.
But as you'll see when
we hop inside this car,
the visibility isn't
really quite there.
And we showed you
the heat extractors
that come through here.
They're functional, you can
stick your hand right up
in there.
And the goal of that is to
promote air flow out of here
to keep pulling air through
the front end of the vehicle
to cool it down.
Let's take a look inside.
Well the first
thing you gotta do
when you slip into the interior
of a Camaro ZL1 is fire it up.
So that's how you
set things off right.
Now, couple of things
you have to accept
with the interior
of the Chevy Camaro,
especially this generation.
There is no interior storage.
You have a couple of pockets
on the left and right.
There's some space
in the armrest.
But there's basically
nothing for anything
bigger than a phone.
Even my phone has difficulty
fitting in the center armrest.
Also, rear visibility
comes up short.
It's like looking out
of a cardboard box.
But at least if you
don't want to sit low
you can raise the height up.
And that certainly helps your
view over the hood and just
at a point, there you go.
If you're concerned about
looking forward over the hood,
you can always do that.
OK now we're back
to normal height.
ZL1 specific changes
are few, but are nice.
These seats are Recaros,
they're nice buckets
with good amounts
of lateral support
but they don't
feel uncomfortable.
The material they're
wrapped with,
and especially the stuff
on the steering wheel too,
is this microfiber
suede-like substance.
It's also on the dash.
It looks and feels nice.
This is, of course,
the 10 speed automatic.
And we'll talk about how that
works once we take it out
for a drive.
For now though, it
just looks and works
like a normal
automatic transmission.
Behind it, these
controls here are
what get us into sort of the
electronic sophistication
you'll find in the ZL1.
You have four
different drive modes,
there's tube or track, sport,
and snow and ice modes.
Now those adjust a
variety of settings,
but within those settings
are further adjustments.
For example, when you go
into track like we are now,
you can double tap the
stability control button
and access the performance
traction management function.
Now this is a multi-configurable
stability control setting
that has one, two, three,
four, five different levels
of adjustment.
And you can also turn
everything completely off.
We'll talk about launch
control, too, and a line lock.
This has both those tools which
are great for drag racers.
And it speaks to the
legacy level of intent
that Chevy knows
Camaro owners are
going to use these cars for.
The ZL1 doesn't do any
one thing particularly.
It's not focused on
just doing one job,
it's focused on being
able to do everything.
It wants to ride
comfortably on your commute.
It wants to be able to tackle
a mountain road or a racetrack.
And it wants to
be able to get you
through a night
at the dragstrip.
And all that stuff
comes together nicely
in this package.
Now this display, as we get back
into more traditional Camaro
grievances, this
display looks funky.
It looks like it's tilted in.
Although when you start
using it, you realize
it's super intuitive.
It also supports Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto,
and that's really nice.
In front of you, you
have two analog gauges
and in the center is
a digital display.
That's multi-configurable
and shows
you a lot of really
nice information.
And above that is
a head up display.
As we dive into the
dash, we'll explain
how some of the drag racing
focused technology works.
I'll put the car in
its track setting,
and then I'll turn the
advance stability control
system to sport, for example.
And what you can
do here is you can
define the amount of traction
the surface that you're
driving on has.
So if you're in sport
one or sport two,
it assumes you're
on a street surface.
But if you go up
to race, it assumes
you're on a drag strip that
has a prepared surface, that
has the traction of
a prepared surface.
So it'll actually account
for all that stuff.
When you go into
the launch control,
you can set custom parameters.
There's an automatic
function, but you can also
set manually your target
RPM, your slip target--
and that slip target is
how much the rear tires
rotate versus how fast you go.
Tires like to spin a little bit
faster than you would think.
They like to have a
little bit of slip
to get the best
launch out of them.
And you can actually define
the percentage of slip
that you want the
rear tires to have.
Which is nuts.
And then beneath that
you have a line lock.
And now what a line lock does,
is it holds the front brakes
but allows the rear tires
to spin freely, which
makes a burn out a lot easier.
I'm in the school of thought
that if you have 650 pound
feet, a burnout's
pretty easy to do,
but it's nice that
the feature's there.
And this is a level
of granularity
for a drag racing that I
haven't seen in a production car
outside of the Dodge Demon.
And it's really cool, because
this car, again, is just
sort of an all-arounder.
Now up next we'll show
you what that means
when we drive it on the street.
Driving on the congested
and Toyota Prius
filled streets of LA may
not be the most exciting way
to experience the Camaro
ZL1, but it does give us
the opportunity to illustrate
just how nice this car is
to drive in general.
Sure the ride's firm, sure
you get some road noise,
but it's nothing that would
make this car difficult to live
with.
This 10 speed automatic
transmission, you might think,
wow that's a lot of gears.
I'm going to constantly see
the tack bouncing around
as it shifts.
But you don't.
You barely notice when
the shifts happen.
And the way they've
tuned this transmission
so it can skip gears
when you step on it
makes for a really
nice experience.

