5.9 Cummins in an '05 Chevy Silverado #CumminsSilverado
DEBOSS GARAGE:
So this is my '05 Silverado, it came with a six litre gas and the 4L80
after fuel well above a buck a litre, we're in uh
Dunnville Ontario Canada, I grabbed the calculator
and realized that every 100,000
kilometres that I drove which is about 60,000 miles, it was costing me
about $28 grand in fuel. After throwing up in my
mouth a little bit, I tried to sell the truck
but the truck's still worth $10 grand, nobody has $10 grand to buy a
truck so the only other logical thing to
do is pull out the 6 litre
and put in a 5.9 Cummins
So um I still went with the 4L80
I would've loved an Allison but they
only came behind the Duramax's and
there's no point in pulling out a
Duramax, they're good enough but the 6 litre
is just too hard on fuel. The 5.9 I almost
doubled my mileage
I'm getting about 18 miles to the gallon
20, 21 on the highway
but almost doubled my mileage with it. So every time I go to the tank I'm saving $120 bucks
and that makes it a lot more enjoyable
to drive.
The Cummins is actually out of a Ford 8000, It's a '91
12 valve, very simple the only thing to make it run
is just giving it fuel
you got your solenoid, if it's not running, it's
because it's not getting fuel so
either your filter's dirty, or your solenoid's not coming on
I moved all my gauges over
so that I didn't want all my Christmas lights on on the dash
so I moved my low oil, my oil temperature, my oil
pressure, my water temperature, and my
tach are all
moved over. The only lights on are the service light and the theft light
and on the dash it says reduced engine power
I can't, I can reflash the computer if I want but
I really don't care, I put, I drilled out the
bulbs on the engine light and the theft light
and the reduced engine power, well
I just stare at that, that's unfortunate
for the tack if you can see this gear here
this is actually the crank sensor
out of a Vortec, I grabbed a scrap Vortec
from the wreckers and pulled that off the
crankshaft and then moved my sensor over which is right here so the tach is still functional
I tried to get it to shift without
the shift controller by taking my
throttle control and putting a paddle on it
and connecting it to my throttle linkage
which is
back here, not that important but I figured
that's still my cruise
so as I step on it
it would hit the throttle on the
injection pump
and if I wanted the cruise it would hold it there
the problem was that I cannot
hook my map sensor on it and
because there is no vacuum on a diesel engine
it's only pressure so the truck would go into a limp mode
and it would stay
I wouldn't be able to throttle it up
so I ended up putting a cable on it
and I've loved this ever since, I've got about 50,000 kilometers on it
now and the whole job is paid for
I bought a
transmission adapter off of FordCummins.com
I think they're called Diesel Conversion Specialists now
the plate bolts right up to
the back of the Cummins, comes with the flywheel, and
the 4L80 bolts right up to it, I made my own mounts
I took the top half of the Cummins
off of a Dodge bracket, and just welded it to a
plate which bolts to the bottom half of the six litre
engine mounts and uh
I was wondering if it was strong enough
it's 50,000 k, everything's still tight, and then that's it
As for tuning the engine
there's other videos online you can look up and see what you wanna do if you want a little more horse
I don't wanna be a cowboy with rolling coal or whatever but I did want a little more juice
your um, Aroid star wheel is underneath this plug, you
can turn that
you can take this cover off and just slide your fuel plate forward
take it right out or buy a different fuel plate and
you can also play with your governor
there's also videos on how to tighten
springs on your governor, if you just tighten the springs on the governor,
you, it will idle like shit and it will not work
it will work but it it, sitting at a stop light
you look like an idiot because it doesn't run properly, you can buy the springs, they're about
$150 bucks, $200 bucks to just raise your
top rpm without messing up your idle.
The only problem I've had with this Cummins is behind
your filler plug here, I'll take it out for a minute
the, on the P-pump style injection pump, there
is no keyway holding
the camgear to the shaft on the
injection pump. So after a while
the injection pump
starts because it's turning it actually slides on the camgear
and you start firing at top dead centre instead of the
12, 14 degrees you want before and those markings, whatever it is, whatever your engine's
tuned for, it will be on the plate, right on the side to tell you what your
before top dead centre reading should be
so you have to pop the
Camgea- the gear off of your injection pump
take a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol
and put it on the shaft, make sure it's spotless, a little bit a brake clean, Q-tip again
and then a little Lock-Tight doesn't hurt when you get your proper specs
and tighten it back up again. So there's also videos how to set your timing
but if your truck doesn't start right,
you have to step on the pedal a little bit
to make it start, or it smokes excessively, and it's a
it's a burning sensation in your eyes that
means you're
its fuel, unburnt fuel coming out the
exhaust, then your first place to look on
a P-pump is definitely
the um, the drive gear. On the VE pumps
the uh, it is keyed
and the only way to change your timing
is to loosen off your bolts on your pump
and to turn your pump to get your before
top dead centre reading that you want, you have to put a micrometre in the back of the
pump and it'll give you a measurement
rather than a degree
before top dead centre.
Other than that, I love this truck, I added a battery
that's where the Duramax's have the battery too
you wanna make sure you got a nice big air filter to give it lots of air
this one did have an air to air
off of the Ford 8000, and you can just see the
the little bit of it here, I had to customize it a little bit
to um, make the hood
latch close properly. I had to extend
the ears, there's a good guy down the
road he does some aluminum welding for me
so he made the ears longer so that ears go around the radiator
so I still used the GM rad, A/C condenser,
alternator and everything that I could leave stock I did, other than the engine.
Because the engine is two cylinders longer than the 6 litre would
I had to move the transmission mounts back
now, there's holes in your frame that you can
just slide
that transmission mount back and you'd
have to shorten your driveshaft
because it does go into the seal and wreck the seal
and another problem with that is you have to lengthen your
front drive shaft is it'll vibrate because it's not on
the spines enough. I did, it was a tight fit
as you can see the oil pan down below is
fairly close to my differential
what I did was there's
I don't know whether they're coolant fins or whether they are strength fins
I had to notch 3 of them just to give it room for when the engine
torques up so that it doesn't hit the driveshaft.
I used the Coleman uh
transmission controller which is down below there, you can see
and it's infinitely tunable, um as to
when you want to shift
hard shift, soft shift, whether you're
hard on the pedal or soft on the pedal
it only took about an hour to install, and uh, very happy with it, as you can see it's
it's coming on.
I'd highly recommend the GM's, just because
Ford engineers are idiots they're a pain in
the ass to work on
the torsion bars on the GM's are great
way
to make up for the extra weight, the Cummins
dressed 5.9 weighs about 1,000 pounds
probably 600 is what the 6 litre would weigh
so you've got extra weight on the
suspension, all you have to do is crank your
torsion bars, you can get it right back up
to the height or a little bit above that yet
and then get an alignment on it. So the uh,
the adapter plate and flywheel's about $1,000 bucks
a new starter which is the 6 litre
Ford starter because it doesn't have the cone on it, $250 bucks
alignment was $300 bucks, driveshaft
machining which I couldn't do
was a couple hundred bucks and then
I also painted the whole truck
took me about a hundred and twenty hours
I did a lot of stuff messing around with that I didn't have to, especially that
throttle adapter.
I think I could do it again in about 70 hours
you need a MIG Welder, you need torches, you need
somebody who can weld aluminum, or weld aluminum
different ears for the intake especially for the
turbo and the air to air.
Other than that I highly recommend it and I would do it
again in a heartbeat
the next project is going to be a 4BT
in a Tahoe. Going to do that, we'll make a
video on step by step
how we do it, I grabbed that Tahoe 'cause it was cheap, it has blown 5.3 in it
but again you need the Z-71 because it's got
torsion bars
compared to the air ride. The air ride gives you problems and I don't
wanna deal with that with the different weight of the 4BT. So ya tune in and we'll uh give you up to dates
on the 4BT at a later time
So follow a variety of projects that include conversions and repairs
to anything from Ferraris to chainsaws.
And check out the Tape Boss, my newest invention that's coming to market.
And remember, if you're not filthy, you're not Rich!
