Eliminacion de Coodigo 89 Chevrolet Sonic. No more code 89 in chevy sonic
Vive Tu Sonic:
friends welcome again to the
sonic chevrolet channel today we want
show them
how to solve a problem that is very
frequent in these vehicles the
thermostat and that does not appear in our
boards the code 89
in some occasions it appears to us so
soon we turn on the vehicle and we give
boot at other times the code
usually appears
while he is sending the break to
this case
once we start the vehicle and
we wait a few seconds
89 appears
see there is
What is it
the screen with the indicator of a
problem and here
the error code as I told you is
how to make the thermostat replacement
The motor fan should only start at
work when the engine reaches a
temperature
we have the congo 89
when when he
he is not fan as he told them
it will only start working when the
motor reaches an indicated temperature
then there is activated and works until
lowers the engine temperature and returns to
start your work your operation
normal
and as we see the embers just
we have
good friends once removed the
thermostat
this is the spare part always
recommendable
buy the original general motors
or Korean manufacturing import
German core does not matter but let it be the
original of general motors
generics as I said they commented
some previous videos come out very
defective
they keep the code 89 on the computer
of the car as we distinguish the original
not only because of the packing in packing in which he comes but that we have the letters of gm and in the
Part number and code of 0 32
in high relief
well in high relief does not come recorded not
comes to carve well is in high relief
the company that makes the thermos
I treat smuggle chevrolet and
then we will proceed to install it
As it is a totally new product,
We need to change the packaging
We limited to adding silicone and so on
The installation procedure is the
opposed to the withdrawal then what
we make
we place the piece in its place we put the screws that hold it to
base
very important that we leave them
only gave me positions
and then we go
securing
always diagonally
when we go to press
to give it the torque we do it one day
with the
if we start with the one on the top next
right we pass to the bottom the side
left after may be the one below
right side or the one on the top side left mystic that we place from above left side
and when we have them in place, it's
we proceed to give them torque
tighten them
this is a bull head
of 10 millimeters is the tool that
We need a long glass of something
that allows us to work intensively first
let's allow the one from the top to the side
left now let's go to the opposite
down
the right side
we calculate that the pressure is the same
that we left up on the left side
and then we move on to the other two
ah
and there with this one if we can get
continue giving the final touch
and we went to the other day a screw that
it's diagonal after the other two
and already with that wall and with that last
torque should already be our
thermostat well insured without presenting
some kind of refrigerant leak
sensor
and connect the sensor its position
we make sure it stays connected
we are removing for
work and connect the hose
that takes the coolant to the radiator
but do not stay well connected
we will proceed to adjust it with the
and with these simple steps, friends
we finished making ourselves the
replacement of the thermostat
with this, the
code 89
of our computers and should the
car go back to work
usually
doing
let's put it to work a few seconds
with the radiator tank open
we complete the coolant level
the one who lives will consume that was the
That
if the time to do the
replacement
and there we should have the car
but in the sense
good boys
As you can see, boys no longer
code 89 appears
and if we are going to look at the engine very
surely it is not on
fan motor let's review
good
hope ceni niebles was the
My subtlety will serve us well let's share with the same friends that
they have people but we do not turn off the vehicle
share it with the other friends that they have pains are and if they liked denle a like if they had not subscribed to the channel
please subscribe here and we will
keep making videos about the chevrolet sonic we listen to your suggestion
we are attentive
thank you very much for watching the video and until the next
P0223 ✅ SÍNTOMAS Y SOLUCIÓN CORRECTA ✅ - Código de falla OBD2
CodigosDTC:
¡¡CODIGOSDTC.COM!!
Know, what are the causes that cause problems in your car?
¡¡Examine the symptoms your car presents under the guidance of experts in mechanics!!
¡¡And get the final solution of the fault codes that diagnose your automotive scanner!!
¡¡All here in CODIGOSDTC.COM, Your OBDII code library!!
P0223 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH B CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT
System: Combustion
The DTC P0223 OBDII code is set when the Power Train Control Module (PCM) detects a signal voltage from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), which does not match the current engine speed.
TPS sensor changes its resistance, according to the accelerator pedal movements.
