Why Chevrolet Spin Phase Out

Where Did All the Manual Transmissions Go?! | WheelHouse

Donut Media:

(fast-paced bongo beats)
- Oh, wow.
A white guy with facial hair
on a car channel loves
manual transmissions.
What an original premise.
Hold on, hear me out for a minute.
I learned to drive in a 1986 Ford Taurus
that my grandpa gave me.
It had a two-tone paint job
and pretty much everything in it broke.
It even caught on fire at one point.
It had a five-speed manual
and it was fun as hell.
But there's a big problem.
Manuals are going out of style.
In 1992, about 25% of car buyers
chose a manual transmission.
20 years go by and in 2012,
that number fell to just 6.8%.
In 2018, just 3.5% of buyers
drove off the lot with a manual.
As a result, car makers
started offering less cars
with a manual option.
In 2012, there were about 117 new cars
you could buy with a stick shift.
It's not a lot, but not bad.
In 2018, that number fell to just 85 cars.
Still not great, but it could be worse.
And it did get worse.
In just one year, the number of cars
with a 2019 model year that you can get
with a manual is just 57.
That's a 33% drop.
If the trend continues at this rate,
manuals could be gone in two years.
People are not happy about this.
You can't go into a
comment section of a video
about a new car without seeing someone say
would've been better with a manual.
(overlapping voices) Would've
been better with a manual.
(whispering) No stick, no buy.
I'm gonna find you, Toyota.
I'm gonna come into your
house and murder your dog.
And you know what?
I don't blame them.
Take the new Supra, the
highly anticipated followup
to the legendary sports car.
The Mark IV has a six-speed
and this new one doesn't.
(buzzer)
What the hell, Toyota?
Want another example?
The BMW 330i will not have a stick shift
in the US this year.
This is sacrilege
or is it?
There's a reason automakers
are putting an end
to the manual transmission.
It kinda sucks.
Enter the continuously
variable transmission or CVT.
They aren't like other transmissions.
They don't really have gears.
It's more of a belt
drive with two pulleys.
It's kinda complicated
and I'm not that smart
but the main advantages of a CVT
are super smooth acceleration
and improved fuel economy
over any type of transmission.
I mean, the Williams F1 team
was testing a CVT back in 1993
and that's when they were good.
Sorry, that was low.
So what would happen if an automaker
actually built a sweet car with
a manual transmission today
like people have been begging for?
How 'bout a four-door sedan with a big V8,
comfy seats, undercover
sleeper looks, and a six-speed?
Well, that did happen.
(funk music)
The Chevrolet SS debuted
in the 2014 model year.
They took a Holden
Commodore from Australia,
put some Chevy badges on it,
tuned the suspension a little,
and pretty much called it good.
Critics freaking love this thing.
Comparing it other sports
sedan's legends like the E39 M5,
a car that has been haunting
my dreams for months.
I want one bad.
Anyway, the SS was the stuff enthusiasts
had been clamoring for.
It had magnetic ride suspension,
450 horsepower, a six-speed manual,
and, my favorite, cooled seats.
The SS was set to be an instant classic.
There's only one problem.
Nobody bought one.
Over the SS's four year production,
just 12,860 of them were sold.
Just for comparison, Chevy sold nearly
10 times as many Corvettes
in the same period of time,
while Honda sold 1.4 million Civics,
and Ford sold over three million F150s.
Long story short, the SS was not a hit.
Just for fun, I went
on CarMax to find an SS
and to my surprise, there
were three of them for sale
but none of them had the six-speed.
I cried for half an hour.
It doesn't make financial sense
for them to build these cars
if no one is gonna buy them.
That's just business.
So, why aren't people
buying manuals in the US?
What makes this country different
from the rest of the world?
Besides automatics being smoother,
there has to be a good reason, right?
There are actually two.
The first is easy, convenience.
A lot of you probably daily a manual car
so you know driving stick in heavy traffic
is kind of a pain.
But if you take your
car out on the weekends
and hit the canyons, then the crappy-ness
of having to deal with that
is just part of the game.
But the average person
just isn't like that.
They'd rather get in their car
and listen to Oprah
Winfrey's Super Soul podcast
and drop me off at baseball practice.
The second reason is safety.
Now I used to think that driving stick
was the safest method because
it limits distractions.
It's hard to text and drive
if you have to focus on your shifts.
I personally believe that driving manual
makes you a more focused driver.
But it turns out, that's not exactly true.
A health science study at
Jonkoping University in Sweden
found that older drivers
had better reaction times
and make less mistakes
in cars with automatics.
When you combine that with
the fact that the age group
who buys the most new cars in the US,
35-54 year olds,
it's not hard to see why people
aren't buying new manuals.
Conversely, people aged 16-34
buy about half as many new
cars as the older group,
if they buy a car at all.
Companies are gonna listen
to who gives them money
so new automatics are pretty
much better in every way.
They're more efficient,
safer for old people,
and shift super fast.
But just because it's better
doesn't mean the car is better.
There's something about driving stick
that makes you feel more
connected to the car
than an automatic ever could.
And I'm not saying this to
talk down on auto drivers.
If you have fun with your auto,
that is totally valid.
I've had a lot of fun in automatic cars.
- [Zach] So you're only saying that
because you drive an auto.
- No.
(door chime)
That (bleep) Lamborghini was really fun.
But I think a good analogy for
driving a manual is surfing.
I grew up about half
an hour from the beach
but never learned how to surf.
But a few years ago, I
actually got a lesson
and caught a few waves.
And that's when I got it.
I understood why my friends would wake up
at 4:30 in the morning to catch a swell.
You're both at the mercy of the ocean
and totally connected.
It's a truly great feeling.
That's what driving stick feels like.
If you've never learned,
I definitely suggest
you get a friend or relative to each you
'cause it's the best.
So is the manual gonna die?
Maybe in new cars.
Also, electric is the future
and those cars don't
need transmissions, so
meh.
But as long as gear shifters are around,
I'm sure there'll be someone there
to shift them.
If this video gets
25,000 likes in 24 hours,
I will chug a gallon of milk in an hour
on a live stream.
They say it's impossible
but I don't believe them,
whoever they are.
My nickname in youth baseball
was the Milk Man, okay?
I can do it.
Thanks for watching Wheel House.
Follow me on Instagram @nolanjsykes,
consider subscribing to Donut right here,
watch last week's episode
of Wheel House right here,
and check out this episode ep-i-sa-do.
You know you had that one friend
that says he can drive stick.
Share this video with people
who need to learn to drive stick.
Be nice, I'll see you next time.

HOW TO DRIVE 3-ON-THE-TREE TRANSMISSION | 1977 Chevy C10 3 Speed Column Shift

milkcrate82:

Ok, well I thought I would make an update
To a video that I posted several years ago
It's the how to drive the 3 on the tree transmission
And so we're back here
Still a 1977 Chevy C10
And I'm still getting comments here several
years later about people…
It's bugging them that the steering wheel
was upside down in that previous video
Well I’ve got the steering wheel corrected
The dash was wrong
I had a… the truck had an 81-87 dash in
it
Not a 73-80 dash in it
The gauge cluster was all screwed up
So I just thought I would make another video
So let's just get started
First gear…
Pull it all the way back towards you and down
And there you go there's first gear
Moving into second…
Up, forward, there’s second gear
We let it go up
It's going to automatically kind of fall forward
a little bit
It's spring loaded
Up into second
Then we just go straight down from second
into 3rd
There you go there's third gear
That's all… it's only a three speed
That's all the gears there are
Back up to neutral
Just kind of jiggle it
And I'll show you real quick
Reverse… similar to 1st
Pull it back towards you and then straight
up
And that's reverse
So that's really all there is to it
It’s nothing fancy
Once you get past this, this is just an H
pattern
Instead of on the floor…
It's on the column
It's still a standard sort of H pattern shift,
shift pattern
And then the clutch and gas
That's no different than any other manual
transmission
You feather the clutch and the gas to get
it right
And that's all it takes
And woo!
I almost nailed a hawk!
So it's kind of fun!
I mean, it's only three speed
I've got a 3.73 rear end
So 70 mph on the freeway I'm turning
I’m think it's nearly 3 grand on the engine
speed
So four speed with overdrive would be nice
But I'm not too worried about that right now
Go first
Second
And there's third that's all the gears you
got
You're certainly not going to win any drag
races
With a 3 on the tree it’s, it's pretty slow
You know 3 on the floor or 4 on the floor…
Maybe…
Depends on how good you are
But, man, 3 on the tree
Don't expect to win any races
If you do then you're really good or you're
really lucky
Because it's a slow way to shift
So that's really all there is to it
I just thought I'd make an update video
Seeing as I got everything fixed
Everything that was making everybody else
nuts in the last video
So steering wheel is fixed, dash is fixed
Gauges are fixed
Pretty well close to done
Still need to get a radio in here
But other than that
So I appreciate y'all watching
And if you haven't subscribed, please subscribe!
CHEVROLET
GMC
FORD
CHYRSLER
DODGE
AMC
JEEP
C20
F100
F150
D100
TRUCK
PICKUP
CAR
CAMARO
NOVA
MALIBU
FALCON
MUSTANG
PACER
SLAMMED
BAGGED
DROPPED
LOWERED
4X4
LIFTED
SUSPENSION