Cummins 6BT 12 Valve Diesel Conversion Swap into Chevrolet Suburban Part 2
Jonesy's:
hello everybody Joel here again and I
give you guys part two of the K2500
Chevrolet Suburban Cummins diesel conversion.
we've got it
pressure-washed it's looking a little
bit better on the outside who knocked
all the moss and stuff off of it and pulled
it into the shop so this video we're
gonna go ahead and remove the six point
five liter diesel the four L eighty
transmission and the transfer case in
addition to that we have already gone
ahead and removed the rear fender flare
to get it color matched and repaired
that was cracked and we have gutted
about 90% of the interior you can see we
got all the panels in the back removed
the carpet on this rear section removed
the back seat the middle seat and the
front seats we still have got some work
to do on that front carpeted area get
that pulled out and get it all cleaned
up and we've also steam cleaned and
cleaned up the rear seat so I'll give
you guys a little tour what those look
like now they turned out really nice
well as you can see our seats for the
suburban cleaned up really nice they
look really good you got some texture on
them just from the cleaning process but
that'll all come out no issues there's
no mold on them anymore steam cleaner
worked really really good so say job
well done on those those look nice the
front seat upon further inspection
showing a little bit of little signs
away right here on the armrest and then
also right there on the outside but
although they actually look pretty good
so the biggest thing was we just wanted
to make sure that we took care of all of
the the mold and the mildew that was
growing in it from neglected from
sitting so long and they they turned up
looking really really good so happy with
that gonna order a new carpet kit
and then once everything is all
assembled we're gonna run an ozonator
inside which will neutralize anything
that could be growing inside the heater
ducts or AC ducts or anything like that
and take out any any additional odor
that might be hanging on so keep an eye
out for that in upcoming videos but
feels good to not have moldy seats
anymore and then part three of the video
is going to be this Commons freshening
up I'm not going to necessarily say it's
gonna be a full rebuild because I don't
know exactly how far we're going to go
into it but we've pulled it out of the
old dodge donor vehicle and it's sitting
here on the stand so we're gonna dive
into that in part three we're making
really good progress on getting the
engine removed we've gotten the radiator
out fan shroud out all that stuff off
disconnected one tip I have for you guys
so when you're doing these projects is
to go ahead and identify the sensors
that you're gonna need like for instance
this one right here is for the water
temperature so identify the sensors that
you're gonna need to transfer over to
the other engine the water temperature
the oil pressure figure out the
tachometer all of that stuff before you
completely remove the engine out of the
vehicle that way makes it easier to
transfer the sensors over to the Commons
so we we have run into a kind of a
roadblock here is a unfortunate but
that's why we take our time and do this
stuff right so the previous owner had
told me that the transmission was a
General Motors reman that had about
30,000 miles which makes sense because
the vehicle has 190 some odd thousand on
it and he said that he put it in at
about 160 so that that jives so he was
telling the truth
but unfortunately when whoever installed
the transmission decided that they were
going to break the ear off of the case
so what we're gonna do is we're gonna
send it out to the transmission shop
they're gonna completely disassemble it
install all of the guts which hopefully
are in good shape into a new case that
doesn't have a broken ear I was I was
hoping that we would have good news
about the transmission and that it truly
was remanufactured with only 30,000
miles which it may very well be but
unfortunately I cannot can't to install
this transmission the way that it is so
that's going to go to the transmission
shop get a new case installed and we're
going to continue on with all of the
rest of the progress on the suburban
so engines out of our diesel suburban we
still got it up on the lift and we are
going to degrease the underside of it
try to get it all the way cleaned up so
that we can neutralize any of the
surface rust you guys see underneath
here as well as get it cleaned up and
coat it with some chassis paint so that
it will be well preserved so you can
kind of see we've got tranny cooler line
right there hang in the wiring harness
for the transmission it's gonna tuck tup
over their engine wiring harness is kind
of draped across the back the diesel
model Suburbans have quite a bit of
firewall insulation that we're gonna
have to address up there the gas motors
models don't have that I'd like to
retain that if possible but I'm not sure
it's gonna it's in kind of bad shape
right now so we may have to remove some
of that fuel lines they're capped off
and plugged and the heater hoses are
kind of dangling for the rear heat so
the underside of the suburban should
clean up really really well with the
pressure washer
though pressure-washing is over and now
it's time to modify the chassis before
we paint it up for the to accept the
commons mount so the brackets that we
manufacture for these conversions
utilize the first gen dodge rubber
Isolators and in order to get those to
fit in there correctly you need to
position a hole right where that white
dot is in addition for clearancing the
oil pan you need to trim this bracket on
both sides so the drivers and the
passenger side also you'll notice the
bolt on that front differential
countersunk bolts and then the last
piece of item that you need to cut on
this front crossmember is these braces
so you can see I put a white mark right
there on the brace and right there right
there and then this side over here it's
a little tight but you just need to cut
it back so that it stays away from that
oil pan and lastly you can't really see
it yet we'll raise the vehicle up and
talk about it but we need to massage the
tunnel there's a pinch weld right in
that area right there that needs to be
folded back to allow for more more
engine clearance so we're gonna go ahead
and get the grinder and cut those drill
the holes and get our mounts set in
continue to prep this thing for paint
so we got the suburban modified on the
engine mount you can see how they got
cut off right there and the whole added
and now we still need to swap out those
upper bolts to get a little more oil pan
clearance as well as modify the
transmission tunnel just ever so
slightly so we'll show those mods in an
upcoming video but we are back on track
sourced a good used case that does not
have the broken here on it so everything
is moving forward towards the there's
the old case that we kept for for doing
mock up the internals of the
transmission looked fabulous so we
replaced some of the normal normal parts
and pieces get the pump seal replace the
pump oh ring as well as did some other
upgrades on the valve body and confirm
that it's got the upgraded wiring
harness as well as the correct line
pressure solenoid so everything is good
on our transmission and everything is
looking really really good on the
suburban itself so next is engine stay
tuned for part three and watch the
engine disassembly
thanks for watching
Ford Powerstroke vs Dodge Cummins vs Chevy Duramax
BundysGarage:
BUNDYS GARAGE BUNDY HERE IM WITH MY GOOD BUDDY
DARRIN HE'S THE OWNER OF DIRECT TRUCK AND
DIESEL REPAIR HERE IN SAN BERNARDINO CA HE'S
OWNED THIS BUSINESS HOW LONG HAVE YOU HAD
THIS BUSINESS 22 23 YEARS 22 23 OK OK SO I
JUST WANTED TO SIT DOWN WITH HIM ASK HIM A
COUPLE OF QUESTIONS ABOUT THE INDUSTRY YOU