The sensor also relies on signals from the PCM to operate the regulating valve and at the same time supplies the PCM with precise information about the width of the regulating valve.
In order to complete the circuit, there is another sensor connected to the accelerator.
This generates a current when a moving part is moved through a magnetic field.
This signal is used by the PCM that triggers a mechanism on the TPS sensor to change the position of the accelerator plate.
The changes in the opening of the accelerator are used by the PCM to adjust the ignition timing,
the variable valve timing, and the pulse duration of the injector in order to ensure the maximum performance of the engine at any given load.
Symptoms of the DTC code P0223 Generic
• Engine light illumination (Check Engine).
• The engine may not start.
• Poor acceleration.
•Power loss.
• Inestability in idle.
• Black smoke expelled by the exhaust.
Causes of DTC code P0223 Generic
The reasons why the diagnostic code P0223 OBD2 is set are:
• There may be short circuits between the Throttle Position Sensor and the Powertrain Control Module.
• Electrical connectors may be corroded.
• Defective TPS sensor
Possible solutions of the DTC code P0223 Generic
To correct the problems caused by the P0223 OBDII error code
you must do the following:
• Make a consultation of the Technical Service Bulletins.
• Inspect all cables and respective connectors related to the system.
It also checks the accelerator plate, maybe it has excess carbon.
Clean the carbon from the throttle body following the manufacturer's recommendations.
Repair or replace defective cables.
• Uses a digital volt-ohm meter (DVOM) and observes the voltages of the TPS sensor.
In general, it should be between 0.5 volts with the throttle closed and 4.5 volts with the throttle open.
If there are irregularities, if the sensor is defective, change it.
¡If you have any doubt or suggestion, leave us your comment!
For more information Go to CODIGOSDTC.COM!!
How to Fix Sinking Brake Pedal in Your Car (Brake Master Cylinder)
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
if your brakes are sinking to the floor
when you step on the pedal then today's
your lucky day because I'm going to show
you how to fix that. now brake
pedals sink to the floor because the
brake system is losing pressure the
first thing you want to do is check for
leaks check all the wheels to see if
there's any fluid leaking there now this
Nissan is pretty easy to check at the
wheels because it's got these slotted
hubs
there's nothing leaking on this side or
inside here on this side or inside the
front left wheel or the front right
wheels they're all dry inside where the
brake caliper is and when I look under
the car I don't see any brake fluid
leaking anywhere down and any of the
hoses or lines now that generally means
that the brake master cylinder here is
leaking inside when they are old they often leak
like a leaking heart where the leak
inside themselves they won't have any
external leaks but the inside leaks and
makes the pedal go down now since we
couldn't find anything leaking anywhere
odds are the master cylinders gone bad
inside we're going to replace it but if
you have a newer car than this it has
anti-lock brakes you're going to have to
check the anti-lock brake system too
especially if the ABS light is on
because the ABS system can also leak
inside themselves in the modulator and
cause the same problem but this car
doesn't have ABS so it's got to be the
master now slip an old pan under the car
so it'll catch any brake fluid that
leaks then unbolt all the lines and
to get the lines off I find these crow
foot wrenches work really good this is a
10 millimeter you just stick it over the
line where the bolt is and pulled then
you get the rest off with your fingers
it's easy then, take all other lines off in
this case we're going to use a pry bar
because we got to use the canister over
because it doesn't come with one then we
take the two bolts off that hold the
master cylinder on and off it comes now
then we get the new master cylinder and
bolt that on put the two bolts on tight
that holds it in place get them nice and
tight then snap the reservoir
back on nice and tight and then fill it
up with clean brake fluid
and then comes a trick I learned years
ago I'm going to bleed it just at the
master cylinder so we don't have to mess
with the wheels and you do it like this
you just start the line and put them on
finger tight if you're like me and work
by yourself get a long screwdriver to
bleed the brakes out with push down on
the brake pedal with a giant screwdriver
then wedge the other end against the
seat and pull the seat up and it pushes
the brake pedal in tight, so that holds the
brake pedal strong against the floor and
then you tighten up all the lines just
get your wrench and tighten all the
lines up, then once the lines are
tight you release the seat that makes
the pedal go back up in the air so we
open all the lines again a little bit
then we repeat the bleeding again
sticking the screwdriver against the brake
pedal and pushing the seat forward and
we repeat this process five or six times
until the pedal gets hard and now we've
got a nice strong brake pedal that
stops like mad, so if your brake pedals
start to sink to the floor now you know
how to fix it yourself and remember if
you've got any car questions just
visit the Scotty Kilmer Channel and
I'll answer them if I ever make it out
of this Mayan jungle alive
Как обнулить монитор замены масла на Chevrolet?