2012 Chevy Sonic LTZ Turbo Review / Test Drive = MPGomatic

MPGomatic:

<strong><em>MPG-o-Matic 2012 Chevrolet Sonic
Turbo Review Summary:</em></strong> <em>What
a difference a year makes. While the outgoing
Chevy Aveo ranked at the bottom of all the
cars we’ve tested over the years, the 2012
Sonic LTZ Turbo has muscled its way into the
top of the sub-compact class. The sleeping
giant has awakened. While the Sonic Turbo
might not be the golden egg - nor a beautiful
swan - it’s surely a blast to drive and
American-built, to boot. </em>
Hi, I’m Dan Gray for MPGomatic.com and this
is a Chevy Sonic LTZ Turbo.
Available as a four-door sedan and five-door
hatchback, the 2012 Chevy Sonic can be equipped
with either a naturally-aspirated 1.8-liter
or a turbocharged 1.4-liter four cylinder
engine.
The turbo 1.4-liter produces 138 HP and 148
foot pounds of torque and is paired with a
six-speed manual transmission
The official fuel economy estimates for the
turbocharged 1.4-liter 2012 Chevy Sonic are
29 city / 40 highway MPG. The standard 1.8-liter
Sonic is rated at 25 city / 35 highway with
the six-speed automatic transmission and 26
city / 35 highway with the five-speed manual.
We covered well over 500 miles in our six-speed
manual Inferno Orange five-door Sonic LTZ
Turbo review unit and had no problem meeting
the official mileage estimates, achieving
a average of 41.5 MPG on the Interstate highway
and 34.3 MPG combined in temperatures that
ranged from the high-forties through the seventies.
Leave the line a bit too hot, and the turbo
four will provoke plenty of wheelspin.
The monochrome LCD Driver Information Center
provides trip computer functions, an Average
Fuel Economy display, and an upshift light.
We’d like to see a real-time fuel economy
display, added to next year’s model.
The improvement over the outgoing Aveo is
like night and day. It isn’t just that the
Sonic rides and handles well ... it’s genuinely
fun to toss about, whether darting through
city traffic or out in twisties.
Chevy describes the Sonic’s design as being
motorcycle-inspired and that’s clearly evident
in the unique dashboard arrangement. The Sonic
LZ’s interior features a leather-wrapped
steering wheel with audio controls, leatherette
seating surfaces and one-level front seat
heating. The driver’s bucket seat offers
four-way manual adjustment.
A dual glovebox arrangement includes USB input
and audio line-in ports in the upper glovebox,
with provisions to either route the cable
out, or store the phone or media player within.
Bluetooth is standard, with phonebook downloads
to the head unit. The six-speaker sound system
includes XM Satellite Radio and Bluetooth
audio streaming. iPod support is well done,
with full access to playlists, albums, and
artists. Three months of XM Radio and GM’s
OnStar service are standard.
The single 12-volt outlet is located between
the front bucket seats.
The Sonic hatchback’s second row seats allow
38.1 inches of headroom and 34.6 inches of
leg room. The four-door sedan provides slightly
less headroom (37.8 inches).
The five-door Sonic provide 19 cubic feet
of storage with the rear seat up, and 30.7
cubic feet of storage with the 60/40 seat
folded down.
Wish List: The Sonic lacks adjustable lumbar
support.
All-in-all, the 2012 Chevy Sonic doesn’t
just win the most-improved award, it’s muscled
its way into the top of the sub-compact class
alongside the Fiesta and Fit. While there’s
room for improvement when it comes to fuel
economy, there’s never been a tiny Chevy
as fun to toss about, nor as well outfitted.
The Aveo is dead. Long live the Sonic.
For more reports and reviews, come to MPGomatic.com,
where mileage matters.

3-ON-THE-TREE TRANSMISSION | HOW TO DRIVE!!!

milkcrate82:

Alright, so we're inside the 77 C10 here.
And like I've mentioned in other videos, it
is a 3 speed column shifted transmission.
So I just wanted to make a video about how
to shift one of these old transmissions. You
don't see these hardly at all anymore. So
if you've ever wondered how it works, then
I'll show you. And the first thing I'm going
to show you is reverse. You pull it towards
you, and up. Just like that. And that's reverse.
First gear. I'll put it back into neutral.
That's neutral right there. Pull it towards
you and down. That's first gear. Second gear,
pop it back up into neutral. Second gear,
just let it fall forward and push it straight
up. That's second gear. Third gear, leave
it forward, push it down. That's third gear.
So now we'll drive around and I'll show you
how it works. Alright, first gear. Second
gear. Third gear. Slowing down to a corner,
put it up into second. That's second gear.
Third gear. Coming up to a stop sign, put
it in neutral, pull back, pull down, first
gear. Second gear, just up, let it fall forward,
push up. Second gear. Third gear, just drop
it down. We got a stop sign so we've got to
stop again.

How To Drive A Stick Shift For Beginners (pt. 1)

Guys With Rides:

We’re GuysWithRides and today we’re going to be showing you the basics of driving a manual
Before we actually start driving, let’s get into the basics of things
The first thing you’ll notice is that a manual car has 3 pedals instead of 2
The brake and the gas are in the same place but the pedal on the left is called the clutch
In an automatic, the car changes gears for you, hence the term automatic
but in a manual this is what you’ll be using to change between gears
The next thing you’ll see is the gear stick
Most cars will come in either 5 or 6 speeds and the one we’re in today has 6
Before you start driving, you should play around with the gear stick
a little and make sure you know where all the gears are
All cars will have the same basic setup with first gear to the left and up
second to the left and down, third in the middle and up
fourth is in the middle and down, fifth is right and up
and sixth is right and down
While this particular car has reverse all the way in the up and left
many cars have reverse in different positions, which is why it is best to know your car before you attempt to drive it
Lastly when the gearstick is in the middle, it is in neutral
It is important to remember that the ONLY time your car can come to a complete stop without stalling
is when you’re in neutral OR when the clutch is pushed all the way in
Practice shifting through the gears with the clutch pushed in before you actually attempt driving
Another thing you’ll notice is the parking brake
Unlike in an automatic, manual cars don’t have a gear for park
so to park this car all you need to do is pull the parking brake up and for extra safety you leave it in first gear
Now lets start driving
Make sure your seat adjusted so that you are in a comfortable position
and you can push the clutch all the way in
and make sure your mirrors are properly adjusted as well
In order to turn on your car, you need to push in the clutch all the way in and either push the button or turn the key
Some cars will actually require you to push both the clutch and the brake to get it started
First release the parking brake and to back up you’ll push in the clutch and put the shifter in reverse
Now you slowly let go of the clutch until you feel the car starting to move
At that point you hold it right where it is and and very lightly tap on the gas to get you moving a bit more
If you feel you’re going too fast then push the clutch back in and just feather it out slowly again
When you’re driving in reverse, unless for some weird reason you decide to have a backwards race with someone
you don’t ever want to fully let go of the clutch because that’ll cause you to launch backwards with much more force than you would ever want to
YEEEEEEAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH
Now comes the hardest part about driving a stick
Getting going in first gear
Before you start trembling in fear, don’t worry because we’ve got a secret to make it very easy for you
Make sure you’re in an empty parking lot with lots of space to practice
Okay now do this
Push in the clutch and put the car in first gear
Now WITHOUT touching the gas, slowly let go of the clutch
At a certain point the car will start to move forward and at that point you hold the clutch in place
That point where you are holding the clutch is called the catch or the bite point
This is where the clutch engages the transmission
What you want to do next is give it just a little bit of gas, keeping your RPMs around 1800
and the car will start to move a lot faster
Now you slowly let go of the clutch until your foot is completely off of it
The key here is to SLOWLY let go
If you let go too fast the car will jerk, you might stall
On the other hand, don’t give it too much gas because then you’ll launch the car
To prevent this from happening the ideal RPMs would be around 1800 until you fully let go of the clutch
Once your foot is completely off the clutch and you’ve got the car moving, you should just cruise around the parking lot in first gear
stopping and starting until you get the feel of the catch point
Remember, this is the hardest part about driving stick so be sure to practice this the most
Once you’ve got this down, the rest is a piece of cake
Now for changing gears
So generally first gear is used only at very low speeds
such as pulling out of your mom's garage and parking lots
Once the RPMs hit around 3500, you’ll want to push in the clutch and pull down the shifter into second gear
Be sure to let off the gas when you push the clutch in
Once you’re in second gear you slowly let go of the clutch while giving it gas at the same time
just as you did to get started
If you’re able to go this then you’ve officially learned how to drive a stick
because the rest of the gears work the exact same way
Once you’ve got enough practice you can go onto the road and try it out yourself
When you're coming to a stop, for now you can just put it in neutral and use the brake
Eventually you’ll want to learn how to downshift and we’ll teach you that in a later video
For now just practice what we’ve taught you and congratulations
You’ve learned how to drive a stick and go impress all your friends
If this video helped you out make sure to like it and subscribe to GuysWithRides
If you guys want to see something explained better or want to see us post a video about downshifting
just comment below and we’ll do it right away. Thanks A lot, Later YouTube!