KNOW IN YOUR OPINION WHAT TRUCK IS BEST YOU
HAVE THE FORD POWERSTROKE VS THE CHEVY DURAMAX
VS THE DODGE CUMMINS MAN THAT'S HARD BECAUSE
I AM A FORD GUY RIGHT ALWAYS THE POWER JOKE
I'VE ALWAYS OWNED A FORD PICK UP RIGHT EVER
SINCE I WAS A WHATEVER A GROWN UP A GROWN
MAN WHAT ARE THE COMMON PROBLEMS YOU SEE ON
THE FORD THERES A LOT BUT I SEE THEM ON THE
OTHERS BUT IT'S LIKE I THINK YOU GO HEY WHEN
I DROVE A TOW TRUCK FOR THE COMPANY THAT I
OWNED RIGHT SAY YOU HAD A CHEVY PICKUP AND
I HAVE TO TOW YOU IN CAUSE YOUR BROKE DOWN
SO I TOW INTO YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD YOUR NEIGHBORS
COME OUT AND AS SOON THEY KNOW THAT YOU ARE
OK AND YOUR TRUCKS NOT WRECKED ITS JUST BROKE
DOWN SAY YOUR NEIGHBOR ACROSS THE STREET HAS
A DODGE OR HE COULD HAVE A FORD IT DOES NOT
MATTER AS HE'S LEAVING WALKING BACK HOME KNOWING
YOU ARE OK HE'S LIKE HEY JON YOU KNOW IF YOU
HAD A DODGE THAT WOULDN'T HAVE HAPPENED IT
DOESN'T MATTER WHAT THE MAKE IS EVERYBODY
HAS AN OPINION I THINK FORD MAKES A BETTER
TRUCK I DO THE CHASSIS THE CAB AND CHASSIS
THE TRUCK ITSELF I CAN'T BACK UP I CANT REALLY
THE 6.0L DIESEL I CAN'T BACK UP THE DIESELS
THROUGH I REALLY STRUGGLE I WANT TO AND THE
CONVERSATION THAT WE HAVE IN THE SHOP ALL
THE TIME ALL THE TIME IS IF WE HAD ONE OF
THESE TRUCKS WHATEVER IT MIGHT BE AND WE SERVICED
THEM THE WAY WE SERVICED OUR TRUCKS WE RAN
ALL INTERNATIONAL TOW TRUCKS WE WOULD DRIVE
TRUCKS FOR 500,000 MILES AND SELL THEM WITH
THE ORIGINAL TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE IN THEM
WE JUST SERVICED THEM WE TOOK REALLY GOOD
CARE OF THEM SO IF WE HAD A FORD 6.0L IN OUR
SHOP SAY IF WE HAD A SHOP TRUCK WE RAN AND
WE SERVICED IT THE WAY WE KNOW HOW TO TAKE
CARE OF IT WOULD THEY BE A PILE OF JUNK I
DON'T KNOW BUT YOU KNOW EVERYBODY KNOWS THE
PROBLEMS WITH THE 6 O'S I MEAN THEY HAVE HAD
THEM FOREVER AND THEN YOU KNOW OF LOOK AT
THE 6.4L AND YOUR LIKE TURBO TURBO TURBO TURBO
YOU KNOW OR IT HAS TWO TURBOS RIGHT YOUR HAVING
TURBOS BECAUSE OF THE CERAMIC BEARINGS AND
SOME OTHER THINGS AND THERE HAVING OTHER ISSUES
LIKE THAT AND SO WELL THEY ONLY MADE THAT
MOTOR FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS AND THEN YOU LOOK
AT THE 6.7L AND YOU KNOW PRETTY COMPLICATED
TO WORK ON MAYBE NOT COMPLICATED TO WORK ON
DIFFICULT TO WORK ON YOU KNOW THE ENGINE KEEPS
GETTING PUSHED BACK FURTHER IN THE CAB AND
THE HOOD KEEPS GETTING SHORTER AND SHORTER
THERES LESS AND LESS ROOM TO WORK YOU GOTTA
PULL THE CAB TO WORK ON IT RIGHT PRETTY MUCH
AND THERE KIND OF ALL LIKE THAT BUT SAY IF
I HAD A DREAM TRUCK RIGHT IT WOULD BE FORD
CHASSIS WITH A ALLISON TRANSMISSION IT WOULD
HAVE A 6.7L CUMMINS RIGHT SO TAKING THE WITH
AN ALLISON TRANSMISSION AND NOW YOU HAVE THE
PERFECT TRUCK BECAUSE THEY ALL SO FORD GM
AND CHRYSLER ARE LISTENING THAT WOULD BE THE
PERFECT TRUCK IT WOULD BE A PERFECT TRUCK
I MEAN I LIKE EVERYTHING ABOUT THE FORDS I
LIKE THE CHASSIS AND I MEAN I DON'T KNOW WE
DON'T WORK ON ANYTHING THAT HAS THE ALUMINUM
BEDS I HEAR THOSE ALUMINUM BEDS ARE HORRIBLE
REALLY WHAT HAVE YOU HEARD WELL LIKE THEY
SCRATCH AND GET DINGED UP FOR A WORK TRUCK
YOU KNOW MOST OF THE STUFF WE WORK ON IT'S
A CAB AND CHASSIS THEY PUT A FLATBED ON OR
THEY PUT A TOOLBOX ON IT SO WE DON'T HAVE
A LOT OF STUFF LIKE THAT YOU KNOW EVEN THE
DURAMAX IT WHAT KILLS ME ABOUT THE DURAMAX
IS THAT YOUR BASICALLY WHAT AN ISUZU ENGINE
RIGHT AND SO YOU CALL AND WE'RE GOING TO PUT
CYLINDER HEADS ON THIS ISUZU OR WHATEVER OR
WERE GOING TO REDO THE CYLINDER HEADS OR DO
SOME WHATEVER AND SO YOU CALL AND YOUR LIKE
I NEED HEAD GASKETS FOR THIS ISUZU AND THERE
LIKE WHICH HEAD GASKET DO YOU HAVE I DON;T
KNOW YOU HAVE MY VIN NUMBER RIGHT IM CALLING
A GENERAL MOTORS STORE OH YOU NEED TO COUNT
THE HOLES ON IT AND SAME THING IF YOUR WORKING
ON ISUZU YEAH SO IF YOU DON'T SAVE THE HEAD
GASKET YOUR SCREWED CAUSE THEN YOU GOTTA TAKE
ALL THE MEASUREMENTS AND TRY TO PUT IT BACK
YOU KNOW LIME ON NO IT HAS ZERO HOLES NO I
HAVE ONE HOLE THATS KIND OF CRAZY RIGHT LIKE
HOW CAN THEY NOT HAVE THAT FIGURED OUT IF
IT'S A FORD I DON;T CARE IS IT A 6.0L 6.4L.
OR A 6.7L IF I TELL THEM I NEED A HEAD GASKET
FOR THAT VIN NUMBER FOR THAT ENGINE YOU KNOW
THEY KNOW IT'S THE SAME HEAD GASKET YOU KNOW
WHAT I MEAN THE 6 7 YOU HAVE THE SAME I KIND
OF STRUGGLE WITH WITH AH WITH THAT AND LIKE
I SAID WITH THE 6.7L CUMMINS YOU KNOW THEY
HAD SOME TROUBLES WITH THE 6.7L YOU KNOW THE
CUMMINS HAD SOME PROBLEMS WITH THE TURBOS
COKING OVER AND SOME THINGS LIKE THAT BUT
THOSE ON THE CUMMINS YEAH ON THE CUMMINS THEY
DID HAVE SOME PROBLEMS I THINK THEY TOOK CARE
OF THEM THEY SAID IT WAS A PROGRAMMING ISSUE
I DIDN;T LIKE THE WAY DODGE TOOK CARE OF IT
LIKE BASICALLY THEY WERE TOLD TO DRILL A HOLE
IN THE TURBO AND THEN PUT THIS SPRAY SOME
SPRAY IN THERE SPRAY THIS CLEANER IN THERE
SPRAY SOME HAIR SPRAY IN THERE NO AND SO THIS
OLD MAN SAID HEY CAN YOU DE COKE MY TURBO
I SAID YEAH WE'LL TAKE IT APART AND GLASS
BEAD IT AND GET ALL THE COKING OUT OH NO THERE'S
THIS CHEMICAL YOU CAN RUN THROUGH THERE YOU
DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO THAT SAID NO WE WON'T
DO IT CAUSE IT WON'T WORK SO ANYWAYS I TOLD
HIM LOOK YOUR TRUCKS BOOSTING AT ROUGHLY 52
PERCENT OK CAUSE IT CAN'T OPEN AND VARIABLE
GEOMETRY THE TURBO JUST CAN'T OPEN ALL THE
WAY SO THAT'S WHY YOUR DOWN ON POWER JUST
LET US TAKE IT APART AND REBUILD IT SO WE
TAKE IT APART AND REBUILD THE TURBO AND NOW
IT'S BOOSTING AT 97 PERCENT SO HE'S HAPPY
HE'S NOT HAPPY THAT WE HAD TO TAKE THE TURBO
OUT AND REBUILD IT CAUSE HE WANTED ME TO DO
IT THE WAY DODGE DID IT WHEN IT WAS STILL
UNDER WARRANTY SO NO IT'S NOT UNDER WARRANTY
AND YOU KNOW HE DOSEN'T WANT TO TAKE IT BACK
SO ANYWAYS HE BRINGS ME THIS CAN OF MOPAR
STUFF AND HE SAYS CAN YOU AT LEAST TRY IT
I'M LIKE I DON'T NEED TO TRY IT HE'S LIKE
CAN YOU JUST TRY IT YEAH WE HAVE A COUPLE
OF OLD TURBOS LAYING AROUND HERE THAT ARE
SHATTERED OR WHATEVER THAT ARE COKED OVER
NOT TO A CUMMINS BUT JUST TO SOMETHING ELSE
HE SAID CAN YOU TEST ON THERE OK SO WHAT WE
DID WE BROKE THE CAN OPEN RIGHT AND WE GOT
A SMALL CUP AND WE PUT A COMPONENT FROM THE
TURBO IN THERE AND WE POURED THIS STUFF IN
THERE AND JUST LET IT SOAK IN IT AND MAYBE
YOUR SUSPOSE TO GET IT HOT I DON'T KNOW MAYBE
THE TURBO GETTING IT HOT TURNS IN INTO SOME
MAGIC DUST AND TAKES IT ALL OFF IT DIDN'T
TOUCH IT REALLY NOTHING IT DIDN'T EVEN TOUCH
IT I MEAN IT DIDN'T EVEN TOUCH IT LIKE YOUR
THINKING WELL MAYBE IT WILL MAKE IT PLIABLE
OR GUMMY OR SOMETHING WE COULDN'T GET ANYTHING
OFF OF IT THEN YOU SEE THIS MAN STAYED ON
ME FOR LIKE A MONTH WANTING ME TO GET THIS
OK WE DID IT IT DIDN'T DO ANYTHING HOW LONG
DID YOU LET IT SIT FOR AH TWO OR THREE DAYS
YOU KNOW JUST SAT ON THE BENCH BUT MAYBE I
DON;T KNOW MAYBE THE CHEMICAL LIKE I SAID
WHEN IT GETS SUPER HEATED MAYBE YOU KNOW IT
IT ACTUALLY TURNS INTO FAIRY DUST WELL YOU
KNOW YOU KNOW HOW LIKE A PARTS CLEANER NOW
PARTS CLEANERS THERE HEATED LIKE A LOT OF
THE WATER BASED ONES IF THERE NOT HOT THE
HEATER STOPS WORKING THEY DON'T CLEAN ONCE
YOU GET THEM HOT THE HEATER WORKS NOW ALL
OF A SUDDEN THE HEATER IS ON IT WILL CLEAN
PARTS MAYBE IT WORKS LIKE THAT ON A HEATED
PARTS CLEANER YEAH MAYBE IT WORKS LIKE THAT
BUT WHEN YOU JUST TAKE IT OUT OF THE CAN AND
POUR IT ON SOMETHING YOU KNOW LIKE AT LEAST
WHEN YOU SPRAY PARTS CLEANER ON SOMETHING
IF YOU HAVE A PUDDLE OF OIL AND YOU SPRAY
IT YOU'LL SEE THE THE BRAKE CLEANER INSTANTLY
EATING IT YEAH WELL YOU DIDN'T SEE ANY EATING
TAKING PLACE BUT LIKE I SAID ONCE AGAIN I
COULD BE IGNORANT AND STUPID OR ONE OF THE
TWO YOU SHOULD OF JUST URINATED ON IT I COULD
URINATE ON YOUR TURBO DUDE AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS
LET IT SIT FOR A FEW DAYS SO A FORD CHASSIS
WITH A ALLISON TRANSMISSION AND A CUMMINS
ENGINE OH THAT WOULD BE A RIGHTEOUS TRUCK
RIGHT THERE YEP AND WE'RE HERE IN CALIFORNIA
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA WHAT 40 MILES EAST OF
LOS ANGELES AND WE HAVE PROBABLY THE LEADER