Alex Chornyi:
Hi there!
Many people ask how to reset the oil life monitor on Chevrolet
It is very easy to do
Turn the ignition switch ON
On the menu selection buttons select the oil life reminder
Press three times on the gas pedal
100%, Done.
Reset completed
Chevrolet orlando occasion visible à Toulouse présentée par Generale automobile toulousaine
Auto Selection:
How to Replace an Alternator
ChrisFix:
Hey guys
ChrisFix here
and today im going to show you how to replace a alternator
this is a really simple job that you can
do yourself in most cases there's no
special tools and to figure out how easy
the job is going to be all you have to
do is locate your alternator in my truck
you can see the alternator is right at
the top which makes it really easy to
get to
if your alternator's near the top of the
engine the job is going to be simple if
the alternator is buried it could be
more difficult if you're not sure if
your alternator is bad i have a video
that shows you how to test an alternator
so check that out it's really simple and
you could do it yourself a link to that
video will be in the description
here's where my alternators having a
problem when the engine goes about four
thousand rpms the battery light comes on
and the voltmeter that's built into my
truck
it just drops there should be 14.2 volts
will not even getting that I'm getting
like 10 volts nine volts once the RPM to
about four thousand rpms so not only is
the alternator shot but i'm running a
large light bar up top
some lights in the rear as well as off
road lights in the front so I want a
larger alternator to keep up with my
electrical demand stock alternators 95
amps and the new alternator is a hundred
and thirty amps and if you're curious to
where I got this alternator I'll go put
a link in description below as always
that pretty good prices and they got to
me really quickly so let's go get
started and changing this out here all
the tools you need to do the job we have
a ratchet extension and different sized
sockets metal wire brush
flathead screwdriver and PCs and we have
a torque wrench breaker bar and the only
specialty tool that you don't really
need but i have is this serpentine belt
tool that helps get the serpentine belt
off
you could always just use your breaker
bar or a long wrench
so let's begin anytime you work on the
electrical system the first thing you
want to do especially when changing out
the alternator take off the negative
terminal on your battery
make sure it's not getting grounded out
now you're good to work on the
alternator
the next step is you need to access your
alternator
so try to make your life easier and make
as much room as possible we really don't
want to take off this coolant hose
because then you get cool and everywhere
but what we can do is take off this
intake hose which is really easy to do
to get the intake hose off there is
a hose clamp right over here use a
flathead screwdriver
now we're just going to disconnect this
hose that's over here and just wiggle
this off
good we come over here to our mass air
flow sensor disconnect the little mass
air flow sensor electrical clip we could
just take this off just like that always
always remove your filters you don't damage it
and look at that we have easy access
right here
now let's go take the belt off to remove
the belt they do make a special tool
i'll put a link in description to where
you can get it you don't need to use
this it's just like a long ratchet if
you have a breaker bar that's kind of
narrow and skinny
you can use that or if you have a long
wrench in this case this is 15
millimeter and what you're going to do
is going to go down into the pulleys and
look for the tensioner pulley so you can
see right down in here we go over here
the tensioner pulley is the
spring-loaded pulley right there and
that's how you relieve the belt tension
to just go down in here
get the tool on the end of the bolt of
the tensioner and just take it and you
pull the ratchet the tool whatever you
have towards you and that pushes the
pulley against the tensioner spring so
you relieve the pressure and you can see
now the belt is nice and loose and since
we're only taking off the alternator and
make your life a lot easier to just take
off the belt on the alternator and i'll
leave the belt popped in here so it
doesn't come apart and unwrapped from
around these pollies just in case if it
does you can see right here
it's got the diagram of how the belts
rat around the police now let's go take
the alternator off taking the alternator
off is really easy you can check your
brand-new alternator to see how many
bolted has you can see one two and then
one at the bottom is 3 so we're going to
be looking for three bolts to take off
looking at this alternator
there's one there's two there's three
so we're good to go before we do that I
want to check the back of the alternator
see what connections you have here you