2019 Chevy Camaro SS: FULL REVIEW + DRIVE | The Camaro Transformed!

Car Confections:

What's going on everybody?
The Camaro is an American icon
And this generation particularly has been receiving rave reviews since it debuted in
2016 but now it's three years later and Chevy wanted to freshen things up. So it's making a Transformers inspired
transformation
Of course
we wanted to specially thank our friends at Sutherland Chevrolet for providing us with this fully loaded Camaro SS and
If you're in the market for any new Chevy, be sure to pay their dealership a visit or check them out via their website
Which we provided a link to in the video description
So with the Mustang recently gaining some ground over the Camaro sales wise, let's see if this refresh will change the tide
Alright so let's go ahead and address the elephant in the room right off the bat this grille
Now in pictures, I will say that it's less than flattered
But in person it does look much better
Especially when paired with a dark exterior color like this Riverside blue metallic
Non SS models also have a more traditional grille if you want to go that route
But anyways with that out of the way the headlights have also been redesigned
They are now fully LED on all grades of the Camaro and the previous accent light has been expanded to flow into the grille
Below that there is another LED accent and then on top SS models get a special hood bit
There hasn't been any changes to the side but the back did get some subtle refinements
The main thing is that the taillights have been separated again just like they used to be from the 2010 to 2013 models
They of course are fully LED and they have a really neat look with both amber and clear elements
SS models also have the really large spoiler. But thankfully my favorite part has not been changed
And that is the quad stainless-steel exhaust outlets pumping out that wonderful v8 burble
But overall despite some initial
Misgivings, the refresh Camaro is still a nice looking vehicle with a lot of lighting upgrades over last year
Now one of the other SS perks are standard 20-inch wheels
These are the included wheels, but there are at least nine of their options
Ranging from only $200 all the way up to three grand
and
four breaks
13.6 inch for piston bimbos are included up front and
13.3 inch ones in the rear
Moving to the mirrors you have to get this 2SS to have goodies
Like heating auto dimming and blind spot monitoring with rear cross traffic alert
Now we still don't have any other active safety features, but for 2019 we do now have forward collision warning on the 2 SS
Just be aware that Mustang does offer a full active safety package
The last thing to look at is the very generously sized 19 gallon fuel tank
Obviously fuel economy isn't great. But the big tank does still allow you to get 380 miles of range
Chevy does recommend using premium fuel in the v8
So that's it for the redesign exterior, so now let's go ahead and get inside and see what they've done in there
So every Camaro does come standard with Chevy smart entry system
And you will also find a standard remote start system. As long as you choose the automatic transmission. I
Like pretty much all GM vehicles, there's not a sensor behind the handle so you just press this button to unlock
And
Then looking inside the cabin you'll see there's not a great deal of changes for 2019 here definitely a lot less than on the outside
But the cabinet here is already a very very nice place to be now as far as the interior materials and color schemes
They also have not changed for 2019
So your base SS continues to come with black or gray cloth seating and then going out to the 2 SS gets you leather in
black gray
adrenalin red
Kalahari or my personal favorite the ceramic color was very classy looking
And then turning over here to your door trim that same nice look continues over here
So you've got more of that ceramic leather on the armrest here, which looks really good
Although it might be a little bit hard to keep clean
we've got even more leather up here as well as down here and then you've got a real piece of
Aluminum that goes around through here with your accent lighting integrated into it
As far as your windows, there are one touch automatic up and down and you also find two person memory seating on the two SS
As far as the seat it is an eight-way power adjusting but you are lacking lumbar support
And then like I was saying the seats they have a really excellent look and they also feel really high-quality
with nice bolstering nice accent stitching as well as your SS branding and
You can get a Recaro seat if you prefer something a little bit more aggressive
So, like I said at first glance around the cab and you won't notice any big changes from last year
However, there are some little details hidden around the cabin
Now one of the things that has not changed were the materials which were already excellent
So across the top of the dash you do have a heart touch plastic as expected
But once you move down to your lower area, so you've got a leatherette trim with color contrast stitching going
down even further
You've got some more leatherette where you need my touch as well as on the armrest portion and everything does fit together
Really really solidly and feels well built
And standard on all Camaros you do have push-button start
When you turn it on you will see an 8-inch display fire up on all of the SS models
versus the seven-inch display that's standard on your v6 and turbo for
But of course that right there is why you buy a SS
Now another nice benefit of going for the SS is that it comes standard with this
Upgraded gauge cluster with the large 8 inch display in the middle
Now for those of you have been watching this channel for a while
You know that I really like these GM gauges because they have a lot of functions and a lot of customized ability
On the Camaro. It's no different. You've got all the standard functions. Plus you've got this performance tab
This gives you a bunch of different information
Regarding your oil temperature pressure
voltage transmission fluid tire temperature a lot of useful things for performance situations
And then additionally you still get your standard fare options where you can change things like the theme
So you can switch over and go into technology mode. For example
And give a kind of a more high-tech look
To go along with that with that, on the 2SS you're gonna have a heads up this way
Now this also is customizable and adjustable you just press this info tab and switch to your miles
Per hour radio functions navigation and various other things or you can leave it here
Which is the probably the coolest one shows your rpms as well as the G reading so that's pretty cool
And then coming back here to the steering wheel
Thankfully Chevy did not change anything here because this is already a really lovely steering wheel. We've got a nice flat bottom design
contrast
contrasting and perforated leather stitching
And it just feels really really great in the hand
Now as far as your buttons, you've got your cruise control as well as your heating and then on this side
You've got your controls for that display as well as your typical phone and voice commands and below. You've got some radio controls
Back behind the shifter you will find paddle shifters
If you get the automatic transmission, of course and then the wheel itself is manually tilt and telescoping
I know this is not your main concern when you get a muscle-car, but let's talk about the storage
It's actually decent
If you have a pretty large for muscle car center console
So I've got enough space you can fit a phone or something else small
You've got your two USB ports and an aux jack right there
Confirm that you've got your two cupholders
As well as a 12 volt outlet
And then you can maybe put something up here as well. Although it's not really designed to hold anything
So for a muscle car believe it or not this pretty decent
Now, of course we do have the automatic transmission this is optional on the SS
So just like any automatic you pull back to drive and pop over to the left to select your gears manually or via
those paddle shifters
When you go into reverse a backup camera is standard
It does have active trajectory as well. And I think the resolution has been upgraded this year
It looks a little bit nicer than what I remember looking like last year
And then of course there is an electronic parking brake as well
I like you to expect from any good muscle car. You've got a host of different drive modes to select from
Now what it's been in so far during this review has been tour mode
However, you can go down into sport and that immediately even here at Idol you can immediately tell that the engine no changes everything gets
more aggressive
Then you can go into basically a full manual mode where everything is off for track use and
Then you get a snow and ice mode just to kind of help you try to navigate
different situations if you try to use this as a Four Seasons vehicle like some people do
And then this button defeats, of course your traction control
Alright, so now let's talk about the unique climate controls
These are dual zone automatic on the two SS
And of course what's unique about them is you've probably seen on previous Camaro reviews is that you adjust the temperature by twisting around?
the vent and you
Can see that temperature show up right there. I
Really like this, I think it looks excellent
and it's easy to use easy to understand the only drawback I can come up with is that
Say you have it. I had in our really high temperature like I didn't which was high 90 degrees
You kind of have to stick your hand into the belly of the beast
so to speak and burn it up a little bit to make that adjustment, but overall I think is really sleek looking and I
Like it a lot
Now also on the 2 SS you've got three-stage heated seats as well as three stage ventilated seats
Also on the two SS you've got the upgraded audio system
So let's go ahead and take a listen to the Bose 9 speaker sound system
Overall sound quality is excellent, especially for such a small cabin
That brings us to our first
2019 change or the most significant that is
Which is our upgraded Chevy LT man free system. So let's go ahead and take a quick look around this system
As you can see this has got the upgraded graphics as well as the upgrade of processing and everything in the backend
So you've got your homepage. You've also got some shortcuts along to the bottom and a home button as well as physical one below it
Now you can click on any of these sections to expand them
so for instance
We can click on our navigation which is a $500 option as you can see it loads up Chevy's latest navigation
graphic graphic quality here and performance is excellent much improved and this map doesn't even include things like your
Map tilt which is a pretty cool feature
Heading back here to our applications
You've course got your standard audio controls where you can play and pause through your standard bluetooth
As well as your other audio sources and then your presets across the top
And do I want to mention your phone
That's your keypad as well your contacts which are automatically sync over and there are awesome. That's text message support as well
Like every Chevy product you have a standard Wi-Fi hotspot powered by OnStar and
You do have standard Android auto and apple carplay
So you do have the ability to have navigation through Google or Apple Maps without having to pay that extra charge for the integrated navigation
if you don't want to
Now one of the other nice 20:19 changes is that your accent lighting has been upgraded further that already was super customizable
And really nice set up before but now you've got these split blended color rows
so as you can see, you've got your solid colors and
of course that takes the whole strip and make some one color, but if you go into one of these blended modes, so we'll do
this one right here as
you can see now our
Top part of the accent is a different than our bottom part
So it gives it a really unique look and you just have a ton of different options available here to choose from
But anyways, that's pretty much it for the Chevy infotainment system 3
However, we will have a more detailed tech help video available
For those of you who want to learn more a link said that is provided in the video description
Heading on up here to the mirror initially this does look the same as last year. However, it is actually not
Look this switch and you've now got GM's
rear vision camera system
Now you think do I really need this for a car so small since it's typically in trucks and SUVs
But as many of you know, the Camaro struggles with rear visibility and nothing has changed in 2019 in that regard
So the back window is still very small and you can still see very little out of it
So this definitely helps and cuts out all the obstructions
Integrated within this you do also have your home link universal remotes and
Then above it you get your OnStar buttons as well as LED light
This particular model does not have a moonroof. However, it is optional if you want one
But overall the small refinements that Chevy is made for 2019 simply make this an even better place to spend time
this is a cabin that feels everyday livable even though this is a performance vehicle and
Honestly, I just don't have any complaints about it. It's luxurious
It feels pretty spacious and so long as you can get past, you know, compromise visibility and stuff like that
This is definitely a car that you can be comfortable with living with on a day to day basis
Now we'll go ahead and hop outside here and let Mason check out the rest of me
All right, so getting in the back seats of the Camaro is pretty easy
So you just fold this seat back forward and then slide it with the power seat
Now once you do you won't have an entryway into the rear seats
now, of course
These are pretty cramped as with any muscle car and their technical
Measurement comes in at twenty nine point nine inches of legroom and thirty three point four inches of headroom
That does make it pretty much class competitive. Now, you will notice you have to climb over the seat belt. So just pull it down
Then you can climb right in
Now my first impression back here is actually a pretty good one now the seat is scooted all the way forward
So this is obviously more like room than the average adult would have
But I'm actually really comfortable these seats are buckets in the back still made that two-tone beautiful design and they're actually really comfortable
Here in the middle. You have another two-tone black leather here as was a little storage tray
And then off to your right you do have an armrest though. It is not padded
But overall
You don't really expect much out of these rear seats and Headroom is lacking of course and as well as you know
really like room but
This is not really that bad of a place that's really competitive with the class. And I really like that the seats are comfortable
Now to get out just go ahead and fold that up push it forward and climb right up
Getting around to the trunk, all you have to do is locate the button under the lid and it will pop right open
Now inside this is one of the spaces where the Camaro is smaller than the Mustang so you're going to find
9.1 cubic feet for the coupe model dropping down to 7.3 cubic feet for the convertible now
Like I said, that is smaller than the Mustang since it has 13.5 cubic feet
However, this is actually pretty big it goes back quite a ways and it does look pretty deep to me
You could probably fit quite a bit of stuff back here. Maybe a couple weekend backs and
The opening is pretty good-sized
Now, of course the passenger seat is that beautiful design with SS branding
In this model, it is two-ton as well as six-way power adjusting on all SS
I'm really pleasantly surprised with the materials in front the passenger since you do have a leather area up here
close up at a dashboard and
Down below that you do have a good sized glove box opens quite a ways
And above that you do have a Sun Visor with integrated mirror and lights that gently fade in
And it does also detach an extent
Well guys that sums up all the boring stuff
So now let's go ahead and get to the real reason you buy an SS the powertrain
So like we've already talked about this refresh is mostly cosmetic
However, there have been some adjustments to the powertrain still as far as the main part of the powering the engine it is unchanged
So we still have the lt1
6.2 liter v8
putting out
455 horsepower and
455 pound-feet of torque and
That's good for a 0-60 under 4 seconds, which is just about in line with that of the Corvette
What's different this year is that you've got a 10 speed
automatic transmission to replace the 8-speed automatic if you choose to go that route or
You still have the six-speed manual if you want the more purist experience
Now, of course in a vehicle like this fuel economy is not your biggest concern. However, we do have cylinder deactivation on the v8
So you still get a decent 20 mpg combined
Now believe it or not. This car can go up to 25 combined
If you go for the 2 litre 4-cylinder engine and that's really impressive for a performance vehicle
But anyway, so that sums up our basic
Powertrain information. So let's go ahead and go for a quick test drive
Now of course this is not my car
And it's very cold
Out there ice on the road and the tires are very cold. So it's not gonna be like a super exhilarating
burnout drag race
Donut type of test drive but we will get a little taste of just how nice that engine sounds even at low speeds
I mean, that's really why you buy the SS because you're not driving
you know the
Throttle matted all the time actually most the time you're not going to be because this is just a ton of power
So even when you're just driving casually around town
Whatever, it just sounds fantastic and that to me is just the biggest reason to get the SS
So in case you're wondering this is a fun car even a 25
It's just it's really irresistible
To just a goose that throttle listen to that exhaust note and I you would enjoy this at any speed and
Also, I think the notice is that you capture everyone's attention when you're driving down the street in this thing
It's a captivating blue color and all that noise. It's making everybody will be looking at you
Now, of course we're not gonna have any meaningful impressions for you know handling at the edge or whatever
Because this has capability that there's no way I'm gonna be able to test out
But uh
You know, you can't tell of course the steering is excellent very commutative
Super fast right now. We're in the sport mode. That's what I think most owners would want to stay in just to
make sure you get all the entrance note that you can get all the time and
Keeps that steering and throttle response as sharp as possible
And let's play around the manor moer just a little bit before we return it
Wow
Flip that throttle Wow, just excellent I get home. I'm gonna see why anybody would want to home this car
If this is not something you consider at least considered owning, you know, it's not the most practical type of vehicle
But if you drive this thing you start to make excuses for reasons why you should have it
and
And it's not it's not horrible. No you quality
You know just driving down the street if you put it in the touring mode, it doesn't make a lot of noise
but if you can get past the noise which you know a lot of people like
It's really a comfortable car. It doesn't ride too too rough or anything like that. So
Overall I'm very impressed with all those car drives
Well guys we hope you enjoyed watching this in-depth look at the 2019 Chevy Camaro SS
Stay watching for quickly with the pricing and don't forget to those like and subscribe buttons below
We'll catch you next time as the same for more at the latest automotive delicacies