IN SMOG TECHNOLOGY AND I'VE HEARD THE DPF
SYSTEMS AND ALL THE SMOG RELATED EQUIPMENT
THAT GOES ON THESE TRUCKS IS RIDICULOUS I
TALKED TO A GUY THAT LIVES UP IN WHERE IS
HE MONTANA RIGHT THEY JUST DELETE ALL THAT
STUFF RIGHT I'M NOT PROMOTING YOU DELETE IT
CAUSE IF YOUR CAUGHT DOING IT IT'S A BIG HUGE
FINE ON THAT SUBJECT WE GET PHONE CALLS LIKE
THAT ALL THE TIME TO DO THOSE DELETES AND
WE WON'T DO THEM YOU KNOW CAUSE IT'S AGAINST
THE LAW I MEAN I'M SURE YOUR TRUCK WOULD RUN
BETTER I MEAN LOTS OF PEOPLE DO IT BUT HERE
WE CAN'T DO IT I MEAN IF IT GETS TRACKED BACK
TO YOUR SHOP OH YOUR BUSTED YOUR DONE YOUR
DONE LIGHTS OUT SO WE JUST WE'RE JUST BASICALLY
AN OEM SHOP YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN OEM PARTS
FOR OEM REPLACEMENT EXACTLY WELL I KNOW YOU
GOTTA GET OUT OF HERE DARRIN AND I APPERICATE
YOUR TIME I REALLY DO AND WE'RE GOING TO PUT
THIS ALL TOGETHER HERE GUYS DARRIN YOU CAN
CHECK OUT HIS WEBSITE OR JUST GOOGLE HIM DIRECT
TRUCK AND THANKS FOR WATCHING AND UM THANKS
FOR WATCHING GUYS
Cummins 6BT 12 Valve Diesel Conversion Swap into Chevrolet Suburban Part 1
Jonesy's:
so here she is the 6.5 liter
diesel suburban to start out with that
just so happens to have grenaded the
turbo and sucked all of the internals
into the engine blowing up the engine so
we have a we have a dead suburban
here that is in desperate need of some
tender loving care it's got some nice
BFG mud terrains on it that have seen no
miles
it has your standard Pacific Northwest
Moss has not been licensed or driven
since 2010 so it's 2017 right now and it
it's got some age on there one hundred
and ninety three thousand miles and it's
navy blue and blue everything blue cloth
interior and it's been sitting for a
very long time you can see it's got some
mold some fungi growing on the headliner
but crack in the windshield mirrors
falling off that seats hurtin but all in
all it has the fundamentals and the
foundation of an amazing vehicle so the
plan here is to clean it up
make it so that it is like new on the
inside and the outside and convert it
over to a twelve alva it's all here it's
never been smoked in it's a non-smoking
car if the previous owner had kept kept
the mold from growing in it probably
could have fetched a fairly decent price
for it but again it has been neglected
and the the guy that I bought it from he
specifically didn't really know what to
what to do about it considering that it
engine was blown up and it would cost so
much money to replace the engine
and for what you still just have a
slightly anemic less-than-desirable
diesel engine here's all of the
remaining engine parts the rear carpet
has had some latex paint spilled in it
so there's the turbo airbox everything
like that
so yeah you can see in the northwest
that's been sitting out under the trees
for a while but this is absolutely the
perfect vehicle for us to start with so
step one was to tow it out here step two
is to start the documentation and step
three is going to be to pressure wash to
get all this moss and this stuff out of
here and start getting it cleaned up a
little bit so that we can work on it
fender flare is got it broken but the
body is in excellent condition it's
never been wrecked chrome is in great
shape the tires are perfect the interior
besides the little mold that's growing
on some of the seats is is is in really
great shape and so I think with some
with some really heavy detailing and
some elbow grease we can get it so that
it's dialed in so he's the Suburbans are
great vehicles I got a lot brakes one of
them have airbags on both sides but this
is this is gonna be a fantastic
adventure vehicle so next step for us is
to start to clean it up so that it's not
such a roach so we're gonna go ahead and
pressure wash it now as far as the
engine we've already acquired the donor
vehicle this is a 1992 Dodge W 250 he's
got the good old ve pump Cummins 12
valve it's got about 200,000 miles on
the ticker also so we're gonna rip this
out go through it put head studs in it
do a similar similar build up on the
internals that we did on the Subaru No
maybe upgrade the turbo definitely
upgrade the governor spring and the fuel
pin but yeah we'll keep it keep it as
mild as we can because we're going for
we're going for a grocery getter for
this one this one's going to be a much
more tame more mild-mannered build than
the Sabrina was so enough talk about
that it's time to get some work done
fire up the pressure washer
you
Hypertech Max Energy Ford Chevy Chevrolet Dodge Diesel Installation Instructions Tutorial How-To
JEGS Performance:
Hypertech's Max Energy Power Programmer is
the latest in high performance technology.
It allows you to optimize your diesel engine's
tuning, as well as adjust other vehicle parameters
at the touch of a button.
Your vehicle has an on-board computer called
an ECU, which controls the engine and transmission.
Inside the computer is a flash memory chip,
which contains your vehicle's programming.
Hypertech's Max Energy actually reprograms
this flash computer according to your specifications
with Hypertech's award winning power tuner.
Now I'm going to show you just how easy it
is to reprogram your vehicle's computer. Before
starting and during the reprogramming process,
it is important that the voltage and electrical
system remain constant. To ensure this, you
should have a fully charged battery with clean
terminals. You will need to turn off radios,
GPS devices, radar detectors, etc. You should
also make sure the headlights and dome lights
remain during reprogramming by keeping the
doors closed and setting the parking brake
to disable any parking lights that may come
on when you turn the key on. Now all these
things can drain the battery voltage, or even
cause an electrical interference that could
disturb the reprogramming of the ECU.
If your vehicle's equipped with satellite
radio, or you have a Chevy or GMC with an
OnStar system, you must temporarily disable
the system before programming by removing
the fuses associated with these systems. Refer
to your owner's manual for the correct fuses.
The OnStar and satellite radio systems can
interrupt the programming process even if
you don't subscribe to it. When the OnStar
has been successfully disabled, the indicator
light on the dash or the rear view mirror
will be off. When the satellite radio has
been disabled, it won't power up with the
key on. Now simply plug the Max Energy's cable
into the vehicle's diagnostic port located
under the dash panel on the driver's side.
It's important not to disturb the cable during
the programming process. Now during the programming
process, you may hear your door chime, or
see different lights and messages appear on
your dash. Don't worry, its all part of the
programming process. Your dash will go back
to normal once programming is complete, and
programming usually takes about 10 minutes.
First, the Max Energy will display applications
and copyright information. Then it will identify
your vehicle and perform a self-test. Once
this is complete, it will check for any diagnostic
trouble codes, or DTC's. If no DTC's are found,
the Max Energy will prompt you for the next
selection. However, if DTC's are reported,
then the Max Energy will display how many
DTC's there are and their codes. Now, we recommend
proper diagnosis and repair of any reported
trouble codes before programming. Simply write
down any reported DTC's and look them up on
the internet or in a technical reference manual
for explanation. Once you clear any DTC's,
you are then ready for programming.
The Max Energy will now ask you if you would
like to install power tuning. Simply press
the "Y" button to install Hypertech's power
tuning or the "N" button if you would like
to keep the stock settings. If you have chosen
to install power tuning, then the Max Energy
will allow you to choose between three levels.