can see that there's three connections
that this little one here got a larger
clip right here and we have the positive
cable coming
here I usually like to get these off
before I remove the alternator
especially since there's plenty of room
to get to him back here so let's go do
that
so the first cable we're going to take
off is the red battery cable
this is the power from the alternator to
the battery runs all the way up over to
the battery
- 10 millimeter and you suck it over
that good
although our negative terminal is
technically disconnected just cover this
up so it doesn't groundout
better to be safe than sorry you can
even get some black electrical tape if
you want but that's good enough
ok now we're going to remove this
connector and this connector flathead
screwdriver might help
that's one
that's too now if you remove this wiring
harness and move it up to the side
removing the actual alternator is really
easy we'll start off with this front
bolt here
there's three bolts total going to use a
breaker bar with these bolts are kind of
tough on here
the original alternator cars 2001 so
it's pretty old
good broke that free will do the bolt
that's up here broke that free and then
there's one more bolt right back here
okay all three bolts are broken free now
we can loosen them up all the way it's
one that's two and three
now i can pull out the old one now what
the alternator out we have this
alternator bracket here and you just
want to get a piece of sandpaper or in
this case I have a metal wire brush and
just want to clean up the connection
where the alternator actually sits on
here because the alternator is grounded
to the block through this bracket so the
better the connection to the alternator
the better your electrical system will
perform
you also want to grab the bolts and
clean off the bolts you can see here
there's all this white corrosion on the
threads here
you want to have a good connection so
it's good to clean this off and that
cleaned up very nicely
so we're going to get even better
connection now so with all the bolts
cleaned up and with the connections here
all cleaned up
let's go put the new alternator on as
always when i'm installing two new parts
i like to put them side by side make
sure that they look right you can see
this alternator is definitely bigger but
the bracket mounting spots are the same
and the alternator pulley itself is the
same size so it looks like we are good
to go
and just for anybody who's doing this
project on a Ford pickup truck or ford
SUV or the mazda pickup truck mazda SUV
the four hole pattern here indicates the
95 amp alternator and the two hole
pattern here indicates a hundred 30 amp
alternator just something good to know
especially if you're looking for parts
in the junkyard
you're trying to find this alternator in
the junkyard or something you know
that's the 130 and then this is the 95
now we're going to get our new
alternator put in place
one thing you might consider on these
bolts as anti-seize just put a little
bit on and using just a little bit of
anti-seize like that on the threads are
just make it that much easier to get off
if you ever need to replace this in the
future
now we'll get our top bolt in you just
want to get it started
now we're going to get the next to in
reason why you just want to get started
because you want to be able to move this
alternator around to make sure you get
the next bolt in its position and then
this last one should slide right in
just like so now with all three bolts
hand tightened and thread it in
we could start tightening them down you
don't want to tighten them down all the
way
just get them snug and then we'll talk
from them
so now that all these are snug
we're going to get our torque wrench and
set it between 30 and 40 foot pounds i'm
doing thirty eight foot pounds 1 2
three now all we have to do is connect
these wires connect our intake here and
we're ready to go for a test drive plug
that in love that in make sure you have
a good connection in here to use your
metal wire brush just to make sure it's
clean or some sandpaper whatever you got
take the nut off slip the power cable
over the stud and hand-tighten good but
make sure you slide this protective boot
over that just feels at any water and
also prevents any unintentional
grounding or arking
good so we got our top connected
connected that middle one connected and
our power line connected make sure that
we have our plastic piece here over the
alternator
it's just the heat shield that protects
the alternator from the excess heat now
we're just going to get the belt on the
alternator and you see it doesn't fit
until we pull this
good the belt is on here correctly on
the rest of the pulleys correctly now we
can take off our belt tool just inspect
to make sure that the belt is on all the
pulleys correctly it's in the middle
it's not on the edge plus the belt was a