What's funny is
when you really see
a gap, when you nail that gas
it's almost as if the car has
night terrors.
Because suddenly it starts
growling out of nowhere
and making all these
noises and screaming.
And then it gets
really silent again.
It gets really quiet.
It just seems to get more
aggressive the more you drive
it in an aggressive manner.
But of course LA
traffic is the worst.
So we're going to go to a
place where we can explore
the abilities of this car.
[MUSIC PLAYING]

There's just so much power.
The performance of this
vehicle is just incredible.
But it's the tractability
that makes it so dominating.
It just feels so good,
feels so much fun.
This is a large, heavy car,
with pretty poor visibility.
But it just comes into its
own in this environment.
It's so much fun.
Modulating the power and
controlling the Camaro,
got to love that sound.
Get a little sideways.
So even though the
stability control is on,
it still gives you
a bit of freedom
with how much
sideways you get when
you dig into that throttle.
And there's so much
power on tap here.
We have 650 horsepower.
I'm getting a
little bit too close
to the limits of the
stability control system.
I'm feeling it grab
me a little bit more.
But what that's doing
is it's telling me
I'm applying too much throttle.
You can use this system
like a driver's tool.
You can lean on it and
use it the wrong way,
and have it try to fix
your sloppy mistakes.
But you can also
pay attention to it,
pay attention to when
it's cutting the power
and how much power
it's giving you,
and you can dial back
your choice accordingly.

Now what's working
in conjunction
there is the stability control
and electronically controlled
limited slip differential.
Which is biasing power
as it deems appropriate,
based on whatever the vehicle
sensors are telling it.
That's really nice.
And we haven't even talked
about the brakes yet.
These brakes provide
very good stopping power
and have a nice long travel.
So you can dig in to it
without using too much force,
and get the right amount
braking force that you want.

I like this car a lot.
Listen to that.
[ENGINE REVVING]

And that's the
amazing Camaro ZL1.
You want to see more videos like
this, keep it tuned right here.
And be sure to
visit edmunds.com.

2019 Chevrolet Silverado | Who's the Boss? | TestDriveNow

Steve Hammes New Car Reviews:

There’s never been a better time if you’re
in the market for off-road pickup truck.
Available in a wide range of sizes and prices
there something out there to fit just about
every need.
And now Chevy is providing their own version
of go anywhere power with the all new Silverado
Trail boss.
So here’s the Silverado primer: the box
holds more, thanks to a widening of the bed
floor by nearly 7”.
The use of mixed metals and advanced manufacturing
processes has cut weight – 450 pounds to
be exact.
And the V8 uses a new version of cylinder
deactivation that can shut down any number
of pots to optimize fuel economy.
This all-new Silverado is also bigger in virtually
every measure than the outgoing model, including
an additional 3” in cab length producing
enormous rear seat legroom.
Plus, it offers the most cargo volume on the
market regardless of bed size.
One of Chevy’s goals was to create 8 distinct
models, each with a unique personality.
They’re divided into three trim levels:
High Value, High Volume and High Feature.
This new LT Trail Boss is positioned at the
top of the High Volume grouping and pairs
a 2” suspension lift with the Z71 Off Road
Package – now with a real badge of its own.
That means this truck clears nearly 11”and
includes an automatic locking rear differential,
skid plates, Rancho shocks and 18” wheels
with Goodyear Duratrac off-road tires.
If you can’t recognize a Trail Boss by its
2” lift, just look for these red recovery
hooks up front; they’re the only Silverados
that get them.
These off-road assist steps are an $895 option
but don’t skip them; most people are going
to need them to climb on in.
And though they’re built tough we still
removed them before hitting the trail.
Out here, with mud, deep water, rocks and
shale, the Trail Boss always felt invincible.
Just as it is on-road, the suspension does
a heroic job of keeping the occupants in a
quiet cocoon free of excessive jounce and
head sway.
The Goodyears have an insatiable appetite
for abuse and the push button 4-wheel drive
system with a full automatic mode makes transfer
case changes easy.
Even up this very steep and slippery hill,
the Silverado never felt anything but boss.
And the hill decent control is the quietest
such system I’ve ever tested.
These expansive all-weather floor liners with
the Z71 logo are the perfect match for a muddy
day of 4-wheeling.
Driving the Trail Boss in its native habitat
just feels right.
On this all-new Silverado, Chevy has created
an industry-first trailering label they place
right here on the driver’s side door jamb.
It helps owners properly calculate their truck’s
specific capacities.
12,100 pounds max towing is aided by the optional
Advanced Trailering Package, with Hitch Guidance
built into the backup cam and a trailer tire
pressure and temperature monitoring system.
But does it have the super easy Pro Trailer
Backup Assist that Ford has?
No.
No doubt that this is one of the most impressive
trucks I’ve ever driven.
With this Silverado, GM has really reclaimed
its leadership role in the driving department.
More so than ever before, this truck drives
with the precision, fluidity and smoothness
of a luxury sedan…and that’s in a Trail
Boss model!
Most impressive are the steering and braking
systems – no truck-like mushiness or slop
– just dialed-in control.
Now as trucks become a one-vehicle solution,
Chevy has really delivered with this do-it-all
Silverado.
Its 2 biggest downsides are 1) its miserable
fuel economy and 2) the chore involved with
parking it.
But this Trail Boss really hits the sweet
spot of on-road, off-road, features and pricing.
It is a very impressive truck.
The 355 horsepower 5.3-liter V8 produces 383
pound feet of torque and matches beautifully
to the 8-speed automatic which includes a
Sport mode.
It’s quick, it sounds good and it includes
auto stop-start to help save gas.
But for the week, I haven’t been able to
get out of the 14s even though it’s rated
at 15mpg city/20mpg highway.
There is a lower level Trail Boss model called
the Custom that comes standard with a V6 if
these numbers scare you.
This is the huge backseat Crew Cab bodystyle
with the short bed but other Trail Boss configurations
are available.
Pricing for this LT model starts at about
$50,000.
Of course mine is loaded with options like
the leather with storage package, adding these
hidden compartments and underfloor stuff it
spaces, a great sounding Bose stereo with
HD radio, GM’s stellar infotainment with
all of the modern connectivity features, a
high level of safety electronics, and a spray
on bedliner for the stronger box with tougher
tie downs, power outlet, LED lighting, and
bigger corner steps.
It also offers the convenience of a power
tailgate…pretty cool.
Heated seats, heated steering wheel, super
quiet and exceedingly on-road friendly, the
Trail Boss is right on target.
Just keep in mind that these knobby tires
do chatter a bit on pavement.
$56,790 is where this one lands and that seems
like a very fair price.
Power folding mirrors and a power passenger
seat are really the only things I miss.
Now, keep in mind that the new Ram and updated
F-150 are also excellent pickups so this is
really one of those rare instances in life
where you can’t lose.
But even in a crowd, the Trail Boss rises
above.

2020 Chevrolet Corvette C8 Reveal - Finally, A Mid-Engine Corvette!

Edmunds:

[MUSIC PLAYING]