We call these power levels "stages". Stage
One is the lowest power level increase, Stage
Two is the second highest, and Stage Three
tuning makes the most power gains. There may
be times when you don't want or need that
much power, like when the roads are icy, or
you let your teenagers use your truck. That's
why we added Stage One and Stage Two.
Hypertech's Max Energy is the only programmer
on the market where every stage of tuning
is safe for hauling or towing the maximum
weight designated by your vehicle's manufacturer.
For those of you who tow heavy loads, you
need to know the maximum weight your vehicle
can handle as a combination of loaded vehicle
and the attached trailer. This is called Gross
Combined Weight Rating, or GCWR. For those
of you who are not towing but hauling in the
bed, you need to know the maximum weight your
vehicle can handle on its own. This is called
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, or GVWR.
The important thing to realize before you
hit the road with those heavy loads is that
just because your truck performs better with
Hypertech's tuning, it doesn't mean that you
can now tow or haul more weight than what
your vehicle is designed to. But it does mean
that you can tow or haul in Stage Three up
to the maximum weight to give you more power
for a better driving experience. If you're
overloaded, you should drive with this in
mind.
The secret to fuel economy is to keep the
truck in the higher gears as much as possible.
With Hypertech Power Tuning, you accelerate
more quickly up to cruising speeds, spending
less time at higher RPM's and in the lower
gears. And your truck will maintain cruising
speeds up hills to avoid downshifting to lower,
higher fuel consumption gears, and to avoid
unlocking the torque converter and using more
fuel due to slippage. Factors affecting fuel
economy are total vehicle weight, traffic
conditions, terrain, and driving habits, so
we offer three different power levels to allow
you to try each one for a period of time,
and discover which works best for your circumstances.
Only Hypertech develops Stage Three maximum
power level tuning to allow safe towing, so
feel free to try every power level. Now, you
may be surprised to discover that the most
fun level for performance, Stage Three, also
delivers the best fuel economy for the most
demanding conditions of hills and stop and
go traffic.
Once you choose which stage of tuning you
would like, press the "Y" button. The next
feature the Max Energy gives you is the ability
to correct the speedometer and odometer if
you have installed tires with an overall height
that is different than the original factory
tires. If you have not installed larger tires,
then simply press the "N" button. But if you
have, then press the "Y" button and use the
up or down arrows to select your new tire
size. Once you have chosen the correct tire
size, then press the "Y" button. If you don't
know what your tire size is, you can ask your
tire dealer, or you can measure a tire like
this. Place a mark on the tire where contacts
with the pavement and also mark the pavement.
These marks should be at the center of the
tire footprint pointing straight down to the
pavement. Now roll the vehicle in a straight
line until the chalk mark makes one revolution
and is pointing straight down at the pavement
again. Mark the pavement again at this new
spot. Next, measure in inches the distance
between the two marks on the pavement, then
divide the measurement by pi, which is 3.1416,
and this will give you the tire height in
inches.
Now lets talk about the tire speed rating.
A tire's speed rating for maximum safe speed
under perfect conditions is marked on its
sidewall. Most factory diesel tires are low
rated and do not specify a maximum safe speed
on the sidewall. Because diesel trucks have
become popular to modify with aftermarket
wheels and tires, for newer diesel trucks,
the Max Energy allows you to adjust the top
speed limiter meaning if you have installed
tires with a different speed rating than the
factory tires, then you can adjust your vehicle's
top speed to match the new speed rating of
your new tires. If you still have the factory
style tires, you should answer "NO" to this
question because those speed ratings are for
your safety.
On some vehicles, the next option may appear
that asks if you have installed an aftermarket
shift kit. If you haven't, then press the
"N" button. This will automatically install
the appropriate transmission tuning that matches
the power level you chose earlier. Combining
these changes with an aftermarket shift kit
could be damaging to your transmission. So
if you do have an aftermarket shift kit installed,
you should press the "Y" button.
Finally, once you have selected the options
you want, then the Max Energy will display
those options for confirmation. If everything
is okay, then press the "Y" button to continue
or the "N" button to make changes. Once you
have confirmed your choices by pressing the
"Y" button, then follow the on-screen prompts
until the Max Energy begins programming your
engine. Once programming is started, do not
leave the vehicle, disturb the cable, turn
the key to the off position, or start the
engine, because any one of these actions will
disturb the programming process. The programmer
is designed to recover from these actions,
but they should be avoided. When programming
is complete, you will see successfully programmed
displayed across the screen. Then all you
do is unplug the cable and store your Max
Energy. And of course, enjoy the added performance.
Now if you ever want to return your vehicle
back to stock, it is very simple to do. We
recommend returning your vehicle to stock
any time you return to the dealer for service.
This will ensure that your stock tuning will
always have the latest dealer updates, and
your Hypertech tuning will not be overridden
by the dealer. To do so, just plug the Max
Energy back in, follow the on-screen prompts,
and your vehicle will be programmed with the
original stock settings. You can always reprogram
Hypertech's power tuning any time you like.
How Much Does a Cummins Diesel Conversion Cost
Jonesy's:
Hello Joel from Jonesy's Auto Club
YouTube channel and today I'm going to
answer the most asked question I get
these days which is all about diesel
conversions and what they cost so here
you go you can see a one of our more
recent more custom builds this was a 97
K2500 suburban that we went all-out on
custom bumpers custom lifts custom
interior custom paint LED light bars all
of the above so anyway we've got some
videos that outline the build
details on this one and so check those
out if you get a chance but that's not
what we're gonna be talking about today
today we're going to be talking about
kind of a more typical less involved a
diesel conversion and what it costs to
do that
so I'm a spreadsheet guy so I produced a
spreadsheet for you guys that is based
off of actual numbers here it is so I'm
not I'm not like showing you any secrets
this is all readily available
information but it may enlighten you as
to why it costs what it costs to do one
of these so anyway this is a typical
restoration that we do typical
conversion that we do come and swap on a
96 k20 500 suburban we have done lots of
these in the independent front
suspension trucks and Suburbans this one
just so happens to be for a specific 96
suburban that we do a lot of you may
have seen it it's the blue one we
documented it very well on this one that
we purchased I don't do I don't divulge
all out of this information for
customary vehicles this is the one that
I currently own I'm building it I'm
going to be selling it so if you're
interested in purchasing it
let's get right down to the numbers
because that's all ultimately you guys
want to know about so we started with a
96 k 2500 suburban I bought it on
Craigslist with a blown up six point
five liter for four hundred dollars I
also bought a donor vehicle a 92 dodge
truck two wheel drive I paid twenty four
hundred dollars for it i recoup three
hundred dollars for the transmission
$150 for the dana 70 differential I got
a hundred bucks to scrap the body that
was completely roached out and I also
sold the brake booster power steering
assembly for a hundred dollars so the
nice thing about spreadsheet is that you
can keep track of your actual cost so
1750 right here is what I actually have
invested in the Cummins 6 BD 12 valve
and you can see the math right up here
purchase price and then the deductions
so if you already have a diesel and you
already have a suburban then you can
immediately right off the bat take those
numbers out of your spreadsheet okay so
moving right along here Cummins adapter
plate I really like running the 12 valve
with the 4 L 80 so that's going to
require an adapter plate we sell them
for 950 dollars that's about 50 bucks
less than what you will find online got
a lot of different websites so anyway
950 we also sell all of the bolts that
were you are required to have in order
to bolt that up depending on your donor
vehicle you can kind of scavenge some of
these bolts but we sell bolt kits they
cost about 50 bucks you're also going to
need a starter it's 165 transmission
controller there's lots of options for
the transmission controller we like to
use us shift basically I can sell you a
transmission controller with a 4 LED
wiring harness for 650 bucks it's
completely programmable it does
everything you needed to do it works
great now moving right along
you're going to need to decide what
you're going to do for an accessory
bracket and that's where these next
costs come in
I like to use the Delco alternators if
you're gonna go with a eight groove
pulley then you're gonna need to spend
money on that that cost $20 actual Delco
22 SI if you buy it specifically for a
diesel then it's gonna cost you about
hundred bucks but the nice thing about
this is that it has a tach lead so makes
tack hook up a little bit easier how if
you've got air conditioning on your
vehicle you're gonna need air
conditioning brackets I prefer the
straight water outlet we manufacture
those in all different sizes we also
manufacture aisle alternator brace for
use with the kind of mid mount high
mount air conditioning bracket set up
cost 20 bucks so we're just gonna keep
keep thumbing through these line items
hopefully I'm not going too fast for
most of you guys but we'll kind of hit
the high points here motor mounts we
manufacture the motor mounts so we sell
those that cost $250 with standard