How to Change Fluid in a Manual Transmission : Removing Drain Plug From a Manual Transmission

expertvillage:

In this clip, we're going to talk about the
proper service procedure for changing the
transmission fluid in a standard transmission.
In this step, we're going to talk about locating
of our drain and fill plugs and placement
of our drain pan. I'm going to go ahead and
roll underneath the vehicle now. The drain
plug and fill plugs are going to be located
on the same side of the transmission case.
This one right here is my drain plug, you
can see it's actually labeled drain, right
here. The fill plug is located, like I said,
on the same side but at a much higher location,
right here. This one is actually labeled fill,
as well. I'm going to take my crescent wrench
and go ahead and break them loose. I'm going
to take the fill plug out first. We don't
have any damage or anything leaking on us
by removing the fill plug. That's the fill
plug right there. The actual size is a fifteen
sixteenths, you may have to use a wrench or
a socket to break it loose, if it's excessively
corroded or somebody over tightened it. This
is my drain plug, I'm going to go ahead and
break it loose. It's a righty tighty lefty
loosy kind of bolt. You're not going to want
to screw this one out yet. As you can see
there's a little bit of oil just starting
to emerge out from there. What I'm going to
do is just leave it finger tight, roll out
and place my drain pan and then commence the
unthreading, until I have the bolt all the
way out and then we'll drain the fluid. That
is the proper way to locate your drain and
fill plugs.