CARLOS LAGO: We just watched
the reveal of the 2020 Chevrolet
Corvette Stingray.
The base price is going
to be less than $60,000.
That's incredible.
This is the eighth generation
Corvette, and of course now
it's mid-engine.
There is a 6.2-liter
V8 right about here.
Now, that's a big deal
for a lot of reasons.
Well, one, it's the first
time that a Corvette
has gone mid-engine.
Two, it brings a ton
of performance benefits
and it makes a pretty radical
change to what Corvette is.
Really quick, that engine
is still a pushrod V8.
That means it's low, it's
sacrificing a little bit
of valve train sophistication
for sitting low in the car
itself.
It's attached to an 8-speed dual
clutch automatic transmission.
The only transmission
offering, and of course, it
drives the rear wheels.
Now, it makes 495 horsepower
with the performance exhaust,
and with Launch Control, and
with the performance options,
like the Z51 track package
that was on the C7, and so on,
enables 0 to 60 in less
than three seconds.
Push is pretty spectacular.
Now, one of things
that happens when
you switch to a
mid-engine configuration
is of course all that space that
was once cargo volume is now
engine volume, I guess?
But there's still
a trunk behind it,
which Chevy says can
fit two golf bags, which
is pretty impressive.
It shows Chevy's
commitment to understanding
the practicality
aspect of the Corvette,
and why owners really
appreciate that.
It makes this car more
usable for more people.
On top of that, there's also
a front trunk, or frunk,
up front.
Combined, both of those
compartments make 12.6-ish
cubic feet of cargo space,
which is pretty important.
Let's go a little
bit further up.
One of things they maintained
was the removable roof,
which has always been a
highlight of Corvettes.
It's nice to be able to
take the roof off and just
go for a cruise.
There are a couple of
other big, dramatic changes
to the rest of the car, as well.
Gone are the
transverse leaf spring
setup that used to underpin
Corvette for a long time.
Now we're just down
to coil overs, which
is more traditional,
and should make
for a really sophisticated
ride and handling,
especially when paired with the
magnetic fluid-filled shocks
that Corvette's been using
in recent years, and those,
we've really liked a lot.
Chevy says in the
press materials
that the Corvette equipped
with all-season tires
can generate 1 G laterally.
That's ridiculous
for all-season tires,
and that's such a high
amount of grip capability
that actually all Corvettes
now will have a dry [INAUDIBLE]
oiling system to ensure constant
lubrication to important engine
bits when you're
cornering really hard.
A lot of really
exciting stuff there.
Let's move our way to the front.
And one of the real advantages,
beyond all the performance
headroom, of having the
engine in the middle,
because it's putting more
mass on the rear tires,
giving them more traction to
brake, accelerate, and handle,
but you also move the passenger
compartment quite a bit
forward in the cabin.
And that means you can
put the hood down lower,
because there's no
longer an engine there.
You can make the
windshield bigger.
That gives you a
better sight line.
And because there's no
longer an engine blocking it,
you can have a shorter
and more direct steering
system, which makes the
whole thing feel more direct.
It also helps when you're
closer to the front wheels, too.
It makes the process
feel a little bit better.
Let's find a way to
hop inside and talk
about what's going on in there.

The interior's a
pretty dramatic change,
like the rest of
the car, I guess.
Two seats, of course.
Squared-off steering
wheel, which
looks interesting, but
in my experience, cars
that use this design work
pretty well because you have
four unique points
of contact that
help in doing hand-over-hand
steering around tight corners,
or when you're in a power
slide, as I like to do,
it helps you locate where
the center of the wheel
is really quickly.
Big digital gauge cluster
behind that, infotainment
display here, all
very driver-oriented
how it wraps around you,
especially this little trim
piece of HVAC controls.
Very interesting decision.
It's going to be a while
before we actually figure out
if we like it or
not, but I will say,
I like having physical buttons
rather than digital ones buried
in the menu.
One of things we
haven't talked about
is something that's
really impressive,
and that's a button
hidden up here
that lifts the front
end of the car when
you're approaching like a
speed bump or your driveway.
And the cool thing is when
you do that, you can actually
have the GSP system
remember where that was,
so when you get home, you don't
have to always hit that button.
Or if there's always a speed
bump or a pothole on your drive
home, the car will just
learn that as you use it.
And that's a really cool
thing to have in a sports car.
There's nothing more
embarrassing than scraping
the nose on your sports car
as you leave your driveway
in the morning.
Very, very embarrassing.
There's a lot here that we're
going to learn, and experience,
and talk about.
But for the time being, this
Corvette looks really cool,
and we can't wait to drive it.