rubber Isolators they use the Gen 1
Dodge Isolators and cost 250 upper
radiator hose lower ater hose that's all
kind of standard stuff that you can
purchase locally from your local auto
parts store you're gonna need to buy
some air conditioning parts regardless
so I have three hundred dollars invested
in those tachometer is kind of an issue
as to how you pick up the tach signal
and whether or not it's going to be
compatible and easy fix that I found
works really well is to use the Dakota
digital that cost about 61 bucks you can
buy it anywhere oil filter and oil $27
now if you take it to your Jiffy Lube
you're gonna probably spend more than
that but that's what it cost me air
filter I like to use a big honkin wicks
filter cost about 40 bucks it's an open
element 4 inch intake everything works
great big rubber intake boot fuel filter
I hate the Dodge fuel filter that has
the water sensor on the bottom so I spec
out a wicks filter without the sensor
you can purchase it locally my cost
$7.25 that's actually probably a little
bit low you'll pay a little retail above
that so here we are right here
any decent conversion you're gonna want
to do this is a very very common upgrade
for all the 12 valve conversions and
that's this one is actually release this
spreadsheet is really specific to the 12
valve 24 valve you run into this wiring
issues the common rail stuff you run
into even more wiring issues and so we
like to a stick keep it simple and stick
to the old-school 12 valve because I in
my opinion they do everything you need
them to do so high rpm valve springs and
the governor allows you to spin more if
you're gonna run an exhaust brake you
have to do this it's just yeah you
should just do this it would be a shame
to do a diesel conversion into one of
these vehicles and not have it stop so
we always do some brakes this is the
rear brakes we inspect the rear
differential make sure everything works
good there I added 150 bucks
other comment on brakes I'm gonna skip
down here to line item 31 front brakes
again the vehicle needs to stop as well
as it goes so we always try to install
drilled and slotted rotors heavy-duty
pads all kinds of good stuff with that
we source them from my company rotor
depot if you want some good quality
drilled and slotted rotors contact me
directly rotor depot the the website is
a little quirky right now we're working
on it and hopefully we'll have that
resolved but your rotors are gonna cost
you about 350 bucks so anyway back to
the issues a lot of the heater controls
and those Suburbans and trucks they
require vacuum to operate but with you
turbo diesel you don't get vacuum so we
have a we have a solution for that it's
not very expensive it costs about $75
and then you need the pigtail for it as
well for another 12 so moving right
along
drivelines this is one of the overlooked
expenses that can get pretty cost
prohibitive to do that you need to
shorten and rebuild your front and rear
driveline shorten the rear extend the
front sometimes because the Suburbans
and those trucks have a reduced tube it
costs a little bit more you have to
start over and buy new driveline for the
front and that can add get to be fairly
expensive batteries that's kind of a
no-brainer you're gonna want to have new
batteries when you're talked about the
brake rotors transfer case oil seal
that's simple you just want to put new
seals in a way you have it out
inexpensive it costs 15 bucks local part
supplier transmission filtering oil
again you will probably spend a little
bit more than that if you have to pay
retail might costs about $28 for the 10
quarts of tranny fluid and the filter
kit on our example here we had to we had
to replace the case maybe you saw that
in one of our videos we had a crack case
and that cost us $700 for the new case
and to take our internals which will all
turn out to be awesome and move them
over to the new cake
you're gonna always run into battery
cables wiring connectors things that
you're going to have to buy they're
gonna be sourced locally not supplied by
a vendor like myself they'll cost you
around 50 bucks you're always gonna run
into you need miscellaneous nuts and
bolts to bolt accessory brackets on
cross members in so on and so forth I
allocated another 50 dollars for that
and now we're back down to our specific
costs associated with the build so our
example here is our is our blue suburban
we had to remove the fender flare
replace it and then paint it luckily I
can do that in-house it only cost me
$175 for the custom match paint as well
as the used fender flare that we
serviced and put back into so anyway
detail products this would be I'm not
going to sell a vehicle that doesn't
appear really nice that's got nice shiny
paint for the most part so we're gonna
have waxes some buffing compounds things
like that our suburban has a cracked
windshield so we have another $775 to
have that replaced with a new one and
then upgrade these things because most
likely with your new diesel you're going
to be wanting to tow and nothing is
better than the extendable towing
mirrors so allocated $100 for those now
onto the interior and this is where some
of the costs may vary depending on your
application we needed to replace our
carpet because it had a bunch of latex
paint spilled on it I love auto custom
carpets they sell a nice kit that has
heavy mass packing complete $435 and my
costs and then to round out the interior
I always like to add in some gauges for
the boost tranny temp
and exhaust temperature so those are the
pod gauges they cost about $400 it's
expensive but it's worth every penny
because then you can actually monitor
what's going on
remember you do this these conversion
you lose all of the onboard diagnostics
your obd2 port doesn't work anymore so
if you decide to do all this that is
just parts all those costs just parts we
come down I had title fee's I had to pay
sales tax on the $400 plus I had to
transfer the title into my name for the
suburban so parts that we have invested
thus far nine thousand four hundred
eighty six dollars 82 cents always
factored in for estimating purposes 10%
fudge factor I have this list right here
as other 10% so add in another grand
which comes to a grand total no labor no
labor we're talking just parts the
suburban the Dodge Diesel and for the
most part wholesale price on most of the
parts listed to do what we need to do to
get a functioning vehicle ten thousand
five hundred dollars now you might
wanted to stop there if you're
considering to do this your own your
that's most likely what you're gonna
spend now obviously there are exceptions
to every rule and there is somebody that
has done it for a lot less than that but
typically that's what you're gonna have
to spend now if we add in some labor
charges to sublet or to have a shop like
myself do it we're gonna start to add in
some costs here and here's where things
kind of start to escalate pretty quickly
in order to remove your old engine and
to swap in the diesel you're gonna spend
approximately 80 hours to make it right
and that is not doing anything custom so
we're gonna go ahead and add these line
items in so 80 hours times 75 and get
the formatting correct on that you're
gonna have about six grand in labor just
to swap in the engine now if you're
going to rebuild the Cummins itself that
takes
about 20 hours so we'll do 20 times 75
it's another 1,500 bucks to actually go
through and rebuild and reseal this is
basically the same as resealing so if
we're gonna put gaskets gonna put head
studs all that stuff now interior we are
kind of going a little bit above and
beyond on the interior just because ours
was really gross it had a lot of mold
the carpet needed to replace all the
seats needed to be taken out so we
completely stripped the interior to
sterilize that make it a hundred percent
and that took some time it's
approximately 20 hours so if you're if
your vehicle needs that then you can
count on at least two to three days of
messing around with that start to finish
and that's removing everything cleaning
it all up and putting it back in so
we're gonna put in 20 hours for that and
we are up to 20 grand
so at the end of the day anybody that
calls or emails most of the time what I
tell them is I tell them that a daeso
conversion if you bring me the vehicle
because let's let's be honest I bought
this vehicle for 400 bucks so we're not
we're not dealing with a huge swing
there if you bring me a vehicle or if I
source a suburban for you you're gonna
be looking between fifteen and twenty
thousand dollars and that doesn't
include all of the wonderful upgrades
that we did on this vehicle that doesn't
include custom interior custom leather
interior custom paint custom bumpers
custom lighting all the like I mean
you've got just it for example this
vehicle right here has $3,000 worth of
wheels and tires so you can see pretty
quickly how the custom additions can add
to this number pretty quickly
Turbo DIESEL Chevy S10!?
1320video:
Jesus!
That's pretty simple.
We got a 5.9 common rail that's out of a 3 1/4 ton.
Really?
750hp below this. 3820lb with me in it.
3820?
Half of that's the motor?
Yeah, like 1200 or 1500lb of it.
There's like nothing in here. There's no accessories, there's no -
Oh no, it's totally gutted.
Yeah, haha!
It's full back half, like I said we started out at 520hp and it ran 10.80's @ 127mph.
What kind of transmission you running?
It's a FirePunk transmission.
What, you guys built it?
Yep.
You got a big tire on there?
I guess you could call it a big tire.
For an S-10.
Yeah.
So 750hp. You got a torque number on it?
I did 1450nm.
Well thanks for bringing it out.
Yeah.
Can't wait to see it run again.
That launch is violent!
Still trying to get the brake oil set right on the shock.
Oh yeah?
It bounced!
I don't think he had it in third, it looked like it hung at the top of second.
I did a shade more boost. We can mess with the tire pressure a little bit.
Comparing 3.0L Diesels to Find the Best in 2020
4WD Magazine:
Perry Mack here without a lot of fanfare
let's get to it
and take a look at which diesel engine ranks #1 in half-ton trucks for 2020.
General Motors introduced the all-new 3.0
litre Duramax for the 2020 Chevy Silverado
and GMC 1500 in June 2019
this rounds out the diesel offerings for half-ton trucks from the big 3:
Ram, Ford and GM.
Now if you're a brand loyalist
then it won't matter to you which is the
best diesel engine
however if you're open to some brand exploration
let's take a look at which diesel ranks #1 for half-ton trucks in 2020.