Chevrolet Bolt EV Traction Motor - Deep Dive

WeberAuto:

Hello, I'm professor John Kelly and this
is the Weber Auto YouTube channel.
In this episode we will be disassembling
the drive unit the electric motor and
gear reducer out of our 2017 Chevrolet
bolt on the hoist behind me here. now
this drive unit and electric motor
combination is is all one piece,
unlike the Nissan Leaf that has a drive
unit that unbolts from the electric
motor. This drive unit is rated at 150
kilowatts which is 201 horsepower, it is
also rated at 360 Newton meters of
torque which is roughly 266 foot-pounds
of torque.
Now let's let's talk about torque just a
little bit. That torque rating is what
the motor itself is capable of producing,
that is not the same as the torque that
ends up at the wheels of the vehicle, so
for example the Chevrolet Spark EV
produced by Chevrolet before the Bolt
here
actually had an electric motor that
produced 540 Newton meters of torque, the Bolt EV electric motor only produces
360 Newton meters of torque and so you
might be misled into thinking that the
Spark EV had more torque; well, the motor
did, but not the torque delivered to the
axles that drive the wheels. So the gear
reducer right here on the side of this
drive unit has an impact on that because
gear reduction is also torque
multiplication minus frictional losses, so
the Spark EV had a 540 Newton meter
electric motor but it only had a three
point one five to one gear reduction
unit which resulted in about 1700 Newton
meters of torque at the wheels, at the
axles. the Bolt EV electric motor
produces 360 Newton meters of torque a
whole 180 Newton meters less of torque
from the motor, but it has a seven point
zero five one eight to one gear
reduction through this gear reducer
which multiplies that 360 Newton meters
of torque by seven point zero five one
eight, which gives us over 2,500 Newton
meters of torque at the axles. So there
are other electric vehicles out there
that are being produced right now that
have higher torque higher motor torque
than the Bolt EV
but what would be interesting, I and
I don't know what their gear ratios are
yet, is to see what is the torque
actually to the axles what's the torque
to the ground because that's what you'll
feel when you step on that accelerator
pedal, that's the torque to the wheels
that makes the vehicle move. The design
of this drive unit this electric motor
it has a peak amperage draw of 400 amps
versus 450 as for the Spark EV so it
uses less current to provide more torque
so it's a more efficient better design
electric motor. The electric motor in
this drive unit spins clear up to 8810 rpm where the
Spark EV only spun up to about 4500 rpm,
and we'll take a look at some
differences in the electric motor design
and the stator winding design that
allowed it to spin at those higher rpms
without the AC losses that typically
occur at higher rpm. As mentioned in the
previous video on high voltage
components of the Chevrolet Bolt EV this
drive unit uses about 2.9 litres, around
3.1 quarts of Dexron HP fully synthetic
base transmission fluid automatic
transmission fluid. It also is cooled by
the General Motors Dexcool 50/50 mix
of coolant and deionized water. Okay
let's take a look at the outside of the
housing here of this drive unit. The
official name or designation of this
drive unit by General Motors is the
1ET25. The one means it's a one speed
trans axle, this doesn't shift, E means
it's electronically controlled, T means
it's a transaxle, and the 25 is a
relative torque rating. Alright, right
here on the front of the transmission is
the actual last eight digits of the
vehicle identification number and you
can see that MMF right there, that is
the three-digit regular production
option code the RPO code that you can
find on label in the back of the Bolt EV if
you take out the lower compartment
carpet and look in what looks like a
spare tire tub, there's a label on the
driver's side that has a whole bunch of
three digit codes on it
MMF just means that's which transaxle
or transmission this vehicle came with.
Okay right here on the top of the trans
axle is the transmission range selector
actuator and this is a brushless DC
motor with a gear reducer that actually
moves the shift lever to put us in to
Park reverse neutral Drive and low, now
technically inside of this drive unit it
there's really only park and not park,
but there is a position sensor in here
called an internal mode switch that will
monitor which position the transaxle
range selector is in so that the vehicle
can act appropriately. For example the
shifter itself on the center console is
not directly connected to the drive unit,
it's just an input to the computer that
controls this actuator, so when we go to
the reverse position for the neutral or
drive or low, there's a feedback on the
internal mode switch electrical
connector right here, that lets the
engine control module, even though this
doesn't have an engine, know which gear
range you have selected so that it can
request the trends axle act
appropriately. Also, right here by the
electrical connector for the internal
mode switch is the transmission fill
plug, so if you want to put fluid into
this transmission you need a 14
millimeter wrench or socket to take this
plug out and put the Dexron HP fluid
into the transmission. There are two
drain plugs on this transmission, one for
each side, so there's one down below on
each end of the transaxle the driver's
side and the passenger side, there's
there are two separate drain plugs to
get the fluid out of each side, now
there's only one fluid that goes
throughout this entire transaxle but
because of how its baffled and set up
inside to remove all the fluid you need
to remove both plugs.
Now speaking of fluid and fluid level
when you drain fluid at whatever the
recommended fluid change interval is or
if you're doing service work on the
transaxle here and you're adding fluid
you need to know when to stop adding
fluid, so on the other side of the
transaxle right here is the transaxle
fluid level check plug, so the drain
plugs right down here, the fluid level
check plugs here, the fill plug is on the
other side so you take the fill plug out
you take the fluid level check plug out,
and you add fluid until fluid comes out
over here, and then you let it sit and
stabilize for a minute add a little bit
more and make sure that fluid comes out
comes out to a slow drip, and then the
instructions tell us to put both plugs
back in and go drive the vehicle until
the transmission fluid temperature
reaches 35 degrees Celsius or 95 degrees
Fahrenheit and then double-check the
fluid level again to make sure that
comes out at a very slow drip. Alright,
while we are here on this side of the
transaxle we have an electric motor an
electric pump for the transmission fluid
so there's a big filter we'll see when
we take this thing apart down the bottom
center of this transaxle it will pull
fluid up from the filter and then put it
into what's called the oil sump so the
oil sump is basically just a great big
bathtub looking area up here that the
pump fills full of fluid and then there
are these little drain channels that
fluid drains down to cool the stator
windings and lubricate bearings and so
on and we'll see that once we get the
cover off so we have an electric 12 to 14
volt driven electric motor that pumps
fluid throughout this transaxle. From
what I read this pump only works when
you are in Reverse or Drive, it does not
pump when you're in park or neutral.
Alright, we have another electrical
connector right here, this connector is
for the resolver which measures the
angle of rotation the direction of
rotation and the speed of the electric
motor rotor itself, and then there's a
transmission fluid temperature sensor
that is in the bottom of this
transmission case cover here. All of
those are accessed electrically through
this electrical connector right here. As
you may have seen in my other video on
high-voltage components we have the air
conditioning compressor of the bolts up
here and then we have our coolant pipes
that go into what's called a coolant
sump in the bottom of this transaxle and
we'll see that here in a few minutes but
we have coolant going in coolant coming
back out and goes through a series of
cooling fins and cooling circuits to
absorb heat from the transmission fluid
right here on the back we have the
electrical connection for the
three-phase cables that come from the
the
single power inverter module that sits
two modules above here. Three-phase
orange cables come down to drive the
electric motor, there's a cover
the cables bolt on and then there's a
cover they'll holds the cable in place.
We have a transmission vent right here,
let's just take that vent off while we
vent tube off while we're here now you
can see the oil sump area again on the
top and the cooling sump coolant sump
area here in the bottom all right there
is one additional plug on the side of
the case with the electric motor and
there's nothing in the service
information to indicate this but I
believe this is a pressure test plug to
check the pump output pressure, but I
can't find any information on what that
fluid pressure should be. Okay, I'm going
to be disassembling this transaxle right
here on the workbench but there actually
is a special fixture to hold this
transaxle and allow you to rotate it and
disassemble different pieces of it and
still be able to rotate it for
convenience. I have this special adapter
as you can see here in this photograph
but the way it's mounted it's too high
and too difficult for me to disassemble
in that holding fixture being in a
wheelchair, so the workbench is where I'm
going to disassemble it, but I wanted you
to know there is a special fixture for
that and I tried it it just doesn't work
for me.
by the way this transaxle weighs about a
hundred and seventy pounds or 77.4
kilograms. Okay, well we're ready to
start disassembly, the first step is to
remove this oil pump the 12-volt power
oil pump, it has three bolts right here
and a few seals underneath it as you can
see here there are two seals that seal
the pump to the transmission case right
here there are two bolts that hold the
cover over the pump gears themselves
there are no instructions on
disassembling this so I assume we're not
supposed to disassemble it but that's
exactly what I like to do
take things apart I'm not supposed to as
long as I can get them back together and
make it work again here we go we've got
a Jew rotor style oil pump there's an
o-ring right here that needs to fit in
this groove to seal and then the cover
just bolts on okay the next thing on the
list is to remove the left-hand and
right-hand output shafts that go into
our differential side gears in the gear
reducer this is the left-hand side right
hand side over there it calls for a
slide hammer and a old pilot bearing
removal tool for a manual transmission
so this is the pilot bearing removal
tool right here and a slide hammer and
we are supposed to put this up inside
and put it into the snap ring groove for
the CV shaft and then pop it out well
come to find out the snap ring groove is
thinner than the tip of this tool that's
supposed to go into it and I didn't
realize that's what the problem was and
I had a hard time getting these output
shafts removed I finally got him out but
once I got a mound got looking at the
tool versus what they were supposed to
be grabbing I realized I need to grind
these down make him a little thinner so
that they'll actually fit into the
grooves of the her for these CV shaft
snap rings that are there so since I've
had this entire transaxle apart before
and I'll put it all back together
I've removed those snap rings they'll
hold these output shafts in place so I
can just pull them out by hand right now
this big long left hand output shaft
goes right through the center of the
rotor of the electric motor itself it's
it's hollow in the middle
and it has a big heavy-duty bushing
right here on the outside with the axle
seal and this is our left-hand output
shaft and then the CV shaft itself plugs
into here that goes to the left front
hub and bearing assembly and tire and
we'll assembly so there's our left-hand
axle shaft there's a snap ring that fits
in that groove right there typically and
I've just removed and I've just removed
that snap ring for ease for this
demonstration here obviously I'll need
to put that back in when I reassemble
so that's the left-hand axle shaft on
the other side we use the slide hammer
again and pull out the right hand axle
shaft as you can see this one is much