Albert Gutierrez & His 1954 Chevrolet Bel Air - Lowrider Roll Models Ep. 9

The 2019 Chevrolet Blazer Is No Retro Ride | Edmunds

Edmunds:

[ROCK MUSIC]
DAN FRIO: This is the
2019 Chevrolet Blazer.
Chevy's brought back the iconic
name for its new midsize SUV.
But this is a very different
car than its predecessors.
Is it worthy of the name?
We're here to find out.
[ROCK MUSIC]

For starters, this new
Blazer has four doors.
Now, sure, some of the earlier
Blazers also had four doors.
But talk to any Blazer purist,
people who know the SUV,
Blazers only have two doors.
That's not to say
this isn't a good SUV.
But it's made with a
very different philosophy
from those earlier Blazers.
While those old
truck-based Blazers
were prized for their
rugged off-road ability,
this new Blazer is more
about comfort, convenience,
technology, and even
a little bit of sport.
And while today's
Blazer does offer
an optional sophisticated
all-wheel drive
system, about the toughest
terrain this Blazer is
likely to see is in
the Costco parking lot.
One of the endearing
qualities of those old Blazers
was the thick, blocky
styling that just looked
like it could take a beating.
So this new Blazer got this big
wide grill allowed engineers
to widen the suspension
track for sportier handling.
It's got these thin lights,
these creased hood lines.
And it's got this window line
that rises toward the back--
kind of gives it a street tough
look inspired by the Camaro
rather than an
off-road tough look.

On sale now, 4-cylinder
based-trim Blazers
start around $30,000.
Moving up the line gets
you the 3.6 liter V6.
The red RS we just
looked at starts at 42.
But the premier level,
which I'm driving now,
starts around $44,000.
The 3.6 liter V6--
that makes 380 horsepower.
And the first thing you
notice about this engine
is just how smooth it is.
It accelerates
smoothly-- appears
to have plenty of power,
especially on the highway
or in these kind of
winding canyon roads
that we're on right now.
The Blazer's handling is
pretty impressive for what
is, otherwise, just a
general mid-sized SUV.
The suspension on
this is a wider track.
So it allows for flatter
cornering and less body roll,
so say the engineers.
But actually when you're
driving it in practice,
you can kind of feel it.
It's not a sport SUV, but
you can definitely carry
a little more speed
into the corners
than you might with
another midsize SUV.
The steering on the Blazer
is right down the middle--
a little light, if anything.
But we'll take that in
an SUV of this size.
But, overall, it's got good,
sporty confident feeling
in the steering.
Thankfully, we haven't needed
to panic-test the brakes out
on the freeway.
But here in the canyon,
they feel great.
Brakes engage easily.
There's no grabbiness to them.
There's a real smoothness to
this SUV's dynamic character,
overall.
Chevy's tend to have
this solid build
feel from behind the wheel.
And you notice it in the
Blazer in that there's not
a lot of road noise
or wind noise that's
coming into the cabin.
There's a little tire hum,
and there's a little rush
of wind over the windshield.
But it's nothing that would
impede a conversation.
It's nothing that I think would
fatigue you over a long drive.
This is a nice, quiet cabin.
From the driver's seat,
I feel very comfortable.
I've got plenty of elbow
room on both sides.
Seats are nice and wide.
It's not too much
bolstering here.
So you've got plenty of
room to kind of move around.
Good power adjustments,
good lumbar support.
It's easy to find a good
driving position in the Blazer.
In this trim, the premier
trim that we're driving,
there's also a power
telescoping steering column.
So that helps you dial
in a good spot, as well.
One thing you notice right
away from the driver's seat--
there's not a lot of room
to look out the back.
The exterior design uses
a Camaro-like window line
that rises up.
As such, it compromises your
view at the rear corners.
It's not a huge deal.
There is blind spot
monitoring on this trim.
But it's something to consider.
One thing about the
Blazer's ride quality
is that it does a good job
of suppressing harsh impacts
and jolts and keeping them out
of the cabin for the most part.
On the other hand, there's a
bit more bounce up and down
than you might expect.
It's not a deal
breaker, by any means.
But it's something you
want to consider, though,
and something you will
notice on rough roads.
Right now, we're in the RS trim
of the 2019 Chevrolet Blazer.
You can tell it's the RS trim
by some of the red accents
around the vent rings
here in the shift lever.
Otherwise, today's Blazer comes
with about everything you'd
expect of a family crossover.
It's got this
8-inch touchscreen.
It's got in-car Wi-Fi,
Apple CarPlay, Android Auto,
six USB ports, wireless
device charging.
It's got about
everything you need
to keep your family
connected and happy.
I like this instrument panel.
It's pretty clean.
You've got a row of hard buttons
here for the climate control.
One of the highlights of this
updated infotainment system,
which Chevy is calling
Infotainment 3,
is this ability to
set user profiles.
And it can store
preferences for everything
from your favorite
audio preferences
to climate control, even entry
and exit seating position.
One of the things I really
like about this new touchscreen
is just how crisp
the graphics are.
The icons are really
sharp, really clean.
And there's this great
camera with multiple views--
bird's eye view,
front view, view
to the side, view of the back.
It's really helpful.
Two adults can sit
comfortably in the back.
Taller passengers may
lack some headroom.
But sliding and reclining
seats will help.
Two vents, two USB ports,
and a 120-volt plug
round out the offerings.
So is this new Blazer the retro
omage that we had hoped for?
Not quite.
But since truck-based
SUVs don't sell
like they once did
anyways, our expectations
were pretty tempered.
But with this new Blazer
lacks in backwards ruggedness,
it makes up for with a strong V6
engine, a roomy cabin, a cargo
area, and a pretty slick
technology interface.
We're taking one of
these back to the office,
so stay tuned for more on the
new 2019 Chevrolet Blazer.
For more on the new Blazer
and other crossovers,
please subscribe to
our channel, and go
to edmunds.com when you're
looking for your next car.