There have always been pros and cons to owning a diesel engine
and whether or not you
should own one
still depends a little bit on your driving, towing and payload needs.
However many of the cons from previous years
are slowly diminishing
to the point where your choice of gas or diesel is a matter of wallet size and not necessarily needs.
The new diesels are quiet,
have great fuel economy,
require a little additional maintenance,
but open the doors of opportunity for
fuel efficient towing for work and play.
You may not take advantage of them this
year
but what will you want to tow or haul in three to five years
or what if you decide to transform your truck into the ultimate overland vehicle?
The Ram EcoDiesel was first introduced in 2011 in the Grand Cherokee
and then in 2014 to the RAM 1500.
This second generation VM Motori an Italian subsidiary of FCA built engine
is a V6 which generates 240 horsepower at 3600 RPM
and 420 pound-feet of torque at 2,000 RPM.
With an epa rated fuel economy of 20, 28, 23
miles per gallon; city, highway and combined.
By the numbers for 2020
it has one of the lowest performing engines
but not by much
and since it has a roughly 7
year production run
there is a proven history behind the engine.
Call it the devil you know.
As Ram has had time to iron out the wrinkles
and settle some
emission violation lawsuits.
The aftermarket has also had time to design and test engine upgrades
so you can save some cash buying a used Ram EcoDiesel
and then enhance the engine to suit your needs.
The third generation of the EcoDiesel
will appear in the 2020 Ram 1500
producing 260 horsepower
at 3,600 rpm
and 480 pound-feet of torque at 1600 RPM.
With a fuel efficiency virtually guaranteed to top the 30 mile per gallon mark
on the highway
be careful buying the diesel Ram 1500
2020 though.
As the second gen engine will still be offered
in the 2020 Ram 1500 classic.
Alongside with the third gen in other trims
including for the first time
the off-road equipped mouth-watering Ram Rebel.
The unseen, undocumented side of the equation for the second gen
is really interesting.
The rock-solid design architecture lends itself to aftermarket upgrades.
That could reportedly boost the engine to over 500 horsepower
which means there
will be some great opportunities
to get an affordable and powerful diesel truck.
The Ford 3.0 litre power stroke
ended Rams solo reign in 2018
when Ford introduced their new 3.0 litre diesel into the F150
Like the EcoDiesel
it is a 3.0 litre, 60° V6.
But in another case of one-upmanship
over the 2nd gen EcoDiesel
Ford has this engine producing 250 horsepower at 3250 rpm
and 440 pound feet of torque at 1750 rpm.
Now the extra 10 horsepower that kicks in a little sooner than the second gen EcoDiesel
isn't the big story here though.
It's the fact that the extra 20 pound
feet of torque kick in at 1750 rpm.
That's 250 rpm sooner
and they stick around until 2250 rpm.
250 rpm higher.
Behind the wheel it means more pulling
power earlier
and the relatively flat torque curve means it sticks around longer.
Bottom line if you're looking at buying at 2019 3.0 litre, by the numbers,
the power stroke wins.
Ford also managed to squeeze out 22, 30, 25 miles per
gallon; city, highway, combined.
A 2 mile per gallon bump compared to the EcoDiesel.
Although the fuel economy success has to be shared with Fords 10R80 10-speed transmission.
We have two great videos just on the
3.0 litre powerstroke
and i'll include those links below
and then boom GM's 3.0 litre Duramax has landed in the 2020 Chevy Silverado
and once again
the landscape has changed.
Stepping away from the classic V design,
Chevy engineers designed an inline 6 turbo diesel
that generates a max 277 horsepower at 3,750 RPM
and 460 pound-feet of torque at just 1500 RPM.
More torque and it's delivered sooner than the Power Stroke
and the Duramax
delivers it right through to 3,000 rpm.
Chevy has pushed some design boundaries
compared to Ram and Ford.
They've reduced the weight of the engine
by moving to a cast aluminum block
compared to a graphite iron block
and taken the high
pressure rail to 36,250 psi.
Compared to 29,000 in the other two.
Which has led some detractors of the design
to question its longevity
which is typical when a new designing technology is introduced.
Time will tell if they are
right.
The engine is mated to a 10 speed transmission,
the 10L80, designed in conjunction with Ford
and although at the time of writing the official EPA
fuel economy numbers have not been released
we expect the highway number to
come in north of 30 miles per gallon
but not as high as the 40 miles per gallon
estimated by a number of optimists.
We test-drove the new configuration in June
of 2019 and were really impressed.
It is a peppy, quiet, half-ton diesel that
has great acceleration and handling for a half-ton truck.
It's a shame we weren't able to test the towing or off-road capability at the same time
which is
something Ford impressively let us do.
Which diesel engine in a half-ton is
the best for 2020?
We're gonna give it to the engine with a track record, the devil we know
and the big potential with a little bit of tweaking.
So for us it's the 2nd gen Ram EcoDiesel only available in the 1500 classic in 2020.
After that it's a close race for us
between Ford, Chevy and RAM.
We've driven the 3.0 litre off-road and towing
so I would be confident buying one
and they've had two years in production under their belt by 2020.
The brand-new 3.0 litre Duramax in the Chevy
is really great to drive and
I've had great track record with GM trucks.
Hauling and towing to the max
and the same goes for RAM.
So I have faith in their engineers.
Now, no brand is flawless
Do you agree with my choice for the best half-ton diesel engine in 2020?
If not, please tell us why and what would you buy in 2020 in the comments below.
If you enjoyed this video, share it, smash that like button
and if you'd like to see more please subscribe
and ring that bell so you're the first to know when a new
video comes out.
Until next time, stay safe and we'll see you on the trails.
Here's What I Think About Buying a Used Diesel Truck
Scotty Kilmer:
rev up your engines,
Chris Mill says, Scotty why do these
clowns with Diesel's with over 120,000
miles want so much for their trucks, the
rest of the truck is a regular truck,
well because everybody wants a diesel
that can pull a lot of weight and still
get decent gas mileage, you know if
you're pulling stuff with a gasoline
engine, you're gonna get horrible gas
mileage, but a diesel doesn't it care if
it's pulling itself or pulling a bunch
of weight, it's still gonna get about the
same gas mileage and that's the reason they
sell them for so much money, it's just
the way the market is and there's nothing
you can do about that, if you want one you're
gonna have to pay more money because
that's just how the market is these days,
Ali says Scotty I got a 1966 Rambler
Classic, any tips on bleeding the
brakes, yeah it's an old car it's simple, all
you want to do is, get another person and have them
pump the brakes, then bleed the right
rear tire, do it four or five times, then
bleed the left rear tire, do it four or
five times, then bleed the right front
tire, do it four or five times, then bleed
the other tire in the front, four or five
times, that should do it, now if you can't
get the air out that way, then you got
a bad master cylinder or something
that's sucking air in, those all cars are
real easy to bleed brake, because it doesn't
have anti-lock brakes, all the modern
cars with the anti-lock brakes you have
to have a fancy computer like I have in
order to actuate the solenoids and bleed
the air out, but on that old thing it's
so simple, just do one wheel at a time
like I said and you won't have any problems,
Kay says, Scotty I
have 1997 Celica 1.8 160 horsepower manual
around 300,000 kilometers, I think it
burns some oil are the 7af engines
proned to burning oil, can it be the PCV
valve, okay change the PCV valve and
after that there's nothing you can do
the engine is going to be worn, you got a lot of
mileage 300,000 kilometers, if I were you
I'd switch to Castrol and use like their
2050 oil and see what happens, it won't
hurt an old engine like that, and a lot
of times it'll burn less oil because
it's better engine oil, try that they're
good engines, their very good engines, but
you got a lot of mileage so it's gonna
probably burn a little bit of oil but
you put in the heavier weight castrol oil
and change the PCV valve and see
maybe it'll burn a lot less that way, I
often do that when I work on people's
cars like that,
Gavin Vicar says,
my girlfriend's 2000 Yaris has a
hissing sound from the brakes as they come
to stop, I change the brake booster,
master cylinder, vacuum lines, but it
still hisses, okay did you change the
check valve on the booster, if you've got
a bad check valve on the booster, it will
hiss and you know that should fix it, now
you said you change the booster, but did
you use a brand new one, or a rebuilt one
because if you use a rebuilt one, the
rebuilt ones are often absolute junk
and they'll still hiss so it could just
be that you used a rebuilt one and you
shouldn't have used a rebuilt one, you
should have used a brand new one, I see
that all the time and of course check
lines going to the booster to make sure
that there's no loose, you know they just
fit on, you might want to put a little
radiator screw clamp where they go on
instead of that cheap clamp that they
come with, DylanSand say, my dad has
49 Studebaker that blows the 50 amp fuses and
dies right in the tracks when you turn
the wipers you know what's wrong with it
well it's got something wrong in the
wiper system you know, if it only does it
when you turn the wipers on either the
fuse that turns the wipers on or the
wiring go to the wiper or the wiper
motor is shorted and dead, so you got to
start testing all that stuff, the easiest
thing is first, unplug the connector to
the wipers, then if you turn it on and it
doesn't blow it, you know it's the wiper
motor, if it still blows up then you know
it's the fuse or the wiring going to the
wiper, you check it sections at a time,
anytime you have electrical problems you
want to check it one section to the
other, that's just how that stuff works, simple
always simplify stuff especially electrical
work when you're working on it, Ed Colt
54 says, thoughts on cars going to these
push start and buttons I hate them, I
hate it too because I have to fix them and
it's such a pain, I have the computers that can
fix them but it's still a pain in the
butt when it says well I gotta go to the
dealer and buy the special computer
module and reprogram them and then
somebody you know get a new key for your
car used to cost you a buck and a half
from the hardware store, I had a customer
that lost their key that was one of
those keyless systems on a Toyota Prius
and it cost his like 1200 bucks at the
Toyota dealer, so I hate him too,
so if you never want to miss another one
of my new car repair videos, remember
to ring that Bell!