shorter than the other one and it has
the support bearing in the differential
case itself that holds it in place and
its own snap ring that I've already
removed and of course an axle sill here
on the other side as well okay the next
thing on the list is to remove this
transaxle case to remove the case I've
got to take the linkage off and our
actuator off and then we've got these
bolts to go all the way around and then
we'll be able to see the gear reduction
transfer gear and the final drive ring
gear and differential gear set so I'll
take the clip out and lift up for a
linkage on the shift actuator and then
take the bolts out
okay here's the shift actuator assembly
itself transmission range selector
actuator kind of a great big piece I
I've seen some of these that are smaller
right I'm not sure why this one is so
giant I'm not I've never seen one this
big but it obviously does the job of
mechanically shifting the transmission
range lever since you have an electronic
shifter on your center console alright
let's take these bolts out of the trans
transmission case okay I've got all the
bolts out of the transmission case now
we can attempt to slide it off it has a
couple of dowel pins they'll hold it in
place there's a couple of pry points
plus one right back here and another one
right here there we go
I'm going to come in with a plastic
mallet here and just tap lightly there
we go okay we can see inside of the
transmission case itself and the only
things in here of real interest are the
transmission internal mode switch right
here we got the electrical connector
right here harness right there that
connects to this outer blue connection
connector that will read which Range
Park reverse neutral low you have
selected with your transmission shift
lever and then we have the parking
linkage right here we've got Park
reverse neutral Drive
and low now of course normally
transmission fluid would would be
pouring out of here of whatever didn't
get drained out when you drained it
previously but I've had this apart and
cleaned everything up before we have our
ring gear right here and our
differential gear set and as notice we
have real nice ball bearings here these
bearings since their ball bearings
instead of tapered roller bearings have
to have in place shims so there's a
special shimming procedure to control
the end play of these bearings that will
have to go through when we reassemble it
so you're supposed to take these shims
off and throw them away well and then
replace them with new new ones when you
go back together I suggest that you take
them off and measure them and then hang
on to them because you might you might
need them again when I took these off
previously and measured them they were
almost all identical in the thickness so
there are six of these shims for the six
ball bearings that are in this transaxle
four of these shims measured exactly
half a millimeter in in with the other
two one of a measure one millimeter in
width and the other one measured 0.9
millimeters so you need to keep track of
what thickness shim you had where and
write those down so that you you'll have
an idea of at least what it was before
you took it apart now if you're just
going back together and you haven't
changed any shims or any parts inside
just reuse the old shims but if you're
changing a bearing or any of these
internal pieces you need to go through
the special measurement procedure that
we'll see when we go back together to
determine if these shims are correct
okay so there's there's special shims on
each of these
bearings I've measured all of them RIT
written their dimensions on the ziploc
bag here that I keep them in and will
refer to those when we go back together
all right now we just need to remove the
counter gear right here and the final
drive a ring gear and differential gear
set this is where our short little
output shaft plugged in right here and
then our long one came all the way
through on the other side okay before we
remove these gears there is a an
aluminum gasket with a rubber seal
embedded into it the instructions tell
us that is not reusable
there is also an oil baffle right down
here to channel transmission fluid away
from the ring gear to reduce losses as
it rotates into it and to splash oil up
into different channels to lubricate the
the bearings if we look in this case
half right here you can almost see what
looks like a funnel right there for the
fluid to drain back down and lubricate
this outer bearing and a similar one
here on this other other side for that
bearing so we've got a oil baffle to
remove all right I've got the oil baffle
removed on the other side of that is our
magnet for metallic particles from gear
normal gear wear and other malfunctions
okay now we're ready ready to remove
these gears pull out on the counter gear
and then pull out on the final drive and
it'll come right out if you don't pull
out on that counter gear first there's
not enough clearance for the final drive
Unit two clear so here's our final drive
you can see our open differential gear
set inside there here's our sim on the
other side as well
all right the instructions tell us that
we can if we won't want to remove the
park linkage in the internal notes which
I don't really care about that that's
just regular stuff that you'd see in any
other automatic transmission so let's
continue on with things that are unique
to the bolt
evie drive unit here the one ET 25
transaxle so let's turn the transmission
case around and we'll take off the
transmission case cover here on the
driver's side
now the SAE document the details the the
bolt evey drive unit here that I told
you about in the high voltage component
video tells us that the drive unit
itself was designed to be serviceable in
the vehicle that's why they have a case
removable case cover on one side and a
case cover on the other side for the
gear reduction unit you can leave this
Center portion with the electric motor
in it in the vehicle and just remove one
or both case covers to do service work
on components inside the case covers
seal replacements resolver replacements
internal modes with replacement and so
on but anyway we're going to take off
this case
cover next from the driver's side all
right this case cover is going to be a
little harder to get off than the other
one because the rotor that has internal
magnets embedded inside of it has now
magnetically pulled itself over to the
stator because we are no longer
centering it inside of the stator itself
and so it puts a it pulls it off to the
side just a little bit so there's a
prying
right here
and there's a pride point right down
here another prior point right here
there we go okay so here's our case
cover and it has an aluminum gasket
that's not reusable as well our case
cover has this long transmission filter
that's not serviceable without
disassembling things as you can see has
a temperature sensor down inside of it
right there and then this is our
resolver our serviceable resolver that
measures the position speed and
direction of rotation of the electric
motor rotor inside the transaxle here
let's turn this around oh by the way
down inside of the bearing housing there
is a shim for the ball bearing right
here on the rotor itself so we're
looking at the stator and the hairpin
six conductor deep stator design a
unique design we'll talk about that a
little bit more once we get the stator
out we have a lubrication channel right
here where fluid is going to drip out of
our oil sump and run along and drop down
on to the stator windings themselves and
cool the the stator windings it also has
a drip channel that comes over and goes
down to this bearing here to lubricate
it
so we've just got an 8 millimeter head
bolt holding the filter in place and as
you can see the filter just has an
o-ring seal on the one side and you can
see the pick up filter screen filter
element on the inside so this is going
to reach all the way in up underneath
the the stator itself to pick up the
fluid on the back side of it and on the
back side of it is the inlet of the
coolant so that would be the cooler oil
on the back side there all right then on
the resolver it just has eight three
eight millimeter head bolts to hold it
in place and one electrical connector
this resolver only bolts in in one
location it's not adjustable it has
automatic learn unlike the older Toyota
Prius resolvers that that would actually
come out of alignment
if you unbolted them and there was no
way for you to line them back up okay so
here is our resolver pull back on the
connector position assurance clip
depress the tab and remove the resolver
itself the resolver is a serviceable
unit when and if it ever goes bad but it
should should never go bad all right
then the remaining wire harness and the
pass-through connector here just goes
over to our temperature sensor okay next
on the list we need to remove what is
called the center support this is what's
supported the driver's side ball bearing
of our differential case assembly
okay this is our center support it's
held in place with six bolts and aligned
with two dowel pins right there now with
that removed there's nothing to stop our
transfer gear from sliding out it's just
a tight fit on the bearing in the bore
as it should be just pray lightly
sometimes these will just slide right
out and right in and other times they'll
they'll fight you here we go okay so
here's our transfer gear it's ball
bearing and shim so put that shit over
here with the others okay right here in
the end of the case we still have a
lubrication channel right here from the
oil trough the oil sump I mean right
there and then we have a cover for the
three-phase electrical connector right
here as well then on the other side we
have that oil distribution channel right
here that cools the stator so we've got
to remove that we are now to the point
where we are ready to pull this rotor
out but we just can't grab on to it and
pull it out it has some super strong
neodymium magnets multiple layers envy
configuration inside of this stator
you're not going to pull it out by hand
and you sure don't want to come in here
and start prying on it so the only way
to get that rotor out of there if you
want to remove it for service replace a
bit bearing on it or the gear on the
other side or another bearing or just
replace the rotor itself for whatever
reason loss of magnetism and trouble
code sets or whatever
it takes a special tool to pull it out
without having it rub on the stator
frame itself and without having it
injure you with you trying to pull it
out and it's pulling back in with all
its magnetic strength so true get that
out there's a special guide tool that
will hold it centered in the stator and
we need to set that up next and it
starts on the other side here so there's
a special tool kit that costs almost a
thousand dollars to Center this rotor as
you pull it out I found one on eBay for
a little bit less than that but but it's
a very expensive tool but if you want to
do service work on this transaxle you've
got to have it so let's bring in the
special tools okay so I brought in the
special tools to keep the rotor centered
there's a special spacer with a notch in
it to clear that notch right there this
is just gonna fit in there just like
that then there's a plate that bolts on
over the top of this to hold it in place
these don't need to be super tight
they're just holding that little spacer
in place so I'll just lightly Snug those
up then there's a sleeve here that's
supposed to fit down the center of that
rotor but these sleeves are a little bit
too big I've had to take sandpaper and
send them down to make them fit inside
of this rotor and I don't know if that's
because the tools were made for a first
design rotor and then they changed it or
if they just made the tools incorrectly
but these tools are from what used to be
can't more tools the special tools
supplier for General Motors it's now
Bosch service solutions so Bosch you may
want to take a look at this this tool
here the DT five two zero one one
- one - three because it doesn't fit
it's not doesn't Center up inside the
the rotor as well as it should
i've had to sand it down just a little
bit and then i'm able to tap it in a
little bit there but I think that it's
supposed to be if it's supposed to be a
tight fit but it should be able to slide
in by hand I believe then we have a
guide pin that's going to go through the
center of that then we have this outer
housing the bolts in place to hold the
guide pin in place so the blue sleeve
this one here because there's one for
the other side also centers the rotor