little loose
looks good see if it's right on perfect
everything looks good on the tensioner
now let's put on the air intake and
let's go for a rod drop our filter back
in place
this clicks in just like so you want to
make sure that this hose goes all the
way around your intake just like so
there's no gap here now we can get our
flat head screwdriver to tighten this
down
good remember to connect our PCV hose
here
good make sure you plug in the mass air
flow sensor one last thing to do connect
our negative terminal and let's go for a
ride
all right let's start it up and see what
we get
so we've been driving around for a few
minutes and I'm gonna slow down here and give it gas
to drop a gear and hit over four
thousand rpms
beautiful everything is working
perfectly
and that is a job well done and that's
how you properly replace an alternator
hopefully this video was helpful if it
was remember to give it a thumbs up if
you're not a subscriber
what are you waiting for hit that
subscribe button up on the screen are
going to be a bunch of videos to get to
those videos you can click on the screen
or follow the links in the description
How To Diagnose A Hard Starting Hot Engine
HolleyPerformance:
the most common engine related causes
for hard starting
when the engine is hot are vacuum leaks
or
improper connections faulty ignition
wires
fouled spark plugs a sticky EGR valve
clogged or dirty fuel filters a weak
battery or starter
engine overheating or improper ignition
timing
each of these areas should be thoroughly
checked and fixed if found not to be in
proper working order
if hard starting still occurs we
should now examine the carburetor itself
many of the same things that will cause
hard starting when cold
will also cause hard starting when hot
one of the main causes is
fuel percolation or boiling in the fuel
bowls if your air cleaner has a heat
riser valve make sure that its opening
adding an insulator flange gasket will
help limit heat transfer between the
engine and the carburetor
engine overheating can create a vapor
lock vapor lock is the interruption of
fuel delivery to the carburetor
caused by vaporization of fuel in the
fuel line or fuel pump
from extreme heat minor cases of vapor
lock
can be cured by insulating or routing
fuel lines away from exhaust manifolds
or
other hot engine parts replacing the weak
or defective fuel pump can sometimes
solve the problem
for chronic vapor lock symptoms
installing an electric fuel pump in
place at the mechanical unit is often
the only way to cure the problem
in addition check for a binding or
sticking choke
the choke should be fully closed when the
engine is cold
and not running and fully open after
it's warmed up
verify the choke is connected to a full
12 volts switched
ignition source engine or carburetor
flooding
as well as a lack of fuel can cause hard
starting verify the float levels are set
correctly
that fuel pressure is correct and that
the needle and seats are not sticking
check any fuel filters to make sure
they're not clogged or dirty
and lastly check the accelerator pump
system
a full stream of fuel should emit from
the pump nozzle
for more information on how to tune the
accelerator pump system
see the advanced tuning section at this
video and refer to the accelerator pump
and pump cam tuning clip
How to Find the Fuel Filter in Your Car
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
today I'm going to help you answer the
question, where have they hidden the fuel
filter on my car, now over time the fuel
filter in your car gets dirty and needs
to be replaced, if you don't you can lose
acceleration and the fuel pump can
eventually burn up from too much back
pressure, now years ago when cars all had
carburetors on them, there'd be a simple
fuel filter near them that was clear you
could see through it, you just take the
hoses off and put a new one on, every 15
20 thousand miles, now with the use of
fuel injection and more modern cars, they
couldn't use cheap plastic filters, because
they couldn't take the pressure, so they
went to metal ones, like in this 20-year
old Toyota Celica
right here, it's just plumbed on by a
line on the top and a line on the bottom,
and they were still relatively easy to
change, cost twenty to thirty dollars, no
big deal, you could change them every
thirty thousand miles or so, but on many
newer cars, like this 13-year old Toyota
van, the engineers have gone bananas, not
only have they put the fuel pump inside
the gas tank, but they put the fuel
filter inside there too, so you have to
drop the gas tank and take it all apart
in order to change the fuel filter and
needless to say, it's an awful lot of
work to pull a gas tank off, just to
change a fuel filter and in some
vehicles you have to buy the fuel pump,
the sending unit, and the filter, that's one
very expensive unit that can cost four
to six hundred dollars, now the filter