Part 1 - How to Rebuild a Cummins 12 Valve 5.9L Diesel Engine
Jonesy's:
Hey guys Joel from Jonesy's Auto Club and
today we're going to show you how to
tear down your Cummins diesel engine 6bt 12 valve
for part three of our k 2500 suburban
Cummins diesel engine swap. As you can
see we've already started it so I'm
going to get you caught up right now.
Please subscribe to the channel and ask
your questions in the comments
Hi there Joel from Jonesy's and today
we're going to be digging into our
Cummins 6 bt 12 valve 5.9 liter turbo
diesel to get it freshened up for our
navy blue Suburban. Where do you start
well we started by ripping it out of the
donor vehicle which was a 92 Dodge 250
pickup truck two-wheel drive the
remainder of that dodge truck has been
scrapped so we've got all of
the grid heat still hooked up we've got
some hoses hooked up so what we're gonna
do is we have cleaned off a bunch of
bench space all around me and we're just
going to take piece by piece item by
item and disassemble it so first things
first we're gonna get this fan out of
our way get the serpentine belt off and
then we're going to take some of the big
pieces off we're going to take the
exhaust manifold off alternator kind of
work on one side and then go to the
other side so we're going to get this
stuff cleared and then we'll do the pump
last. I'm going to get some tools and
we'll get going
Here it is the moment of truth
got the cylinder head pulled off so now
I always go to the rear cylinder first
because it is the last one to get oil
and so if there's any kind of heat
problems or oil problems you'll see it
on this cylinder and it doesn't look
like we have any issues so I mean that
the cylinder walls are pretty pretty
darn shiny which it's pretty typical and
hopefully you guys can still see we can
still see some of the the crosshatch
pattern in the cylinder wall so that's
great so what we're gonna do next is
inspect every single one of them that
moisture you see on the top of the
piston is from the solvent the
penetrating solvent I put in with the
injectors to help get those loosened up
and removed so we're gonna kind of
investigate these cylinders a little bit
more get get that carbon ring removed
off of there and take a look and see
what everything looks like looks like
you can see a little bit of surface rust
on this cylinder wall here some looks
like some pitting from it's sitting for
quite some time but you can still see
the crosshatch pattern on the cylinder
wall so I think these are gonna gonna
clean up and not necessarily need to be
bored but again we'll uh dig down a
little bit deeper take the Pistons out
and then see how well that cylinder wall
cleans up so we're going to next step is
going to be to pull that gasket off and
we'll start to dissect the front take a
look at the
Killer dowel pin and make sure that's not
coming out get the timing indexed gone
on the pump as well on the cam so we'll
document all that and go from there so
we can see right down here on the crank
we've got zero between those two marks
and then up here to focus we've got it
right at the Emaar
now to double-check that right there is
a little plunger that will come out
right up in there and stick into the cam
gear to verify that you are in fact on
top dead center so what we're gonna do
is I'm gonna try and get this a lot of
times they'll be stuck see there got it
kind of freed up we can safely remove
the pump so in order to remove the pump
now we need to lock it in position and
in order to lock the v/e pump in
position we're gonna take that little
tab right there take that bolt off slide
that tab over take that tab out and then
that will actually lock the shaft on the
pump so we won't lose our pump timing
when we take it off so we're ready to
pull the Pistons and I wanted to just
talk about kind of where we are at so I
ended up clearing a bunch of bench space
I put a bunch of the miscellaneous parts
I knew I wasn't going to be using down
under the bench I've got all of my
drivetrain parts specifically organized
by cylinder number so that's all the
rocker assembly push rods for so
number one and I'm gonna consequently
put the broad caps for each cylinder on
that cardboard box as well so if you
come back over here to the engine which
you'll notice on this particular model
area is you can see four four four two
five and that also corresponds to the
rod itself so the cap and the rod are
all numbered correctly so can also
notice the orientation they're all
facing over here to my left which would
actually be pointed to the driver's side
but this is upside down so all of the
Pistons are facing over towards one
direction so you know that when it goes
back together you have to orient them in
the correct way go ahead and take this
cap off we'll talk a little bit about so
you can see there's there's no number
stamped on that side so numbers go to
numbers put this cap right there for
number one and we'll talk about the
crank service and how to inspect the
crank so first of all you want to
obviously look and see if there's any
known obvious Nicks there aren't any
right now and then I always take my
fingernail and run my fingernail across
the surface and if I feel any kind of if
it hangs up on anything if that's not
totally smooth and you really should
consider having the crankshaft at least
bare minimum polished so we're not
overly concerned about the crank right
now we're gonna do a good inspection
make sure that it doesn't need to be
turned flip this over you can see those
bearings do have some signs of of some
discoloration and somewhere so we're
definitely going to be putting some new
bearings new rings we'll try and get
everything cleaned up so I'm going to go
ahead and blast the main bearing caps
off
I'll take all the Pistons out and we'll
get this crank removed
okay guys got all the main bearing caps
removed you don't have to worry about
marking those because they are marked
right there you can see that number one
so they already are stamped well it's
time to pull the crank this is best if
you have if you have two people but I
don't have that luxury so one trick is
to take a strap around one end a strap
around the other end
just like so that way you can hold it
and just use a soft strap and then make
sure that you have a place where you're
gonna take this so that you're not
banging it around it's very critical at
this point to try to be as careful with
this crank as you can because you don't
want to Nick it and then have to lift it
up and out now is a really good time to
inspect all these bearing surfaces
wipe them off and they look so far the
ones that didn't stick to the crank look
excellent
now the rod bearings they actually are
showing some signs of wear which is not
uncommon you can see kind of right in
there and that is clear where the wear
is lines directly up with the with the
rod so we've got everything laid out in
order got the crank set over here so
we'll get that run through the part
washer and make sure that all of the
surfaces look really good which as first
impression they all look really nice
camshaft over here also shows almost no
signs of wear at all you can kind of see
maybe Tang a little bit on that low but
it's more of a discoloration than
anything else so all of our internal
parts are looking really really good and
that's what I what I had expected
because this engine actually ran really
really well now some things you guys
don't want to look for as you see that
little see that little piece right there
that's the oil squirter you want to make
sure that all of those
are intact and are in the correct spot
otherwise your pistons won't oil
correctly so we'll continue cleaning up
all of our individual pieces our parts
into the out of the dishwasher and get
moving on to cleaning up this engine
block and getting that house cylinder
walls cleaned up
so that's next okay guys we're gonna go
ahead and break up the glaze on these
cylinders here I use just a generic whom
I call a dingleberry home but it's just
a little ball home and just used some
generic automatic transmission fluid for
kind of a cutting oil so put that all
over there I'm sure you got quite a bit
on there and then you want to always
keep it moving and not go too deep
I've decided to reign on us as you can
see so let's check it out and see how
well how well our cylinder is cleaned up
as you can see they cleaned up very
nicely it's a good quality crosshatch
right around there knock the carbon
buildup up at the top I can feel no
there's just a very very slight I
wouldn't even call it a ridge and kind
of see where that line I can feel that
line right there where the actual piston
ring stops but in terms of a crosshatch
pattern and a nice surface for the new
rings to seat and we're into I'm very
happy so I'm going to go through and
verify that all of them look this good
and what you're looking for is you're
looking for the the crosshatch pattern
but if the cylinder wall itself is
scored or has any vertical lines then
you probably should just have it board
but as you can see all the way around
ours look pretty darn good so just with
that little a little bit of hone all
you're trying to do is break up the
glaze on those cylinders so that you
have some nice new fresh material for
the new rings to wear into and to seat
on so we'll go ahead and get the rest of
this block cleaned up scraped and into
the parts washer
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