into this plate and then this sleeve is
centered into this plate so we've now
centered the rotor on this side of the
stator so now we need to go to the other
side to put additional tools in to get
it centered and then pull it up and out
okay at this point if I had the
transaxle mounted in that special
rotating holding fixture I would just
simply rotate it on its side and get the
get the rest of the tools hooked up but
I don't I'm not able to use that so I'm
just going to put some extra long bolts
in this side of the case to hold the
case up off of this tool when I tip it
over to support it as we pull the rotor
out
okay so here we go we're going to tip
the tip the whole thing up on its hand
just like that so now we've got
clearance for the tool underneath and we
can get the upper tools set up to pull
the rotor up and out all right while
we've got the transaxle tipped on its
side let's take this oil sump cover off
and show you what's inside of there so
it's just a big empty trough and you can
see has one two three four five six
holes in it where fluid is going to go
out and drip down on other parts inside
of the transaxle for stator cooling and
for the ball bearing lubrication the
cover itself has that same aluminum
gasket that's not reusable also while we
have this transaxle on its end let's
turn it over and take the coolant sump
off next okay here's our coolant sump
you can see this pipe right here is
where the coolant comes in and it has to
wind back and forth back and forth and
then come back out over here the coolant
sump which is visible from the bottom of
the car with the under car cover removed
also has that same aluminum gasket
that's not not reusable why are they not
reusable I don't know maybe the aluminum
crushes these I'm going to see if I can
buy replacement gaskets at the local
Chevrolet dealer it seems like I saw a
service bulletin saying that all these
parts are serviceable now and it gave
the part numbers for them but if not
none of these are damaged it only has 35
miles on it and I'll reuse them and see
what happens
okay so coolant sump oil sump so now we
are ready to pull out the rotor assembly
so to pull out the rotor assembly we
have a guide pin it's going to come in
and screw into that dowel they had a
threaded end on it all right so this
threaded guide pin did not line up
exactly perfect with the guide pin down
below I can't tell if we're just
spinning the whole thing there we go
all right it's screwed all the way into
that alignment dowel from below now we
have this tool that has three holes that
go over the holes where the stator bolts
are so we need to remove the stator
bolts next these stator bolts are not
reusable three stator bolts so we put
this tool over the top of that we want
to be very careful that we don't damage
pry lean or set anything on the stator
windings here that could cause damage to
them so we'll get that lined up just
like that now I'm going to reposition
the camera so you can see
how tall this next tool is that fits on
here all right we have two clamshell
type tools that are going to come in and
clamp down over the resolver cam rotor
there and this bearing they're gonna go
just like that except I need to split
them apart so I can get the next tool in
it says this big tall piece right here
that's going to go over and down into
our stator bolt holes so we've got this
threaded shaft we've got this adapter
right here that these little clamshell
tools are going to hook into and then
the threaded shaft with a nut on the top
of it we're going to tighten that nut
and pull the rotor up out okay so the
tricky part of giving this hooked up is
getting both of these
clamshell tools over this lip right here
so I have to loosen the nut on the top
and let it come down let me turn this
you can see what's going on
there we go okay so we slide that open
clamp the clamshells around it put this
sleeve over the top of it to lock the
clamshell in place snug up this nut to
hold the lock in place and then from the
top here we start to pull up on the
rotor itself I'm going to get
repositioned bring my chair up a little
higher here so I can reach that nut it
takes quite a bit of turning to pull
that out okay here we go thirty
millimeter wrench we want to turn the
nut and prevent the shaft from turning
so I'm just going to hang on down here
as it comes up those guide pins the
guide dowels keep it from rubbing on the
stator frame although although there's
almost a strange ratcheting sound as I'm
pulling this out that makes me think
it's barely contacting the the stator
laminations or the rotor laminations
anyway we'll pull it out and take a look
see if we can see any witness marks you
can see the top of the rotor now is
starting to appear
I think we're finally clearing the top
of the yes we are it all of a sudden got
real easy to turn the nut so we no
longer have the magnet pulling out or
resisting us pulling out okay you can
see the entire length of the rotor here
get another bearing down below it and a
gear below that now we're supposed to
just lift up on this and and pull it out
I'm not sure if I'm strong enough I may
have to bring in the the engine hoist to
pull it out of here but it's just
sitting on these three non-magnetic
aluminum poles here and we've got the
weight of the the rotor assembly itself
I measured it earlier but I can't
remember what it is at this moment but
let's see if we can lift this up and out
though I cannot so let me get the engine
hoist we have to lift it up high enough
to clear that alignment dowel so I've
got to lift it up probably four more
inches 100 millimeters or so okay I've
never tried this before it's just a lift
strap let's bring it up
okay the lifting or the tool was getting
stuck in one of the holes for the the
stator bolts there we go
okay here we go
and we've cleared the alignment dowel so
slide the case out of the way here and
we'll let that back down
oh let's see how much that weighs it
says it weighs 60 pounds with the tool
the tools probably 10 pounds of that
okay we have to remember that this rotor
is highly magnetic very strong eight
pole magnetic field around this thing
and so we need to keep it away from
anything any metal particles or any
tools or anything else that could cost
cause it to receive damage on its
laminations here in looking at the the
laminations from removing it I don't see
any obvious damage at all there let's
let this down and take the the tool off
and just look at the rotor itself
little clamshell pieces out of there
these tools are magnet earth iron some
some sorts so we got to keep those away
from the magnetic field as you can see
these blue bars are aluminum they're not
sticking to the the rotor itself and
then plastic of course works great with
the magnetic fields so now we've just
got our rotor we've got our drive gear
down here I've got a ball bearing and
another ball bearing there's another
shim down inside the case a bigger
diameter shim for this bigger diameter
bearing all right I'm going to get some
wooden blocks to put this in all right
here's the rotor for the bolt
evie as you can see this bearing seems
to have some sort of a gray coating on
the outer race where this one does not
and on the counter gear bearings they
also have this gray coating it doesn't
say anything about what that gray
coating is for I suspect it's to prevent
corrosion from the dissimilar metals
with possible induced currents going
through them with the the motor running
vehicle going down the road I've seen
this type of coating on universal joints
in universal joint caps universal joint
caps bearing caps in an aluminum
driveshaft the same color I don't know
if it's the same material but if any of
you know what this coating is for if
you'd please put that in the comments
below I'd appreciate that
I'm just speculating okay so we've got
the rotor out of the way this is a
serviceable piece now the last piece to
remove is the stator assembly itself and
it has three special guide pins that go
into the stator bolt holes and screw
into the transaxle case and then they're
tapered on the top here and that's to
allow you to slide the stator out
without it binding inside so I'll slide
that over there rotate it down and just
pull out slightly
here it comes just like that so here's
the stator for the Chevrolet bolt Eevee
if we zoom in close and look at the
stator windings you can actually see
there are 1 2 3 rows of these hairpin
conductors which means they are 6
conductors deep in this stator and from
what I read in the SAE document on this
new improved motor that helps reduce the
AC power losses at the higher motor rpm
a typical stator like in the previous
Chevrolet Volt had 2 rows instead of 3
so they were four conductors deep in the
Chevrolet Volts and six conductors deep
here and one of the people that was on
the original design team for the
Chevrolet Volt told me that when they
designed this electric motor and it's
designed for maximum efficiency and hand
power that there was no other motor out
there that could even match the
efficiency of this motor and they said
that they designed this motor to be the
next small-block Chevrolet so to say of
power trains so the small-block
Chevrolet was and still is a very
popular very powerful v8 engine and has
been for many many years and their
intent was to have this motor design
maybe even this drive unit be in
multiple platforms with the same high
power high efficiency motor system if we
look at the other side here of the
stator windings you can see the the
other end of the hairpin conductors and
then there's a drip channel right here
for oil to come out of that oil sump and
to drip down and go down and lubricate
the stator windings because these get
really hot this is the heat source
inside of the transmission and it and
although it gets hot it doesn't get as
hot as the fluid
although the fluid gets hot it doesn't
get hot as a normal planetary gearset
style automatic transmission and the
cooling system surge tank reservoir cap
was only pressurized to 5 psi for this
loop of the cooling system so much lower
amounts of heat compared to an internal
combustion engine with a torque
converter heat generating planetary
gearset style of automatic transmission
now just a couple of things to get
wrapped up with this disassembly video
because we will reassemble it showing
the special measurements for the shims
and everything when we go back together
but one thing I wanted to show you about
these electric vehicles is how simple
they are and when I mean when I say
simple I don't mean simple design
meaning it was easy to design these
simplicity is not necessarily easy but
if we look at the number of rotating
parts in this entire drive unit
there are basically three main rotating
parts we've got the rotor assembly that
then turns the counter gear right here
that then turns the final drive three
pieces no clutch packs no bands and no
sprags no roller clutches no Pistons
none of those hundreds of parts that you
would see in a typical automatic
transmission let alone the internal
combustion engine that this is replacing
of course there are three main moving
parts these pieces here but each one has
two bearings on it so there's six more
pieces so there's nine total and then
inside of the differential here we have
two side gears and two differential
pinion gears so that makes for a total
of 13 possible moving parts inside the
of this drive unit and only when you're
turning corners would the side gears in
the differentials
be rotating at a different speed than
the differential case so a real basic
very reliable system these electric
vehicles and and this one is is very
efficient and that the design is very
compact to where this left-hand output
shaft remember goes right through the
center of the rotor instead of being
offset like on the the Nissan Leaf and
other electric vehicles out there so
congratulations to Chevrolet and the
design team that came up with this
amazing and efficient and simplistic
evie drive unit and I think it's
absolutely beautiful so coming up I hope
to shoot a reassembly video with all the
measurements for this drive unit and
then we've got all of these parts out
the drive unit all of the electronics
and our and our Chevy bolt back here on
the hoist is totally empty yeah under
the under the hood so we've got to put
that all back together and and make it
work again even the battery is out the
whole thing is stripped as far as the
powertrain is concerned and we're gonna
put that back together and and make it
work and hopefully get it converted to a
DC fast charge thank you for watching