itself is still just a piece of paper
inside that filters it out, it's not any
fancier than these old ones used to be
and it isn't like they're different
kinds of filters, that don't need to be
changed, they're going to get dirty and
eventually they'll clog up and you have
to replace them, so why they hide the
filters inside the gas tank is beyond me,
why would anyone design a vehicle that
you have to take the fuel tank off in
order to change the fuel filter, yes all
you engineers out there, I'm calling out,
why did you do that and don't give me
any baloney about it being more
efficient too
filter it back there, because it sure
isn't efficient having to pull the gas
tank off to change a fuel filter that
should be changed every 30 or 40,000
miles, now some cars like the Celica have
a back seat that comes out and when you
pull it up there's an access panel, so
you can get to the fuel filter that way,
but even there you got to take the back
seat out and access panel, then take the
top of the gas tank cover off, then reach
inside to get the fuel filter off, why
didn't they just leave them outside
where there used to be, but if you have a
later model car like this Toyota and you
got to pull the gas tank to change the
fuel filter, you have two choices, you can
make sure you buy your gas at good
station that has clean gas with no
impurities in it, or you can pull the
gas tank off and change the fuel filter
assembly, so if you wonder where your
fuel filter has gone too, now you know, and
remember if you've got any car questions
just visit the Scotty Kilmer channel
and I'll answer them as soon as I get
back having some fun!
How to Tell if You Need a New Catalytic Converter in Your Car
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
today I'm going to help you answer the
question, does my car really need a new
catalytic converter, now catalytic
converters do go bad on cars, but they're
relatively expensive and you just don't
it's really bad and that's where this
OTC exhausts back pressure gauge comes
in very handy, because when Cadillac
converters go bad, they clog up the
exhaust system and build up way too much
pressure and you can easily test the
pressure with this cool little gauge, you
simply unbolt the oxygen sensor that's
in front of the catalytic converter, then
take it out a hole and in this case it's
an older car, so you just push the gauge
in with this rubber adapter to measure
the pressure and on newer cars where
the oxygen sensor has a thread that
screws the whole way in, you just use this
little adapter that then screws in and
the tester screws into this, then push it
in the hole and start the car
and in this case, it was going between
six and five psi, it should be about a
pound and a half, anything over three,
shows it's really clogged up inside the
cat needs to be changed, because in a
normal running car, the back pressure
should only be one and a half pounds to,
and what's happening is this, catalytic
convert with the flashlight behind
here, have a little honeycomb in them, and
they will clog up with burnt oil and
stuff and then the pressure builds up
and often the temperature gauge will run
a little bit hotter, because the exhaust
gases are staying in the engine too
long, making it run hotter, or the car
will only go up to a certain speed and
no further, maybe it will only go 40
miles an hour, it won't go past 40 miles
an hour, but of course there's many
things that can make a car overheat or
not go past a certain speed, that's why
you want to check the back pressure, to
see if it's catalytic converter first
but of course realize things are never as
simple as they seem, if you do have back
pressure before the catalytic converter
gets too high you also need to check
it behind the catalytic converter,
because if you find it still as high
pressure behind the catalytic converter, then
it's the muffler that's clogged up, but
in this case, it only had one pound
pressure after the cat, so it's the cat
that was clogged up, if it would have had
just as much pressure 10 pounds after
the cat, then the muffler would have been
clogged up, and yes realize that this
could happen, because if a catalytic
converter gets so bad, sometimes pieces
of it will break off, then it'll go back
and jam up and plug up the muffler too
sometimes you have to change both a cat
and the muffler if everything got clogged
but using this gauge, you're not
guessing anymore, you're going to be able
to pinpoint where the problem is without
just guessing with expensive parts, so
the next time you think you might have a
bad catalytic converter or someone tells
you they think it's bad, don't guess, test, and remember,
if you have any car questions just visit
the Scotty Kilmer channel
and I'll answer him as soon as I get
done talking with this dolphin
How to Fix a Car that Won't Start and Randomly Dies While Driving
Scotty Kilmer:
one, two, three, four!
Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
today I'm going to show you what to do if your car dies
on the road, now if you're driving down
the road, and all of a sudden your car
stops running, here's some things
you can do to get back rolling again, now
the first thing to check is your gas
tank, as nutty as it sounds, if you're out
of gas, the car is going to die and
here's the reason you want to check that
first, and almost all modern cars, the
fuel pump is inside the gas tank,
gasoline actually lubricates the fuel pump
passing through it. so the bearings don't
burn out in the fuel pump. so if you ran
out of gas and you keep cranking the
engine to try to start it. and you're out
of gas, the fuel pump will suck air, it'll
burn the bearings out and some of these fuel
pump assembly can cost you over a
thousand bucks to replace them, so if you
are out of gas, don't keep trying to
start the car, get some more gas and fill
it up and go on your way,
but if you do have plenty of gas, here's
the next thing to check, you could have
blown the fuel pump fuse, so check that
next, and it's always a good idea to have
a few spare fuses in your glovebox,
you don't need a giant box like I have, but
you can get them that four or five fuses
in them, then go to the fuse box and
check the fuel pump fuse, and any other
fuse like EFI for the fuel injection,
tells you on the back what fuse goes
where, and here's how you can tell if it
fuse is good, if it's continuous like this,
the fuse hasn't blown yet, but a blown
fuse looks like this, as you can see now
the loop is burnt off, and it doesn't
connect anymore, so the fuse is blown, so
of course you have to have spare fuses
to begin with, so make sure you got
some in the glove box or the trunk, but
here's another trick, say you got a 10
amp fuse that's blown, well you could try
a 15 or a 20 amp fuse, just to see if I
could make you home again, it really
isn't going to hurt anything and you might
be able to make it home if there's a
minor short, that'll blow a 10 amp fuse
but not a 15 or 20, now let's say you
don't find any blown fuses, as well
you got the hood, open check the fan
belts to see if any of them came off, for
example, if your alternator belt had come
off, the alternator will stop charging
the battery, you'll run out of electricity and
the car will stop running, and in that
case, be preparing again be like me,
have a spare fan belt for the alternator in
your trunk, so if it ever goes bad you
got one to put on, and if you really want
to be prepared, you can have one of these
little jump starter packs in your trunk,
it can jump it, after you put the fan
belt on, or if you don't have a fan belt,
or you can't mess with that kind of
stuff, these little packs have a
reasonable amount of power in them,
they'll sometimes start a car and you
can drive a few miles, if you turn the
headlights and everything off, and you
might be able to make it to a gas
station or someplace running on this
little battery along, now let's say your
car stopped running because the
temperature gauge got in the H, now of
course you'd have to wait till the
engine cooled down before you could do
anything, but once it cools down, if
you're prepared like me and have a spare
jug of coolant in the trunk, once it's
cooled down add the coolant to the
radiator, then you can start it up, turn the
heater on full blast, and then drive
while you watch the temperature gauge to
make sure it doesn't go back up to the H,
and here's how that works, the heater
core is a smaller radiator, so if you run
the heater that helps dissipate any
extra heat, and as long as your
temperature gauge doesn't get into the H,
you can drive it back to a safe place,
then find out what's wrong and fix it,
and the last thing to check if your car
dies on the road is, check your oil, you
wouldn't believe how many cars I've had
towed over to me over the last 50 years
that had run out of oil, because no one
ever checked the oil, so if you've been
bad and don't check your oil enough, have
two or three quarts in the trunk, so if
you do get stuck somewhere and you're
out, you can pour some in, a lot of times
the engine will be damaged if you really
ran it completely out of oil, but
there's always a little bit left in the
sump, and sometimes just putting in two
or three quarts, it'll start up and sound
fine and still run, so now you know what
to do if your car dies on the road, with
a little preparation upfront you can
often save yourself, and remember
if you have any questions visit Scotty
Kilmer channel.
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