2019 Chevrolet Blazer Quick Drive | Consumer Reports

Consumer Reports:

[MUSIC PLAYING]
Dormant for over a decade,
the Chevrolet Blazer
returns for 2019, but
with a more modern focus
on tech and convenience
features rather than ruggedness.
As one of the OG sport
utility vehicles,
the Blazer created a lasting
impact on the American market.
It was truck-based,
and it was big.
This iteration contains
a few callbacks
to that heritage with lots
of aggressive styling,
but also stands out
for its sporty touches
that will separate it from other
mid-sized SUVs on the road.
The interior continues the
stylish vibe with many premium
touches, like the
padded dashboard
with handsome stitching.
However, cheap plastic
on the doorsill
does detract from
the upscale vibe.
The center stack includes a
standard 8-inch touchscreen,
with buttons and knobs
for common functions.
The Blazer sports GM's most
recent infotainment system,
which we found easy to
navigate, and includes
Android Auto and Apple
CarPlay compatibility.
A flat floor greets
passengers in the rear seats,
although they might
find the space slightly
tight for this size SUV.
Thankfully, there's ample
room in the cargo area
for whatever you're hauling.
We found the sloping
roof lining back
had a big impact on
visibility, though,
with large rear pillars
blocking much of the view.
This makes the inclusion
of a surround-view camera
a welcome addition.
Other high-tech touches
include a live look
out of the rear camera
in your rearview mirror,
which you can easily disengage
if you find it distracting.
Driving the Blazer in open
road and on our track,
our first impressions found
it to have competent handling
and a firm control ride.
It's quite civilized, feeling
much like a modern SUV
than the old Blazer.
Our car has the 3.6-liter
V6 paired to a nine-speed
automatic.
Transmission works well,
complementing the engine's
smooth power delivery.
That also bodes well for the
Blazer's 4,500-pound towing
capacity.
We also added leather trim,
which includes blind spot
warning and rear
cross-traffic alert,
but conspicuously lacks forward
collision warning and automatic
emergency braking--
disappointing given the
over $40,000 sticker price.
Through and through, this is
a new Blazer for a new era.
But can this
sleeker design carry
the torch of its fondly
remembered predecessors?
We'll know more once we put
it through our full battery
of tests here at our track.
For more on SUVs, check
out consumerreports.org.

2015 Chevrolet Impala | CarGurus Test Drive Review

CarGurus:

Hi! I'm Chris Wardlaw for CarGurus, and this
is a 2015 Chevrolet Impala, a full-size, 4-door
family sedan. Now generally speaking, I like
this car, but having driven it for a week
now, I can't figure out why full-size sedans
continue to exist. We'll get to more on that
in a minute. For now, let's talk about what
we're driving today. Now my test car is equipped
with 2LT trim and just about every option
you can throw on this vehicle. The total window
sticker comes to just over $37,000, and this
particular paint color, just in case you like
it, is called Crystal Red Tintcoat - it is
an extra-cost option. Now, this is a sleek-looking
full-size sedan, and it's got a lot of heritage
design queues for Chevrolet, such as this
scalloped hood design; it's got this rising
character line over the rear fender; of course,
the classic Impala badge; it's got this kinked
D-pillar here, and my test car's got optional
19-inch wheels and tires, which really give
this particular Impala presence. Now, you're
probably wondering what's under the hood.
A 4-cylinder engine is standard in all Impalas,
but if you get the 2LT or the 2LTZ trim level,
you get a 3.6-liter V6 making 305 horsepower.
In case you're wondering, that's more horsepower
than the last-generation Impala SS ever made.
Now when you get inside of a Chevy Impala,
what you're going to be doing is you're going
to be facing a very busy dashboard. It's got
this stylish dual-cowl appearance, but even
in jet black, it looks busy. If you get any
other interior color, you get a 2-tone effect
that just exacerbates the amount of chrome
detailing and this shiny trim and this fake
wood. It's supposed to come off as looking
upscale, instead it comes off as kinda cheesy.
Now the control layout is actually fairly
simple, because a lot of your functions are
grouped together here in this 8-inch Chevrolet
MyLink touchscreen or the driver information
center that's between the gauges. Everything's
really easy to find as long as you're not
driving - I mean you're not supposed to play
with the touchscreen much when you're driving
- the problem is that the trim that goes around
these components and the buttons themselves
- if you listen, you'll hear them creak under
pressure, and it just sounds cheap. And because
these are the controls that people use all
the time, the driver's constantly reminded
that somebody in some meeting somewhere at
General Motors decided, "Yeah, let's cut a
few cents off those controls." They really
need to upgrade that, because otherwise there's
nothing to complain about in terms of the
quality of the interior. The front seats of
the 2LT are exceptionally comfortable. My
test car's got these optional microfiber suede
inserts with leatherette. The back seat is
absolutely massive, but one thing you should
know is that while this is a 5-passenger vehicle,
we decided to do a little road trip with my
Dad on Father's Day, and my wife got in between
the two car seats that were in the back seat,
and she was terribly uncomfortable. When we
use our own crossover SUV, she has no problem
fitting between the two car seats, so I would
say that that's one more reason why I'm questioning
the viability of the full-size sedan in general.
Okay, now that I've gotten all those complaints
out of the way, let's go for a drive.
So we're driving along a suburban boulevard
here in southern California, and it's very
smooth pavement, it's very nicely done. There's
not a ripple anywhere in it. Yet road noise
is a little bit high in this car and to be
honest, it is probably the one thing that
I can critique the most about how the Impala
drives. This V6 engine is strong enough for
almost any application. You've got plenty
of power to merge onto a fast-flowing freeway,
you've got plenty of power for passing, climbing
mountain grades. The 6-speed automatic transmission
behaves itself in almost all circumstances.
There was one time up in the mountains on
a twisty road when I was going downhill that
it started holding revs in an odd way, but
otherwise, it operated entirely unobtrusively.
The one thing I don't like about it is there's
a manual-shift mode, but it's a little rocker
switch on top of the gear-shift lever, which
is really almost no fun to use and just kinda
makes the interior look a little bit less
cohesive. But the brakes are outstanding.
I tested this car on a hot day in the mountains,
repeatedly abused the brakes, and they withstood
every application no matter how deeply I got
into the pedal. The suspension tuning is outstanding.
If you're looking for a car with a nice smooth
ride that absorbs everything, this is the
car for you. Overall, I really enjoyed my
seat time in the Impala. One thing I did want
to mention is that this car comes with 4G
LTE WiFi connectivity, and I actually took
a business meeting while I was sitting here
in the driver's seat. Conference call via
Bluetooth, I had my laptop plugged into the
3-prong outlet right behind the console here
and sat for 45 minutes in a parking lot, taking
part in a conference call. It was fantastic
- the only thing is is that when you're taking
a call through Bluetooth, the climate control
system automatically dials itself down to
a lower fan speed, and it got really hot and
sweaty in here in a fairly short period of
time. I really wanted some ventilated front
seats, which you cannot get in the 2LT because
of the sueded microfiber inserts.
Now it's true that full-size sedans don't
sell in very big numbers, and now that I've
spent a week driving the Impala, it's easy
for me to understand why that is. It's not
because full-size sedans are bad, it's not
because the Chevy Impala is an inherently
bad vehicle. It's because full-size sedans
use more gas than midsize sedans while offering
only incremental increases in terms of cargo
and passenger space. Now if you're committed
to getting a full-size sedan, I definitely
recommend putting the stylish Chevy Impala
on your list of considerations. For my full
review on this vehicle, be sure to visit CarGurus.com,
and thanks for watching.

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