2019 Chevrolet Camaro: INTRO

Dilawri Group of Companies:

I'm Sharnelle from Dilawri Group of Companies and here with me today is the
2019 Chevrolet Camaro. For 2019 the
Camaro receives a few minor upgrades. The
exterior design has been freshened up
with a new front fascia and rear
taillights. What we love about the Camaro
is that it's the type of sports car that
can be enjoyed by anyone. The base model has a smaller more
fuel-efficient engine that's practical
for day-to-day use but if you upgrade to
the ZL1, you'll truly have a
performance vehicle on your hands that
is ready for the track. Take your pick
from a 2.0L turbocharged inline-four, a
3.6L V6, or a 6.2L NA or
supercharged V8 that can get you from 0
to 100 in as little as 3.5 seconds. This
also has Chevrolet's most up-to-date tech
like the new 8-inch infotainment system
supporting both Android Auto and Apple
CarPlay. The Camaro's near 50/50 weight
balance means this is a thrill to drive.
Explore it for yourself at your nearest
Dilawri dealership.

2015 Chevrolet SS 6-speed Manual - TestDriveNow.com Review by Auto Critic Steve Hammes

Steve Hammes New Car Reviews:

Hanging on but seeing its dominance decline,
the traditional 4-door sedan is in a turf
war with the crossover utility vehicle. But
if you still prefer a "car" with some size
to it, that's rear-wheel drive, with a former
Corvette engine oh, and a stick shift - the
choice is down to one. This is the 2015 Chevy
SS.
2015 Chevrolet SS 2Finding an honest to goodness
large car in the blue-collar segment is tough
enough nowadays, much less if you desire attributes
such as rear-wheel drive, a V8 and let’s
not get crazy now; a manual transmission.
If that’s the car you’re after, look no
further. Now that Chevy has added the no-cost
option of a 6-speed manual, the SS is really
in a class of its own. Well, there is a cost
associated with the stick shift but it’s
in your favor in a couple of ways. Because
it returns 1mpg better in city driving than
the 6-speed automatic it avoids the $1,300
gas guzzler tax levied on that car. So it’s
a win-win situation and to complete the trifecta
of the no-brainer choice, the stick makes
the SS exponentially more fun to drive.
My first couple of SS test-drives left me
feeling a bit emotionally detached from the
car...both had automatic transmissions. Now
I'm not one to say stick shift or bust, but
in this case I'd have my SS no other way.
This V8 was just made to have a 6-speed manual
working it. It concentrates this car’s flavors
and results in a more fun and engaging experience.
And the sounds are small block Chevy perfection.
Yet another perk is the more aggressive, shorter
gearing for the final drive making it even
faster than the 5.0-second 0-to-60mph time
of the automatic. There are 415 horsepower
and an equal amount of torque on tap, so blistering
acceleration is an SS hallmark and the manual
gives you a better tool to extract the fun.
It’s easy to operate too so it never feels
like work though the clutch pedal is long
on travel and a bit springy on the uptake,
taking a little time to acquaint yourself.
The StabilliTrak system has 3 modes with full
off, permitting as much wheel spin as you
wish. In a sea of conservatively tuned, V6-powered
sedans, the SS is a true stand-out. The last
of the LS3-powered GM cars, the 6.2-liter
V8 starts and idles with attitude, gently
vibrating its power through the cabin and
producing a distinctly throaty Chevy sound.
The use of an aluminum hood and rear deck
lid, nearly 50/50 weight balance, a limited
slip differential, and legit staggered width
Bridgestone summer use tires contribute to
the car’s exceptional big car handling and
tenacious grip. Buy the key to making the
SS a performance sedan you can happily live
with every day is the Magnetic Ride Control
shocks, now standard for 2015. With Tour,
Sport and Performance modes, these dampers
work their magic through a host of GM vehicles,
each time significantly contributing to the
car’s appeal. Smooth as butter over rough
surfaces yet tight in the curves, the SS can
be driven though a wide dynamic range, displaying
skill throughout. It’s a quiet highway cruiser,
a hot rod and a nimble handler all rolled
into one…you could think of it as a premium
4-door Camaro SS. Another change this year
is the addition of Brembo brakes on the rear
as well as at the front.
Helping exude some personality from the understated
SS design is this new Perfect Blue paint,
one of 5 new colors including green and even
purple. Most people still don’t know about
this car as it gets no marketing dollars and
as such I was asked a number of times if it
was a Malibu or an Impala so it definitely
could use a shot of its own personality. The
interior shows similar restraint with a competent,
quality-driven design integrating tasteful
leather, suede and metallic elements showcasing
some class while the feature laden and easy
to use MyLink touchscreen system now adds
OnStar 4G LTE with Wi-Fi hotspot. It’s American-sized
and very comfortable for 4 but a large drivetrain
hump makes the center rear position a splay-the-legs
situation. And the trunk is even bigger than
the Dodge Charger’s. Notable features include
a host of camera-based safety features like
Forward Collision and Side Blind Zone Alert
and a nifty parking assistant that steers
the car perfectly and easily into a parallel
or perpendicular parking space. There’s
also a heads-up display.
Imported from GM’s Australian-based Holden
unit which is winding down production, the
SS isn’t likely to last, at least not like
this, past 2017. Just like another Holden
sourced car, the last Pontiac GTO, the styling
of the SS still seems a bit off. Either way,
it’s a niche car for a very specific buyer
but one that can be a very satisfying choice
for the non-conformist. Other than the sunroof,
everything is included in one tidy trim for
an as tested price of $47,640. Gas mileage
is rated at 15mpg city/21 mpg highway on recommended
premium.